Dometic RM2310

[Raindem]

And for the next of my noob questions...

I have a Dometic RM2310 3-way. It works fine in 110V mode. But in 12V mode it doesn't cool down. I've had it there for a couple hours and the freezer barely gets a little cool. Wouldn't even keep a snickers bar from melting. Is that normal? Is 12V mode mainly for maintaining an already cold fridge?

The real problem is propane mode. I can't get it to light. I followed the steps listed in the owners manual but it's just not firing up. What troubleshooting steps can I take before taking it to an RV service center?

Thanks

Curt

 

[AK49er]

Did you turn the propane back on after you shut it off to try the hwh switches?

 

[Caped Crusader]

DC well not cool very well, really only used while driving to keep a fridge that is all ready cold, cold, or cool depending on the ambient temp.
Put a remote thermometer in your fridge to monitor temps, don't want to get sick on spoiled food. Also, if you don't already have one, a little fan will help circulate the air, and keep food cooler, and only open the door when needed, and close it right away.
For the propane try lighting your stove to purge the line, then shut off the stove, and then try the fridge on propane.

 

[Raindem]

Yes, the propane is turned on. I lit the stove burner and it worked fine.

I think it might electrical, because I don't even see a spark when I hit the igniter.

 

[markopolo-ClassB]

I think it is Piezo Lighter in my Dometic. No power needed.

Do you light yours by pushing and holding one button in then pressing the lighter button which makes something like a snapping sound?

 

[Raindem]

Yes. I hold the one button in while pushing the starter. It does make a snapping sound. Just no ignition. Should I be able to see a spark?

 

[Caped Crusader]

Are you holding the one button down, and pushing the other button repeatedly until the line is in the green, then release the button you were holding in?

 

[Raindem]

...until the line is in the green...

What does that mean?

The instructions say to hold the button in for 10 seconds after it lights. Of course, which I never have to do because it doesn't light.

 

[Caped Crusader]

GAS OPERATION
Refrigerators with Piezo lgnitor (RM2310 & RM2410)
To start the refrigerator, turn knob “A” to the “GAS” position.
Turn the thermostat knob “B” one-quarter (l/4) of a turn from the “OFF” position.
Push button “C” in until it bottoms out-and hold. While holding button “C”, push button “D” for the piezo ignitor several times to light the burner. This can be observed through the flame view port, “E”, on the refrigerator.
After the flame lights, continue to hold button “C” for an additional fifteen (15) seconds. Release the button “C” and check the flame view port “E” to make sure the burner does not go out. If the burner goes out, repeat the lighting procedure.
To shut off the refrigerator, turn Knob “A” to the “OFF” position.

You need to keep pushing the D button repeatedly until the flame indicator shows lit in flame view port. (in the green) That's how mine worked, maybe you have a different flame port.
Anyway that's the best discription I can give you.
If it doesn't light might be time to take it to a pro.

 

[Raindem]

Yeah. Over the last week I must have pushed that button 100 times. Never lit. Never even saw a spark. We took it for a short 2-day camping trip. And even plugged into 110V it didn't cool that well. I was hoping to avoid expensive repairs right off the bat with this rig, but I guess not.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

And for the next of my noob questions...

I have a Dometic RM2310 3-way. It works fine in 110V mode. But in 12V mode it doesn't cool down. I've had it there for a couple hours and the freezer barely gets a little cool. Wouldn't even keep a snickers bar from melting. Is that normal? Is 12V mode mainly for maintaining an already cold fridge?

The real problem is propane mode. I can't get it to light. I followed the steps listed in the owners manual but it's just not firing up. What troubleshooting steps can I take before taking it to an RV service center?

Thanks

Curt

It isn't surprising that it doesn't cool on 12VDC. My RM2310 would kill both of my batteries before it got anywhere near cold.
The propane situation sounds like you need service on it if you press and hold the gas button while repeatedly pressing the igniter button. I usually have to press it 3 or 4 times before the red needle in the little window starts to move from the red to the green area of the indicator. You might try getting your propane tank filled to full to increase the pressure in the system before you spend any money on diagnostics.

 

[Raindem]

Thanks Mike. Yes, the propane was filled and is flowing to other appliances (i.e. stove).

I took off the outside cover, revealing the back side of the fridge. I dusted out the compartment with compressed air because I read that spider webs and such can prevent gas flow. Still no ignition, however.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

In that case, I'm stumped. It's hard to diagnose some stuff over the Internet. I'll have a look at the back of mine tomorrow and see if it pops up any virtual light bulbs.

