Wiring for trailer

[markopolo]

I decided to finally tackle installing the wiring for trailer towing after owning the 7-way outlet and T-connector harness for this model year van for 4 1/2 years!

Yup, I bought what I need for this job way back when the purchased the Class V hitch: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f6...-etc-1747.html

The problem has always been that on the two or so previous occasions that I attempted to start this job was that I could not find the connectors on the right and left sides of the van. There are lots of helpful videos and web guides out there but the wiring in my van wasn't in the same place.

I've come to the conclusion that the previous owner rerouted the wiring to get it out of the way for the camper conversion process. I eventually found the wiring connectors I had been looking for in the pillars behind the tail lights but accessible only from the outside of the van. I was still able to route the T-connector kit wires and converter inside the rear door pillars.

I had to remove the rear pressure vents on both sides of van to get into the pillars. The vents are above the tail lights and under some rear trim. If you have never removed the trim from above the tail lights I'd suggest adding that to a maintenance list for once in a while tasks. There were some pine needle and stuff behind the trim on my garage kept van. Additionally, one of the rubber louvers on one of the almost foot long pressure vents was being held open by some insect's abandoned cocoon.

I ended up destroying one pressure vent. It was brittle from age and it shattered as I tried to pull it out. The gasket was in good shape and I used it on the other pressure vent which came out in one piece but with the gasket in a few pieces.

I used Eterna bond tape to cover the hole where the now shattered pressure vent used to reside. Eterna bond tape is awesome, I wish you luck if you ever have to remove some! I have one pressure vent left in the rear now but as most conversion vans are sealed up pretty tight inside I think having one in my van is ok.

This post is getting kind of long so I'll sum up by saying the wiring is in place and everything is put back together inside the van and outside. The basic 4-way connector is now located by the hitch.

There's lots still left to do: install 7-way socket, 12v+ and ground wires and a brake controller and related wiring.

[Bruceper]

Oh the fun of finding new things to maintain on a vehicle. Good work getting it done.

[markopolo]

More fun to come today when I get back at it

I removed the backup beeper wires from the 7-way outlet but left the led lights in place. I suspect they'll flash when reversing but hope they don't.

keep leds remove beeper.JPG

I'm going to have more "ways" than needed but options are good.

4-way flat
4-way round
5-way flat
6-way round with pins
7-way round blade style

4way 5way 6way 7way.JPG

Some months ago I mistakenly bought the 6-way round on clearance for $6. I bought the yellow thing yesterday for $14. It plugs into the 6-way and gives me 4 and 5 way flat connections and two 12 volt accessory outlets.

The exterior 12volt outlets on 10ga wire will be handy for the 12v air compressor & stuff like that.

I could see wiring a 6 or 7 way round plug for easy portable solar input. I don't need that but it could be an option for anyone with portable solar.

[booster]

When I looked into putting a brake controller into our 07 Chevy, which I haven't done to this point, I ran across a bunch of stuff related to the Chevy trailer wiring. They had odd packages of trailer prep wiring from the factory, leaving blunt ends and such, but there were other things that also were included. I think one of them was designated flasher control box that may have also added relays and larger harness to the rear for the lights, IIRC. Folks said the stock wiring was too small to run trailer lights properly. I know this can happen because my old Mercury Tracer wiring wouldn't run my utility trailer, that had only two lights. They would barely glow. I had to replace the trailer lights with LED to lower the current so you could see the lights on the trailer and the car.

I checked our Roadtrek at the time, and though it has an 4 and 7 pin connection, and a huge hitch, it does not have the trailer package. The connectors are tied into the taillights.

[markopolo]

I think the 4-way to 7-way install is common but the 7-way isn't fully connected. It still gives only the same functions as a 4-way which is basic stop/turn & running lights.

The kit I purchased for this specific van included a converter box. This is what I have: CURT Manufacturing - CURT T-Connector #55335 it was only $36 when I bought it! I think the circuit protection function limits the turn and brake circuits to 3 amps and tail light circuits to 7.5 amps according to the link.

LED's would help - thanks for the tip.

The 7-way could have 4 wires taped off or unused that would need to be connected.
1. ground
2. 12v
3. brake controller
4. reverse lights (optional)

(my numbering does not relate to pinouts)

When & if I need a brake controller I'll go with the very expensive (US$300) Prodigy RF. It would be a wireless install for my van. My van is a 1997 and, from what I've read, GM did not include brake control module sockets until the 1999 model year. I don't want to tap into a bunch of wires. If a plugin module was available I could use a $100 to $150 brake controller.

I had a wireless control in the Bigfoot C when I towed the Ford Escape and it worked well. Nice thing about the wireless unit is that you keep it when you sell the tow vehicle.

My goal right now is to have a license plate with light and stop / turn / running light on the cargo box with bikes on top: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...html#post28607

That would make it legal in all jurisdictions I expect. I already have magnetic stop/turn/running trailer lights that I'll reuse for this project.

Edit: just to add that a mix of LED and incandescent should still work with existing flasher controls. All LED might not work on older vehicles. I think the older flasher modules need a certain amperage or resistance to function properly. That's how it was on '04 Ford based Class C I had.

[booster]

The mix of incandescent and LED worked fine on the Tracer. Brightened the lights up and still flashed right without changing the flasher.

[markopolo]

That's how it worked on Ford Class C also even without anything being towed. It had the typical RV type incandescent lights and some aftermarket 6" round Grote combo stop/turn LED lights mounted fairly high - maybe 6' off the ground.

I'd know if an incandescent in the mix burnt out because the flasher would do that really rapid clicking thing.

[sheral]

Originally Posted by markopolo

I think the 4-way to 7-way install is common but the 7-way isn't fully connected. It still gives only the same functions as a 4-way which is basic stop/turn & running lights.

The kit I purchased for this specific van included a converter box. This is what I have: CURT Manufacturing - CURT T-Connector #55335 it was only $36 when I bought it! I think the circuit protection function limits the turn and brake circuits to 3 amps and tail light circuits to 7.5 amps according to the link.

LED's would help - thanks for the tip.

The 7-way could have 4 wires taped off or unused that would need to be connected.
1. ground
2. 12v
3. brake controller
4. reverse lights (optional)

(my numbering does not relate to pinouts)

When & if I need a brake controller I'll go with the very expensive (US$300) Prodigy RF. It would be a wireless install for my van. My van is a 1997 and, from what I've read, GM did not include brake control module sockets until the 1999 model year. I don't want to tap into a bunch of wires. If a plugin module was available I could use a $100 to $150 brake controller.

I had a wireless control in the Bigfoot C when I towed the Ford Escape and it worked well. Nice thing about the wireless unit is that you keep it when you sell the tow vehicle.

My goal right now is to have a license plate with light and stop / turn / running light on the cargo box with bikes on top: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...html#post28607

That would make it legal in all jurisdictions I expect. I already have magnetic stop/turn/running trailer lights that I'll reuse for this project.

Edit: just to add that a mix of LED and incandescent should still work with existing flasher controls. All LED might not work on older vehicles. I think the older flasher modules need a certain amperage or resistance to function properly. That's how it was on '04 Ford based Class C I had.

What's kinda nice about the 7 pin too is that the 5'th pin (reverse lights) can be useful if you have a trailer with surge brakes. The 5'th pin will disengage the surge brakes when backing a boat down a ramp, etc.

Nice work on getting the wiring done. It sounds as if you may have practiced your language skills during that task!