Waste valve handle pulled out when dumping!

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

I completely eliminated, nulled, eradicated cheap Valterra blade valves, just have a screw on cap.

How does your hose transition work? Can you refer us to a pic, please?

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

How does your hose transition work? Can you refer us to a pic, please?

It doesn't, I don't have one. It is a rotating tube. For pictures search for a cassette system.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

It doesn't, I don't have one. It is a rotating tube. For pictures search for a cassette system.

This thread was hatched by an OP who has a conventional black tank gravity dump system which experienced a mechanical failure. I was anticipating that you were commenting in the thread context.

There may be other, more reliable ways of plumbing a Class B gravity dump, but in the end, any such system still has to mate up with a standard diameter dump hose. I haven’t yet set my brain to figuring out an alternate solution. Too many other Class B modification priorities.

[booster]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

This thread was hatched by an OP who has a conventional black tank gravity dump system which experienced a mechanical failure. I was anticipating that you were commenting in the thread context.

There may be other, more reliable ways of plumbing a Class B gravity dump, but in the end, any such system still has to mate up with a standard diameter dump hose. I haven’t yet set my brain to figuring out an alternate solution. Too many other Class B modification priorities.

Any system can fail, although a cassette probably stands the best chance of being able to fixed enough to get by for a while. Macerator systems use the same dump valve, so could still have the same problem.


Probably the most sure way, would be to add some vent plumbing from the black tank, or even from each tank, that could be accessible through a removable plug easily out the side of the van or even just inside the door. Carry a portable macerator and stick the pickup hose down the tube to pump out. Same as pumping though the toilet but no filthy hose through the van.

[themexicandoctor]

How about this, I used to use it to pass an uncontaminated hose of my own, through the outside of my Roadtrek, into & out of the Kitchen Cabinets, across the Aisle so I could fill rapidly & flush the black tank.

You are right about the Cassette types I now have (but its a Porta Potti), as to not being susceptible to damage. There is always a risk of tripping over something & it falling from a height with a fairly full tank & breaking but its not going to happen to me.

I got the part from West Marine & had a Marine Carpenter install it - it works miracles in not having a contaminated hose or a dirty hose dragged through a spotless truck.

[<<B-Guy>>]

Originally Posted by avanti

I have a vague memory of a procedure in which people drill a little hole in the housing somewhere that lets them spray in silicone lubricant.
Anybody know the details?

Yes, I did that with a trailer we previously owned - just drillled a small hole in teh end of the enclosure where the blade pulls back when you open the valve in order to spray lube in. The small hole was just closed up after with a stainless self tapping screw.

Not sure if it helped or not but I never did have any problem with the valves!

Brian.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by <<B-Guy>>

Yes, I did that with a trailer we previously owned - just drillled a small hole in teh end of the enclosure where the blade pulls back when you open the valve in order to spray lube in. The small hole was just closed up after with a stainless self tapping screw.

Not sure if it helped or not but I never did have any problem with the valves!

Brian.

Great idea, used it myself as the few dabs of product you put on the rubber leaves very quickly & the entire housing is constantly being cooked by the hot road most months.

[Bud]

"Any system can fail, although a cassette probably stands the best chance of being able to fixed enough to get by for a while."

Black Tanks Rule booster. Hey, just use some Wag Bags or equivalent for days, weeks, months, years? A better way enough to get by for a while.

Bud

[booster]

Originally Posted by Bud

"Any system can fail, although a cassette probably stands the best chance of being able to fixed enough to get by for a while."

Black Tanks Rule booster. Hey, just use some Wag Bags or equivalent for days, weeks, months, years? A better way enough to get by for a while.

Bud

Yep, or even garbage bag in the toilet and tie wraps.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by booster

...
Probably the most sure way, would be to add some vent plumbing from the black tank, or even from each tank, that could be accessible through a removable plug easily out the side of the van or even just inside the door. Carry a portable macerator and stick the pickup hose down the tube to pump out. Same as pumping though the toilet but no filthy hose through the van.

An interesting idea, but for those of us with unmodified frames, where to store the pump? We have no exterior storage.

And, ah, those dump stations that lack fresh water, as they expect you to supply your own... limited ability to rinse said soiled pump. Which must be stored inside the van.

I shouldn't be typing this at ten o'clock in the evening. Nightmares will follow.

