Direct Replacement for the Dometic RM2453R

[k1hog]

Please advise if there is a direct replacement for the Dometic RM2453R Refg?

I remember seeing, but can not find same a discussion on replacing the dometic freg with a marine 2 way freg.

Thanks

 

[themexicandoctor]

Did you mean RM2354?

What did Dometic say?

Do you have an interest in adding 250-300 watts of solar & all the equipment to add a DC Compressor fridge or are you happy with the 3 way performance?

If it hasn't been burped for many years, doing so for 24 hours, might breathe another 2 years out of the unit

 

[k1hog]

I verified # Rm2453r.

I never run frig on 120 when on shore power and when going down road 12V. Never on gas.

I thought a marine 2 way 120 or 12 volt DC

 

[GallenH]

Each mfg should have some sort of conversion chart available. If not you will have to go by the dimensions of your 2453 and see what will fit. Nothing will probably be a precise fit and you'll probably have to do some cabinet mods. Here's an old doc that gives the size of Dometic units and it lists yours somewhere in the LH column.

http://w2.distone.com/bradstrailer/downloads/RefrigeratorReplacement.pdf

TMDoc is correct that you need to have the power to run a non-LP fridge and replenish that power (charge batteries).

Good luck.

 

[themexicandoctor]

The fridge, is a Bad Dog.

A very bad dog.

But you may be able to get the extra life out of it by burping it as I prone to repeat.

This guy specializes in them;

https://www.thedometicguy.com/rm-2453/

But Dometic fridges are crap.

Especially their 3 way units.

Even the their latest & greatest DC Compressor Chest Fridges are some of the worst performing out there.

It won't fit, but if you want the best technology & am willing to forgo using the "cabinet space opening" & instead put it behind a seat or between both front seats, then the Engel MT45 Fridge Freezer units are a guaranteed success.

Everything else, is abysmal.

I know your model, by putting it up front, there is no need for any complicated & expensive slide out, etc.

I looked at a thousand ways to skin the cat & my answer kept on bringing me back to a Novakool R3800 & the fact I already had the solar upstairs.

The only way to jave the Dometic work, whether you buy a new unit or resurrect what you have is a computer fan blowing on the fins, etc. And an internal fan.

Many people have done it here, Gallen for instance.

I have an excellent relationship with the High Priest of Dometic Fridge Repair, Mark at Lodgemobile in Burbank, in Los Angeles.

We did everything but pull the fridge out & install the fans, but I was adjusting the gas pressure every 6 months or so.

And I researched all I could about DC Compressor Fridge technology including all the Chest* Types out there.

*all crap but for Engel, National Luna (too big for our rigs) & ARB.

Whynter, Iceco, Dometic, etc are all crap.

The only good thing about Dometic is the warranty which means once or twice a year when the unit fails, you won't have a refrigerator while you are waiting for your new replacement.

When you see all these smiling Instagram Van Life Nomad Freaks, you realise they are not running a Dometic 3 Way unit & in reality, their fridges are using two, three times the stated amp usage.

My family in New Zealand have a Engel fridge only unit that we have used without fail since 1971, fires up everytime.

 

[GallenH]

If I may add to MexDoc's comment: I still have a Dometic 3-way in our van and it works for us in our circumstances. Those are: we camp 3-5 days in higher AZ elevations where the ambient temps get to the mid 80s in the day.

With the wonders of Covid we've contemplated driving the RV from PHX to MN to visit our daughter. No way the 3-way would work on that long of a trip using the 12v during driving. It will only hold temp if you don't open the door. Some drive on LP; we don't.

If you take an IR gun and shoot the burner area on 120v, LP and 12v you'll see that 12v doesn't provide nearly the heat as the other two. It doesn't cool as well.

At some point I'll make the change that MexDoc did. Maybe soon with Covid.

 

[mkguitar]

similar experience to GallenH ( but I do a little better on 12 volt maybe)



I can count on getting 60º below ambient temps- but when it's 110º my cheese sweats.


