Roadtrek 190 Chevy 6.0 overheating?

[Hammernine]

My 2003 Roadtrek 200 runs about 210 but in Arizona it can get much hotter especially on steep hills. It is a big vehicle so I just slow down to keep the temp close to the middle. Depending on what you have in your Class B it is a heavy vehicle. Many of the heavier vehicles have 6 or 10 speed transmissions which help a lot. On a flat road even in 115 degree temperatures it runs fine. I think the transmission really pushes the temperature when going up hills.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Hammernine

My 2003 Roadtrek 200 runs about 210 but in Arizona it can get much hotter especially on steep hills. It is a big vehicle so I just slow down to keep the temp close to the middle. Depending on what you have in your Class B it is a heavy vehicle. Many of the heavier vehicles have 6 or 10 speed transmissions which help a lot. On a flat road even in 115 degree temperatures it runs fine. I think the transmission really pushes the temperature when going up hills.

Yes, all true, especially that the trans is a big cause of the heat buildup.


It may be a good idea to go to the links I posted and find the transmission shifting and torque converter lockup speeds for each of the gears. If you are able to keep the rpm above those lockup points, your heat problems will likely be reduced by a huge amount. Downshifting, even if the higher gear is pulling OK is necessary, as the rpms needed for lockup are quite high. I think like 3500 or more in second gear IIRC. I reprogrammed the lockup and shift speeds to address that issue and have been very happy with the changes. The changes are posted in the links also.

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by Hammernine

My 2003 Roadtrek 200 runs about 210 but in Arizona it can get much hotter especially on steep hills. It is a big vehicle so I just slow down to keep the temp close to the middle. Depending on what you have in your Class B it is a heavy vehicle. Many of the heavier vehicles have 6 or 10 speed transmissions which help a lot. On a flat road even in 115 degree temperatures it runs fine. I think the transmission really pushes the temperature when going up hills.

I have a 2000 200 with the 5.7, original radiator. I've run in temps up to 110 have not seen temps that high on relatively flat land, assuming no crazy side winds. This is going down the road with a cargo trailer, total vehicle/trailer weight at 11k lbs.

In the past i did have a build up of heat. The fan clutch was not engaging when the temps climbed. A new severe duty fan clutch has helped a lot, though climbing grades will still build trans heat, just not as fast.

[Kon]

Thanks again for everyone's tips.
It sounds like the bottom line is to cool down the transmission temps. And the best way is to bring it to a mechanics shop for that.
Anyone know approximately how much that would cost ? in Southern California area ?

[wny-pat]

Originally Posted by Kon

Thanks again for everyone's tips.
It sounds like the bottom line is to cool down the transmission temps. And the best way is to bring it to a mechanics shop for that.
Anyone know approximately how much that would cost ? in Southern California area ?

I take it that it is the Chevy chassis. If it isn't a Chevy stop reading right here!!! Find a independent shop that specializes in Chevy trucks. Make sure they can lift your 10,000 lb vehicle. Have them install Dexron VI along with a transmission filter. Dexron VI is a synthetic fluid. It can handle the heat. Following is a list of Dexron VI GM approved License Holders:
https://www.drive2.com/b/501010341333828015/
All these products meet GM's requirements for Dexron VI!! I run Wolf's Head Dexron VI Synthetic ATF. My personal preference would be Shaeffer's 205A Dexron® VI/Mercon® Automatic Transmission Fluid, but it is very hard to source where I live.

[Kon]

Anyone have any experience with a Mag Hytec transmission oil pan?
I heard it can lower the temps too, being aluminum and vented ..
but it also seems like a possible issue with the Roadtrek sitting pretty low .

[booster]

Originally Posted by Kon

Anyone have any experience with a Mag Hytec transmission oil pan?
I heard it can lower the temps too, being aluminum and vented ..
but it also seems like a possible issue with the Roadtrek sitting pretty low .

Many of the deep pans won't clear the exhaust and other things under the vans, so that probably would need to be looked at.


Finned and other "cooling" pans really don't seem to help much from all I have been able to find on them. I looked at a lot of reviews and tests of them when I was working on the cooling stuff. For the amount of heat we are talking about, I think it would be a tiny bit of what is needed.


The biggest thing you probably gain with them is that you get a drain plug, making fluid changes easier, but you can also add a drain to the existing steel pan. I did ours right after we got the van and it makes all the mess go away for trans oil changes, (no filter change) or even if you are doing a filter you can get the fluid out of the pan before trying to lower it (spilling most it most of the time).

