Looking for recommendations for suspension parts for Dodge B3500 Roadtrek 190V

[MythicLionMan]

Tonight I managed to press the old joint and bushing out of my control arm (like I said, I'm slow). It was pretty easy with a 12 ton press once I figured out which direction to push :blush:. The disappointing discovery was that the K7117 bushings I ordered are too small - I gather that they fit the control arm for the smaller axle.

I also wrapped a wire around the ball joint. It's a bit hard to see because I used a black wire, but it definitely is a spiral if not a thread.

 

[The Eyesore]

I ordered K7118 (arriving tomorrow, along with the ball-joint tool). I hope those are the right ones.

 

[MythicLionMan]

I ordered K7118 (arriving tomorrow, along with the ball-joint tool). I hope those are the right ones.

The K7118 are for the upper control arm. The K7117 are for the lower. It didn't specify the size of the axle though. Hopefully the K7118 are the right size for the upper. The website I ordered from didn't specify the weight rating of the axle which is why I got the wrong part.

I can read the factory part number on my original bushing: 52007092 42203

 

[The Eyesore]

Oh, sheit! I bought the K7117’s too!
I’m glad to find out before taking everything apart.
The search for the correct bushings begins…

 

[MythicLionMan]

This webpage is for a Dorman part that claims to be a part interchange for the factory part number. It also claims to be an interchange for the Moog K7117 which I have and doesn't fit.

It isn't obvious from the photo but the K7117 is much smaller than the one I pressed out. I can just slide it into the control arm without effort.

 

[MythicLionMan]

Maybe the K7117 does fit, but I got something different in the box? I'll check the second one tomorrow to see if its different.

 

[MythicLionMan]

I checked, and one of my bushings was the wrong part. They both have the same box, but one is 2.023" in diameter and the other is 1.6" in diameter.

 

[The Eyesore]

I was hoping that’d be the case. Phew! Thanks for checking and not leaving me in suspense overnight.

 

[booster]

Looking at the Rock Auto site where they give actual dimensions of the parts, there appears to be a huge conflict as to what size they should be for the vans.

Some say 2" diameter and some, including Delphi, say 1.6" diameter.

My bet is the what you both got is a one arm only kit, not for both sides like some kits are. Because of the confusion as to which size is needed Moog decided to include both of them. I have run across this before on various parts where there were multiple things used on vehicles during production and not well documented. The parts suppliers usually tell you they are including both, however, either in the prepurchase listings or in an instruction sheet in the box.

You will probably need to get another kit if you want to do both sides of the van.

On edit, here is the Moog application chart for the K7117 and it does says say two required, and that should mean two of that part number AFAIK. That would mean you need a buy another, it appears.

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k7117

 

[MythicLionMan]

On edit, here is the Moog application chart for the K7117 and it does says say two required, and that should mean two of that part number AFAIK. That would mean you need a buy another, it appears.

https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k7117

I did buy two though. And I received two. They were just different sizes. I'm going to compare the labels on the boxes, but I suspect that somebody returned the part in the past and mixed up the contents of the boxes.

 

[booster]

I did buy two though. And I received two. They were just different sizes. I'm going to compare the labels on the boxes, but I suspect that somebody returned the part in the past and mixed up the contents of the boxes.

That is interesting, I had thought you had two in one box as some come. They may not have a manufacturer name on them, but they might not both be Moog as one thing that does happen is people get a wrong one somewhere and then by a correct one and use that box to return the wrong one which they have had too long to return or lost the receipt.

It will be interesting to see if Mr Eyesore got two the same.

It makes it all pretty weird as Rock Autos listings by brand all call out the same applications but are two different sizes. So no matter which ones you ordered, unless you measured yours first, could be the wrong size.

 

[The Eyesore]

I bought two K7117’s, as I was aware they were one bushing per box, and both are the same size.

I helped inventory an auto parts house once, and you’d be surprised how many parts fall out of their boxes (especially if a shelf gets knocked down or something) and get put back into the wrong boxes. It’s a very common occurrence.

 

[The Eyesore]

So, I ordered two sets of K7118 and the sets arrived, each set different. See pics. I’ve ordered a third set to see what arrives. PS, this is why I like to do my own work. I know another mechanic would just throw them in and call it a day. I hope the next set that arrives is the beefier style.

 

[booster]

So, I ordered two sets of K7118 and the sets arrived, each set different. See pics. I’ve ordered a third set to see what arrives. PS, this is why I like to do my own work. I know another mechanic would just throw them in and call it a day. I hope the next set that arrives is the beefier style.

Different country of origin?

 

[The Eyesore]

Both are labeled from Mexico. I suspect the one on the right is the newer version, designed with cost in mind and also designed to not last too long.

 

[MythicLionMan]

So, I ordered two sets of K7118 and the sets arrived, each set different. See pics. I’ve ordered a third set to see what arrives.

Soon you'll have enough parts to build a second van. I can't fault your strategy though, this is making me realize what a crapshoot buying parts is.

 

[MythicLionMan]

I finished cleaning up the lower control arm so I can paint it. It's actually in really good shape, I think that I'm just stalling a bit.

I applied some more heat to the upper control arm, and thanks to Boosters advice I did it with a few less pyrotechnics than when I tried on the vehicle. I was able to get more penetrating fluid into the joint because I had it upside down now so the oil would pool around the lip. Put it in the vice, got my longest cheater pipe and it still wouldn't move.

I was at the 'give up' stage so I put it in the press and the joint popped out with a bang. I'm pretty sure I've buggered the 'threads' in the control arm.

 

[The Eyesore]

Wait a minute… Are those left-hand threads??

So what’s the next step?

 

[MythicLionMan]

Wait a minute… Are those left-hand threads??

So what’s the next step?

I need new upper control arms. I'm just not sure if I should keep the K7082 and try to transfer them to the new arms, or just keep the crappy joints that will come with the new arms and return the K7082. I already had fairly new arms with crappy joints, so it's a bit discouraging to buy more. But there don't seem to be any good options.

 

[The Eyesore]

It seems to be a no-brainer. I would gladly eat the cost of the replacement ball joints just to be able to do them now, while everything is still new and rust free. Otherwise, how long do you think the cheap Chinese ball joints are gonna last you? And then you’ll be in the exact same boat again with aftermarket control, arms that have cheapo ball joints, rusted in them. But add the fact that it will be in the future when the parts for these vans are even more scarce than they are now.

Seriously, it’s an absolute no-brainer, don’t you think?