Wander on highway

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by KurtFranz

Wind possibly

Thanks, but only on windy days. I am going to try different tires and rims. No difference and I have another alignment specialist to take it to.

[jjrbus]

And now for more of the story.

I purchased 4 supposdly oe steel rims from a salvage yard, they say from a 98 Savana 3500 but I did not see wheels on vehicle. The looked like the right rims and the lug pattern fit but the hub hole was slightly smaller, I cleaned up the rim and hub but rims would not go on, little difference I am sure I could have forced them on. Took them back and yard tried to help me and insisted that only one rim was used for several applications. From what I read they are right, no part number on the rims to verify anything.

Picked up 2 rims at a pick and pull near me $10 each which I removed from a 2000 GMC Savana 3500, mine is a 2001 Chevy express 3500. Brought them home and they go right on. Bought 2 decent used Bridgestone LT 245 75 16, 10 ply from a local place for $50 each mounted and balanced. I really do not like buying used tires!

Installed and even though the weather is crappy 20-30 mph winds, took a ride including 20 miles on the interstate. Right out of the driveway noticed a difference. The steering seems firmer. Highway is noticably better even with 20-30 mph winds and 2 suspect tires/wheels on the rear. Noticeably better but still not right, need to find a couple more wheels.

At this point it appears something is out of sync with the tires/wheels, I run 65 psi front and 80 psi rear. I bought the tires Bridgestone V Steel Rib LT 245 75 16 at Discount tire 2 years ago in Alabama and the aluminum rims off Amazon 1 1/2 years ago. Nothing was a what the heck is wrong after installing tires, wheels or shocks it sort of developed.

[KurtFranz]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

And now for more of the story.

I purchased 4 supposdly oe steel rims from a salvage yard, they say from a 98 Savana 3500 but I did not see wheels on vehicle. The looked like the right rims and the lug pattern fit but the hub hole was slightly smaller, I cleaned up the rim and hub but rims would not go on, little difference I am sure I could have forced them on. Took them back and yard tried to help me and insisted that only one rim was used for several applications. From what I read they are right, no part number on the rims to verify anything.

Picked up 2 rims at a pick and pull near me $10 each which I removed from a 2000 GMC Savana 3500, mine is a 2001 Chevy express 3500. Brought them home and they go right on. Bought 2 decent used Bridgestone LT 245 75 16, 10 ply from a local place for $50 each mounted and balanced. I really do not like buying used tires!

Installed and even though the weather is crappy 20-30 mph winds, took a ride including 20 miles on the interstate. Right out of the driveway noticed a difference. The steering seems firmer. Highway is noticably better even with 20-30 mph winds and 2 suspect tires/wheels on the rear. Noticeably better but still not right, need to find a couple more wheels.

At this point it appears something is out of sync with the tires/wheels, I run 65 psi front and 80 psi rear. I bought the tires Bridgestone V Steel Rib LT 245 75 16 at Discount tire 2 years ago in Alabama and the aluminum rims off Amazon 1 1/2 years ago. Nothing was a what the heck is wrong after installing tires, wheels or shocks it sort of developed.

It all went full circle ey? The entire issue began with the aftermarket wheels

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by KurtFranz

It all went full circle ey? The entire issue began with the aftermarket wheels

I do not know yet, could be the tires. I have read several reports that claimed changing tires was the solution, not one post on the wheels being the issue. Trying to figure best way to do this and hopefully get some reimbursement if it is the tires. 5 Bridgestone LT tires are not inexpensive!

[jjrbus]

Well it is official, after a very frustrating search for OE steel wheels I managed to pick up 4 yesterday at a pick and pull for $10 each. Sounds nice but this took several weeks and a few long wasted drives.

Went to Discount tire in Ft Myers FL and had 2 of the Bridgestone tires on the aluminum rim dismounted and mounted and balanced on the OE steel rims. Waaaay different on the highway. Still not right as have the 2 aluminum wheels on the rear.

Aluminum wheels were the culprit!

[jjrbus]

Have all the aftermarket aluminum wheels off the RT and the OE steel wheels installed with the 2 year old 10K Bridgestones on them. Took it on the highway for about 30 miles, night and day, completely different to drive, steering feels tight and responsive, no more wander.

Aftermarket wheels have been the problem all along.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Have all the aftermarket aluminum wheels off the RT and the OE steel wheels installed with the 2 year old 10K Bridgestones on them. Took it on the highway for about 30 miles, night and day, completely different to drive, steering feels tight and responsive, no more wander.

Aftermarket wheels have been the problem all along.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is good information as it is the first, at least the I have seen, that we had to deal with the question of putting the wrong offset on a van that is offset too much positive. We normally see vans with wheels that are offset too much negative, like the standard aluminum wheels that Roadtrek used on the 2003 up Chevies.


It appears that having 28mm positive error direction causes more issues than having 34mm too much negative does. There are lots of the too much negative vans running around out there, but they don't report the horrible handling that you did, although there probably is a degradation in them also that some notice and some don't.


Perhaps someone with a 2003+ Chevy will want your now orphaned wheels, which appear to be clones of the +28mm offset OEM Silverado wheels that also can be used on the vans.

[jjrbus]

I find it frustrating when people post about an issue and we never hear from them again so always try to keep posting to the end.

One thing that was never clear to me is the off set. Sizemywheels says the OE steel rims have a 18mm offset and other sites usually claim 25mm. They do not mention if positive or negative.

