Wander on highway

[jjrbus]

Mulling things over and searching the net, it appears the rear leaf spring was used 1996 to 2020 so sourcing a OE spring should not be an issue. That is if I am reading everything of course.

Looking at the RT and at least the grey water tank will have to be removed or min loosened up to get out of the way.

Then I see something that could be big problem. The front of the leaf spring is in a bracket that is riveted to the frame and the bolt that holds the spring in place, has a nut out where it can be seen but inside where it is not visible appears to be a stud. Carriage bolt would be best case scenario but sure looks like a stud head not a carriage bolt. Anyone have any experience with this?? [IMG][/IMG]

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Mulling things over and searching the net, it appears the rear leaf spring was used 1996 to 2020 so sourcing a OE spring should not be an issue. That is if I am reading everything of course.

Looking at the RT and at least the grey water tank will have to be removed or min loosened up to get out of the way.

Then I see something that could be big problem. The front of the leaf spring is in a bracket that is riveted to the frame and the bolt that holds the spring in place, has a nut out where it can be seen but inside where it is not visible appears to be a stud. Carriage bolt would be best case scenario but sure looks like a stud head not a carriage bolt. Anyone have any experience with this?? [IMG][/IMG]

Can't speak for your model, but those normally would be a hex nut and there would be a hole through one side of the frame so you can get to it. Of course on a Roadtrek is may have something in the way like skirting or such.


On our O7 full body van it is accessed through the storage area in front of the right rear wheel and that side and I don't know about the other side as I haven't looked.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by booster

Can't speak for your model, but those normally would be a hex nut and there would be a hole through one side of the frame so you can get to it. Of course on a Roadtrek is may have something in the way like skirting or such.


On our O7 full body van it is accessed through the storage area in front of the right rear wheel and that side and I don't know about the other side as I haven't looked.

Thanks, grey water tank is in the way of seeing anything. I checked both sides with an endoscope, I cannot get a clear view but definitely not a hex head inside there. There is an access hole. I have scoured the internet and can find no mention of anything other than hexhead nut and bolt.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Thanks, grey water tank is in the way of seeing anything. I checked both sides with an endoscope, I cannot get a clear view but definitely not a hex head inside there. There is an access hole. I have scoured the internet and can find no mention of anything other than hexhead nut and bolt.

It is very possible you are getting fooled by the bolt head shape, as it might be a flanged head, eg a bolt with a built in round washer on it. The round would be up against the frame so might be confusing.


The nut is also very likely to be rusty so the hex might not show well. It is quite common to have to use a hammer to get a socket on those kine of nuts or bolts after that many years.

[booster]

Does this look like your bracket that is riveted in?


https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=13610&jsn=934


I so, they are available so replaceable.


There is a real possibility that there are access holes for this piece also through the frame as the studs could be spotwelded to the frame in the original build but use regular nuts and bolts for the replacement.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by booster

Does this look like your bracket that is riveted in?


https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=13610&jsn=934


I so, they are available so replaceable.


There is a real possibility that there are access holes for this piece also through the frame as the studs could be spotwelded to the frame in the original build but use regular nuts and bolts for the replacement.

Yes looks the same as part that is in there. Illustration shows a round hole on the inside which would rule out carriage bolt? I hope I am mistaken on bolt head. Will check tomorrow for access holes for bracket.

I have looked at every spring replacement video on the internet and no mention of this.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Yes looks the same as part that is in there. Illustration shows a round hole on the inside which would rule out carriage bolt? I hope I am mistaken on bolt head. Will check tomorrow for access holes for bracket.

I have looked at every spring replacement video on the internet and no mention of this.

It appeared from Rock Auto that the cutaway is different in the spring mount than the passenger or cargo vans, so that would probably be why no videos or information around to find. They would be serviced, most likely, in a service garage by full time mechanics.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by booster

It appeared from Rock Auto that the cutaway is different in the spring mount than the passenger or cargo vans, so that would probably be why no videos or information around to find. They would be serviced, most likely, in a service garage by full time mechanics.

Had a thought, with the pain these look like to remove would buying new springs and disassembling the spring pack in place leaving the long leaf with the eyes in place and replace the rest with new be a possible option?? Your laughing aren't you.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Had a thought, with the pain these look like to remove would buying new springs and disassembling the spring pack in place leaving the long leaf with the eyes in place and replace the rest with new be a possible option?? Your laughing aren't you.

No way would I do that and leave the old bushings and one sagged leaf in place plus trying to get new leafs in place with clamps tight enough and slides, if used, is really tough under the vehicle.


The bracket I put the link for earlier is used all the way into the 2000s in the newer version cutaways also, it appears.


My 2007 factory service manual doesn't specifically address cutaways, but in the text for removing rear leaf springs it says to remove the bracket get the whole assembly out.


My guess is that there have to be access holes in the frame to get to nuts on that bracket, and they probably will be very tight and very rusty. Long wrenches/pipes and gloves to prevent the likely skinned up hands will be in order unless you have a powerful impact wrench.

[jjrbus]

I find very little that specifies the Cut Away. I have checked the leaf springs available every way I can think of to make sure they are for a Cut Away. Looking up by vin shows the same part number as the other ways I have looked.

I just gave up on my 20+ year old 1/2" pneumatic impact and bought an 18V 1/2" Ryobi impact. Breaks the lug nuts free on the RT with little effort so hopefully will work out. Claims 600 ft lb of breaking torque.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

I find very little that specifies the Cut Away. I have checked the leaf springs available every way I can think of to make sure they are for a Cut Away. Looking up by vin shows the same part number as the other ways I have looked.

