User1213 2006 Roadtrek 210 Popular Build

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Hondo

If someone were to take a 190 and do the same it would provide additional payload capability as they weigh less than the 210s from the start but use the same platform. If I had to take more weight I could use a trailer vs the 190 just packing it in/on.

Roadtrek offered the Quigley 4WD option on the 190 until about 3 years when the option was deleted. But I was surprised to learn from their C/S, that if the customer insists, they will include the 4WD option, but won't quote a price for the option until time of sale and God knows when it will be delivered.

[User1213]

Advanced Four Wheel Drive Systems can convert and lift 190s just as easy as they did my 210.

[User1213]

Since I moved up to larger tires I needed to modify the spare tire mount to accommodate them.

The stock size for my Roadtrek 210 was a 245/75R-16, a 30.5 inch tire. The new tires are 285-70R-17, a 32.7 inch tire that is 2.2 inches taller and 1.6 inches wider.

When I tried to mount the new wheel/tire to the spare tire carrier it was just too big. It was too deep to lay flat across the mount and too tall to clear the bumper -



Because of the Versahaul motorcycle carrier I could not move the carrier aft so I needed to lengthen the vertical tubing so it could clear the bumper but I also needed to make the mount longer so that the spare wheel would fit square against the carrier mount.

I cut the wheel mount off of the vertical tubing and welded 1.5 inch sections to the mount.I cut the vertical tubing and then welded in a 3 inch section to raise the tire away from the bumper. Then I welded the mount back onto the vertical tubing and cleaned up the welded areas with grinders.

Test fit -



There is a little over an inch between the tire and the rear door-



Up & in place -



A comparison of the stock tire & carrier -



After cleaning up the carrier I spray painted it with 2 coats of satin black -



Installed and with the locking bolt tightened down and the spare is up & out of the way.

I'll have to come up with some kind of cover, maybe a white vinyl cover modded to fit, I'll get to that sometime soon.

[User1213]

A few days ago I noticed that my Air Lift compressor wasn't working and the wireless controller posted a FAIL message. I installed the Wireless Air system in July of 2017 to replace an older wired Air Lift system that had a bad manifold.


Luckily for me I sat the old compressor on my work bench as a spare.


I found that the compressor was blowing the 15A fuse and I called Air Lift for advice. They said that is almost always a bad compressor and that they would get a new one out to me the same day!


So I removed the bad compressor and installed the old compressor that was probably over 10 years old. It worked right away with the new manifold/controller so when the new one arrives I'll keep that one as a spare.


Just thought I'd pass along my great experience with Air Lift support.
__________________

[User1213]

Since the wheel & tire is exposed I fabbed up a spare tire security chain today out of some coated steel chain, vinyl tubing and a rubberized Master Lock -

[Deano]

Did you lock the support post so they can't take the whole thing?

[User1213]

Originally Posted by Deano

Did you lock the support post so they can't take the whole thing?

No, they'd need 2 different sized wrenches to that.

[booster]

Couldn't you just use locking lug nuts on the spare?

[User1213]

Yeah, I looked into buying one just found sets of lock nuts.


A large lock through the vertical post was also an option but I didn't see one that would fit.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Hondo

A few days ago I noticed that my Air Lift compressor wasn't working and the wireless controller posted a FAIL message. I installed the Wireless Air system in July of 2017 to replace an older wired Air Lift system that had a bad manifold.


Luckily for me I sat the old compressor on my work bench as a spare.


I found that the compressor was blowing the 15A fuse and I called Air Lift for advice. They said that is almost always a bad compressor and that they would get a new one out to me the same day!


So I removed the bad compressor and installed the old compressor that was probably over 10 years old. It worked right away with the new manifold/controller so when the new one arrives I'll keep that one as a spare.


Just thought I'd pass along my great experience with Air Lift support.
__________________

Most of the mods on the Chevys like the better wheels, coil springs, shocks, anti-swaybar are bullet proof improvements with no failure rate. By comparison, the Air Lift setup seems to have multiple potential failure points. I had a coach that used a similar (but not wireless) system and over time there were multiple failures - first the compressor, then balky gauges, then leaking air lines, then leaky Tees. Isn't there a passive system like the Sumos that could provide a similar lift without violating the KISS principle?

