Traveling with Cool Cat Air Conditioner

[Bud]

Ok, I'm taking this thread back for a moment as the op.

I was concerned traveling with an older, 16 year old Cool Cat. I didn't think that there was any good solution to fixing or replacing it 3000 miles from home. I think that I have come up with an a/c solution that I can pull off in very short order while traveling! And permanent?

For the first 6 years the third seat of my 05/04 190P was removed, flying machine instead. Then I placed the third seat back and just sit stuff on it. Prior to leaving I will remove the seat and back cushions leaving the box with drawer. I'll also make a fitting for the a/c exhaust out the window next to the third seat, inexpensive and I'll be ready.

When the Cool Cat gives up, I'll walk into a Home Depot or the like and purchase about a 10K btu portable a/c with one or two hoses. Should work fine, then decide to use the Cool Cat location as storage?

Is this doable?

Bud

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by Bud

Ok, I'm taking this thread back for a moment as the op.

I was concerned traveling with an older, 16 year old Cool Cat. I didn't think that there was any good solution to fixing or replacing it 3000 miles from home. I think that I have come up with an a/c solution that I can pull off in very short order while traveling! And permanent?

For the first 6 years the third seat of my 05/04 190P was removed, flying machine instead. Then I placed the third seat back and just sit stuff on it. Prior to leaving I will remove the seat and back cushions leaving the box with drawer. I'll also make a fitting for the a/c exhaust out the window next to the third seat, inexpensive and I'll be ready.

When the Cool Cat gives up, I'll walk into a Home Depot or the like and purchase about a 10K btu portable a/c with one or two hoses. Should work fine, then decide to use the Cool Cat location as storage?

Is this doable?

Bud

If you are going that route, get the 2 hose. The 1 hose uses conditioned air to cool the condenser coil, replacing that conditioned air with outside air. Very inefficient and reduces effective cooling capacity.

On TDY near Tollgate OR, taking a day off from riding the motorcycle.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by SteveJ

If you are going that route, get the 2 hose. The 1 hose uses conditioned air to cool the condenser coil, replacing that conditioned air with outside air. Very inefficient and reduces effective cooling capacity.

On TDY near Tollgate OR, taking a day off from riding the motorcycle.

Thanks Steve, you're about, near 3000 miles from home it appears.

The 2 hose is a little trickier, but doable. I have not investigated but the 2 hose units may be a little too? large. I can't see where this would not be a 'good' permanent solution with a lot storage left from the Cool Cat. And adding some storage solution over the new portable a/c unit.

This seems too darn easy? And while traveling?

I Had to have the third seat 14 years ago, now it Again seems indispensable all over again.

Bud

[SteveJ]

Originally Posted by Bud

Thanks Steve, you're about, near 3000 miles from home it appears.

The 2 hose is a little trickier, but doable. I have not investigated but the 2 hose units may be a little too? large. I can't see where this would not be a 'good' permanent solution with a lot storage left from the Cool Cat. And adding some storage solution over the new portable a/c unit.

This seems too darn easy? And while traveling?

I Had to have the third seat 14 years ago, now it Again seems indispensable all over again.

Bud

Needs do evolve.

I'm actually on my way home but it will be mid August before I get there. Turn around point was at Goldendale WA, driveway camping at the son and DIL's place.

[Roadtreker357]

To bring some finality to this thread, I will summarize this project: removing and reinstalling the air conditioner cover on a 07C210P.

• •
  • 1/4" screw holes were drilled in the air conditioner cover and roof to accommodate fasteners.
  • • Metal rivet nuts were used to fasten the cover. These nuts are not easily removable, other than grinding off the flange or drilling out the hole
  • • 10-32 screws, 7/8" long were used on the cover
  • • One rivet nut spun, so screw could not be removed. cut off the screw head with hacksaw blade in hand to remove cover.
  • • Used abrasive disc to grind down the rivet nut flange and push it into the roof cavity
  • • Not all the screws were snugged against the cover. Bottomed out on something. Washers under some of the screw heads were, therefore, loose
  • • Purchased 3/4" SS 10-32 screws to replace the screws that would not tighten on the cover
  • • Purchased 1/4" diameter EPDM well nuts, and 3/4" #6-32 SS screws to use now only where the rivet nut was removed. Others saved for later use.
  • • Smeared a little Dicor self leveling sealant around each rivet nut and the well nut. Serves two purposes: 1. Seal around the nuts, and 2. Help keep the nuts from spinning when the screws are removed in the future. Wait two days to install cover for Dicor to 80% cure (did not want the sealant to adhere to the cover)
  • • To help remove screws in the future, some Never Seize was also applied to the threads.

--
Tom 07C210P
Louisiana

[Roadtreker357]

Last message to summarize this project, removing and reinstalling the air conditioner cover on a 07C210P.
• 1/4" screw holes were factory drilled in cover and roof to accommodate fasteners.
• Metal rivet nuts were used to fasten the cover. These nuts are not removable, other than grinding off the flange or drilling out the hole
• 10-32 screws, 7/8" long were used on the cover
• One rivet nut spun, so screw could not be removed. cut off the screw head with hacksaw blade in hand to remove cover.
• Used abrasive disc to grind down the rivet nut flange and push it into the roof cavity
• Not all the screws could be snugged against the cover. Bottomed out on something. Washers under some of the screw heads were, therefore, loose
• Purchased 3/4" SS 10-32 screws to replace the screws that would not tighten on the cover
• Purchased 1/4" diameter EPDM well nuts, and 3/4" #6-32 SS screws to use for now only where the rivet nut was removed. Others saved for later use.
• Smeared a little Dicor self leveling sealant around each rivet nut and the well nut. Serves two purposes: 1. Seal around the nuts, and 2. Help keep the nuts from spinning when the screws are removed in the future. Wait two days to install cover for Dicor to 80% cure (did not want the sealant to adhere to the cover)
• To help remove screws in the future, some Never Seize was also applied to the threads.
--
Tom 07C210P
Louisiana

[Lindadoglady]

Hi, i have an 08 190 pop. There is solar on the rear part of roof...how much has to be opened up to get to ac...are there any pic. I could look at. Thanks. Its blowing hot and cool. It did this last year and seemed to correct itself..????. Linda

[Roadtreker357]

I saved this post that some unknown to me person posted. It is helpful to me, but not identical to working on the 210.

[Roadtreker357]

If any of you reading this have removed the air conditioner from a 210, I would like to know how you dealt with the two 3" ducts that go from the A/C chamber wall and through another wall for the small rectangular ducts that blow downward to the bed. These ducts are about 2" and 3" long and heavily sealed with black sealant on both ends (where exiting the A/C chamber and entering the RT).

I am thinking just cutting the ducts in the middle, then for reassembly using a Fernco rubber coupling where cut.

[GroupB]

I left them alone when I replaced the A/C.

[Roadtreker357]

Originally Posted by GroupB

I left them alone when I replaced the A/C.

What year and model is your RT?
That was a Cool Cat heat pump removed?

I have not tried to remove the A/C, but it looked to me like those 3" ducts were attached to the A/C, instead of to a shroud around the A/C

[GroupB]

https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...ment-9454.html