Piece Meal Rack for Yaks and Bikes

[Shore-T]

I refuse to pay almost $1,500.00 for a rack to carry my yak and bike. Sooooo I decided to make my own from components from trusty old Harbor Freight and on hand items. I already had the aluminum cargo basket (https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb...ier-92655.html maybe ~$90.00) and dual hitch extender (https://www.harborfreight.com/dual-h...der-69881.html maybe ~$30.00) so all I needed to add was a pick up truck bed extender (https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-...der-69650.html) for around $70.00. Now all I need to do is figure out a way to add my bike as well? Any ideas you may have are welcomed. Mind you I am not speaking ill of any of the aftermarket solutions, it’s just that the price that comes with those is way too much ham for my two eggs… Overall height clearance of my rig increased to 10’ 4” with the yak mounted from a base of 9’ height. I am not proffering that this solution set is the be all, do all for everyone… However for under $250.00 I have satisfied my requirements. That’s almost a $1,250.00 delta… Your comments and opinions are welcomed.

Sorry for the jpeg orientation...

[Eraygunz]

Nice.
I am the same way!
I don't buy nothing,do it all my self.
Do you weld? If so.
Get a piece of flat bar. Weld it to the rear of the basket.
Add a cross bar ,and whatever works to hang your particular bike on.
My yak is 14 foot,so I am kinda stuff with using the roof.
Nice too,that you have room to carry extra gear back there.
Cheers
Eddie

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by Eraygunz

Nice.
I am the same way!
I don't buy nothing,do it all my self.
Do you weld? If so.
Get a piece of flat bar. Weld it to the rear of the basket.
Add a cross bar ,and whatever works to hang your particular bike on.
My yak is 14 foot,so I am kinda stuff with using the roof.
Nice too,that you have room to carry extra gear back there.
Cheers
Eddie

I wish I did weld... I missed that class in shop! I just got back from a little spin on I-65 and my chase car reported that she observed a bit of wobbling from the receiver hitch as I switched lanes and turned corners. I plan on tapping in some aluminum shims into the receiver to see if it helps. I have tried those bolt on contraptions that claim to stop wobbling, but I never had much luck with them. I think by the time I crack the bike mounting solution and pack in the extra external storage spaces with fire wood, etc... the wobble will be manageable, anyway I hope it will. BTW I did not feel anything on the front end as I was doing 60 MPH. Anyway it's a work in progress and I'm still a BOAT load of money ahead! Thanks for the encouragement and idea about the bike mount. Best always. Shorty (aka Shore-T) sends...

[mkguitar]

similar here.

I have strapped to spare tire and the stern sits in a "modified" plastic crate (think milk crate- but larger) U bolted to a Harbor freight rack.

this also allows easy opening of pass side rear door

mike

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

similar here.

I have strapped to spare tire and the stern sits in a "modified" plastic crate (think milk crate- but larger) U bolted to a Harbor freight rack.

this also allows easy opening of pass side rear door

mike

Hi Mike, could ya post a picture of that set up? I really feel I am on the edge of bustin this set up out! I have a rectangular milk crate that if properly trimmed e.g. cut, could be the base of the kayak when mounted on the HF rack. Then I could run a horizontal PVC piece with cut outs for the front and rear tire across the HF rack... strap it down fore and aft and viola... just thinking out loud. Best. Shorty (aka Shore-T) sends...

[gklugie]

Good idea. Make sure you secure it well.... air pressure at road speed can do funny things to large "aileron-like" objects. Also it is acting like a parachute, and will probably hurt your gas mileage. Give us a report!

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by gklugie

Good idea. Make sure you secure it well.... air pressure at road speed can do funny things to large "aileron-like" objects. Also it is acting like a parachute, and will probably hurt your gas mileage. Give us a report!

Yea thanks. I wanted to mount it reversed, with the bottom of the yak against the horizontal mounting rack but the horizontal straps would flatten/bend the bottom of the yak. I agree that the air flow is a concern but one that can be mitigated. I rarely travel more than 60 MPH. Thanks for your comments and observations. Best. Shorty (aka Shore-T) sends...

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by Shore-T

I wish I did weld... ....my chase car reported that she observed a bit of wobbling from the receiver hitch as I switched lanes and turned corners. I plan on tapping in some aluminum shims into the receiver to see if it helps. I have tried those bolt on contraptions that claim to stop wobbling, but I never had much luck with them. ....

My husband took one of those "adult education" / weekender classes and learned to weld that way. I think it was two 8-hour sessions, for not much money. If you are serious about DIY, a Miller welding set-up will pay for itself in just a few nice projects, believe it or not. Relative to what you'd pay retail for the same outcomes, I mean.

As for the wobbling, we've had good luck with the Stowaway hitch stabilizer (although we don't necessarily like any of Stowaway's other products). The one thing I'd caution about is galling. It needs to be racked down pretty tightly to do its job, and one of our nuts ended up frozen and we had to break it off. There's some kind of additive you can put on the bolt threads to prevent that from happening, which we did with the replacement hardware.

[mkguitar]

I'm on tour with the band- won;t be home for a month.
Sorry no pics.

I removed the cover from my spare and have an eye bolt I can strap to

Mike

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

I'm on tour with the band- won;t be home for a month.
Sorry no pics.

I removed the cover from my spare and have an eye bolt I can strap to

Mike

ROCK ON!!

Best. Shorty (aka Shore-T) sends...