I'll stay with this fridge as I can't economically change my electrical power scheme
tending the fridge has turned out to be a new hobby


mike

 

[rickst29]

The Overall Dimensions on the RM2453 are:
30-5/32 (h) 21-7/8 (w) and 22-22/32 (d)

The 'Enclosure' dimensions are:
29-3/4 (h) 20-1/2 (w) 21-1/2 (d)

The closest of the CRX models is the CRX-110, which gives only 'Product Dimensions' on the web page:
Dimensions product height 30.39 "
Dimensions product width 23.35 "
Dimensions product depth 21.97 "

From my experience with installing a previous model 'CR-1110' as a replacement for a very similar-sized Norcold N300.3 in my own TT (I also work on Class-B RVs from time to time), height and depth were fine - height actually needed a small "shim" of additional cabinet trim to fill in a bit of horizaontal gap left at the top, frrm the Norcold control panel removal. (I believe my old Norcold and your Dometic to be virtually interchangeable for size, but I didn't re-verify that belief.)

The problem, for my completed replacement and your tentative scenario, is the width: You need about 1/2" more. To get that extra space, I trimmed at my framing boards and trim boards with a few dozen strokes of a plane, but I have no idea whether the construction of your Class-B will allow the enclosure and front framing to be expanded in that way.

If not readily trimmed, some reconstruction might be required - or you could switch to a smaller compressor model (and build more fill-in, rather than cut away at the present housing). Compressor fridge/freezer models can store more than their 3-way counterparts, because there is a lot less room consumed "out back" by heaters, the propane burner valve and tubing, and the large condenser/storage "tub" which is present in 30way fridge units.

Over 10 years later, I consider my Fridge upgrade ot be the best modification I ever made. It's been super reliable, and works great in even the hottest weather. But I do have over 300 of Solar Panels, and I also have a method of charging batteries from my Trailer's TV engine. As a Class-B, you almost certainly have more or similar options for recharging batteries (onboard generator and/or the "Chassis" engine+alternator). Solar would be nice for neighbors.The compressor fridge models use less than 1/3 as much electricity as the 3-ways running on DC power .... but they are consuming electricity, rather than propane. In summertime heat, you do need 20-30Ah of available 12v power every day.

I have a class-B person coming on Saturday, so that I may assist with some electrical upgrades - and the owner has asked about replacing the RM2453 within her RV (mostly due to bad summertime performance). We'll be taking a look at the viability of doing that in her RV.

 

[k1hog]

I verified # Rm2453r.

I ALLWAYS run frig on 120 when on shore power and when going down road 12V. Never on gas.

I thought a marine 2 way 120 or 12 volt DC

 

[themexicandoctor]

The Overall Dimensions on the RM2453 are:
30-5/32 (h) 21-7/8 (w) and 22-22/32 (d)

The 'Enclosure' dimensions are:
29-3/4 (h) 20-1/2 (w) 21-1/2 (d)

The closest of the CRX models is the CRX-110, which gives only 'Product Dimensions' on the web page:
Dimensions product height 30.39 "
Dimensions product width 23.35 "
Dimensions product depth 21.97 "

From my experience with installing a previous model 'CR-1110' as a replacement for a very similar-sized Norcold N300.3 in my own TT (I also work on Class-B RVs from time to time), height and depth were fine - height actually needed a small "shim" of additional cabinet trim to fill in a bit of horizaontal gap left at the top, frrm the Norcold control panel removal. (I believe my old Norcold and your Dometic to be virtually interchangeable for size, but I didn't re-verify that belief.)

The problem, for my completed replacement and your tentative scenario, is the width: You need about 1/2" more. To get that extra space, I trimmed at my framing boards and trim boards with a few dozen strokes of a plane, but I have no idea whether the construction of your Class-B will allow the enclosure and front framing to be expanded in that way.

If not readily trimmed, some reconstruction might be required - or you could switch to a smaller compressor model (and build more fill-in, rather than cut away at the present housing). Compressor fridge/freezer models can store more than their 3-way counterparts, because there is a lot less room consumed "out back" by heaters, the propane burner valve and tubing, and the large condenser/storage "tub" which is present in 30way fridge units.

