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09-19-2016, 07:33 PM
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#1
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northern VA, USA
Posts: 195
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Trailer Brake Controller Bypass?
So, as a newbie to the RV world, I am mystified by the trailer brake controller that sits under the steering column in my 2004 Roadtrek 190 Popular on the Chevy Express 3500 chassis. I plan on never towing anything. I notice sometimes a red light comes on this controller. I find it a little annoying... Is there a way I can just bypass this thing? Is it just pulling a fuse(s)? Is there a downside to bypassing it?
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09-19-2016, 08:42 PM
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#2
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 246
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Interestingly I just noticed mine doing the same thing.
Waiting for an answer from those that know.
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09-19-2016, 11:23 PM
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#3
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 677
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From another site
Quote:
It sounds like there is a short to the blue wire (brake output) on the brake controller. This can be caused by corrosion in or behind the vehicle and trailer side connectors. Power from the 12 volt circuit at the vehicle side connector could be jumping to the brake output circuit. This would make the brake controller think there is power being applied and when the trailer is connected it can send full power back to the brakes.
To eliminate the brake controller as the problem, cut the blue wire from behind the brake controller and test it with a circuit tester like # 3808. It should show power when you apply the manual override but if it shows power without the override engaged then there is a short inside the controller and it will need to be replaced.
You can also check the red wire with the circuit tester. It should only show power when you step on the brake pedal.
If you eliminate the brake controller as the problem, you can also try resetting the controller. It has to be mounted in such a way so as to work properly. Follow these steps to set up the brake controller:
A. Connect the trailer to the tow vehicle for this adjustment. If a load leveling hitch system is used, it should be connected and operational. Locate the tow vehicle and trailer on a flat level surface. Make sure the tow vehicle stop lamps are operating correctly and disconnect the tow vehicle/trailer electrical connection.
B. Adjust the gain wheel to its maximum setting.
C. Depress the brake pedal far enough to turn on the vehicle stop-lamps. Hold this position.
D. Pull the pendulum leveling arm toward the red indicator light. The red indicator light should illuminate bright red.
E. Push the pendulum leveling arm away from the indicator light until the light just reaches minimum brilliance. The leveling arm should be approximately straight down. Repeat steps D and E several times to make sure the indicator light has just reached minimum brilliance.
F. Release the brake pedal. The pendulum is now initially adjusted. A readjustment may be necessary if the loading of either the tow vehicle or trailer causes a considerable change in the tow vehicle front to rear position. Also a further readjustment may be desired during road test and performance adjustments.
On the brake controller, the black wire is the 12 volt power wire and should have 12 volts of power. The white wire is the ground. Take a look at the wiring FAQ article I have linked for you. If your truck and trailer are pinned out differently and do not match, this could be causing some problems as well.
There could also potentially be an issue with the trailer brake magnets. To test the magnets you can follow the FAQ article I have linked.
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09-20-2016, 02:24 PM
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#4
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,828
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The red light could be normal operation according to a few Google results I read.
Get the make & model number & download a installation manual for it. That should help figure out how to disable it if desired or if there's a problem.
I'd leave it in place for resale.
I never thought I'd tow anything & now I sometimes tow a Travel Trailer with the van.
If someone installed a brake controller then it's possible your van came from Chevy with the locking differential, 4:10 rear axle ratio & external transmission cooler. Those are nice options on a heavy B van even if you don't tow.
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09-20-2016, 02:33 PM
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#5
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 8,828
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If you're interested in finding out what the Chevy options are on your van you can enter the door sticker RPO codes into a decoder: http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...oder-1748.html
It would be interesting to know if you have the options mentioned in my previous post and it would be also be interesting to figure out if your van has the full floater rear axle just to add to the info on this forum.
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09-20-2016, 04:13 PM
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#6
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ID AZ
Posts: 867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markopolo
The red light could be normal operation according to a few Google results I read...
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That's what I was thinking. The controller in my PU truck lights up every time the brake pedal is depressed. If it bothered me, I'd put a piece of electrical tape over the light.
Eric
__________________
2006 Dynamax Isata 250 Touring Sedan
"Il Travato Rosso"
2015 Travato 59g
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09-20-2016, 04:56 PM
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#7
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 246
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Yes, it has all of the options you mentioned and has a full floater. The brake control was not connected to the pedal and the lights had not come on until yesterday when I moved it in the garage. First time I saw them.
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09-21-2016, 04:06 AM
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#8
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Platinum Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Manitoba
Posts: 677
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Removing it could be a dis-service to resale rates. As suggested, if nothing is wrong that you can tell, then put some black tape over the light.
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