Dometic RM2310 to 2354 in RT 170 1997

So how are the temps reading now that you've given it time to cool?

I have a 1997 PleasureWay on the Dodge chassis as well as the same RM2310 that you have.

FANS: I put 2 140mm 12volt computer fans in the upper vent That size chosen because of matching them to the size of my vent. They blow out and the idea is to pull in outside air from the bottom vent and pass it by the coils in the back and out the top. I also made a small baffle out of a piece of foil backed styrofoam that is held on to the inside of the van side to help force that air past the coils.

THERMOSTAT: I replaced mine and it is a job to do. You have to pull the fridge out of the van so you can work on the back and bottom, removing things that are in the way. It's stuffed in there and you can't access it from the front at all. BTW my old and new thermostat go: OFF-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-MAX. Don't know why MAX and OFF are next to each other on yours.
 
And (I forgot):

CONDITION: I believe that when the absorption process is run it will slowly
accumulate solids in the tubes under normal conditions. The Amish run this
type of fridge in their homes and eventually need to replace the coils. And in these cases I would guess that they have always been leveled. No question that running it off-level accelerates the process, however. Remember that our RM2310s were installed in our RVs 27 years ago. That's a pretty long life.
 
RT1997: I can't tell by your pic if the end of the capillary tube is broken off or if it is still intact. I replaced thermostat and the instructions do warn you to be careful not to damage the tube (which you should see running out of the fridge back and down to the bottom of the fridge where the thermostat is). You can't replace the tube alone if it's broken; you have to replace the entire thermostat.

RT-NY: So my thermostat replacement is working in both electrical and gas modes. What I want to add is when you get to the thermostat to replace it, you also have good access to the switch. The bottom of the switch are has a cover that you have to remove to easily get to the thermostat. Once off it's a simple mechanism, completely exposed for cleaning. I used a healthy amount of electrical contact cleaner and then a slight bit of silicone on the areas that the shaft rubs. Very smooth action now and, of course, the thermostat is smooth as it's new.
View attachment 723864
Clip at very top connects to gas valve to open valve whan in "GAS" position. Electrical contacts for 120v and 12v on exposed area of switch below

RT1997: I can't tell by your pic if the end of the capillary tube is broken off or if it is still intact. I replaced thermostat and the instructions do warn you to be careful not to damage the tube (which you should see running out of the fridge back and down to the bottom of the fridge where the thermostat is). You can't replace the tube alone if it's broken; you have to replace the entire thermostat.

RT-NY: So my thermostat replacement is working in both electrical and gas modes. What I want to add is when you get to the thermostat to replace it, you also have good access to the switch. The bottom of the switch are has a cover that you have to remove to easily get to the thermostat. Once off it's a simple mechanism, completely exposed for cleaning. I used a healthy amount of electrical contact cleaner and then a slight bit of silicone on the areas that the shaft rubs. Very smooth action now and, of course, the thermostat is smooth as it's new.
View attachment 723864
Clip at very top connects to gas valve to open valve whan in "GAS" position. Electrical contacts for 120v and 12v on exposed area of switch below.
Gallen,
I have a RM2310 fridge which I just pulled out & turned over. I broke a part - the white thing at the bottom of your switch pic. I am trying to find it's name and part number, but not having any luck. I want to check the switch but am having trouble removing the cover. How did you do that.
Thanks,
STeve
 
I believe that I had to remove some frame screws but honestly hard to remember. I could send you a series of pics that I took of the process from start to finish of the thermostat replacement (with unit out of RV).
 
Here are a few regarding the standclip (you might be past this already but just in case)
 

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These next 2 relate to the screws I had to remove. Notice in #12 the white plastic switch cover is still in place (on the far left of the pic). Pic of removing screws on other side shows it off and I think that means it was possible to remove after removing that second set of screws.
 

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Those pics are not helping. Here's a pic of the bottom of the fridge and then of the broken part circled in red. That part is visible in your original pic in post#8.
 

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ok. I see the issue. In your first pic there's a bracket to one side of the plastic cover. On mine, the bracket was held on by 2 metal screws. It's possible I removed that bracket. But the broken part is a bigger issue. That is, as I recall, spring loaded so you can get it off the shaft of the switch. I have the spare parts list for the 2310 and it only lists the rod with the plastic part as a complete assembly. The number it lists is 200 74 75-01/1. It's probably not available but you could do a search. Otherwise you may be able to figure out a way to fabricate something or perhaps some way to reconnect the plastic end to the rod. Sorry I can't be of much help.
 
ok. I see the issue. In your first pic there's a bracket to one side of the plastic cover. On mine, the bracket was held on by 2 metal screws. It's possible I removed that bracket. But the broken part is a bigger issue. That is, as I recall, spring loaded so you can get it off the shaft of the switch. I have the spare parts list for the 2310 and it only lists the rod with the plastic part as a complete assembly. The number it lists is 200 74 75-01/1. It's probably not available but you could do a search. Otherwise you may be able to figure out a way to fabricate something or perhaps some way to reconnect the plastic end to the rod. Sorry I can't be of much help.
Thanks for your replies.
 
ok. I see the issue. In your first pic there's a bracket to one side of the plastic cover. On mine, the bracket was held on by 2 metal screws. It's possible I removed that bracket. But the broken part is a bigger issue. That is, as I recall, spring loaded so you can get it off the shaft of the switch. I have the spare parts list for the 2310 and it only lists the rod with the plastic part as a complete assembly. The number it lists is 200 74 75-01/1. It's probably not available but you could do a search. Otherwise you may be able to figure out a way to fabricate something or perhaps some way to reconnect the plastic end to the rod. Sorry I can't be of much help.
WHere does the spring go? I found a loose one after pulling the fridge.
 
WHere does the spring go? I found a loose one after pulling the fridge.
I figured out where the spring goes and I think how it all gets assembled. The saucer end of the white piece has a flat edge in the center hole as does the shaft from the switch. Lining them up joins them. The spring goes in the other end of that white piece. I'm thinking of trying to super glue the broken piece back on it. I think I have to figure out when to get the long axle shaft into it. Maybe before the glue. Or maybe I can take of the front knob and pull the shaft back & then push it into the white piece. If I can't get this to work I may just leave it lined up for gas operation and put it all back together. Then I hope I could run it on gas all the time.
 
I'm not sure how far you can pull the shaft back from the front. The parts diagram shows a slight collar close to the front. Looks like a couple of inches away but there's also a bracket that it runs through. Maybe you can get it assembled with superglue and also put a small c-clamp around the remaining plastic sleeve. It's always an adventure. Good luck.
 

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