Over 10 years later, I consider my Fridge upgrade ot be the best modification I ever made. It's been super reliable, and works great in even the hottest weather. But I do have over 300 of Solar Panels, and I also have a method of charging batteries from my Trailer's TV engine. As a Class-B, you almost certainly have more or similar options for recharging batteries (onboard generator and/or the "Chassis" engine+alternator). Solar would be nice for neighbors.The compressor fridge models use less than 1/3 as much electricity as the 3-ways running on DC power .... but they are consuming electricity, rather than propane. In summertime heat, you do need 20-30Ah of available 12v power every day.

I have a class-B person coming on Saturday, so that I may assist with some electrical upgrades - and the owner has asked about replacing the RM2453 within her RV (mostly due to bad summertime performance). We'll be taking a look at the viability of doing that in her RV.

Great answer.

And congratulations on being able to keep the CRX110 running & at such a low power draw.

My concern is the width is 20.5 & the only to modify that in a 190, is to remove the supporting wall that dissects the kitchen cabinet & also has the water heater & other fundamentals pushed up against it.

If you has a RM2435 installed previously it does not mean the CRX110 will not fit.

 

[hbn7hj]

If you take an IR gun and shoot the burner area on 120v, LP and 12v you'll see that 12v doesn't provide nearly the heat as the other two. It doesn't cool as well.

I switched out the 12 volt heaters to higher wattage units on both my Dometic three way fridges.

The RM2663 had a 215 watt element that when measured was putting out 170 watts. I replaced it with a 270 watt element. The AC element is 315 watt. It held 40F box, 19F freezer yesterday from Phoenix to Colorado.

The RM2554 had a 150 watt element, I think. Replaced it with a 170 watt element. Early Dometics had a 115 watt element.

 

[themexicandoctor]

I verified # Rm2453r.

I ALLWAYS run frig on 120 when on shore power and when going down road 12V. Never on gas.

I thought a marine 2 way 120 or 12 volt DC

By repeating your earlier statement are you asking us to stay within those parameters?

A Marine 2 Way or a DC unit are the same thing, expect an average of 30-50amp hour draw in the winter & 40-60amp hour draw during the summer - if you budget your power allocation for this range, you will be fine.

By the way, I always used the Propane when driving.

Too much stress on the battery system.

My biggest ever discharge happened a year ago when a girlfriend cleaned my rig inside, in doing so she pressed the DC only button & when I returned 4 or 5 hours later the low voltage alarm was going off.

I didn't connect the fridge as an issue for an hour because I never, ever had used DC before. It was a 104 amp hours!

Was cranking up the generator, the food went bad inside & this was in the evening when I returned - they do not perform well on DC.

Or maybe it was just the Dometic RM Series.

I always associate the RM Designation as a Warning Instruction as in;

Run Mark Run Mark Run Mark.

To be entirely honest, I believe Dometic should have this Warning Label on all their small 3 way fridges in Class B's at least.


WARNING - THIS IS A STORAGE DEVICE

DO NOT USE THIS DEVICE AS A FRIDGE*


*unless its perfectly level on all four corners when parked
*that is has been regularly burped
*that the outside temperature does not exceed 75%
*that there is only a small % of space used
*that you do not open the door more than once every 72 hours

 

[themexicandoctor]

I switched out the 12 volt heaters to higher wattage units on both my Dometic three way fridges.

The RM2663 had a 215 watt element that when measured was putting out 170 watts. I replaced it with a 270 watt element. The AC element is 315 watt. It held 40F box, 19F freezer yesterday from Phoenix to Colorado.

The RM2554 had a 115 watt element, I think. Replaced it with a 170 watt element.

THIS IS A GREAT IDEA!

I used to run my on the highest setting #5 the last year.

 

[JWBrown]

I switched out the 12 volt heaters to higher wattage units on both my Dometic three way fridges....

Now THAT would be a project write-up I'd be very interested in seeing.

 

[Bud-ClassB]

I switched out the 12 volt heaters to higher wattage units on both my Dometic three way fridges.

