Roadtrek 210 has no 110v at Triplite input

[BWhoUR]

My multimeter shows 121 volts at the shore power cable before I plug it into the outdoor receptacle at the aft left corner of the van. When I plug that connector into the 120v 30amp outdoor receptacle to provide the van 120 power there is no 120v power at any inside receptacles, except for a reading of 13 volts at the Triplite inverter input. Neither 30 amp circuit breaker has tripped.

When I touch the exterior frame of the chassis I get a mild shock. When I touch one probe of the multimeter to the frame and the other probe to my bare skin while barefooted I read up to 80 volts.

So there must be a short somewhere. How do I find it without removing the interior wall covering?

Thanks in advance,
BWhoUr




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[mkguitar]

We can sometimes test and find "voltage" but the current may be milliamps.

Often when testing I use a lamp so that a load is placed on the circuit I am trying to test
or you could measure the amps if your meter has that option.


I would first check all your AC breakers, and any GFCI breakers ( usually in the can or by the galley sink


If all this checks out, then I would look for a problem between your plug into the van and the circuit breakers- this would include checking the transfer switch for the genny

[mloganusda]

You have a hot skin condition, and it can kill you. Research hot skin conditions quick. A good source is RVelectricity™ with Mike Sokol on rvtravel.com newsletter or on the internet. People have been killed with this condition.

[BWhoUR]

Yes, the CBs and GFCIs have checked out, and I'm well aware of the hot skin condition. My question remains the same: Do I have to start removing wall covering to track down the location of the short? If so, should I begin at the 120v input plug, or the 120v CBs, or at the house receptacle that sends 120v into the Triplite inverter?

[booster]

You can start by trying to locate the general area of leak to ground.


Start with the van unplugged and the inverter/charger fully off with the fuse pulled if you have a fuse in the box for it. Check the input plug for continuity between hot and ground. You should not have any continuity under those conditions. Odds are you will see some continuity and a resistance value on the meter.



Unplugging every thing that is plugged in and testing is a good idea and some appliances and other items can short internally and give your problem. IIRC we had one on here a while ago where the water heater was the culprit for a neutral to hot current leak which can also give a hot skin.


Move on by shutting off the main breaker and checking for continuity between hot and ground after the main breaker on plus bar and ground bar. While you are there make sure there are only ground wires on the ground bar and only neutral wires on the neutral bar. If you have continuity the problem is probably after the breaker panel or inside it.



If you have that continuity start pulling fuses one at a time and see it goes away. If it does go away you know what circuit to trace and you probably should go to the home center and buy a circuit tracer that plugs into and outlet or clips on a connection and generates a signal you can trace with a receiver. If the leak is significant enough you probably would be able to find the area of the leak, but even if you don't at least you will know where the wires are for that circuit.