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07-20-2021, 02:52 PM
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#21
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: NY
Posts: 398
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Just to follow up on the thread: I received the 1-1/4" p-trap from mscdirect, but it was shaped a bit differently than the original one (see pic). It could have been made to work, I think, but it would have required cutting off pipes and repositioning things in the rest of the plumbing.
So instead, I cut the hub off the broken p-trap, but left the 1-1/4" pipe in place. I bought the 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" bushing from mscdirect and a 1-1/2" hub x fpt swivel connector from amazon and fit it together without completing seating either so that it was the same length as the original. I did not use any sealant because the new swivel connector included a gasket, and I used a large rubber o-ring on the other end. It seems to work fine, but it might not hold up because the connections are not well seated.
This in not an easy job in the Roadtrek 170 because there there is barely enough room for the parts to fit in between the gas tank and the drive shaft!
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09-30-2021, 01:23 AM
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#22
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Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 85
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Great thread!
So glad to have found this thread! Thanks so much for the info. I'm dealing with this p-trap on my 98C200V right now. Lowe's had nothing! lol
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10-01-2021, 01:54 AM
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#23
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 246
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I had to repair mine several years ago. I used the same method of a rubber coupling as nothing else available fit.
The sad thing is it was caused by a misalignment of the OE pipes from the factory putting stress on the pipe that breaks eventually.
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10-10-2021, 02:43 AM
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#24
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Gold Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 85
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Here's what I ended up with from H. Depot. Very similar, without the fernco.
1) 1/1/2" Female adapter S x FTP
2) 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" Bushing
I cut the old Ptrap, leaving the 1/2" piece of 1/4 tube and will just glue the bushing to it. Same length as before. Cost: $3.25
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10-10-2021, 01:38 PM
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#25
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: NY
Posts: 398
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This is similar to what I did -- but I got a swivel adapter so I could screw in after gluing. I don't think that there would be enough space in the RT 170 to remove it (if needed in the future) otherwise. Also, I got ABS rather than PVC. I don't know if there is any difference for this application.
Anyway, I am glad you were able to get it fixed!
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03-09-2023, 02:14 PM
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#26
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Ontario
Posts: 1
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10c190p here. We have the shower p trap issue as well. My husband,, although not handy, has spent hours underneath the van until we finally gave up and screwed a cap on the one end and put the plug in the shower drain. We don't use the shower but the shower p trap leaked whenever we used the sink... Unless we parked with the rear higher than the van. Did you all do these repairs without a hoist? Is there any problem re winterizing or anything else for just leaving it like this?
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03-09-2023, 03:29 PM
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#27
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Bronze Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: California
Posts: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10c190p
10c190p here. We have the shower p trap issue as well. My husband,, although not handy, has spent hours underneath the van until we finally gave up and screwed a cap on the one end and put the plug in the shower drain. We don't use the shower but the shower p trap leaked whenever we used the sink... Unless we parked with the rear higher than the van. Did you all do these repairs without a hoist? Is there any problem re winterizing or anything else for just leaving it like this?
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I didn't need a lift because the older vans have a lot more ground clearance. I've never needed to winterize (one advantage of living in California), but from what you described I think you can winterize like normal. Cheers!
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03-09-2023, 05:40 PM
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#28
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: NY
Posts: 398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10c190p
10c190p here. We have the shower p trap issue as well. My husband,, although not handy, has spent hours underneath the van until we finally gave up and screwed a cap on the one end and put the plug in the shower drain. We don't use the shower but the shower p trap leaked whenever we used the sink... Unless we parked with the rear higher than the van. Did you all do these repairs without a hoist? Is there any problem re winterizing or anything else for just leaving it like this?
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It's been a while since I looked at this, so I do not recall how it is all connected, but I am not sure that leaving it plugged up is a good idea because water will just sit there and never drain. And, as you say, that water could freeze and burst the pipe because you don't have any way to drain it or get enough RV antifreeze in there. If you could rig some way to drain it, it might be better.
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