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09-15-2020, 04:38 PM
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#1
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Little Valley NY
Posts: 268
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Roadtrek 210 Versatile Storage seat stuck
Sorting out a few things on my RT210. First, both second row seats are stuck in the closed position. Can't get them lifted up to access storage. Is there a secret, or am I not forcing them enough. Don't want to break anything.
Second, the battery drawer box will not open. The T handle pops out, but will not completely turn 90 degrees for the drawer to pull out. I hate to put a big wrench on it and turn it all the way and break something. Anyone have any ideas?
Oh, the window screens, what kind of clamps are used to attach them to window frame. Previous owner used Velcro to attach them to window frame.
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09-15-2020, 05:29 PM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PHX, AZ
Posts: 2,660
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on m pleasure way- all my outside storage and battery bins were stiff- but I was able to release the battery catch by pushing in on the door/cover while turning the lock with key- shooting some wd40 at it with the straw
all of these were cleaned and lubed and alignment checked and now ok- it was a build up of dirt/corrision not a mechanical breakage
Mike
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09-15-2020, 06:33 PM
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#3
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Platinum Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: California
Posts: 336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm@atlanticbb.net
Oh, the window screens, what kind of clamps are used to attach them to window frame. Previous owner used Velcro to attach them to window frame.
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Actually, the velcro might have been from the factory. That's the way they're attached on my LTV Free Spirit. And while the adhesive has become somewhat brittle, I expect I'll use the same method when/if I need to replace the attachments.
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09-15-2020, 07:56 PM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Little Valley NY
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvsprinterguy
Actually, the velcro might have been from the factory. That's the way they're attached on my LTV Free Spirit. And while the adhesive has become somewhat brittle, I expect I'll use the same method when/if I need to replace the attachments.
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Factory told me clips, but never told me what kind. Never replied when I asked!
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09-15-2020, 08:59 PM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Little Valley NY
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm@atlanticbb.net
First, both second row seats are stuck in the closed position. Can't get them lifted up to access storage. Is there a secret, or am I not forcing them enough. Don't want to break anything.
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They will not budge. The bottoms pull forward, but will not lift at all. My understanding is that they were suppose to lift up for access to storage underneath .
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09-15-2020, 09:58 PM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Little Valley NY
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm@atlanticbb.net
First, both second row seats are stuck in the closed position. Can't get them lifted up to access storage. Is there a secret, or a!! m I not forcing them enough. Don't want to break anything.
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They will not budge. The bottoms pull forward, but will not lift at all. My understanding is that they were suppose to lift up for access to storage underneath .
Figured them out!!! Pull out half way and then lift. All kind of storage on drivers side!!! And a little on drivers side. Now we're good to go
Now if we can get the pesky battery box to slide out!
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09-16-2020, 05:22 PM
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#7
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parmm@atlanticbb.net
Second, the battery drawer box will not open. The T handle pops out, but will not completely turn 90 degrees for the drawer to pull out. I hate to put a big wrench on it and turn it all the way and break something. Anyone have any ideas?
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Another member recently had a similar problem (don't know what to search for to find their post), but suffice it say they reported a few sprays of lube fixed their problem.
Good luck.
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09-25-2020, 02:57 PM
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#8
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Silver Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 74
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Regarding the release latches, they will break if forced with tools. The latches are connected to the handle via relatively thin wire. What I did when I had a stuck latch was lube them blindly with penetrating lubricant and work them loose by working the handle. After getting them open enough to get the drawer rolled out I worked them some more with penetrating lube until they were completely free. That happened in 2016 and they work well now with relatively little maintenance (we drive the RT all winter for skiing so it gets more than its share of salt).
Here's a picture of the latch:
20200925_093653.jpg
Here's a picture of the frame with striker:
20200925_093746.jpg
Sorry for the sideways pictures, I don't see a way to fix that but I'm sure there is.
As you may imagine when the door is closed these are very hard to get to, can't be seen through the gasket. I used a straw on the penetrating lube and tried to aim for them (latches on the other doors are similar and provided a guide). I don't remember whether I could get a tool in to work the actual latch.
I do remember spending a long time doing this, maybe even left the penetrating lube on overnight.
Don't have a picture of the wire connection, IIRC I had to disassemble it to see it.
__________________
Stewart, Brenda and kids
2006 Roadtrek 210 Versatile, 400W Solar, 320AH LiFePO4. Suspension mods: Front: Moog 81004 coil springs. Rear: SuperSteer Track Bar, AirLift airbags with integrated bump stop, 2" lift blocks, removed overload leafs. All around: Bilsteins, 265-75R16 K02's
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09-25-2020, 07:59 PM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5
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I had that problem too. Sprayed penetrating oil...maybe a lot of penetrating oil and eventually the drawer opened. My locks were not as bad as yours appear to be. I cleaned them up, cleaned up the rust and haven't had the problem for a year now.
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09-25-2020, 10:23 PM
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#10
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Little Valley NY
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luv2Go
Regarding the release latches, they will break if forced with tools. The latches are connected to the handle via relatively thin wire. What I did...... .
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Thanks for letting me know. I have new AGM batteries ordered and found a Mobile RV guy to handle that repair along with a couple other issues!!! But first oil change, ATF fluid and filter, Coolant change and differential oil change along with state safety inspection!!
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06-03-2023, 02:48 AM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: ohio
Posts: 2
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to luv 2 go
are you satisfied w your suspension work or might there b something you would consider differently. we recently acquired a similar RT
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06-03-2023, 02:53 AM
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#12
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2023
Location: ohio
Posts: 2
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to all for suggestions
we use our R T 210 each week as 2nd car. we find it awkward plugging in the shore power cord to the inside the drawer socket any thoughts?? thanks , steve
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06-03-2023, 03:41 AM
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#13
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Silver Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 74
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Yes, we are satisfied with the changes. Still bounces on bad bumps, but no longer bangs due to hitting the overload or bump stops. The bangs were very jarring and make it difficult to be comfortable in the back. We run about 65 PSI in the bags, seems to be the happy spot, minimizing bouncing while eliminating the banging caused by hitting the bags bump stop. Steering is much better than before as well.
__________________
Stewart, Brenda and kids
2006 Roadtrek 210 Versatile, 400W Solar, 320AH LiFePO4. Suspension mods: Front: Moog 81004 coil springs. Rear: SuperSteer Track Bar, AirLift airbags with integrated bump stop, 2" lift blocks, removed overload leafs. All around: Bilsteins, 265-75R16 K02's
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06-04-2023, 12:26 AM
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#14
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 246
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Ongoing thread in new posts about relocating shore power plug. Several ideas.
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