Dual USB install (Live Broadcast)

[cargovanconversion]

First in a hopefully long series of modifications to my 2016 T250 MR LWB. Replacement of one of the two 12V outlets in the cabin console with a dual USB (1A/2.1A) socket. Makes the use/charge of my tablet/phone/gps easier without the use of additional plufs or cables.
It'll be the first of many Live video broadcasts that I hope to do, to show in great detail the whole process of converting a cargo van into a RV.

cargovanconversion.com/live

Van Williams

[TravelingCOWs]

Since USB is 5V and must be converted down from 12V, is there any current draw when the USB is not in use?

[cargovanconversion]

Originally Posted by TravelingCOWs

Since USB is 5V and must be converted down from 12V, is there any current draw when the USB is not in use?

The 12V outlet which it replaces, is connected to a 10A fuse and is powered up to 30 minutes after the car keys are removed.
I can't answer your question, but since it'll be powered only while driving, it's not really important to me (now).
You bring up an interesting point, which I will research, unless somebody else can answer it, because I will install more of them on my future 'house' battery system, where it may play a bigger role.

Van Williams

[cargovanconversion]

I had some technical difficulties yesterday (Windows 10), but I'll try the video broadcast again today, Monday, January 11, 2016 at 4 PM ET.

You can view it here.

Van Williams

[avanti]

Originally Posted by cargovanconversion

You bring up an interesting point, which I will research, unless somebody else can answer it, because I will install more of them on my future 'house' battery system, where it may play a bigger role.

Any device with active electronics and no air gap HAS to draw some current. These adaptors are electrically equivalent to power bricks, so, yes, there will be a vampire load. Whether it is worth worrying about in this case is a different question.

I installed many of them connected to the coach battery, but I put them all on a switched circuit, so I can shut them down in power-constrained situations when they are not being used. That has been a general rule in designing our electrical system. With the sole exception of the gas detectors and the TriMetric meter, there is NOTHING in our van that draws any idle current whatsoever that cannot be selectively turned off. A nice marine switch panel is a good choice for this.

Control Panel lights.JPG

[cargovanconversion]

Originally Posted by avanti

Any device with active electronics and no air gap HAS to draw some current.
I put them all on a switched circuit, so I can shut them down in power-constrained situations when they are not being used.
Attachment 3115

Correct and correct.

I'll use a switched circuit when I design my electrical system. Sound idea.

Van Williams

[cargovanconversion]

The final LIVE video broadcast went well, except for some sound problems, which I'm working on right now.
The focus was on replacing one of the two 12V outlets in the cabin console of my Ford Transit.

I didn't need many tools, only two sharp and pointy box cutters. The top panel, which contained the socket could be pulled apart fairly easy by hand with a little wiggling.




It's attached to the main console with about seven standard clips.




Besides the T-shaped 12V connector, the area underneath only contained the trailer brake controller, that I had installed as an option. The same space also allows room for the Upfitter switches option.




The tricky part was how to remove the old socket, which is held to the frame with two plastic 'springs'. Forget about those and focus on the metal, inner tube, which is attached with two smaller, but similar 'plastic springs' to the outer, plastic shell. By pulling these pins outward, the inner tube is released and subsequently the outer plastic shell can be taken out of the panel.
The only adaption I had to make, was a short extension wire with spade connectors, to connect the T-shape connector to the parallel prongs on the new Dual USB charger.




This could be a 10-minute job and suitable for most DIY'ers.

In the coming days, I will write up a more detailed article with more images on the website and will publish a real detailed step-by-step guide with all the videos, images, tools and other resources to download for those who are interested.


You can watch the full video here!


This was a great experience and I learned a lot to make the next LIVE video broadcast even better. That will be the installation of a parking sensor in my rear bumper. Follow my website for updates or subscribe to be automatically notified of the next broadcast.

[Davydd]

Bad, bad, bad!

You might find this a rather interesting article.

Using car USB ports to charge phones cuts mpg, adds to CO2, ex-GM exec says

[cargovanconversion]

Originally Posted by Davydd

Bad, bad, bad!

You might find this a rather interesting article.

Using car USB ports to charge phones cuts mpg, adds to CO2, ex-GM exec says

It's typically one of these articles, that tells you how good or bad you are and they can prove it with their numbers. Despite that, I generally agree with its content.
Practically it makes no difference to me, whether I can drive 0.5 mile more or less on one tank of gas. Specifically I NEVER use a phone while driving, which is a much bigger problem.
Unfortunately, most of us are persuaded to use more and more technology, wherever we are. That includes the car. I think however, that only a few gadgets are useful while driving, while most contribute to distraction.
I do like my backup camera and use a GPS on long trips. The latter will be plugged into this USB and will probably save me a few gallons of gas.

