1986 RT, too old?

[DetroitRed]

Hi, Forum members, I've been reading your discussions and have learned a lot. It is certain that I prefer a very old RT so that I can make modifications appropriate for my needs.

So we have the option to get a 1986 RoadTrek. It was sitting for several years so the tires are cracked and everything, and must be replaced. There are 103,000 miles. I will have an RVIA and Dodge inspection if I decide to go toward this option.

I would want to make custom platform for the bed in the back to accommodate the musical equipment which would go with us. Replace refrigerator. Put composting toilet in place of regular toilet (and, yes, I know the opinions about composting toilets but I feel certain this is the right idea). Replace floor carpets. And all upholstery. Install Solar and solar batteries. Paint professionally. I have heard several of you discussing replacing the shocks and struts even on new vehicles, so I would expect to do that, too.

I would want to do all of the aforementioned to any older RV I bought, anyway. So what do you, experienced Class B users advise? And, what sort of price should I be looking to pay? I'm thinking $2500-3000.

Thanks for your advice.

 

[mkguitar]

a B will often have little carrying capacity once you have a couple of passengers, food and water.

How much weight are you thinking?...most gtrs will run 15 pounds or so w/ case an amp 40 to 60 pounds

an early version EFI will look at maybe 10 MPG

the suspension bushings and steering gear should all be looked at, also seals- a motor or tranny which sits the main seals can/will dry out and the labour to pull and fix is costly..the coolant could have caused corrosion and deposits through out the motor.

there is a difference between "stored" and "parked"

I am just now reviving a '72 eldo which sat for about 10 years- I am at about $2000 so far...and there will be more I would estimate another $1500 to make reliably drivable- the labour ( me) is free...still needs paint, interior and conv top

mike

 

[DetroitRed]

Thanks for good suggestions

Thank you for the good ideas. Part of the reason that the composting toilet will be good is to reduce weight, as black tank will not be used.

I will make sure to have the issues you refer to checked with the inspection. I surely don't have the automotive skills to handle them. I can do the mechanical, plumbing, carpentry for the RV parts only.

The equipment is an electric keyboard, keyboard stand, two large speakers, speaker stands and piano stool.

Thanks again, and I will keep thinking. To some extent, it might be best to buy a more recent van and do a van conversion?

 

[Bud-ClassB]

"Part of the reason that the composting toilet will be good is to reduce weight, as black tank will not be used."

mkguitar did not mention anything about a composting toilet. You wrote:

"Put composting toilet in place of regular toilet (and, yes, I know the opinions about composting toilets but I feel certain this is the right idea)."

Have you computed how much a black water tank, black water tank stuff, etc. weighs?

Still, you 'feel certain'. You do not need to explain beyond weight.

I am interested in how much an entire paint job will cost, any estimate yet?

Thanks.

Bud

 

[Bruceper]

Here's the thing, since it's an older van, nearly any mechanic can fix it and the parts are cheap.

If you like it, go for it.

Price? I'd think no more than $1500. It's going to have issues, rotten tires are just the first step.

 

[DetroitRed]

Paint Job

I have seen that these are painted for approximately $6700. My local body shop doesn't have a big enough paint booth, so I am waiting for a quote from the bigger place they recommend.

a 24 gallon black tank weighs 16 pounds, plus 200 pounds when full. The music equipment weighs about 120 pounds. The composting toilet I already own weighs about 15 pounds and can hold only three gallons at a time, or 25 pounds.

 

[DetroitRed]

Are you suggesting just to skip the inspection but only pay $1500? RV inspection was quoted at $300 and I don't yet know how much to have to pay the Dodge inspection. Thanks for the point about the availability of mechanics.

 

[Bud-ClassB]

Thanks for the response concerning weight and paint DetroitRed.

I think that you'll find from the brochure that the black water tank is 1/2 what you quoted or 1/2 the weight, IF full, 96 pounds. All told less the compose solution, a black water tank is less than a passenger. That means virtually nothing cruising, but yes if overcoming inertia and/or gravity.

The 6700 would be a good deal if 'a good enough paint job'.

I can see not spending a dime on inspections, tough choice for me - got a coin to flip.

Have fun with your project, this B or another one.

Bud

 

[booster]

I agree with a lot that has been said, especially about how very expensive it can be to get an older vehicle truly, reliably, road ready. It can take hundreds of hours to fix all the mechanicals, which will likely be needed, so if you can't do the work yourself and pay going shop rates ($80+ per hour if you are lucky), it can easily get to many thousands of dollars. If you find rust or structural issues, it could be prohibitive to fix it, even. I bought my 1996 Buick Roadmaster 3.5 years ago, and it was very drivable when I got it and drove it 700 miles home. I spent over 50 hours just changing all the fluids, checking all the brakes and other mechanicals, new belts, fuel filter, spark plugs (ugly job), wheel bearing service, shocks,and other "maintenance" stuff to make it what I would consider roadworthy and reliable. It didn't require any of the major engine, transmission, rear end, steering, air conditioning, electrical, cooling, type stuff done.

