UHG

[mira1]

I finally got my charging problem analized turns out my under hood generator is faulty and very expense to replace, My solar panels do a pretty good job of keeping batteries up in good sun light as I don,t do a lot of boondocking I WONDER If a 1000 watt invertor generator would charge the batteries when they get low if I decide to do some boondocking I have 2, 200 amp hour lithium batteries. The reason as I pick a 1000watt is do weight
Thanks Joe

[GeorgeRa]

Assuming you are relating to a portable generator like Honda which is inverter based. Honda 1000i / 900W running will potentially give you about 60A charging current via an appropriate charger. So yes, it will work. I have 1000i Honda and it worked for me.

[ProB]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

Assuming you are relating to a portable generator like Honda which is inverter based. Honda 1000i / 900W running will potentially give you about 60A charging current via an appropriate charger. So yes, it will work. I have 1000i Honda and it worked for me.

Will the high current draw when charging 2 lithium batteries be an issue for the Honda (or any generator)? The 2 batteries could draw 100A or more and the Honda puts out only 60.

I've always wondered what happens to a generator when there's more demand for current than the rated output.

[markopolo]

Generally, if a generator gets overloaded then it quits.

A 1000W Honda has a DC output but only 8A. George's post was about powering an AC charger using the Honda.

The continuous rating of the Honda 1000W is only 900W so I think it's pushing it to run a 60A DC charger off it. It would have to be a very efficient PFC charger.

If you use a 900W continuous AC generator like the Honda to power a 45A DC charger to charge 200Ah or 400AH of low SOC lithium batteries then the batteries will charge at a 45Ah or a bit lower rate. The charger will get warm but it should all work as designed.

[ProB]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Generally, if a generator gets overloaded then it quits.

A 1000W Honda has a DC output but only 8A. George's post was about powering an AC charger using the Honda.

The continuous rating of the Honda 1000W is only 900W so I think it's pushing it to run a 60A DC charger off it. It would have to be a very efficient PFC charger.

If you use a 900W continuous AC generator like the Honda to power a 45A DC charger to charge 200Ah or 400AH of low SOC lithium batteries then the batteries will charge at a 45Ah or a bit lower rate. The charger will get warm but it should all work as designed.

Oh, right; I missed the part where George said "appropriate charger"; presumably a 60A converter/charger.

To the OP, how much is the repair? And do you know what the problem is and what caused it?

[hbn7hj]

A Honda 1000 watt generator will not power a 60 amp 12 volt charger. I have tried it and it does not work. It will power a 40 amp charger.

[mira1]

Originally Posted by ProB

Oh, right; I missed the part where George said "appropriate charger"; presumably a 60A converter/charger.

To the OP, how much is the repair? And do you know what the problem is and what caused it?

When I drive the voltage don't increase stays at 13.2v when plugged into shore power the voltage after a while will go to 13.6-13.7,when using solar panels the voltage will increase to approx. 13.4v from 13.2v. Took van to dealer and he said problem was the generator(altenator) as he wasn't getting any voltage at the blue wire on the balmor regulator. Did a search and price from Nation Start Altenators out of MO.was over $2300.00 in US funds, me being a CDN that would run me over $3000.00 that price include regulator and wiring .As I don't do a lot of boondock I thought I could just plug van into a small gas generator Joe

[mkguitar]

Originally Posted by ProB

The 2 batteries could draw 100A or more and the Honda puts out only 60.

the honda 1000w outputs a max of 8.3 amps at 120 volts AC ( ohms law)

IF that were converted efficiently to 12 VDC the max could be 83 amps

conversion is likely to consume or waste some of that capacity- depending on what is used to convert ac to dc


Mike

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Generally, if a generator gets overloaded then it quits.

A 1000W Honda has a DC output but only 8A. George's post was about powering an AC charger using the Honda.

The continuous rating of the Honda 1000W is only 900W so I think it's pushing it to run a 60A DC charger off it. It would have to be a very efficient PFC charger.

