Advice on installing hardwood flooring

[RoadRebecca]

We have a '97 HD. Because we travel with our dogs, we want to replace the carpet, which attracts their hair and scents, with hardwood flooring. (I realize this is heretical to a lot of purists, but we want our Rialta to be as comfortable as possible for our family.) I have seen this post (http://rialtacoffeetour.wordpr.....nbsp;about updating a Rialta and wonder if anyone has more advice on removing the carpeting and installing hardwood flooring, e.g. what tools and materials were invaluable, how much time did it take, what advice would you offer now that you've done it yourself? I'm committed to reporting back my results. (That's what makes forums like this one valuable, right?)

[DougCanuck]

How did you make out with installing your flooring? I'm about to rip out the carpet in my 2003 twin and install 'Brazilian Cherry wood' also known as 'jatoba'.

[mattlpage]

Anybody have any stories to tell? I read Tynan's story about having to use a grinder to get the glue off.


How hard is pulling up the carpet maybe just in the entry of my 1995 Rialta? I would LOVE to be able to sweep that area!



Also---maybe pulling out the carpet and padding I can get another 0.5 inches headspace there? That would make a HUGE difference for me!

[mloganusda]

I have replaced my carpet with cork flooring and you do not need to use a grinder to remove the glue. Use one of the muilty tools that you can buy at Harbor Freight or other places. The flooring under the carpet is formed into a "W" shape with steryfoam between to make the floor level. There is rubber foam glued over the foam and the carpet glued to it.

[bigdan]

Id like to know if the cork flloring acts as an insulant too ...



is it warm for the feet ? I hate having cold feet grrr!



Dan

[mloganusda]

The cork flooring is somewhat cool upon first touching but is warm and insulates. We use small throw rugs where we touch the floor from the rear bed. I installed the flooring last March and have not had any cold weather to see the difference between the carpet and cork. I did find out that with the smooth cork floor that things do slide around some during stopping and starting.

[bigdan]

thanks ,

[DougCanuck]

I installed a wood floor in our 2003 FD twin. I had Jutoba wood resawn and planed to 1/4 which I glued to 1/8 ply and installed it in panels. I decided to do away with the shower and turn the shower basin into my tool box. I also brought the floor out over part of the entrance way to make a place to stuff shoes. I built a removable shower stall that sticks on the side of the Rialta (with suction cups) around the outside shower taps. I chose Jutoba (also known as Brazilian Cherry) because it's extremely hard. The trick is to finish it with oil and not varithane or varnish because the hard finish will scratch. After long trips I give the floor a good scrubbing and wipe a little more oil on it. It's been installed for close to a year now and we're very pleased with it.


If I could figure out how to post a picture here I would.

[boxdorfere]

My sister and I are in the process of removing and replacing the flooring in a 2003 Rialta.


I really like the suggestions and pictures in Mloganusda post. We will use some of your suggestions.


Pictures will follow in September

[stephanietwest]

Originally Posted by boxdorfere

My sister and I are in the process of removing and replacing the flooring in a 2003 Rialta.


I really like the suggestions and pictures in Mloganusda post. We will use some of your suggestions.


Pictures will follow in September

Did you remove and replace the flooring in your Rialta? How'd it go?

[JimDyson]

Originally Posted by stephanietwest

Did you remove and replace the flooring in your Rialta? How'd it go?

Any updates from those who have done flooring?

[ra2jim]

While I have not redone my RT’s floor, in my home I’ve put in an “engineered” wood floor (stabilized thin layers glued together with last veneer made of wood species of choice; ½” total thickness) that is prefinished. The edges are “tongue-n-groove” to achieve snug and locking fit. Had to buy an inexpensive crow-bar like tool that you hit with a hammer to snap the boards together. This was a floating system (not nailed) which helps floor from buckling during contraction/expansion of wood (all materials will do this). After 9 years still looks good, no splits or checks nor shrinkage. Key is solid sub-floor, perfectly flat no dips or valleys to prevent creeking noise.

Having said that, a “true” wood floor in a moving van seems tricky – constant movement suggests unstable sub-floor and possibly some bending when the van hits bumps. It would seem to make sense to use a floating system, but I think since the area we are talking about is small (about 30” wide x 10 ft long?) maybe glue-down system may work better. If I were to do mine, I would use a solid plywood sub-floor on top of the bare metal floor with ridges filled (metal rate of expansion is too different from wood). I would want to secure the plywood to the metal floor – not sure if glue or screw. I would leave gaps, maybe 1/8” at edges of plywood to adjacent vertical surfaces for expansion – maybe seal it. Before I glue the finish wood floor I would acclimatize it inside the van at least overnight so that it is as stable to its environment as possible. If you can park your van in a covered area (no sun nor rain) – garage is better – to do the work. Hopefully no extreme humidity.

If you are not a purist, then consider LVT – luxury vinyl tile (try Mannington.com for pics) – with the wood look. There’s wide range of quality but some really look good. You would still need a sturdy sub-floor but not losing that extra half inch of height.
Whichever method you use, good luck…keep us posted.