Safety with steering wheel play

[sewright33]

I purchased a 2000 roadtrek 200 versatile a couple of months also and have had someone working on it since then one seat belt attachment missing snd play in the steering wheel making 80 km very “tight grip to hold it straight”
The previous owner failed to tell us the generator needed a switch, loose wire in top storage plugged in but nothing but bare wires on end, the whole surround area of fabric and window were leaking big time and the one back passenger door
Do you hold the mechanic at fault for steering and seat belt issue
Tired of pouring more money into this
Ontario
Ann

[Hammernine]

We have the 2004 RoadTrek 200 Popular. Steering drove me crazy so rebuilt front end, new Bilstien shocks, but the real help was 2” wheel spacers on the rear. Put a lot of work in ours but worth it.

[Road Toad]

Originally Posted by sewright33

I purchased a 2000 roadtrek 200 versatile a couple of months also and have had someone working on it since then one seat belt attachment missing snd play in the steering wheel making 80 km very “tight grip to hold it straight”
The previous owner failed to tell us the generator needed a switch, loose wire in top storage plugged in but nothing but bare wires on end, the whole surround area of fabric and window were leaking big time and the one back passenger door
Do you hold the mechanic at fault for steering and seat belt issue
Tired of pouring more money into this
Ontario
Ann

I assume it is the Dodge chassis?

[Scottie409]

Originally Posted by Hammernine

We have the 2004 RoadTrek 200 Popular. Steering drove me crazy so rebuilt front end, new Bilstien shocks, but the real help was 2” wheel spacers on the rear. Put a lot of work in ours but worth it.

On my 2000 200 (Chev) I installed single rear rims from dually vehicles and mounted the rims to give me an additional 6" of track width in addition installed Sumo springs (poly dampers) on the rear. I also fabricated a steering damper which helps a lot.
I have driven 7500kms with this settup and had no issues with the rims or wheel bearings. In high wind situations the Sumo springs make a big difference. I also carry a small motorcycle on a rear hitch with no issues so far.

[Scottie409]

You are buying a 22 year old vehicle and unless the previous owners were anal about maintenance you need to expect repairs will be needed.

[Hammernine]

Sorry no, the Chevy. But I hear the Dodges are even worse. Ours rides like a dream now. My daughter bought the 1998 Ram RoadTrek 190 and I helped fix it up. I really like the Roadtreks.

[rtbill]

Sorry to hear you're having this experience but it's a Roadtreak. Leaking is what they do.

Years ago I discovered the plywood under the bed in our '01 200 was rotting thanks to the rear window and taillight leaking. I took the wall liners off to dry them. I saved the plywood by patiently injecting epoxy into it. I coated the big wood cleats which hold up the edges of the bed with epoxy to protect them from future leaks. I set the edges of the plywood on spacers to create a gap between it and the cleats to allow water to drain rather than soak the plywood.

I discovered the drains in the taillights were clogged with dirt. The drain tubes had been made too long. The lower ends were resting on the body, impeding drainage. I snipped an inch off each one a cleaned them out with a stiff wire.

We remounted one of the side windows with plenty of caulk. The rear window was too much of a project, so we had an RV shop remount it. Within a couple of years both were leaking again. At least the water can freely drain now instead of wetting the plywood and the liner.

I suspect the big fiberglass body is not rigid enough to resist various twisting motions going down the road, leading to the window caulking eventually failing.

After every rainy episode I open the drain plugs. Anything you carry in the storage compartments either has to be waterproof or in a waterproof container.

Another leak source is the big rubber hinges on the storage doors. With use and sun exposure they crack. You can find threads about replacing them and where to get new hinges.

As for the steering, when the van was new it went down the road like a drunken whale. We installed a steering damper, Bilstein shocks, and supplemental air springs on the rear axle. The handling improved substantially. Now with more than 100,000 miles the steering is getting loose; I suspect there are a lot of worn parts that need replacing. If no equipment like that was installed on your van I'm not surprised that with 20+ years of use it's a not a fun driving machine.

Again I'm sorry you're having this experience but did you not inspect and drive the van before you bought it?

[N147JK]

I don't think an older vehicle is worth it unless the new owner can work on it and fix things themselves. If you have the interest and the aptitude to do that you can have a very nice van for little money spent. But I hear ya.. paying a mechanic the high wage they demand to work on a leaky old Roadtrek is likely to be a frustrating experience. Here's a best kept secret.. grab a flashlight and your tool box because these vans are a cinch to work on.