[booster]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Most of the mods on the Chevys like the better wheels, coil springs, shocks, anti-swaybar are bullet proof improvements with no failure rate. By comparison, the Air Lift setup seems to have multiple potential failure points. I had a coach that used a similar (but not wireless) system and over time there were multiple failures - first the compressor, then balky gauges, then leaking air lines, then leaky Tees. Isn't there a passive system like the Sumos that could provide a similar lift without violating the KISS principle?

There are several ways to get the lift without using airbags, but none will give you the versatility of adjustments in height and ride, or the ride quality of airbags. A lot of the problems with the airbags that people have are because of leaks, and that can be an issue. The push in fittings that Airlift sends are pretty good ones, but any of the pushin fittings will start to leak if the lines are allowed to bounce at all. This is a particular issue with tees, which often are hanging in the air. We have a lot of connections on our setup with the compressor, tank, manual individual bag pressure controller, tire filling port, and air lines to the air powered tire lifter. I could get rid of the leaks, only to have them come back a year later. What I finally did was replace all the fittings with brass compression fittings with internal tube support sleeves. We have not had a leak in probably 5 years, and the bags stay at pressure all winter by themselves for months at a time. The remote control compressors have been a lot more problem than the manual valves, that is why we got the double control manual one.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by booster

There are several ways to get the lift without using airbags, but none will give you the versatility of adjustments in height and ride, or the ride quality of airbags.

I don't think the weight loads for the RV change much from trip to trip that would necessitate height adjustment but the air bags certainly do provide the optimum ride quality. But if you're willing to stay with a specific height, I wonder if something like the Sumos wouldn't get you to a ride quality fairly close to air bags. I think it's Coachmen or maybe WGO that's now adding them.

Do you know if a 210 with 3 lithiums installed where the Onan normally sits would sufficiently clear a stock sway bar?

[User1213]

When I had the initial lift done Boulder Offroad installed a set of leaf springs to provide the majority of the 3-4 inches of lift. They have 9 leaves in the spring pack and they hold the rear of the 210 level with the front end lift. I like to add air to help improve handling if the 210 is heavy.

Like Booster mentioned, I looped and secured my lines to minimize movement per the installation instructions. Not sure why the compressor that was a little over a year old died, but the 10 year old one is working fine now.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Hondo

When I had the initial lift done Boulder Offroad installed a set of leaf springs to provide the majority of the 3-4 inches of lift. They have 9 leaves in the spring pack and they hold the rear of the 210 level with the front end lift. I like to add air to help improve handling if the 210 is heavy.

Like Booster mentioned, I looped and secured my lines to minimize movement per the installation instructions. Not sure why the compressor that was a little over a year old died, but the 10 year old one is working fine now.

What rear sway bar did you use on your 210?

[User1213]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

What rear sway bar did you use on your 210?

This Roadmaster, 1 3/8 size -


https://www.etrailer.com/Anti-Sway-B...-1109-175.html


read here -


http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...html#post61482

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Hondo

This Roadmaster, 1 3/8 size -


https://www.etrailer.com/Anti-Sway-B...-1109-175.html


read here -


http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...html#post61482

Apparently both Roadmaster and Helwig offer a sway bar for the Express but I notice that Roadmaster offers it in either 1 3/8 or 1 1/2, Is there a tradeoff for using the larger dimension?

Did your sway bar clear the Onan generator without requiring any reposition. We have three lithiums where the Onan was and we'll have to see if they are within the envelope used by an Onan.

[User1213]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Apparently both Roadmaster and Helwig offer a sway bar for the Express but I notice that Roadmaster offers it in either 1 3/8 or 1 1/2, Is there a tradeoff for using the larger dimension?

Did your sway bar clear the Onan generator without requiring any reposition. We have three lithiums where the Onan was and we'll have to see if they are within the envelope used by an Onan.