[themexicandoctor]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

An interesting idea, but for those of us with unmodified frames, where to store the pump? We have no exterior storage.

And, ah, those dump stations that lack fresh water, as they expect you to supply your own... limited ability to rinse said soiled pump. Which must be stored inside the van.

I shouldn't be typing this at ten o'clock in the evening. Nightmares will follow.

A Nightmare would be all the Dump.Stations begin to panic & block.access to Fresh Water refills.

Personally the only facility that I have found that refuses Fresh Water for your tanks was the Los Angeles City run Hyperion Sewage Plant.

They let you use all the non-potable water but no potable water.

Then I remembered Metro RV (horrific operation), who when the station is open wont let you refill with fresh & Benchmark RV who also prohibit refill unless you know someone.

Interblog, you are very well traveled at least recently, have you found other locations that refuse fresh water & if so, what percentage?

Is it moreso in the USA or Canada?

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by <<B-Guy>>

the end of the rod is not threaded but has a sort of knob or bend on the end that engages the blade

Yes, the end of the rod where it goes intot the valve is not threaded. It has a knob of sorts (an indent all around) that somehow (perhaps held in place by some sort of clip?) engages the blade.

Originally Posted by <<B-Guy>>

it is usually possible to get the rod back in, and then to rotate it to the point that it will hopefully catch again, at least once in order to dump the tank, after which he replaces the valve assembly

I tried this a bit just now and it did not work for me. I can get the rod back in and rotate it but it does not reengage. At least, I haven't gotten the trick of it if it can be done.

Originally Posted by <<B-Guy>>

I would use a dremel tool and cut away part of the slide valve housing to the point that I could hopefully grab onto the blade with vice grips and hen pull it open to dump.

This is the answer, I think. When I replace the valve I will cut it apart and see, perhaps I will post some pics here though I don't expect to get to it any time soon as I do not plan on using the black tank for a while.

Originally Posted by <<B-Guy>>

Since day one with our brand new Class B though, (2 years old) I have taken to putting in a dollop of the Camco slide valve lube every time I dump the tanks to hopefully avoid ever having any issues - a small price to pay if it works to avoid a messy situation!

This is important. Before mine came loose it was very hard to pull out for several months so I imagine I was just pulling too hard when it was working and every time I pulled it all the way out I just kept jamming the rod outward and eventually it just came loose. Keeping it lubricated (both inside and out using the idea of drilling a hole in the housing and spraying in some grease) seems like it would extend the life of the thing. Plus, I think, the idea of just replacing it preemptively every few or several years would probably be a good idea.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

This is one of those parts where learned owners replace it preemptively about every 2 years, because it's just too flimsy to rely on. Cheap plastic with insufficient rubber and a poorly-designed handle.

AND - never, ever, ever travel without a spare in the onboard kit. Plus carry the tools and the knowledge required to replace it yourself.

So, I decided to take InterBlog's sage advice and order a pair of valves. Much to my surprise, they are showing either "out of stock" or are ridiculously expensive at all my go-to parts places (RVupgrades, eTrailers, Amazon, etc). Seems kind of strange. I guess either InterBlog is an even bigger influencer than I had realized, or else this is related to the current RV craze, and all the upfitters have drained the supply chain.

I ended up getting one of these:
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Valte...-p/89-8412.htm
Price isn't too bad since it comes with both valves. Let me know if you need the rest.

[<<B-Guy>>]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

An interesting idea, but for those of us with unmodified frames, where to store the pump? We have no exterior storage.

And, ah, those dump stations that lack fresh water, as they expect you to supply your own... limited ability to rinse said soiled pump. Which must be stored inside the van.

I shouldn't be typing this at ten o'clock in the evening. Nightmares will follow.

Replacing it periodically isn't a bad idea - as is carrying a spare, but IMHO carrying a spare might be a little overkill as apart from anything else it is one more thing to carry in our limited storage space - and I think quite likely something you may never use. As well, they are a very standard item a available normally at any RV dealer or repair shop

I will say that in over forty years of RV'ing - and always worrying about what I could do if one failed with a full tank and thinking of plans to deal with that, I have never had a problem.

I did add the access hole and ss screw to our last trailer just because I read about it and it sounded like a good idea, and also because the valve in that trailer (2005 Airstream Classic 30, bought used when 3 tears old) always seemed extra tight and that made me all the more nervous, allthough they always worked!