[Shore-T]

Here's where I'm at with this project. The end result is clear in my foggy mind... Thanks to all who provided guidance/advice/suggestions. In a perfect world I would like to find a cradle for lack of a better word that would allow me to mount the kayak with the bottom facing forward though... I think that would give me better air flow. Unfortunately I cannot mount it that way now as when I tie down the horizontal strap securely, it causes the bottom of the boat to sort of "cave in" where it comes in contact with the horizontal support. I have attempted to put a piece of pool noodle on the top horizontal support, but still no joy. Anyway I think the current config will work for now as some of the air flow will be reduced by the MAXXAir vent cover. Like I said it's a work in progress.

So far, runs on I-65 at highway speeds of 60 - 65 MPH have proven successful in reducing wobbling.

Thanks again. Best to all. Shorty (aka Shore-T) sends...
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[BBQ]

.

I know one guy who built his own rack.

He bought an aluminum storm door ($5 garage sale),
and used it as the frame.
He bought some hardware mounting brackets.

Total cost less than $20.

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by BBQ

.

I know one guy who built his own rack.

He bought an aluminum storm door ($5 garage sale),
and used it as the frame.
He bought some hardware mounting brackets.

Total cost less than $20.

BBQ I'm not that low full into this project but I just have an issue paying $1,200 - $1,500 for a rack. I think I'll be able to bring it home for at/or under $300. However, now that I got that cradle idea into my head it may bump my cost up a bit but surely not into the thousand dollar mark. Besides, my wife say's that it keeps me busy, in the garage and out of her hair! You could say it's a win win for everyone involved!

[booster]

A lot of the carriers I have seen for "crushable" items like a kayak or other lightweight boats, etc, used a simple block of the pink foam insulation cut to the shape of the item and then attached to whatever shape the carrier was with a ratchet strap around the boat and carrier. 2" pieces can be glued together for the right thickness, and it can be cut with an electric carving knife, usually pretty easily. The UV will get to it so it would need periodic replacing, but you can slow it down by covering it with the aluminum duct tape

[PinIN]

another example

https://vancave.files.wordpress.com/...1/img_0955.jpg

source,
https://vancave.wordpress.com/cargo-...miscellaneous/

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by PinIN

another example

https://vancave.files.wordpress.com/...1/img_0955.jpg

source,
https://vancave.wordpress.com/cargo-...miscellaneous/

You are correct! Thanks!

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by booster

A lot of the carriers I have seen for "crushable" items like a kayak or other lightweight boats, etc, used a simple block of the pink foam insulation cut to the shape of the item and then attached to whatever shape the carrier was with a ratchet strap around the boat and carrier. 2" pieces can be glued together for the right thickness, and it can be cut with an electric carving knife, usually pretty easily. The UV will get to it so it would need periodic replacing, but you can slow it down by covering it with the aluminum duct tape

Roger Sir. Copy all. Best. Shorty (aka Shore-T) sends...

[Shore-T]

Well she's finally, well almost done! I finished my home made kayak carrier and so far she is holding up. The final piece were two Kayak cradles purchased on line. Those cradles facilitate the kayak being mounted with the bottom of the kayak facing forward and serves as a spoiler vice mounting it with the top of the kayak forward which acted as an anchor. I have been driving around locally and on the interstate with no issue. Minimum clearance of 192 inches or 16 feet clearance is required with kayak mounted. Items required to build your own: (regular price/sale price)

1. Truck Bed Extender from Harbor Freight item # 69650 ($114.95/$69.99)
2. Hitch mounted Cargo rack from Harbor Freight Item # 69688 ($179.99/$79.00)
3. Double Hitch Extender from Harbor Freight Item # 69881 ($54.95/$29.99)
4. Tie Down Straps from Harbor Freight item # 61303 ($28.38/$19.99)
5. Kayak Cradles from LT Sport | USA (626-965-8813 Suzane) part number ZZ-99: KR-264-248-WS ($49.00) with free shipping for four individual cradles.
6. Tie Down Straps from Harbor Freight item # 61303 ($28.38/$19.99)
7. Assorted nuts and bolts. You will need to replace ALL item # 5 hardware with 4 ea M8 1.125 X 4” carriage bolts, washers, lock washers, and lock nuts. (For each set of two cradles). Note. Ensure that the cradles will fit Item # 1 which is 2 ¼” X 2 ¼”.

The bottom of the yak is secured to a rectangular milk crate which is secured to the cargo rack with u bolts. I think I have covered all directions of movement with the web strapping.

All in at under $300.00 vice $1,500.00 for commercial model. I do have some post production product improvements to do but for the most part it is secure, functional and cost effective! BTW I have one set of cradles for sale at half price plus shipping to your location.

The attached images depict the front view with yak mounted, the cradles mounted on the T-Bar and the base.

Now off, to figure out how to add space for a bicycle...

[Eraygunz]

Hi
What state are you in?
In Florida the max height is 14 foot.
And I see lines and things all the time that look lower than that.
Especially out here in the boonies where I live
Leaves me with very few options for carrying my 14 foot fishing Yak.
Either up top or on the side.
Kinda wish I had chose the 12 footer.
Good luck,and happy travels.
Eddie

[Shore-T]

Originally Posted by Eraygunz

Hi
What state are you in?
In Florida the max height is 14 foot.
And I see lines and things all the time that look lower than that.
Especially out here in the boonies where I live
Leaves me with very few options for carrying my 14 foot fishing Yak.
Either up top or on the side.
Kinda wish I had chose the 12 footer.
Good luck,and happy travels.
Eddie

Back to the drawing board!!!