Go back and read the entire installation.


I couldn't use the adapter mounts because of the airbags so I welded the backing plates to the Dana 60 mounting plates. Later on the Dana 70 I welded additional steel plate to the axle mount.


As far as size goes, I went with the 1 3/8 because it seemed like a good compromise between too much and not enough bar.



And I didn't have to do anything with the Genset.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by Hondo

Go back and read the entire installation.


I couldn't use the adapter mounts because of the airbags so I welded the backing plates to the Dana 60 mounting plates. Later on the Dana 70 I welded additional steel plate to the axle mount.


As far as size goes, I went with the 1 3/8 because it seemed like a good compromise between too much and not enough bar.



And I didn't have to do anything with the Genset.

If you ordered an 1109-175 you don't have a 1 3/8 sway bar. It's 1 1/2 inches. The 1 3/8 inch sway bar is a 1109-170.

What I don't understand is this: E trailer indicates the 2016 Chevy express 3500 comes standard with a rear sway bar. If this is the case, why would Roadtrek remove it unless they were installing something that interfered with it. I'm wondering if the sway bar itself is compatible but there is something in the way of installing the vertical end links.

Since I'm presently overstocked with boat anchors,I don't want to order this unless it will fit.

[booster]

Here is what we have found out in the past, a 2016 might be different, but some research will be needed.


The Express vans did not come with rear swaybars in the them.


A Helwig 1 3/8" bar will not fit if you have a generator unless you move the generator rearward a few inches.


The Roadmaster bars have been installed AFAIK in vans with generators, but some tweaking is required.



1 3/8" rear bar is what has been available for the Express until the bigger Roadmaster bar appeared. We have a custom 1 3/8" in our van and I am waiting to for a 1 1/2" bar to show up so I can test to see if bigger is better. Our bar is a dirt track style where you can replace just the bar without messing with the arms, links, or mounts so changeout is fairly easy.


On edit- I don't see any rear bar listed on GMparts direct or Rock Auto for the 2016 Express van. Putting a rear bar in empty vans could be very dangerous, as it could cause them to oversteer badly and spin out too easily, so they normally would not want one unless the van is fully loaded to counter the oversteer.


More information and I think a video here:


https://www.etrailer.com/question-263758.html

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by booster

Here is what we have found out in the past, a 2016 might be different, but some research will be needed.


The Express vans did not come with rear swaybars in the them.


A Helwig 1 3/8" bar will not fit if you have a generator unless you move the generator rearward a few inches.


The Roadmaster bars have been installed AFAIK in vans with generators, but some tweaking is required.



1 3/8" rear bar is what has been available for the Express until the bigger Roadmaster bar appeared. We have a custom 1 3/8" in our van and I am waiting to for a 1 1/2" bar to show up so I can test to see if bigger is better. Our bar is a dirt track style where you can replace just the bar without messing with the arms, links, or mounts so changeout is fairly easy.


On edit- I don't see any rear bar listed on GMparts direct or Rock Auto for the 2016 Express van. Putting a rear bar in empty vans could be very dangerous, as it could cause them to oversteer badly and spin out too easily, so they normally would not want one unless the van is fully loaded to counter the oversteer.


More information and I think a video here:


https://www.etrailer.com/question-263758.html

I need to check my pheromones. I've become a magnet for bad information. These vans are not equipped with rear sway bars.
But considering that the 210 has an 18 inch frame extension plus a lot more weight on the back end than a stock van, I think you would play hell trying to make it over steer.

etrailer's fit for the 3500 express is the 1 1/2 inch version. They indicate that some drilling is required. I will check with them tomorrow but my guess is that this involves the upper end of the side link. Since this is a box frame perhaps it also has to be tapped.

It's interesting that you're going to try the beefier bar. What I wonder is if there is a tradeoff for this. No doubt it will provide more resistance, but could it consequentially accelerate the correction return rate somewhat?

BTW, I found etrailer's C/S impressive. Right away during our conversation, they were on the phone with Roadmaster to get up to date information.