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09-08-2020, 03:50 AM
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#1
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Silver Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: PA
Posts: 66
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Sealant to use where the roof and body join?
I have a 2001 Roadtrek 190 and the sealant inside the gutter where the fiberglass roof and the body meet is cracked and peeling. What type of sealant and maintenance should be done to prevent water from leaking to the inside?
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09-08-2020, 01:41 PM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: MA
Posts: 186
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I just made a repair like this a few days ago. I'm not sure the very best sealant, but the one I used was Dynaflex 230 Clear. It goes on white, cleans up with water (and can be smoothed and shaped with a wet finger), then turns clear when it is dry.
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09-08-2020, 01:58 PM
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#3
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Silver Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: PA
Posts: 66
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Did you remove the old stuff first, or did you just put it on top?
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09-08-2020, 02:38 PM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: LA
Posts: 1,550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeski
Did you remove the old stuff first, or did you just put it on top?
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I like most had leaks with an 05/04 Roadtrek 190. And I had enough, so I spoke with Roadtrek with their best guesses? The caulk on the drip rail? was not very suspect, down on the list. I decided No more leaks, but no big deal concerning past leaks. Most were simple enough. Oh, per Roadtrek the caulk could be removed, Not was my experience - very difficult.
I determined that the drivers side Was leaking into the van right through the caulk, I watched, No Doubt. I have not had any leak in years, 6-7? Nope, I looked it up - 7 years ago, September. I caulked the drivers side and with the assistance of a neighbor we removed the awning, caulked that drip rail and replaced the awning.
I am Not suggesting that you use what I chose, only that you may want to consider it. It has worked, and I think, guess that it will last a very long time, long long time. But I do not have Evidence of that. I caulked right over the existing caulk, basically no choice.
Bud
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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09-08-2020, 09:47 PM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,619
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I recently spent $400 on caulking everythijg with one of my RV guys.
A few months before I added two solar panels & I thought that was the issue.
But it could have been the windshield poorly installed by an excellent guy who then went & did it again, no more problems.
But if I have one, it might be where the awning attaches.
Bottom line; had two guys on the roof checking everywhere only to be told the material the RV guy put on, it took 3 hours, was ineffective & bound to fail sooner than what they use.
My suggestion; go to a Windscreen Replacement biz & ask what they recommend, the heavy duty stuff.
__________________
Full Timer in a 2005 Roadtrek Versatile 190/Super Modified & Lifted, Two 220ah Lifeline 6 Volt AGMs in Series, 250 watts Solar, Victron BMV712 Meter & Victron MTTP 100V/30A Solar Controller, Magnum MMS1012 Inverter Charger, Onan 2.8 Generator, Novakool R3800 Fridge & more ...
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09-08-2020, 10:31 PM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: MA
Posts: 186
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I used a razor to carefully remove the old stuff down to the paint, wiped it down with alcohol to ensure a clean surface, and then applied the new stuff.
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09-13-2020, 11:58 PM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Québec
Posts: 2
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I used Proflex RV flexible sealant from Geocel for the driver’s side. Now, I have to remove the awning for the right side. How did you did that?
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09-08-2022, 09:32 PM
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#8
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New Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: London
Posts: 1
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Is this sealant only suitable for handling the machine or for larger parts as well? My house needs renovation for a long time, and I don't want to overpay. My neighbor gave me the number of a local siding company, but I'm still hoping to save some money. I could pay for their services in two months, but I have no time to wait, I need to solve this problem now. I've tried a few sealants, but the consistency is more like dry glue. I doubt the sealant should look like this, so I need something more reliable.
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09-08-2022, 10:56 PM
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#9
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatrabyn
My house needs renovation for a long time, and I don't want to overpay.
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In most cases on a campervan we are sealing between plastic and fiberglass or a seam between fiberglass ( such as the "cap" of a camper shell) to a steel body on the van
__________________
Mike
2006 Pleasure Way Lexor TD on a Chev 3500
Previous: tent strapped to Electra-Glide
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09-09-2022, 12:32 AM
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#10
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Daytona Beach, Florida. Hawkins Island Alaska
Posts: 124
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If you have an awning on your Roadtrek another place that water likes to come in is on the side of the RV at the mounting holes for the mounting hardware for the awning. I also used the Dynoflex 230 except in white when i removed the AC cover to cleanout the AC area and to inspect and service the AC and install a screen to keep flying, crawling, climbing critters out of the AC area and on the awning mounting hole area.
No leaks after 2 years
__________________
RAA357
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09-09-2022, 02:09 PM
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#11
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 584
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Try using Dicor Lap Sealant self-leveling, 501LSW. This is what Winnebago uses on a lot of motor homes for roof sealing at junctions. Try to clean off the old caulk and then clean with alcohol for a good clean area.
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