Water Heater question

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Rlum

A timer may be a bit much since do not use hot water same time of day. Sometimes very early and in warm afternoon for showers?

This isn't a time-of-day timer. It's just holds the solenoid open for a certain number of seconds after you press the button. Saves the user from having to stand there with his or her finger on the button.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Rlum

Now that makes sense. As long as I install the return line below water pump or on the incoming side of pump, it should be fine?

I don't think I would use the valve in Avanti's post as it is solid brass and doesn't appear to be drinking water rated. I think lead is the main issue in brass, but not sure about that.


You should be able to find an approved one, but it would probably more expensive.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by booster

I don't think I would use the valve in Avanti's post as it is solid brass and doesn't appear to be drinking water rated. I think lead is the main issue in brass, but not sure about that.


You should be able to find an approved one, but it would probably more expensive.

Yes, probably best to find a food-rated valve.

However, the problem with brass only occurs in the presence of acidic foods (which causes leaching of copper and a bit of lead). Traditionally, the FDA has only disallowed the use of copper for food with a ph below 6

https://www.marlinwire.com/blog/food...tal-wire-forms

(although that may have been tightened recently). Given this and the circumstances of use, I decided to not worry about it. This is not to say that you should do the same.

Interestingly, the regulations make an exception for beer making, since copper is a necessary nutrient for yeast.

[booster]

Originally Posted by avanti

Yes, probably best to find a food-rated valve.

However, the problem with brass only occurs in the presence of acidic foods (which causes leaching of copper and a bit of lead). Traditionally, the FDA has only disallowed the use of copper for food with a ph below 6

https://www.marlinwire.com/blog/food...tal-wire-forms

(although that may have been tightened recently). Given this and the circumstances of use, I decided to not worry about it. This is not to say that you should do the same.

Interestingly, the regulations make an exception for beer making, since copper is a necessary nutrient for yeast.

Brass also has to be rated potable water safe also because you can easily run into acidic water that can leach lead.


The standard, it appears, is from the Clean Water Act and and will be even stricter on lead content starting in 2024, from what I read.


http://www.meritbrass.com/ProductInf...nformation.pdf

[Rlum]

Originally Posted by avanti

This isn't a time-of-day timer. It's just holds the solenoid open for a certain number of seconds after you press the button. Saves the user from having to stand there with his or her finger on the button.

I was planning on using a lit on/off switch next to my Truma controller. Generally do not leave the Truma on all day. Usually leave it on until hot water utilization is complete then turn off. Same with the water pump. Very, very seldom hook up to city water. Just add water at campsites into tank. Use water pump about 1 hour per day. The rest of time, turn it off. I think an on/off switch will work fine. Thanks again.

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by larryburt5@icloud.com

After much thought, we've decided to install a plug-in only small tank water heater in our soon-to-be converted Promaster 136 HT van. The Bosch Tronic 3000T Tank 4 gallon is our current idea, but I've noticed there is no drain, which will make flushing and prepping for winter storage difficult.
Looking for advice about how to drain the system or do you know of a similar small tank electric water heater that has a drain?

Another option you could consider is to use your engine coolant loop to heat water in a marine water heater. It is a very popular option within DIY community. Marine water heater is a well-insulated tank with a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger built in. 120VAC heater is often incorporated into the heater.

Isotemp is commonly used on the Sprinter forum DYI community.
I have 15l Isotemp mounted under the van heated by Espar Hydronic heater or 120VAC electric rod. It keeps high water temperature for 12 hours or more, so after driving it keeps water hot for long. https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/isotemp/

[Rlum]

Originally Posted by avanti

This isn't a time-of-day timer. It's just holds the solenoid open for a certain number of seconds after you press the button. Saves the user from having to stand there with his or her finger on the button.

Another question(s):

1. Since this is a closed loop system, how/where would you place a drain valve to remove water and replace with antifreeze for winter months?

2. I am planning on installing two close loops(one for kitchen and other for bathroom).

Thanks

[Sensfan]

Originally Posted by larryburt5@icloud.com

Thanks, those are problematic issues. Do you know of a small tank electric alternative with a drain and easier anode repair? I don't want an on-demand unit because they waste water with the initial lag and high minimum flow rate. Our van converter doesn't want to use a standard propane unit because of the large side opening required, difficult to place in a small van. The Whale Expanse or Propex Malaga are small tank european propane units, but apparently aren't certified for USA use. I'm starting to think hot water isn't worth it, we can always heat water on the stove.

Our 2012 Roadtrek 190 Ranger came with a 2.5 gallon/1440 watt Eemax plug-in water heater. Its dimensions are approximately 18 x 11 x 11 inches, including the pressure release valve. The unit operates only when the RT has shore power. FWIW, we spend a lot of time off grid and don’t miss the hot water; however, it is worth noting that the water remains warm for more than a day after disconnect. There is no drain, however I believe this is a positive in that it is relatively easy to remove and clean the unit for winter storage; IMO this also makes it easier to winterize the RT plumbing with antifreeze.
The fact that the original anode continues to function efficiently suggests that the yearly fall removal and flush effectively maintains the unit.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Rlum

Since this is a closed loop system, how/where would you place a drain valve to remove water and replace with antifreeze for winter months?

Well, I use compressed air, so no experience with that pink stuff. I just operate the valve while blowing out. If you are using antifreeze, I would think that after filling the system, you could just pump some through the loop. Either way, the important thing is to remember to operate the system(s) while winterizing.

[ks@yvr]

Another option that you might consider for a heater is a marine unit that has both a electric element and a heat exchanger. We have a Isotherm 601623 Isotemp Slim 4.2 Gal/16L Square Electric Water Heater that we ordered from Germany with the 120 volt element (significantly less landed cost than available North American suppliers). We have the heat exchanger plumbed into the return cab heater circuit and the water stays hot for 2 days after you stop driving. We have the electric element switched for either shore power or off the lithium batteries but frankly never use the electric element, except once while the van was in our driveway for an extended period of time. It is truly a plumb and forget item.

[Bill4]

Originally Posted by larryburt5@icloud.com

After much thought, we've decided to install a plug-in only small tank water heater in our soon-to-be converted Promaster 136 HT van. The Bosch Tronic 3000T Tank 4 gallon is our current idea, but I've noticed there is no drain, which will make flushing and prepping for winter storage difficult.
Looking for advice about how to drain the system or do you know of a similar small tank electric water heater that has a drain?

We too have the Bosch Tronic 3000T Tank 4 gallon in out home built out Sprinter 3500. See our build out https://youtu.be/stt9PrNikOU. The Bosch design is such that the hot water connection is a dip tube while the cold water close to the top. We have emptied it by turning upside down but now just blow water back through the hot water connection out through the our cold water pipe low point, which empties practically all the water the remaining water is only a couple inches at most and does not cause any damage when it freezes.