K’s Roadtrek 200 V restore - Purchase day

[KaptainK]

This is my first post in a series about restoring my 1997 Roadtrek 200 Versatile, purchased Aug/2020.
I’ll start from the top.
One morning, while minding my own business, reading Facebook marketplace, I came upon an ad for a Roadtrek for sale. It said:
“1997 Roadtrek 200 Versatile.
Needs brakes and exhaust.
Give away price- $4,500”

I’ve had a class C and have built a few simple camper vans. My GMC Savana conversion van/camper van has been my favorite. If we just had a bit more room I always said.

Salivating over that price, I responded immediately, but didn’t hear back after 24 hours. I was really surprised when the guy called me later the next day.
Turns out, he was only 5 mins. away and 80 years old and could meet me ‘whenever’.

I showed up with earnest $ and the assumption that, if it ran, I’d probably be taking it home!
So, it started up and idled fine. Loud as hell with not much of an exhaust, and no brakes for a test drive.
Every question I asked was met with an answer of “Oh I don’t know if that works, we never used it”. Each time I assumed that meant, no it doesn’t work. No house battery, so I couldn’t try anything out!
I didn’t get much help from the guy, and just had to go with my gut.

Then I noticed the odometer. 292,000 miles! Well G, that wasn’t in the ad! I couldn’t get past the price and figured, “what’s a new crate 5.7L cost, $3k or less? Big deal!”

Of course, I bit the bullet and brought the guy cash within the hour. I called AAA and had them give me a free flatbed tow home with my membership. Gotta love that! The next post will be about what I found upon closer inspection.

[mkguitar]

Hey KK,
if you have time and know- there is another member looking for info on the battery separator on that model:


https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post117892

[KaptainK]

Here's what I found upon a rough inspection.

*Shore power works. Runs lights and ac appliances.
*Rear AC blows hot air
*There is no propane tank.
*Water heater looks rotten
*Assume furnace may not work either.
*Fridge won't run on AC or DC. I can't try the LP.
*Water damage looks extensive on the walls, from the AC hatch in the rear.
*Roof in bedroom is rotted, as well as floorboards under mattress.
*Exhaust fan doesn't work.
*Generator won't crank.
*Water pump doesn't work
*Microwave lights up but won't cook.

The good news is, I didn't like the look of anything in that 23 year old camper and I am excited to change it all out! I'm not too fond of propane tanks and lines in an old camper. I don't want a Microwave, I want an air fryer. I hate the colors, and most of it was old and inefficient anyway.

Here's some of the rotten stuff in the way.

[Theputnams515]

Originally Posted by KaptainK

Here's what I found upon a rough inspection.

*Shore power works. Runs lights and ac appliances.
*Rear AC blows hot air
*There is no propane tank.
*Water heater looks rotten
*Assume furnace may not work either.
*Fridge won't run on AC or DC. I can't try the LP.
*Water damage looks extensive on the walls, from the AC hatch in the rear.
*Roof in bedroom is rotted, as well as floorboards under mattress.
*Exhaust fan doesn't work.
*Generator won't crank.
*Water pump doesn't work
*Microwave lights up but won't cook.

The good news is, I didn't like the look of anything in that 23 year old camper and I am excited to change it all out! I'm not too fond of propane tanks and lines in an old camper. I don't want a Microwave, I want an air fryer. I hate the colors, and most of it was old and inefficient anyway.

Here's some of the rotten stuff in the way.

I will be watching this intently for ideas. Doing many of the same things!

[KaptainK]

I didn’t even know there was a battery in it, until I got underneath the rear end to drop the generator. Only 250 hours on it. Pigtails had been cut, so I popped off the fuel line and undid a few bolts. Lowered it down on a jack. The battery was mounted up under the bumper with a steel bracket around it that you had to remove bolts to get the tiny thing out. I will be relocating that for sure. The generator cranks with 12 V applied to the starter. Fuel pump works when I push the button. It smells like rotten fuel. Did a bunch of research for my 2.8 Microlite, and ordered a new carburetor, fuel filter, spark plug, solenoid. I’ve got it all installed, but it still won’t crank across the solenoid. Either a bad board, or I have it wired incorrectly. Sorry, I don’t know why the photos are sideways.

[KaptainK]

I’ve watched the YouTube videos on replacing the AC in the Roadtrek. Mine was same same, but different. My ceiling sags a bit, so I could not slide it into the camper. I removed the rear grill and roof cover, since it had been leaking for years. The baffles were gone. There was layer upon layer of caulking and silicone and putty and glue and Lord knows what. That took me into a whole ‘nother project.
I used an LG 6000 BTU, as others have used. Wow, this one even has Wi-Fi. It fit like a glove, so most of the work was sealing up the rear area and doing the trim work inside.
I used Flex seal black rubber to seal up the rear AC tray after cleaning. I used fiberglass filler on the top cover and sanded/painted white. Painted the rear grill. Replaced all the Thompson screws. I will likely use putty tape and then Flex seal water seal tape on the seam of the top cover.

[Julia]

Wow! I admire your tenacity and your rebuilding skills and wish you the very best with this amazing project!

[KaptainK]

Test fit of AC cover and grill, after AC install. Still need to build new baffles and wire the rear Lighting. And of course seal up the rear cover.

[Theputnams515]

How are you going to seal up the rear cover? It is a PITA for sure!

I layed a bead of caulk and torques down the well nuts. I hope that does it!

[Theputnams515]

How are you going to seal up the rear cover? It is a PITA for sure!

I layed a bead of caulk and torques down the well nuts. I hope that does it!

[KaptainK]

The mounting holes in several spots on the cover have broken away. I will probably end up using flex seal tape, and I hope I don’t have to get in there for a while. I’m considering making some kind of rain cover for the grill, that I can roll up out of the way when I run the AC

[Theputnams515]

Where did you order the carb from?

I am doing this right now. I also need to replace the battery isolator, I have a thread on that in the General forum.

Are you planning on doing this as well?

[KaptainK]

Carb, solenoid, spark plug, fuel filter all from Amazon. Chinese carb was about $39. I may be able to help you find the correct one for your generator. I was able to find some info on that. My Microlite 2.8 is a series KV, spec F. My battery isolator is under the engine, or next to it, below the battery. Haven’t got there yet, but I may replace it and the old battery cabling.
It has a diode style isolator, metal block with cooling fins. I used a newer style, smart isolator on another camper van.

[Theputnams515]

Kapt that would be great. I will post up the spec number on mine when I get home.

I will need a filter, and new carb and a plug.

Thats my guess.

[KaptainK]

Here's the Onan parts manual for KV,KVC and KVD models!

http://roadtrekking.pbworks.com/f/On...rts+Manual.pdf

[Theputnams515]

How do you know what series or spec the gen is? I have a pic of the tag but see no clear indicator

[KaptainK]

Mine has a tag like this one. Model # is what you need.

[Theputnams515]

Kapt,

I have a G so we use the same carb.

The one you bought functions ok? Might be a nice cheap fix for now.

[KaptainK]

I don’t know yet. Others have reported good luck with them.

[rowiebowie]

When and if you get it running, be sure to test Voltage and Hz before running heavy loads like roof ac. When I bought my class b, the generator was running a bit slow (lower than the prescribed 3600rpm) causing it to generate low voltage which may have contributed to the demise of my roof ac.

Output should be 60Hz and 128v without load. This should keep voltage above 118v under full load.