 

[Raindem]

Just wanted to bump this thread because we're still having trouble with this fridge.

Still can't get it to light on propane. So if we're camping off the grid I'd have to run the generator pretty much full time to keep it cool, since the 12V setting doesn't work worth a darn either. We're going on a cross-country trip in a month so I have to get this fixed. I'll take to a dealer if I have to, but it seems like it should be something simple. I just don't know enough about these units.

Thanks

Curt

 

[AmCruiser]

Try this link to the Dometic RM2310 Service Tips manual.
http://www.manualslib.com/download/4615 ... m2310.html

 

[Raindem]

Thanks for the link AmCruiser but I already have the manual. I also have an 88 page Dometic diagnostics pdf that I'm trying to work through. I'm starting to think it might be the igniter switch.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

Just wanted to bump this thread because we're still having trouble with this fridge.

Still can't get it to light on propane. So if we're camping off the grid I'd have to run the generator pretty much full time to keep it cool, since the 12V setting doesn't work worth a darn either. We're going on a cross-country trip in a month so I have to get this fixed. I'll take to a dealer if I have to, but it seems like it should be something simple. I just don't know enough about these units.

Thanks

Curt

The 12v setting only works with unlimited 12v power available, like when you're driving and the alternator is charging your coach battery while the fridge is on and drawing on it. Not recommended for stationary (chassis engine off ) operation unless also plugged in to shore power.
I had a look at mine (which is actually the RM2353 model even though my OM says it's the RM2333R) and couldn't see anything else that might be problematic (pardon the delay in updating). I noted that when lighting it, my gas feed button has 2 feels to it when pressed. It starts off mushy, then almost clicks when pressed almost flush with the face of the control panel. The igniter button does what's expected, which is to resist when pressed, then to release and click as the DSI spark fires. Silly question but do you have the thermostat knob set to 4 or some other cooling setting while you're trying to light it? Ours is always set to 4 as suggested somewhere in the reams of documentation.

I just fired mine up on gas. I depress the gas feed button all the way to almost flush with the face of the panel. I then press the igniter at 1 second intervals until the little red needle starts to creep to the right towards the green zone on the gas/flame status meter. I stop pressing the igniter when I see it start to move, but continue to hold the gas feed button for another 30 to 45 seconds to allow the thermocouple to warm up and open the gas flow to maintain operation while on gas.
That's it. No more switching or pressing. We're live.
Is your coach battery fully charged? It supplies the power to the igniter. Just a thought. Maybe try idling the engine while you try lighting the fridge or plugging into shore power. Another thought?

If none of this helps, have a look at the trouble shooting manual link, and get service if all else fails.
Wish I could be more help. I feel your frustration. It's often part of the RV experience.

 

[Raindem]

Thanks for the info Mike. I'm going to try some of your suggestions later today.

Silly question but do you have the thermostat knob set to 4 or some other cooling setting while you're trying to light it? Ours is always set to 4 as suggested somewhere in the reams of documentation.

Sort of. The manual says to turn the temp knob all the way clockwise, then back CCW a quarter turn, which puts it on around #7. But I've also tried it at other settings. "Max" and some other lower setting.

I just fired mine up on gas. I depress the gas feed button all the way to almost flush with the face of the panel. I then press the igniter at 1 second intervals until the little red needle starts to creep to the right towards the green zone on the gas/flame status meter.

I don't have a status meter on my fridge. There's a little window on mine, but I'm not sure what is supposed to be showing in it.

Is your coach battery fully charged? It supplies the power to the igniter. Just a thought. Maybe try idling the engine while you try lighting the fridge or plugging into shore power. Another thought?

Oh. I thought the igniter was a self-contained unit, like on a BBQ grill. I'll try your suggestion and plug into power when I go to light it.

If none of this helps, have a look at the trouble shooting manual link, and get service if all else fails. Wish I could be more help. I feel your frustration. It's often part of the RV experience.

Yep, that's pretty much where I'm at. You've been very helpful, though. Even if we didn't fix the problem. Thanks.

 

[Mike-ClassB]

re: igniter power. My bad. I see they mention a piezo igniter on page 7 of the RM2310 install/owner's manual under the "Gas Operation" heading. Mine also has a piezo igniter as it's almost as old as yours. Don't know why I was thinking DSI.

The little window on yours is the observation port for successful ignition. Not getting much use so far?
My model has the operational status window/meter. Sorry.

 

[Raindem]

No problem. Just a few minutes ago I tried it again while plugged in...just in case. Still no joy.

Tomorrow I'll start working through the troubleshooting guide.