59g Refrigerator Door Issues

[eric1514]

If you own a 59g I urge you to take a look at your refrigerator door up near the top hinge. See that crack?



That's caused by the door opening too far and contacting the steel hinge. The manual says there is a stop to prevent this, but I can't find it even after I removed the panel with all the dials.

So I made this




It's a piece of some very thick walled tubing I had with a long wood screw through it. It prevents the door from opening far enough to contact that hinge but still allows plenty of opening. It's soft enough to not mar the door.

Eric

[bobojay]

Originally Posted by eric1514

If you own a 59g I urge you to take a look at your refrigerator door up near the top hinge. See that crack?



That's caused by the door opening too far and contacting the steel hinge. The manual says there is a stop to prevent this, but I can't find it even after I removed the panel with all the dials.

So I made this




It's a piece of some very thick walled tubing I had with a long wood screw through it. It prevents the door from opening far enough to contact that hinge but still allows plenty of opening. It's soft enough to not mar the door.

Eric

Humm, may have to go out and check mine now. Same fridge....

[mlts22]

Definitely worth noting. A screw and some tubing is a lot cheaper than a new fridge door and hinge.

[BobB]

Originally Posted by eric1514

If you own a 59g I urge you to take a look at your refrigerator door up near the top hinge. See that crack?


That's caused by the door opening too far and contacting the steel hinge. The manual says there is a stop to prevent this, but I can't find it even after I removed the panel with all the dials.

So I made this

It's a piece of some very thick walled tubing I had with a long wood screw through it. It prevents the door from opening far enough to contact that hinge but still allows plenty of opening. It's soft enough to not mar the door.

Eric

Nice quick fix!

I hope you sent to this to the engineering department at Winnebago. You would have thought this would have been evident by others by now. Wonder if FitRV has had/seen this problem, though they are still working on their review.

[BobB]

Originally Posted by BobB

Nice quick fix!

Wonder if FitRV has had/seen this problem, though they are still working on their review.

Someone brought up this issue back in June on the FitRV site.

They noted it seemed to be a Dometic issue, not necessarily a Winnebago issue. From your photos it does not seem to be caused from how Winnebago installed it.

[thefitrv]

Haven't seen the issue. Not a bad fix though.

But BTW - am I the only one who thinks it's silly that Dometic designed a refrigerator where you have to open the door to get to the controls? And a manual changeover fridge no less!

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by thefitrv

Haven't seen the issue. Not a bad fix though.

But BTW - am I the only one who thinks it's silly that Dometic designed a refrigerator where you have to open the door to get to the controls? And a manual changeover fridge no less!

I thought the same thing on my maiden voyage home.

[BobB]

Originally Posted by eric1514

I thought the same thing on my maiden voyage home.

I just wish they went with a 12/110 compressor fridge like the 59k.

I know, I know, they needed one to fit that narrow space, but that really is a design issue IMO - they backed themselves into a corner. So, now if you want to replace it, there really is nothing that size that is 12/110 and will fit.

[bobojay]

Originally Posted by thefitrv

Haven't seen the issue. Not a bad fix though.

But BTW - am I the only one who thinks it's silly that Dometic designed a refrigerator where you have to open the door to get to the controls? And a manual changeover fridge no less!

No you are not the only one. We also think it's silly that it doesn't have automatic switching between modes like most of their other units do.....

[Davydd]

You guys keep wishing for all those improvements to your Winnebagos and you'll be paying what others pay for their brands.

[booster]

Compressor frig wouldn't add any cost, might even reduce it, but they probably don't have enough battery for it.

[RTVATO]

Originally Posted by thefitrv

Haven't seen the issue. Not a bad fix though.

But BTW - am I the only one who thinks it's silly that Dometic designed a refrigerator where you have to open the door to get to the controls? And a manual changeover fridge no less!

Add me to the list of those who curse that EVERY TIME he goes to the fridge.

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by bobojay

No you are not the only one. We also think it's silly that it doesn't have automatic switching between modes like most of their other units do.....

In all honesty, once I light the fridge, I have no reason to switch it to any other power source. I might switch it to 110 if I'm staying more than overnight at a place that provides electricity, but otherwise I'm always on propane.

And Davydd also makes a good point.

[bobojay]

With a diesel RV there's no reason as far as I'm concerned to switch it around between propane, 110v or 12v. No fumes to worry about when filling up.
My thoughts on the subject Travato 59G, ERA 70A refrigerator is that it's a German designed & built model that has very little info available on it, few spare parts available thru RV dealers, and "old" style controls.
I agree with booster, unless WGO is getting these for a pittance, how much more for an auto switcher, which they already use in their "C's", or for the compressor models purchased in quantity

[BobB]

Originally Posted by bobojay

My thoughts on the subject Travato 59G, ERA 70A refrigerator is that it's a German designed & built model that has very little info available on it, few spare parts available thru RV dealers, and "old" style controls.

Found the manual online - in german and english. One issue with propane fridges is the maintenance. I know some say no big deal. I have not used my fridge in the propane mode at all - something about a small fire going on in the EVC while I am not there bothers me. Could have to do with my 10+ years sailing and ALWAYS turn off the propane when you are not using it (only for cooking, too). Those who own an EVC suggest that every year you pull the Norcold and do the maintenance. Pulling a Norcold in the EVC is a POA IMO.

And keep the EVC level.

For those with the 8330 in their 59G, the maintenance section says:

"The gas burner must be inspected and cleaned as necessary at least once a year. When using liquefied petroleum gas (tank or refill cylinders) the maintenance interval is reduced to half-yearly or quarterly.
Keep the evidence of maintenance work carried out on your refrigerator.