Personally, if I couldn't do the vehicle work myself, I would look for a newer and well maintained unit, as it could easily be cheaper in the long run, and also worth more when you go to sell. If you are comfortable with doing the RV mods yourself, you won't be limited to a certain model, so that makes finding a good unit and a good price a lot easier because you are going to mod it anyway.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I am sure you will get it figured out one way or another.

 

[DetroitRed]

Thanks for your time and ideas. I'm still considering everything and will post with my decision.

 

[DetroitRed]

It's really a conundrum because we can theoretically afford any price of Roadtrek, but at our ages (47 and 53) we feel like it's not a good use of savings to buy something expensive. If we turn out to need the money in retirement, we will be sad. And so many sellers just seem to misrepresent everything, so the strategy of starting with something from which we would have almost no expectations seems attractive.

 

[jrobe-ClassB]

I wouldn't touch a 30 year old vehicle for any price. I would also just assume that it is going to be a huge money pit. This is a no-brainer. Just say no. If you can't find and afford a nice 10 year old or less van, I would probably just bag the RV idea.

 

[BBQ-ClassB]

I wouldn't touch a 30 year old vehicle for any price. I would also just assume that it is going to be a huge money pit. This is a no-brainer. Just say no. If you can't find and afford a nice 10 year old or less van, I would probably just bag the RV idea.

Agreed.


If you have to do a major refurb,
you might as well buy an old empty van
and build the inside yourself.

 

[peteco]

Agreed.


If you have to do a major refurb,
you might as well buy an old empty van
and build the inside yourself.

But the inside is where a big part of the cost is. If you are handy enough to build the inside I assume you are handy enough to do mechanical repairs other than major engine or transmission work. If the seller allows, take it to a mechanic for their inspection. Drive it on the highway and see how it does. If it drives and shifts fine, and does not smoke then you should have a good basic vehicle. Expect to put a few thousand over the first few years. No guarantee you won't have a major expense so judge the risk. If the inside is nice and it passes the above mechanical checks then I would go for it, again assuming you can handle most mechanical repairs. This is assuming you can get it for a few thousand. Don't overpay. Look on Roadtrek members site, eBay, PPL, and other RV ad sites for others for sale.

 

[gerrym51]

Thank you for the good ideas. Part of the reason that the composting toilet will be good is to reduce weight, as black tank will not be used.

I will make sure to have the issues you refer to checked with the inspection. I surely don't have the automotive skills to handle them. I can do the mechanical, plumbing, carpentry for the RV parts only.

The equipment is an electric keyboard, keyboard stand, two large speakers, speaker stands and piano stool.

Thanks again, and I will keep thinking. To some extent, it might be best to buy a more recent van and do a van conversion?

composting toilet a mistake. get a porta potti. thats what most sportsmobile use.

 

[DetroitRed]

I am really not handy with the car aspects at all. Dad trained me carefully on home repair, including carpentry, electric, and plumbing. As he didn't know a thing about cars, I didn't even know how to change the oil. Sad but true.

 

[DetroitRed]

A partial decision

I want to thank everyone for the ideas and input. I'm going to let this "opportunity" pass me by and probably buy a more expensive/newer one. Maybe in the $40-50K range won't make me feel so much is being lost from retirement savings. Thanks again, folks.

 

[mkguitar]

for a $$$ comparison- we budgeted $70k with the ability to go higher if needed...we shopped and compared, the more we looked, the better we got an idea of which features we wanted, and did not.

in the end we spent less than 1/2 or budget for an 8 year old model and have been happy in every way with our choice.

it's on a chev, which means easy to work on, by anyone, anywhere with parts from any autoparts chain store.

It has required only a few fixes- some roof sealant, a new toilet fill valve nothing major to the RV part or the chassis

Mike

 

[peteco]

I am really not handy with the car aspects at all. Dad trained me carefully on home repair, including carpentry, electric, and plumbing. As he didn't know a thing about cars, I didn't even know how to change the oil. Sad but true.

Yes you should pass on this. You do need to plan to put yourself to learning as much as you can about vehicle and RV repair. Forums like this are excellent for asking questions when you have a problem. There are usually minor things needing repair. You should be able to get a solid vehicle for $40-50k. The Chevy or Ford based vehicles are very solid and repair costs are minimal. Gas costs are higher than a diesel like the Mercedes Sprinter but maintenance and repair costs are much lower.

 

[Bruceper]

I wouldn't touch a 30 year old vehicle for any price. I would also just assume that it is going to be a huge money pit. This is a no-brainer. Just say no. If you can't find and afford a nice 10 year old or less van, I would probably just bag the RV idea.

Take an older vehicle, fix it up and have a brand new vehicle for 10-20% of the cost for a 10 year old unit? Yes.

I've seen new vehicles have more problems than all of my "old" vehicles.

1993 Plymouth voyager
1993 Dodge Ram
1992 Dodge B350 Pleasure Way
1982 Dodge Ram

Time "lost" to breakdowns or garages in the last year? None.

One of the big differences is that I buy them in good condition and fix them myself. Sure some things I can't do but then I have mechanic friends including one that works at a transmission shop. If you don't have the knowledge to do it yourself then an older vehicle is not the way to go.

And when I do retire and sell the house, I'll probably buy new at that point as I may not be able to get under a van for a few hours and work on it.