Some advice on a Chevy Suspension Upgrade

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by booster

The aluminum wheels will use different lug nuts. You can often find full sets of "take offs" on ebay very reasonably for the double thread version.

I see a bunch of sets for dual thread lug nuts but they aren't all the same and reference difference GM part numbers. Do you have an OEM part number for the lug nut that's compatible with the center cap?

[booster]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

I see a bunch of sets for dual thread lug nuts but they aren't all the same and reference difference GM part numbers. Do you have an OEM part number for the lug nut that's compatible with the center cap?

GM Parts Direct says it is 9595175 for both the 2007 like we have and for a 2015 model, so doesn't look like it has changed.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-EXPRE...4AAOSwpbFbeZOO

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by booster

The aluminum wheels will use different lug nuts. You can often find full sets of "take offs" on ebay very reasonably for the double thread version.

Thanks for the link you supplied for the dual threads. For some strange reason, the link works OK, but if I just ebay for Chevy dual thread nuts, that particular website doesn't turn up in the list.

Your point that the RT AR23s will use different lug nuts should be corrected to: AR23s should use different lug nuts. We spun one nut off our wheels and surprisingly it was the original dual thread nut. So, at least for a 2017, they reuse them with the aluminum wheel option but fortunately this works to our advantage since we are returning to steel wheels. If the bevel angles are the same (60 degrees?) for both lug nuts perhaps it doesn't make much difference.

[booster]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Thanks for the link you supplied for the dual threads. For some strange reason, the link works OK, but if I just ebay for Chevy dual thread nuts, that particular website doesn't turn up in the list.

Your point that the RT AR23s will use different lug nuts should be corrected to: AR23s should use different lug nuts. We spun one nut off our wheels and surprisingly it was the original dual thread nut. So, at least for a 2017, they reuse them with the aluminum wheel option but fortunately this works to our advantage since we are returning to steel wheels. If the bevel angles are the same (60 degrees?) for both lug nuts perhaps it doesn't make much difference.

Are you sure you have AR23 wheels and not some other style that has as bolt or clip on center cover over the lug nuts? The dual thread nuts would show poorly on an AR23.


https://www.amazon.com/American-Raci.../dp/B000CIFQ0O


The newer models don't use the AR23 any more, AFAIK.

[Hondo]

My AR23s came with chrome acorn (dress) lugnuts-

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by booster

Are you sure you have AR23 wheels and not some other style that has as bolt or clip on center cover over the lug nuts? The dual thread nuts would show poorly on an AR23.


https://www.amazon.com/American-Raci.../dp/B000CIFQ0O


The newer models don't use the AR23 any more, AFAIK.

As usual, you're right. Our 2017 wheels don't even faintly resemble an AR23. They have seven spokes with a center cap that is fastened with two hex bolts. However, the lug nuts on our wheels are dual thread but the outer thread is unused. So, isn't it likely that these dual thread lug nuts are the ones that fastened the steel wheels originally delivered to Roadtrek by Chevy?

[booster]

It is almost certain that they are the GM ones that would be used with the caps, and nut covers, as that is what would have been holding on the OEM wheels before Roadtrek replaced them with the aluminum wheels. No need to change the lug nuts if the are behind the cover.

[Deano]

Originally Posted by cruising7388

Thanks for the report. We're contemplating duplicating what you did. Do you think your factory supplied shocks are inadequate or could they just be old and tired?

FWIW, both front and one rear shock had lost their gas pressure.
I was a little surprised the OE were gas pressure shocks.

[CaDreamin]

My shks were gone at 75000 miles. You could compress them with one arm and there was no return.

[mangomike]

I'm thinking of do your list but in two steps for $$$$$ reasons
So I'm interested in handling improvements first
then raising the van later.
So for handling would
Roadmaster 1.375" diameter rear sway bar, and a Good alignment . Be enough or would you add the shocks at that time.
Q 2.
the wheel well measurement that is mentioned so often,,, is that simply from the ground to the highest point in the wheel well arch on the finished outside ?
Thanks for the info
Newbie
Michael Roadtrek 210 2008 chevy after 35 years in a tent

[booster]

Originally Posted by mangomike

I'm thinking of do your list but in two steps for $$$$$ reasons
So I'm interested in handling improvements first
then raising the van later.
So for handling would
Roadmaster 1.375" diameter rear sway bar, and a Good alignment . Be enough or would you add the shocks at that time.
Q 2.
the wheel well measurement that is mentioned so often,,, is that simply from the ground to the highest point in the wheel well arch on the finished outside ?
Thanks for the info
Newbie
Michael Roadtrek 210 2008 chevy after 35 years in a tent

I would do the sway bar, alignment, and also the shocks. I think it is a good idea in general, but even more if you haven't lifted at that point because you will be hitting the front overload bumpers and rear overload leaf at stock height. They tend to "kick back" more than the normal springs would and weak shocks can't damp out as much as new and better ones will. You should definitely feel less pitching around with the new shocks.


Good question on wheelwell height measuring. It is usually stated to measure at "highest point of the wheelwell" which is pretty non specific as it doesn't tie it down very well and makes it more subjective. I always measure at the wheel center to be more consistent, which is good for before and after checks. Go straight vertical from the ground, through the wheel center and to the lower edge of the wheel opening lip. On a stock Chevy Roadtrek you will probably be in the 33.5" range, maybe a bit more or less depending on your weight, and maybe a bit less with a 210 if you have a lot of weight in the far rear. It is always good to get a weight for the van front and rear plus total, so you know where you are, especially in a 210.