[JohnnyFry]

You are in the normal range. Bear in mind that the system is pressurized at 33 PSIA (15PSI above atmospheric pressure) At this pressure water boils at 256°F

[booster]

Originally Posted by JohnnyFry

You are in the normal range. Bear in mind that the system is pressurized at 33 PSIA (15PSI above atmospheric pressure) At this pressure water boils at 256°F

You said that earlier also, and I can tell you for certain there are going to be areas inside the engine at the water passages that exceed that. That is why the head and head gaskets have "steam holes" in them. The steam has to get back to the radiator and overflow tank so it can get out of the system. If not the cooling system will vapor lock in steam pockets an usually get some kind of failure, like head gaskets. Also remember that there are aluminum heads on a an iron block, so the coefficient of thermal expansion is much higher on the heads, causing them to move in relation to the block, also accelerating head gasket issues. To me, anything over about 220* to 225* is too hot, depending on where it is measured, and at very little hotter than that, the Chevies max out the radiator and temps climb very, very quickly until it goes into transmission overheat mode which will lock the torque converter and cut power and pretty much stop you if you going up a steep hill.

[Sensfan]

The five year old engine coolant is getting swapped out of my 2012 RT Chevy 6.0 litre gas motor. I came across an engine coolant advertisement (not the manufacturer's) claiming that their product reduces operating temperature by as much as 20 percent. Is there any truth to this?

[Sensfan]

Correction to my Today, 03:09 PM message ... 20 degrees not 20 percent

[booster]

Originally Posted by Sensfan

The five year old engine coolant is getting swapped out of my 2012 RT Chevy 6.0 litre gas motor. I came across an engine coolant advertisement (not the manufacturer's) claiming that their product reduces operating temperature by as much as 20 percent. Is there any truth to this?

What is the product claiming this? Most of the cooling improvement fluids are pretty much snake oil, as far as I have ever found out or tested, and I have tried quite a few over the decades.

[Sensfan]

There are some online reviews saying that the engine temps lowered with R.P.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Sensfan

There are some online reviews saying that the engine temps lowered with R.P.

I assume that is Royal Purple and they are using something very similar to Water Wetter, AFAIK. Basically a surface tension reducer. I have tried several and never seen any benefit from any of them, and there always are reviews raving about how great they are for all the brands.

[Sensfan]

Originally Posted by booster

I assume that is Royal Purple and they are using something very similar to Water Wetter, AFAIK. Basically a surface tension reducer. I have tried several and never seen any benefit from any of them, and there always are reviews raving about how great they are for all the brands.

Thanks Booster

[booster]

Originally Posted by Sensfan

Thanks Booster

You have a 2012 so would have the 6 speed transmission and we just don't hear about those overheating the transmission or the water like the 4 speed versions do. I doubt you will ever have and issue unless the water pump or fan clutch fail or the radiator get blocked or plugged up. Good to get the coolant changed regularly, like every 3 years or so, especially with Dexcool.

[mkguitar]

Originally Posted by Sensfan

The five year old engine coolant is getting swapped out of my 2012 RT Chevy 6.0 litre gas motor.

I live in AZ. My Pleasureway has a dual fan kit on the radiator ( I don't know if it is GM or PW or previous owner installed).


Temperatures are not much of an issue.
Tranny temps are always within bounds, the engine temp will occassionally go up to 230 or so but is usually at 210 ish. The fan kit comes on at 220 and seems to run to 195 then shuts off.


For my flush and re-fill I use the gm dexcool and distilled water * in the recommended ratio.
5 years seems about right for a service interval



This approach works great in AZ and high temps- can;t comment on cold weather operation


*the water is harvested from my air conditioner condensate. during monsoon season my house ac produces about 10 gallons a day

[booster]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

I live in AZ. My Pleasureway has a dual fan kit on the radiator ( I don't know if it is GM or PW or previous owner installed).


Temperatures are not much of an issue.
Tranny temps are always within bounds, the engine temp will occassionally go up to 230 or so but is usually at 210 ish. The fan kit comes on at 220 and seems to run to 195 then shuts off.


For my flush and re-fill I use the gm dexcool and distilled water * in the recommended ratio.
5 years seems about right for a service interval



This approach works great in AZ and high temps- can;t comment on cold weather operation


*the water is harvested from my air conditioner condensate. during monsoon season my house ac produces about 10 gallons a day

Be aware that condensate water is not true distilled water, it is condensate water that will have all the dirt, pathogens, and whatever else is in the air that it came from in it. It also condenses over aluminum, maybe copper or some form of furnace brazing alloy, so it can have metallic ions in it.


If is contaminated enough to not be OK for Dexcool in a radiator, I have no clue on that, but it is not as clean or ion free as distilled water.