If you use a 900W continuous AC generator like the Honda to power a 45A DC charger to charge 200Ah or 400AH of low SOC lithium batteries then the batteries will charge at a 45Ah or a bit lower rate. The charger will get warm but it should all work as designed.

Indeed, 60A could be a wishful thinking, Xantrex 60A spec show >80% efficiency. Victron has 50A charger but doesn’t list its efficiency.

I used my Honda 1000i on the boat using either 20A or 30A older Trucharge charger, not near Honda's max.

This unit popped in my recent search, $199, amazing 4.3 out 363 ratings so it must work for a while, could better rating than Onan. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sportsman...oved/708218539

[markopolo]

Starrski recently posted that Roadtreks with the 2nd alternator, Balmar & Ecotrek batteries need the 12V AGM battery to be at 12 volts or more for things to work. --> https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post111637

From the PDFs he posted:

Check that the AGM battery is not dead. This is either located under the chassis or under the hood depending on the Model of your coach. This is not the engine starting battery. This battery (batteries) must have at least 11 volts in it for the Under hood Generator (GU) to turn on and put out charge.
i. if the AGM is dead, the BalMar (regulator that works in tandem with the underhood generator) will not see a battery and so will not tell the GU to turn on and start charging, so still… dead. The only way to bring it back will be to jump power to the AGM to get the BalMar and GU to come back on line,................

Find that AGM & make sure it's charged.

[ProB]

Originally Posted by mira1

Did a search and price from Nation Start Altenators out of MO.was over $2300.00 in US funds, me being a CDN that would run me over $3000.00 that price include regulator and wiring .As I don't do a lot of boondock I thought I could just plug van into a small gas generator Joe

Wow! That IS expensive.

Without saying it doesn't look like it's much more than a normal alternator, I'd wonder if it could not be repaired for much less. (Assuming that it's not a dead AGM battery that's fooling it as another poster has just mentioned.)

i.e., what failed component in it could be worth than few hundred dollars, let alone even $100...

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by ProB

Wow! That IS expensive.

Without saying it doesn't look like it's much more than a normal alternator, I'd wonder if it could not be repaired for much less. (Assuming that it's not a dead AGM battery that's fooling it as another poster has just mentioned.)

i.e., what failed component in it could be worth than few hundred dollars, let alone even $100...

Agreed. Take it to a local alternator shop and see if they can/will fix it.

[booster]

I am sure Nations could fix it, as I think that is a big part of their business, if it is the alternator. Could also be the Balmar, or the low battery as others have mentioned. Need to find out first. Most auto parts stores can test the alternator for free, just be sure they know there is no regulator in it.

[Yoshimura]

Originally Posted by mira1

When I drive the voltage don't increase stays at 13.2v when plugged into shore power the voltage after a while will go to 13.6-13.7,when using solar panels the voltage will increase to approx. 13.4v from 13.2v. Took van to dealer and he said problem was the generator(altenator) as he wasn't getting any voltage at the blue wire on the balmor regulator. Did a search and price from Nation Start Altenators out of MO.was over $2300.00 in US funds, me being a CDN that would run me over $3000.00 that price include regulator and wiring .As I don't do a lot of boondock I thought I could just plug van into a small gas generator Joe

If I was you, I will first investigate what is wrong with your UHG. And if you don't get any voltage on the blue wire, the problem is probably the Balmar or a disconnected wire. Or it can be simply be a blown fuse!!!

Check the Balmar manual on how to check the regulator. There are 4 wires to verify. Let us know if you need assitance.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/14...?page=3#manual

[mira1]

I took my van to a altenator and starter repair shop and they checked the altenator and said there was no problem with it, the problem is that the balmar regulator is faulty since it is mounted under the van I decided it was a good time to move it under the hood. I now can we what cause the problem the connection on regulator were all corroded where the wires go to.
Ordered a new balmar regulator will update when new regulator arrives.
Joe

[RVB Fan07]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

A Honda 1000 watt generator will not power a 60 amp 12 volt charger. I have tried it and it does not work. It will power a 40 amp charger.