My camber caster is maxed out and wondering if the difference in offset will make that go away? I won't be going for another alignment till I get the new coil springs in which I can't get to for a couple months.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

I find it frustrating when people post about an issue and we never hear from them again so always try to keep posting to the end.

One thing that was never clear to me is the off set. Sizemywheels says the OE steel rims have a 18mm offset and other sites usually claim 25mm. They do not mention if positive or negative.

My camber caster is maxed out and wondering if the difference in offset will make that go away? I won't be going for another alignment till I get the new coil springs in which I can't get to for a couple months.

All you need to do is measure the offset on one of your OEM wheels now that you have them. Once the wheel is off it only takes a couple of minutes, a tape measure or ruler and 3' straight edge of some sort (2X4 works well). It would be interesting to know for all of us.


It might make a difference in the alignment as it has different mechanical advantage on the spring so it could be sitting lower now which is what would change the geometry, primarily the camber.


Old rear drives are often maxed out as the front end frames move some over time. That is why you see the offset bushings sold for most of the models.

[jjrbus]

Thought I would start with You tube and the aftermarket aluminum rims as they are advertised as 28mm offset and have +28 stamped into them. I have measured these several times and keep coming up with 26mm. I also have an OE Chevy classic aluminum rim as a spare and will measure that when I change it over to a steel rim, which I am looking to buy. I won't get to it for a few weeks and hopefully will not forget. [IMG][/IMG]

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Thought I would start with You tube and the aftermarket aluminum rims as they are advertised as 28mm offset and have +28 stamped into them. I have measured these several times and keep coming up with 26mm. I also have an OE Chevy classic aluminum rim as a spare and will measure that when I change it over to a steel rim, which I am looking to buy. I won't get to it for a few weeks and hopefully will not forget. [IMG][/IMG]

Not surprised about the 2mm difference in offset in the aluminum wheels as it probably just their "acceptable" range.


They probably just machine the mounting flange until it cleans up and take what they get. Close tolerancing don't seem to be very common in the aftermarket wheels, and especially the import ones lately. When you start paying in the many hundreds of dollars for wheels they probably will be very nice and dense forged material and machined accurately to better specs, but the cost is very high.


Seeing how it compares to a stock steel on will be good.

[jjrbus]

I was complaining about some parts issues, at the time it was a new gas filter bought at one of the parts stores. The threads on the filter were off just a bit so the flare would not fully seat. Put it on and checked and it was OK, driving down the street it would leak.

Talking with a knowledgeable friend he claims the over seas manufactures are not maintaining their machinery so everything is a bit off. Recently bought a camber caster kit from NAPA and the discs/cams were just a bit too big so would not fit. Not the $12 kit one of the more expensive ones. The kit looked cheap, stamped metal cams/discs vs the Chevy ones that look to be a much higher quality, Chevy look machined not like you bought them out of the bins at Tractor Supply.

[jjrbus]

One thing leads to another and then something else happens. I believe I got these wheels off a 2000 Savana 3500 but not sure. Close to my 02C200P anyways, Had to measure offset with the tire on which You tube says is ok. My eyes are not the best for those tiny little lines but looks like a 28 mm offset which is what I believe the internet claims. I also have a OE classic chevy truck rim for a spare which I will check when I get the chance. So looks like offset was not an issue in wandering.

[IMG][/IMG]

[jjrbus]

I never mounted this rim on my RT. I had it as a spare it is stamped GM with a date of 11/15/07. The offset is 9mm give or take a mm. [IMG][/IMG]

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

I never mounted this rim on my RT. I had it as a spare it is stamped GM with a date of 11/15/07. The offset is 9mm give or take a mm. [IMG][/IMG]

Interesting, especially the 9mm if it is positive and not negative.



GM used that style on a lot vehicles over the years so probably quite a few offsets around. A +9 would be very close to what my 96 Buick Roadmaster is, which has a near identical front suspension as a 1500 pickup of that period. Many/most of the aftermarket wheels of the era are zero or -6 although I think Campskunk said his 2004 Chevy came with +8mm wheels IIRC.



I wonder if it is a real GM wheel or not, as they commonly would have a part number and often and offset stamped on the inside of the wheel. The GM may be an aftermarket piece that identifies the brand it fits.

[jjrbus]

It looks like a real GM logo. There is no offset stamped in the wheel that I see but there is a part number, GM C/N 9594142. This is what comes up on a search.

It will not copy and paste for some reason?? But is GM wheels.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

It looks like a real GM logo. There is no offset stamped in the wheel that I see but there is a part number, GM C/N 9594142. This is what comes up on a search.

It will not copy and paste for some reason?? But is GM wheels.

The one that is on ebay shows it as a +28mm wheel that is 6.5" wide.

[jjrbus]

The aftermarket aluminum wheels I have are 28mm offset it is cast into the rim +28. This is stamped GM with GM part # stamped into it? I could be off 1 or 2 mm but I am not off 20mm.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

The aftermarket aluminum wheels I have are 28mm offset it is cast into the rim +28. This is stamped GM with GM part # stamped into it? I could be off 1 or 2 mm but I am not off 20mm.

That is really odd because all the information I can find for that p/n indicates +28mm offset. The Hollandar crossreference number wheel also shows +28mm.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by booster

That is really odd because all the information I can find for that p/n indicates +28mm offset. The Hollandar crossreference number wheel also shows +28mm.

It's so hard to get good help today, I neglected to divide the # by 2. Would you like fries with that measurement?