I just gave up on my 20+ year old 1/2" pneumatic impact and bought an 18V 1/2" Ryobi impact. Breaks the lug nuts free on the RT with little effort so hopefully will work out. Claims 600 ft lb of breaking torque.

It will be interesting to see if a cordless can do it, or not. They are getting better over time, but rusty stuff can be very tough.


Suggestion if you do need to reach into the frame with a socket on an extension. You might want to use some electrical or other tape to tape the socket to the extension. There have been quite a lot sockets lost when they stick on the nut and then come off the extension or if the drive end of the socket catches the frame hole on the way out. Many times the roll to who knows where in the frame and can't be retrieved, and sometime you can get lucky with magnet and salvage them.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by booster

It will be interesting to see if a cordless can do it, or not. They are getting better over time, but rusty stuff can be very tough.


Suggestion if you do need to reach into the frame with a socket on an extension. You might want to use some electrical or other tape to tape the socket to the extension. There have been quite a lot sockets lost when they stick on the nut and then come off the extension or if the drive end of the socket catches the frame hole on the way out. Many times the roll to who knows where in the frame and can't be retrieved, and sometime you can get lucky with magnet and salvage them.

A long time ago I surrendered to the nut and no longer try to use brute force to remove and have become quite skilled with an angle grinder.

My van has rust but it has not reached the point of being structural rust yet. I would like to get things done so I can under coat with oil. While I have the tires off I should coat that area while it is open. I have never used a nut cracker and wondering if one might be a good idea for this project.

The thought of working on my back is not very appealing, I have been looking for a rent a lift, there use to be one in my area but I cannot find and the closest one is on the other side of FL now. They charge about $45 hour now.

[jjrbus]

Ah ha!! Called a point drive bolt has a hex on the threaded end so all the work can be done from one end!



[IMG][/IMG]

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Ah ha!! Called a point drive bolt has a hex on the threaded end so all the work can be done from one end!



[IMG][/IMG]

That is really odd, never seen that setup on that kind of application.


Even if it lets you get the nut off, you still have the bolt holding the spring in place so that bolt still needs to be removable.


These may be the bolts in question. They are about 3 5/16" long so close in that dimension. 15mm diameter (.59").


https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...pt=10353&jsn=9


Those bolts look like they have an allen head or torx on the head end which whould be hidden so can't tell. I can't imagine they don't have some kind of drive method on the head as they are so tall.



The hex on the end of the bolt may be there just to make it easier at the factory to do it all from the outside.


Bummer is that you can't use the hex and turn the nut with impact wrench at the same time.

[jjrbus]

Thing had me baffled, must have something to do with manufacturing, I spent long time on net looking for replacement bolt and cannot find anyplace. GM only shows a regular metric hex bolt for replacement.

For me using impact would require cutting access hole in storage compartment wall.

This info could save me from having to pull the black and freshwater tank. With some wire, string and tape, wobble joints and a couple $$ in the swear jar I think I can get the old bolt out and new one in. Driver side there is no way to access the area so grey tank will have to come out.

Now have to make decision do I want to leave springs sprung like so many others do or replace them.

[jjrbus]

They do sell bolt but GM says does not fit my van. https://parts.matickchevy.com/p/Chev.../11612281.html

[jjrbus]

When I enter vin on another site says it fits. [IMG][/IMG]

[booster]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

When I enter vin on another site says it fits. [IMG][/IMG]

I was running into the same thing and I think it has to do with cutaway, full bodied differences and superseding. I didn't have full VIN so that makes it worse, of course. I would be quite certain that is the correct bolt. The aftermarket ones appear to be just replacing it with an off the shelf grade 8 bolt which is also OK but no hex on the threaded end.



I did look at the Air-Lift site for bags and they have a note about fitting only the Express van cutaways with a C frame, not a boxed frame. I found a 2003 brochure for the cutaways which list a boxed frame so that may be an issue for bags if you go that way.


Is your frame boxed or C style? If it is C style it would make the bracket removal easier if it is removable as well as the bolt removal being easier.



New brackets can be made for the kit as the only difference is the attachment to frame for the top connection. I made new ones for ours just to make them stronger, and because I can very easily at home.


The bag kit is 5000# capacity and you can get with the center Timbren type overload bumper inside them to support the vehicle if the air is lost. That is a good feature to have, I even changed out our standard bags when they came out with that feature.

[jjrbus]

I had air bags in my bus conversion and replaced the ones in my Toyota RV. I was dealing with ok springs, not flattened and can't help but wonder if the money and effort would be better spent on new springs. With some solenoids and tubing and such the bags can be used to level, also suspect there would not be much movement in the chevy leaf springs. I did need to modify the spring brackets on the Toyota RV big job not having lots of tools.

Learning lots more than I ever wanted to know about alignments and springs and such.

I have the box frame which leaves me with some concerns on looking for parts. I have researched the GM springs every way I can think of and believe I have the correct part # But always that little bit of doubt. Shows GM 15225237 some site show superseded by 84205627. If I buy the springs I will buy from the dealer, no shipping and easy return! Shows around $300 each side. Which is cheaper than the Dorman 8 leaf. Then of course the decision to buy the 8 or 10 leaf is still up in the air. [IMG][/IMG]

[KurtFranz]

Gee this has really gone down the rabbit hole... All of this started when the rims were changed right?