Work on gas and electrical equipment shall be carried out by qualified personnel only. It is recommended that this is carried out by an authorised customer services department."

See how the warranty goes if (1) you have an issue and don't have records that meet their interval requirements and (2) you are a DIYer.

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by BobB

Found the manual online - in german and english. One issue with propane fridges is the maintenance. I know some say no big deal. I have not used my fridge in the propane mode at all - something about a small fire going on in the EVC while I am not there bothers me. Could have to do with my 10+ years sailing and ALWAYS turn off the propane when you are not using it (only for cooking, too). Those who own an EVC suggest that every year you pull the Norcold and do the maintenance. Pulling a Norcold in the EVC is a POA IMO.

And keep the EVC level.

For those with the 8330 in their 59G, the maintenance section says:

"The gas burner must be inspected and cleaned as necessary at least once a year. When using liquefied petroleum gas (tank or refill cylinders) the maintenance interval is reduced to half-yearly or quarterly.
Keep the evidence of maintenance work carried out on your refrigerator.

Work on gas and electrical equipment shall be carried out by qualified personnel only. It is recommended that this is carried out by an authorised customer services department."

See how the warranty goes if (1) you have an issue and don't have records that meet their interval requirements and (2) you are a DIYer.

I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. No offence, but since you state you never use the propane burner on your fridge, that hardly qualifies you to comment on the maintenance thereof.

The gas burner must be inspected and cleaned as necessary at least once a year. When using liquefied petroleum gas (tank or refill cylinders) the maintenance interval is reduced to half-yearly or quarterly

That means look at the flame. If it is blue, you're done. If it is yellow or sooty, take a toothbrush and scrub the burner a couple of times. Every couple of years bang on the chimney to knock down any soot that's accumulated. Every mechanical thing on an RV requires maintenance. You're not going to be denied a warranty claim because you lack documentation that you took your fridge to the dealer every six months. Nobody does that.

P.S. Chrysler will honor your warranty even if you are a DIYer and change your own oil on the Travato and you don't have to save all your receipts.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by bobojay

With a diesel RV there's no reason as far as I'm concerned to switch it around between propane, 110v or 12v. No fumes to worry about when filling up.
My thoughts on the subject Travato 59G, ERA 70A refrigerator is that it's a German designed & built model that has very little info available on it, few spare parts available thru RV dealers, and "old" style controls.
I agree with booster, unless WGO is getting these for a pittance, how much more for an auto switcher, which they already use in their "C's", or for the compressor models purchased in quantity

What prompted me to comment was from a post on Facebook criticizing the snap on curtain on the 59K bathroom shower. WGO models are based on a thousand cuts but that could leave a thousand wishes. That curtain was one that saved money over a permanent curtain that would probably need to be more substantial plastic on a slider rail with a stay to leave it in place. The refrigerator is the same. It certainly looks as if WGO got a deal and probably partnered in its design since I hadn't seen it before WGO came out with it. They probably maximized the size the way it was designed and there could have been other reasons auto-switching was not implemented. The point is everywhere you look at a Travato you find those cost savings. Most everyone lives with and accepts them it seems. Some I find as strange such as hot water only when plugged in on the 59G. Compressor fridges may not cost more but are there any that size? Also, Booster answered his own question. You would need more battery power for a compressor fridge as a base item and that is significant and it is not just the cost of a second battery. WGO has probably done everything possible to create the most economical new B and it is not from just cutting cost in a few items. It's value engineering and design everywhere. It is clearly paying off in sales and giving Wincrasher a tinkering hobby as a side benefit.

[eric1514]

Originally Posted by Davydd

What prompted me to comment was from a post on Facebook criticizing the snap on curtain on the 59K bathroom shower. WGO models are based on a thousand cuts but that could leave a thousand wishes. That curtain was one that saved money over a permanent curtain that would probably need to be more substantial plastic on a slider rail with a stay to leave it in place. The refrigerator is the same. It certainly looks as if WGO got a deal and probably partnered in its design since I hadn't seen it before WGO came out with it. They probably maximized the size the way it was designed and there could have been other reasons auto-switching was not implemented. The point is everywhere you look at a Travato you find those cost savings. Most everyone lives with and accepts them it seems. Some I find as strange such as hot water only when plugged in on the 59G. Compressor fridges may not cost more but are there any that size? Also, Booster answered his own question. You would need more battery power for a compressor fridge as a base item and that is significant and it is not just the cost of a second battery. WGO has probably done everything possible to create the most economical new B and it is not from just cutting cost in a few items. It's value engineering and design everywhere. It is clearly paying off in sales and giving Wincrasher a tinkering hobby as a side benefit.

Exactly.

I bought the least expensive Class B on the market and made some compromises. If I have a complaint with WGO it's not their choice of components, it's their sometimes shoddy installation of those components.

Eric

[BobB]

Originally Posted by eric1514

I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. No offence, but since you state you never use the propane burner on your fridge, that hardly qualifies you to comment on the maintenance thereof.

Thank you for the correction and guidance. I did jump to a conclusion not based on MY experience, but on others' comments and experience. My apologies.

[RTVATO]

All that aside, I still don't like to have to open the fridge door to change the temperature setting, no matter which of the three modes it's in. Yes, I'm still a newbee at this but it takes no time when the door is open for the temperature to go up and forever for the temperture to drop. Couple that with having to change modes when we decide to travel about (which is why we got a "B" in the first place), I sit with my eyes glued to the temperature on the remote sensor I'm using to see what it shows which is ever changing depending on inside temp, outside temp, how much is in the fridge, and the power mode. Would it have been too much to ask to have at least the temperature setting knob on the outside? I guess the answer to that is "yes".