Shock Absorber Installation

[gklugie]

I installed new Monroes today on my 2000 RT Dodge 350. ( Rear only. I will do fronts next weekend since it is 100 degrees now in Dallas Texas.) Job took about 2 hours ( I am an amateur). I backed up the van on to a pair of ramps and worked on my back in my driveway. No jack needed. I only needed a 3/4" wrench AND a 3/4" socket on a breaker bar. I have not driven it yet... waiting until the job is complete. ...... did I mention it is HOT here?

[mkguitar]

I did mine a little while ago- in PHX

get up early and a little trickle hose dampening the pavement will cool the air through evaporation if the dew point is low- or if you can arrange a mist of water into the air nearby.

my fronts of the chev were way easy- wheels left in place

I detail the bilsteins onto chev 3500 in a thread from a month or so ago

Mike

[gklugie]

I tried to install my front Monroe shocks today. Bah. I could not get the nut off the upper threaded shaft. The shaft spun no matter how I tried to hold it (double "d" shock socket, vice grips, etc.) Got a bit P.O.-d .....then I took the rig to a mechanic. He installed them for $75.

Wow. The 17 year Roadtrek rides nice now. No porpoising ! (I suspect it had the original shocks with 115,000 miles on them)

I am rewarding myself tonight with a cold Stella Artois.

[dvrdwn]

I need to replace my 2002 dodge 3500 coach house shocks too. do you have the part number or link so I can order them?

[gklugie]

I got mine at Rockauto.com

Monroe "increased handling/performance" category.

rear 911091 $34.79
front 911096 $36.79

Rears were easy to do. Just back up on ramps and get from uderneath. No need to remove wheels. There was a thick plastic protector flap attached to driver side frame in the way. But removing 3 screws gave me room to reach under it to reach shock bolt. Fronts were tough for me. I could not get the top nut off the threaded shaft.

good luck.

[booster]

Originally Posted by gklugie

I got mine at Rockauto.com

Monroe "increased handling/performance" category.

rear 911091 $34.79
front 911096 $36.79

Rears were easy to do. Just back up on ramps and get from uderneath. No need to remove wheels. There was a thick plastic protector flap attached to driver side frame in the way. But removing 3 screws gave me room to reach under it to reach shock bolt. Fronts were tough for me. I could not get the top nut off the threaded shaft.

good luck.

If they are the type that have the shock rod itself through the bushings, the can be tough because they can spin in the shock. If I can't get them off because of stuck nuts, I usually just cut the shaft off with a 3" X .03" cut off wheel on a 90* air grinder, either just below the nut if I can get at it, or just under the bushing (bust off any plastic cover there). Sometimes, if you cut below the bushing it will be too long to get out the top, so you have to push it up and cut it again, but that is not normally the case

[gklugie]

Good advice booster.
The area available to work on my front shocks is very confined. No room to get a cutting wheel in there.

You are correct about the rod spinning in the shock. I was thinking about getting a nut splitter, but it would not fit in the area.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

I did mine a little while ago- in PHX

get up early and a little trickle hose dampening the pavement will cool the air through evaporation if the dew point is low- or if you can arrange a mist of water into the air nearby.
....

The overnight low in our Houston garage reached a brisk 87 degrees last night. Dew point remains north of 77 degrees. I know this because we cool the house to 77, and when I put on my glasses to take the dog out to pee at 10 p.m., they fog up.

We hear what Dallas is saying. We spent yesterday chopping metal and welding outdoors, at around 100 degrees. Only the love of a good Class B project can outweigh this sheer agony and insanity.

[booster]

Originally Posted by gklugie

Good advice booster.
The area available to work on my front shocks is very confined. No room to get a cutting wheel in there.

You are correct about the rod spinning in the shock. I was thinking about getting a nut splitter, but it would not fit in the area.

Not even for one of these with a small .030" thick wheel on it. Worst case I would think you could tilt and cut the nut. You could also put a stone on it so it would be the size of a ratchet. If not, it is really tight.

https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneum.../dp/B0002SRORM

[gklugie]

The thin wheel itself s not the problem. The space for the air grinder/handle is the problem.

[lejeep]

So it's been a year since your install. Can you give an update on how the shocks are holding up ?
Trying to decide if I go with the Munroes, KYB or Bilstein.
Thanks for your input.

[gklugie]

Shocks perform pretty well. I am pleased with the Monroes. If I had enough money, I may have gone for the Bilsteins. I suspect they are a bit stiffer.

[lejeep]

gklugie,
Just about to order Munroes for my pop 190. Do you remember why you went with the (increased performance/handling) type instead of the (heavy duty) ones shown on Rock auto? The former seems to be constructed more for a lighter duty van than what we have. The latter would look to be stiffer like you wished.
Also, I forgot to ask you if you only replaced the shocks or did you replace coil springs in the front and whatever on the rear.
Your help is greatly appreciated and I am sure lots of people are trying to upgrade this poor original suspension on their rigs.
Regards
Daniel

[gklugie]

I replaced shocks only. No springs. If I had to do it again I would go stiffer.