With our new van I adopted, the idea of using the Camco valve seal lube every dump or second dump if we were on a long trip! I haven't drilled the housings yet but likely will if I sense that the valve slides are getting tighter.

With our Airstream I had tried various products - baby oil, and olive oil. Someone told me it was not good to use mineral oil (expands the seal maybe?)

Wasn't sure what baby oil was so I switched and continued to use cheap veg oil or olive oil.

The Camco stuff uses coconut oil - no idea if it is better or not !

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by avanti

So, I decided to take InterBlog's sage advice and order a pair of valves. Much to my surprise, they are showing either "out of stock" or are ridiculously expensive at all my go-to parts places (RVupgrades, eTrailers, Amazon, etc). Seems kind of strange. I guess either InterBlog is an even bigger influencer than I had realized, or else this is related to the current RV craze, and all the upfitters have drained the supply chain.

I ended up getting one of these:
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Valte...-p/89-8412.htm
Price isn't too bad since it comes with both valves. Let me know if you need the rest.

I am the world's smallest influencer. This is a symptom of the broken supply chain. Everything is sold out.

After my quarantine-in-a-van experiences, I decided that propane is my new best friend, and that I can never own too many propane tanks. So I'm trying to get one in every size, so that each one can fit a specific travel context. I managed to get an 11-pound Flame King delivered today, but the 5-pound version is a bit more elusive. It's a supply chain thing.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by <<B-Guy>>

I did add the access hole and ss screw to our last trailer just because I read about it and it sounded like a good idea, and also because the valve in that trailer (2005 Airstream Classic 30, bought used when 3 tears old) always seemed extra tight and that made me all the more nervous, allthough they always worked!

With our new van I adopted, the idea of using the Camco valve seal lube every dump or second dump if we were on a long trip! I haven't drilled the housings yet but likely will if I sense that the valve slides are getting tighter.

With our Airstream I had tried various products - baby oil, and olive oil. Someone told me it was not good to use mineral oil (expands the seal maybe?)

Wasn't sure what baby oil was so I switched and continued to use cheap veg oil or olive oil.

The Camco stuff uses coconut oil - no idea if it is better or not !

Well, a small data point:
Our erstwhile 2005 Airstream Interstate had a single black/gray tank, so it only had one valve. In the nine years we owned it, there was no sign of trouble.

Our current van has separate tanks (sadly), so it has two valves. The black valve started getting tighter after only a few years, and is still doing so (which is why I am replacing it). The gray valve, on the other hand, works as well as ever.

Now, given that I shower in the van each and every morning, the gray tank always has plenty of detergent in it, as did the Interstate's combined tank. The current black tank doesn't. It seems quite possible that this is why the black tank tightened but the gray and combined tanks didn't. I have religious objections to tank additives of any kind, but if I didn't, I would probably use cheap dishwashing soap.

[mkguitar]

I'd be thinking a fogging shot of spray can cooking oil ( pam) "down the hatch"


Not an issue for me ( yet)
Mike

[booster]

Originally Posted by avanti

Well, a small data point:
Our erstwhile 2005 Airstream Interstate had a single black/gray tank, so it only had one valve. In the nine years we owned it, there was no sign of trouble.

Our current van has separate tanks (sadly), so it has two valves. The black valve started getting tighter after only a few years, and is still doing so (which is why I am replacing it). The gray valve, on the other hand, works as well as ever.

Now, given that I shower in the van each and every morning, the gray tank always has plenty of detergent in it, as did the Interstate's combined tank. The current black tank doesn't. It seems quite possible that this is why the black tank tightened but the gray and combined tanks didn't. I have religious objections to tank additives of any kind, but if I didn't, I would probably use cheap dishwashing soap.

I think you are right about the soaps and detergents helping keep the valves free moving. We always let the grey tank run back into the black a bit before starting the pump and again when dumping and valves both stay working nice. If we don't do that the black will start to get stickier.



I often will full the tanks with water with a little Tide low sudsing laundry detergent for the winter and in the spring everything works better.

[Thevon]

Here is the link for lubricating waste tank valves.

http://www.trailerlife.com/tech/10-m...-drain-valves/

[Roadie]

Mine 02D200P lasted just 19 years without a problem! Then while 5000 miles from home & with a full tank it came out just as you described. I had it replaced in Nova Scotia in one hour of time after finding a great place. Turned into not such a big deal, no problems since.