Two questions:

First: Is it correct to assume that:
(a)-So Honda 1000i generator would generate AC to the RV shore power hookup
(b)-coach lithium batteries would charge from shore power hookup AC

Second: Why would converter/charger (with stated amperage higher than the input Amperage) be unable to charge lithium batteries? Should it not simply pass through whatever amperage it receives?

I have thought of same setup, instead of noisy generators.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by RVB Fan07

Two questions:

First: Is it correct to assume that:
(a)-So Honda 1000i generator would generate AC to the RV shore power hookup
(b)-coach lithium batteries would charge from shore power hookup AC

Second: Why would converter/charger (with stated amperage higher than the input Amperage) be unable to charge lithium batteries? Should it not simply pass through whatever amperage it receives?

I have thought of same setup, instead of noisy generators.

A DC charger is rated by it’s 12 volt output current. 60 amps DC works out to 700-800 watts. The Honda 1000 will power it for a few minutes but then it quits. It cannot put out enough AC power to cover that and the efficiency loss. It would probably power a 45 amp converter but I did not try that. I tried to power a 60 amp lithium charger directly, not through the shore power connection.

A converter does not pass through it’s input current. It converts it to 12 volts then charges the battery. Clear?

I don’t have the specs with me but the little Honda only puts out 6-7 amps AC at 120 volts.

[RVB Fan07]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

A DC charger is rated by it’s 12 volt output current. 60 amps DC works out to 700-800 watts. The Honda 1000 will power it for a few minutes but then it quits. It cannot put out enough AC power to cover that and the efficiency loss. It would probably power a 45 amp converter but I did not try that. I tried to power a 60 amp lithium charger directly, not through the shore power connection.

A converter does not pass through it’s input current. It converts it to 12 volts then charges the battery. Clear?

I don’t have the specs with me but the little Honda only puts out 6-7 amps AC at 120 volts.

Thanks for your reply.

I have followup questions:
1- Are you transferring power from Honda to lithium battery via converter or DC to DC charger?

2- If via the built-in RV converter (i.e., “AC outlet in Honda” to “RV shore power plug in” to “ lithium battery” as AC), what would be limitation?

3- If via a DC to DC charger, how would you hook Honda to Lithium batteries?
(a) is there a DC outlet in Honda capable of outputting 45/65 A DC? I thought it was limited to 8 A DC, and most power was on the AC side with up to 7 A at 110/120V. Therefore, in for Honda to work it would have to work through AC.

(b) Do the DC to DC chargers require the input amperage to match that of the stated amperage in order to operate? I would have thought that the stated amperage is the maximum it can transfer and not required operational amperage. Therefore, if you input less A than the stated A, it would simply charge less A. Am I missing something here?

Thanks

[hbn7hj]

I have followup questions:
1- Are you transferring power from Honda to lithium battery via converter or DC to DC charger?

Neither. From Honda to AC powered charger to lithium

2- If via the built-in RV converter (i.e., “AC outlet in Honda” to “RV shore power plug in” to “ lithium battery” as AC), what would be limitation?

The designed power output of the converter till it exceeded the power of the Honda

3- If via a DC to DC charger, how would you hook Honda to Lithium batteries?

You don’t

(a) is there a DC outlet in Honda capable of outputting 45/65 A DC?

No

I thought it was limited to 8 A DC, and most power was on the AC side with up to 7 A at 110/120V. Therefore, in for Honda to work it would have to work through AC.

Correct

(b) Do the DC to DC chargers require the input amperage to match that of the stated amperage in order to operate?

A DC to DC charger grabs whatever amps it needs to generate the desired output and voltage.

I would have thought that the stated amperage is the maximum it can transfer and not required operational amperage.

You don’t understand how a DC to DC charger works. It can take 15 amps at 12 volts, turn it into AC, boost it to 14.4 volts and turn it back to 10 amps DC at 14.4 volts. The watts in minus conversion loss will equal watts out

Therefore, if you input less A than the stated A, it would simply charge less A. Am I missing something here?

Yes, you are missing something. It will increase the input amps to make the watts in equal conversion loss plus output watts.

These comments are open to correction or clarification by anyone

Thanks