The RM2663 had a 215 watt element that when measured was putting out 170 watts. I replaced it with a 270 watt element. The AC element is 315 watt. It held 40F box, 19F freezer yesterday from Phoenix to Colorado.

The RM2554 had a 150 watt element, I think. Replaced it with a 170 watt element. Early Dometics had a 115 watt element.

Curious why you pulled the fridge out to replace the DC element when the AC element was more?

The RM 2554 appeared to come with a 175 watt element, but maybe it is less like you discovered with the RM 2663.

But why not just run all the time on AC or propane? Why pull the fridge?

Interesting that Dometic "Never over or under size the AC heater." Yet, no mention with DC.

Thanks.

Bud

 

[hbn7hj]

Now THAT would be a project write-up I'd be very interested in seeing.

All the Dometic heaters I’ve seen look the same. The latest RM2354 is 170 watts. You could get the 215 watt unit from an RM2663. I don’t know what the safety rammifications are. Put an ARP unit on it and ler ‘er rip!

 

[hbn7hj]

But why not just run all the time on AC or propane? Why pull the fridge?

Some of us don’t like running down the road with an open flame and propane valve open. Gotta admit I left Phoenix yesterday on propane till I got to altitude.

My B doesn’t have a way to get inverter AC to the fridge.

I have run the C on the inverter when the DC element wouldn’t cut it. I have the DC element on an ignition controlled relay. With the engine off the element is open circuit. Great for gas stops. No battery drain, nothing to remember.

Also gotta admit I carried the larger element around for a year before I had to pull the fridge for other reasons and installed it. The RM2663 element could be switched out without removal.

 

[Bud-ClassB]

Some of us don’t like running down the road with an open flame and propane valve open. Gotta admit I left Phoenix yesterday on propane till I got to altitude.

My B doesn’t have a way to get inverter AC to the fridge.

I have run the C on the inverter when the DC element wouldn’t cut it. I have the DC element on an ignition controlled relay. With the engine off the element is open circuit. Great for gas stops. No battery drain, nothing to remember.

Also gotta admit I carried the larger element around for a year before I had to pull the fridge for other reasons and installed it. The RM2663 element could be

switched out without removal.

If I'm recalling anywhere near, your B is a Roadtrek 190, 210.

If so, it was pretty straightforward, simple to gain 120 inverter AC for the fridge with an 05/04 190P. Avanti was of assitance when suggesting an ATS, so I did not have plug the fridge into shore/gen power then inverter. Auto now, switch from propane to ac - shore power, then generator, then inverter. And yes, I've stored the shore power cord that night, so I could just drive off the next moring leaving home. Turned on the battery switch, but forgot the to turn on the inverter. Next trip I'll have an temperature alarm to solve that before I notice the fridge temperature. The ATS was also simple, quick to install, about $60 I think.

I have found with the fridge DC is LOUSY with propane and AC to be about the same.

Understand about the propane and safety, but I grew up and have lived in a different world.

Bud

 

[hbn7hj]

I have run propane on the highway for 20 years, never had a problem. One day I failed to turn it off at the pumps. Looked down and fuel was flowing past my feet from someone else. I moved pretty quick to get things shut down. The hassle running on propane are the fuel stops. You really shouldn’t burn a flame at the pumps.

Mine is a 190 and I modified it to run the fridge with the battery switch off. The DC heater watts is the same as AC now. The lower power DC elements have more to do with DC current than anything with the fridge. Today things are different but I had a 1976 American Clipper. The alternator couldn’t keep up with headlights, marker lights and dash AC. We were dead in the road before we got home. Forget about running a DC fridge. 270 watts is something around 22 amps. We can do it today but just a few years ago you couldn’t which is why the early small Dometics were DC 115 watts.

 

[themexicandoctor]

Good answers.

I too was born about 200 years too late.

A small propane explosion was the least of my worries.

I will say that before I dip kicked the 3 way, every 21 days would be required to fill the 8 gallon tank.

Its now been 9 weeks or so & the propane level is still 3/4's full.