[CaDreamin]

I measured from the ground to the highest point of the wheel well, passing directly through the center of the wheel.

I didn’t add a sway bar, I probably won’t put one in. Sway is much reduced.

If you want to add the shocks and a sway bar first that’s not a bad way to go.

I would upgrade all four shocks together. I would do the air bags and the front springs together.

[mangomike]

Hi
We did some measurements today ,,,, absolutely nuts
passenger side rear 35 5/8
driver side rear 36 1/8 Not to bad side to side but way higher than I expected
passenger side front 33 3/8
drivers side front 34 1/4 almost a inch difference side to side and almost 3 inches front to back
I guess tankage could account for some of this ,but it seem like too much to be just that
Where we took the measurements was pretty flat and the tires had proper inflation so I'm confused.
I think I would like to figure this out before I go adding shock ect.???????
Any ideas anyone ??????
I took some photos and managed to get them into a album,,, but could not figure out how to link them here ,,, I think if you go to recent albums you will be able to see them
Thanks
michael Roadtrek 210 2008 chevy after 35 years in a tent

[booster]

Originally Posted by mangomike

Hi
We did some measurements today ,,,, absolutely nuts
passenger side rear 35 5/8
driver side rear 36 1/8 Not to bad side to side but way higher than I expected
passenger side front 33 3/8
drivers side front 34 1/4 almost a inch difference side to side and almost 3 inches front to back
I guess tankage could account for some of this ,but it seem like too much to be just that
Where we took the measurements was pretty flat and the tires had proper inflation so I'm confused.
I think I would like to figure this out before I go adding shock ect.???????
Any ideas anyone ??????
I took some photos and managed to get them into a album,,, but could not figure out how to link them here ,,, I think if you go to recent albums you will be able to see them
Thanks
michael Roadtrek 210 2008 chevy after 35 years in a tent

Most of the Chevies sit a bit crooked, but yours is opposite of what we have been normally seeing. They are typically low in the driver rear, high in the passenger front. Most have corrected it with airbags that needed about 20 psi more in the driver side. Bill Erb told me the same thing, that he always had to add more spring to left rear. Ours was low in the left rear, so when I removed the overload leaf, I added a 1" spacer to that side the evened it out and made the airbag pressure the same for level.



I think it would be of interest to check out all the springs front and rear for damage, as it does not seem normal. All this assumes you have normal weight in it like fuel, water, you stuff, etc. You never know what could have happened over the years if you didn't buy it new, as it could have had some suspension damage along the way. The way you are sitting could be caused by either a front or rear issue.


Be sure to let us know if you find anything as it does seem to be a bit different and there may be others out there.

[rowiebowie]

My '2012 Airstream Avenue (Chevy Express 3500) layout is very close to Roadtrek 190P, but with galley and bath flipped to opposite sides. It sits 34" front and 35" rear with less than 1/4" variation. Like the previous poster, tires are properly inflated to 60psi front/80psi rear.

I'm unloaded except for 3/4 fresh water tank fill. It's tanks sit mid-ship on passenger outside edge.

[mangomike]

Yes, checking everything first sounds right.
Seeing it is a Chevy at heart ,do you think I should go to a chevy place. Or, do you think I would be better off at a suspension shop. I've yet to find a well reviewed suspension shop near me.
We are located in southwest Florida , the land of RVs, so there should be some shops around ,I just have not found one.
I posted on the main board looking for shops but no luck yet. Any thought
Thanks
Michael

[booster]

Originally Posted by mangomike

Yes, checking everything first sounds right.
Seeing it is a Chevy at heart ,do you think I should go to a chevy place. Or, do you think I would be better off at a suspension shop. I've yet to find a well reviewed suspension shop near me.
We are located in southwest Florida , the land of RVs, so there should be some shops around ,I just have not found one.
I posted on the main board looking for shops but no luck yet. Any thought
Thanks
Michael

I would look for a light truck shop that has a good reputation for suspension work. Depending on the part of the country, there were lots of Chevy commercial vans sold, so it likely there will someone around that has good experience with them.

[Sehc]

15 years old. How do the upper control arm bushings and the strut rod bushings look? Those are the most overlooked part because the technicians don't like the hard work to replace.

[mangomike]

I had an interesting discussion with "Chevy guy" yesterday
it seems like in the discussion we(and from everything I've read here) pretty much decided that roadtrek gone on the cheap and not upgraded the suspension.
So at the end of a long discussion his question was ,,,,, I I simply didn't replace the springs front and back ,,,, the Chevy 1 ton or heavy duty OEM equipment. Rather than going the airbag, sway bar route. I guess that's basically what folks have been doing when putting in better Springs and shocks. But is there such a thing as a one ton Chevy express? I have found 4500 but it doesn't seem to have come in the express. I'm just thinking that OEM might be easier if they're still available. What do you think?
going to a suspension shop on Thursday for a diagnostic look.
Thanks for everyone's help
m

[markopolo]

Several forum members have replaced the front springs. Most or even all have gone with longer and heavier duty coils as far as I recall.

Rear air bags give you adjustability and comfort. You can get the van leveled out by adjusting air bag pressure. Rear air bags can also be an economical way to deal with the rear.