[It's a beast]

Originally Posted by sewright33

I purchased a 2000 roadtrek 200 versatile a couple of months also and have had someone working on it since then one seat belt attachment missing snd play in the steering wheel making 80 km very “tight grip to hold it straight”
The previous owner failed to tell us the generator needed a switch, loose wire in top storage plugged in but nothing but bare wires on end, the whole surround area of fabric and window were leaking big time and the one back passenger door
Do you hold the mechanic at fault for steering and seat belt issue
Tired of pouring more money into this
Ontario
Ann

Last April I bought a 2007 210P that was "well maintained"... Well, it also has a lot of oversteer, meaning the wheel feels loose. I had many of the front end parts replaced with little improvement. I learned about tire pressure on this forum (55 in front, 80 in rear) which did help a bit. However, I've gotten used to it and can now drive it anywhere! My advice is to try and relax your grip a bit. I also had to replace the radiator and had a leak from the AC housing which soaked the back wall. I'm not a mechanic so had to pay 2 different shops for this work, but I'm still happy with my little rig. Motorhomes and trailers will always need work and repairs, but I've had some great adventures in my RT!

[peteco]

Originally Posted by It's a beast

Last April I bought a 2007 210P that was "well maintained"... Well, it also has a lot of oversteer, meaning the wheel feels loose. I had many of the front end parts replaced with little improvement. I learned about tire pressure on this forum (55 in front, 80 in rear) which did help a bit. However, I've gotten used to it and can now drive it anywhere! My advice is to try and relax your grip a bit. I also had to replace the radiator and had a leak from the AC housing which soaked the back wall. I'm not a mechanic so had to pay 2 different shops for this work, but I'm still happy with my little rig. Motorhomes and trailers will always need work and repairs, but I've had some great adventures in my RT!

Try 65 psi in the front and see how that does. My 210 handles best with 65 front, 80 rear.

[booster]

Originally Posted by peteco

Try 65 psi in the front and see how that does. My 210 handles best with 65 front, 80 rear.

65psi has been the recommendation most common that I have seen and what we found best with stock size tires on our 07 C190P Roadtrek.



I would add that there is no reason to put up with loose steering in the Chevies as it shouldn't be there. Idler arms are a prime suspect but all the front end parts could be worn, especially if they weren't greased regularly.


I would get a god shop to look at it and also check the alignment to see what it is. What you particularly look for in wander or darting would be that is toed in and not out and if it has caster at +3 or above with a bit more on the right than left.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by booster

65psi has been the recommendation most common that I have seen and what we found best with stock size tires on our 07 C190P Roadtrek.



I would add that there is no reason to put up with loose steering in the Chevies as it shouldn't be there. Idler arms are a prime suspect but all the front end parts could be worn, especially if they weren't greased regularly.


I would get a god shop to look at it and also check the alignment to see what it is. What you particularly look for in wander or darting would be that is toed in and not out and if it has caster at +3 or above with a bit more on the right than left.

Hey Booster,
Could you post the complete alignment specs you have found works best on the Chevy Express? I think you have them elsewhere but it would help to put them here also. Thanks.

[booster]

I like to have as much caster as possible up to maybe 5.5*+ with .3-.5* more on the right side.


Camber at 1/4*+ and even within 1/8*


Toe always in, never out, and 1/16" to 1/8" in on tight front end parts, and perhaps up to 3/16" to 1/4" on worn parts depending on how much you can change the toe when pushing the rear of the front wheels out and than in.

[It's a beast]

Oh yes, I misspoke! Thanks for the reminder!

[It's a beast]

I had many of the parts replaced... We discussed this several months ago. For me, part of the issue was going from driving my Subaru, which is very tight and hugs the road, to driving the RT, which handles very differently. I was afraid that there was something wrong, but after checking tires, front end, steering box, etc., I think it's just the nature of driving a heavy van. I will check the alignment specs you provided... My mechanic is very open to suggestions from people who own and drive these rigs. Happy holidays!

[peteco]

Originally Posted by It's a beast

I had many of the parts replaced... We discussed this several months ago. For me, part of the issue was going from driving my Subaru, which is very tight and hugs the road, to driving the RT, which handles very differently. I was afraid that there was something wrong, but after checking tires, front end, steering box, etc., I think it's just the nature of driving a heavy van. I will check the alignment specs you provided... My mechanic is very open to suggestions from people who own and drive these rigs. Happy holidays!

Can you provide a list of all the parts that were replaced?