Chevy Suspension Upgrade Problem

[Dieps]

Roadtrek Guy - I’ll defer to boosters overall knowledge on suspensions but after three months, my RT 210 has settled in to 36 3/4” front fender wells. The rear is 37 1/2” with 50 psi in the AirLift bags - that’s around 3 1/4” rise. My 210 is heavier than your 190. Weights are 3560# on the front axle (both empty and full). Rear is 4940# empty / 5820# loaded for travel but no water. Full water adds 240 pounds.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Dieps

Roadtrek Guy - I’ll defer to boosters overall knowledge on suspensions but after three months, my RT 210 has settled in to 36 3/4” front fender wells. The rear is 37 1/2” with 50 psi in the AirLift bags - that’s around 3 1/4” rise. My 210 is heavier than your 190. Weights are 3560# on the front axle (both empty and full). Rear is 4940# empty / 5820# loaded for travel but no water. Full water adds 240 pounds.

That is good to hear, and while still and inch higher than they used to be, not as bad.


Your 210 is heavier than his 190, but the front weight on yours is likely less than his because of all the rear overhang in the 210s that takes weight off the front.


We routinely hear of 190s with front weights in the 4100-4300# range, and that is where ours runs most of the time when loaded for travel.


He may actually come out a bit lower than you did, which is probably a good thing overall.

[TX-Trek]

I also went thru the dilemma of which coils to use, decided to use AC Delco springs instead. They did give the right height increase but you never know till it's back on the ground. As Booster noted, too high and there's an issue with the upper control arm too close to the frame. If you've got someone knowledgeable with constant rate springs they can probably figure out how much to trim part of a coil to take off some height. But as mentioned it will probably settle a bit. Ours came down about a half inch, sits at 36 in front fender lip height and slightly rests on the Sumo Springs (black) instead of smashing them before the new coils.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...des-13041.html

Those 2 in blocks on ours did have the bumper perch that interfered with the bags, about 5 minutes with the cutoff fixed that....

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by peteco

Not sure why the Air lift didn't work as many others use them. I have the Firestone 2337 airbag system and am very happy with it with 9 years on them. They mount differently than the Airlifts. I have a 2006 RT 210P. I got them at sdtucksprings.com

is it allowed to respond to a old thread is there a specified time limit that can not be exceeded? or should I start a new thread or should I search old threads you know the threads that are old you shouldn't respond to.

woopsies I just saw TX-Trek has responded to a old thread.

anyway

Pete I've been reading about the Firestone 2337 airbag system help w/ wind sway. my new vans documents included the Firestone 2337 airbag system installation specs however either they where removed or never installed.

I've read that these air bags w/ elevate the rear 3" not sure if they can go higher, like can they go higher.

I'm used to driving a tall van in wind, but will welcome any sway improvement bc my vessel is also very tall doubling the sway.

I tow a larger boat when I back it into the water, I'd like to minimize splashing water onto the generator & propane tank not to mention the underneth van.
the priority for me is to elevate the rear end as much as possiable. thanks

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

I also went thru the dilemma of which coils to use, decided to use AC Delco springs instead. They did give the right height increase but you never know till it's back on the ground. As Booster noted, too high and there's an issue with the upper control arm too close to the frame. If you've got someone knowledgeable with constant rate springs they can probably figure out how much to trim part of a coil to take off some height. But as mentioned it will probably settle a bit. Ours came down about a half inch, sits at 36 in front fender lip height and slightly rests on the Sumo Springs (black) instead of smashing them before the new coils.

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...des-13041.html

Those 2 in blocks on ours did have the bumper perch that interfered with the bags, about 5 minutes with the cutoff fixed that....

it's not recommended to trim springs. springs are engineered for a rate.

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

it's not recommended to trim springs. springs are engineered for a rate.

In general I would agree with you, but in some cases it is the only way to get the right ride height.


There used to be springs that worked well on Chevies but now the same Moog part number is ridiculously too stiff and gives too much height. It appears the designed that either they or a vendor took liberties with rate spec.


Cutting does minimally increase the spring rate, but not much with the short amount we are talking about. The biggest concern to me is more the change in the end configuration that may happen if the spring has closed or semi-closed ends. The top pocket is flat so that can be at least somewhat be allowed for by grinding the end flat to get at least part of the needed length change along with cutting before that for the rest. People have been cutting springs for many decades and I have rarely heard of major issues like destroying a spring pocket or bending it. It might shorten the life of the spring a bit, though, as the stresses in the cut end will change a bit.


If someone was a metallurgist and had access to a heat treating over, the Moog springs could probably be drawn a bit to soften them, or totally annealed and retreated properly. Unless they went to a different alloy that isn't up to the task.

[TX-Trek]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

it's not recommended to trim springs. springs are engineered for a rate.

It's not a big deal to slightly trim the end off of a constant rate spring. It simply changes the installed height.
Not talking about progressive rate springs.