No matter what, I'm still a bad boy!

[Davydd]

The Sprinter has the cigarette lighter port that is live only when the key is on. They also have another 12V port that is live all the time. In addition, off our after market in-dash Pioneer navigation receiver we have two USB ports. The USB are live only when the key is on. Throughout the B we have a total of 8 additional USB ports but they come off the house batteries.

Most of the time I have my iPhone 6+ plugged in for Internet radio or to play iTunes music in one of the Pioneer USB ports while driving. We might also be charging another iPhone at the same time.

[cargovanconversion]

Originally Posted by Davydd

The Sprinter has the cigarette lighter port that is live only when the key is on. They also have another 12V port that is live all the time. In addition, off our after market in-dash Pioneer navigation receiver we have two USB ports. The USB are live only when the key is on. Throughout the B we have a total of 8 additional USB ports but they come off the house batteries.

Most of the time I have my iPhone 6+ plugged in for Internet radio or to play iTunes music in one of the Pioneer USB ports while driving. We might also be charging another iPhone at the same time.

The 2016 Ford Transit has those 12V outlets also connected to the car key slot. They only work while driving and up to 30 minutes after parking. Then they automatically switch off. In general it's not wise to put an extra load on your car battery and I, like you, will do most charging off of outlets that are connected to the house battery.

My attitude is, a car is for driving and not much else!

Van Williams

[TravelingCOWs]

Originally Posted by avanti

Any device with active electronics and no air gap HAS to draw some current. These adaptors are electrically equivalent to power bricks, so, yes, there will be a vampire load. Whether it is worth worrying about in this case is a different question.

Originally Posted by cargovanconversion

Correct and correct.

Thanks for the confirmation.

I'm planning to pepper our van with 12V ports off the house batteries to increase flexibility (plug in USB, 12V appliance, or small inverter as needed where needed) and reduce vampire loads.

[WJones]

Originally Posted by TravelingCOWs

Thanks for the confirmation.

I'm planning to pepper our van with 12V ports off the house batteries to increase flexibility (plug in USB, 12V appliance, or small inverter as needed where needed) and reduce vampire loads.

I imagine you're aware that you can get the double ports, where you've got a 12V port on the left and a double USB port on the right. I'll be installing one of those shortly. The hard wired USB port avoids the possibility of a poor contact if the USB adapter isn't fully inserted in the 12V port. You can even get triple ports where the third is a voltmeter.

[WJones]

My previous post concerning double ports only applies when you're adding it somewhere and there is room for two of them side by side. It would probably not work when replacing a single 12V port with USB ports as the OP is doing.

[cargovanconversion]

Originally Posted by WJones

My previous post concerning double ports only applies when you're adding it somewhere and there is room for two of them side by side. It would probably not work when replacing a single 12V port with USB ports as the OP is doing.

These types of ports are great to use where necessary, in the living area of the van.

Van Williams

[avanti]

Even though I love having a large inverter when we need it, I am a big believer in having everything possible running native 12VDC. In addition to lots of USB ports, all of our telecom equipment (router, powered antennas etc) are 12 volt. I even modified our AppleTV to run at 12V. We turn on the inverter only when using the microwave, Keurig, and the occasional hair implement.

BTW: For Macbook users, here is a very nice solution to DC charging:

DC Mac.jpg

We have two of them hardwired at laptop-friendly locations. No inverter for laptop charging and two extra USB ports each.

[cargovanconversion]

Originally Posted by avanti

Even though I love having a large inverter when we need it, I am a big believer in having everything possible running native 12VDC. In addition to lots of USB ports, all of our telecom equipment (router, powered antennas etc) are 12 volt. I even modified our AppleTV to run at 12V. We turn on the inverter only when using the microwave, Keurig, and the occasional hair implement.

We have two of them hardwired at laptop-friendly locations. No inverter for laptop charging and two extra USB ports each.

I think you're saying something quite important. Lots of electronics have low voltage components, that shouldn't require a 110V input. You can take advantage of that in your RV, as I will with a Intel NUC 12v built-in computer. Similar to yours.

Van Williams

[avanti]

BTW: eBay and Amazon are full of incredibly cheap DC-DC converter modules that make it very easy to convert 12VDC to most any other voltage. So, if you have a device that has a power brick that outputs some random voltage, it is extremely easy to adapt it to 12V. Just make sure that the module you buy has enough amps for the target device.