Towing brake system suggestions

[cdahle]

Hello,
We own 2014 RT 190 Popular with tow pkg and in 2018 had Blue Ox installed with permanently installed D-Celerator Unified Tow Brake in our 2014 Wrangler by our RV service guy. Later found out the D-Celerator system had been out of business since 2009 but "was on the shelf" of our RV service center.

We got a few trips from MD to/from FL w/o problems. Then we blew the left blinker fuse several times until our auto-mechanic put in a bigger fuse. Then blew a few ignition switches determined by our auto mechanic to be related to the brake wiring mechanism and he rewired it - no more blown switches. Now we pull out and know it is functioning until few miles down the road when it will start beeping especially over road bumps (and not functioning).

We are done and looking for a new system. Saw some forum chatter here about the ReadyBrake and the Roadmaster. Then I also saw an ad for RVI Brakes. We like not having to connect/disconnect anything in the Jeep.

Any thoughts?
Cindy and Mike

[mkguitar]

question:

does the brake function work ?

and the issue(s) are only with the lighting ?

* changing to a higher rated fuse is always a bad idea- it can allow damage to occur which a properly sized fuse would avoid.

a "blown" fuse in which the fuseable material has heated, sagged and parted indicates an overloaded circuit. a fuse which shows 'spatter' or traces of soot inside indicates a short circuit- dangerous.


I know nothing about brakes, but I know something about electrics and getting the lighting to work should not be a struggle

[Rockwood27]

I used the Ready Brake system with my 12 190P and liked it. I no longer have the RT, but still use the RB on my current MH.

[Doneworking]

We also have an older small Class C that we use when we are going to stay a week or two in one location. We bought our RT new and simply can't give it up but find it a little small for a two week stay boondocking, thus our small C.

I had a SMI Stay-In-Play supplemental braking installed eight years ago on the C and I pull a 2014 Cherokee flat behind it. It works flawlessly and we simply disengage the drive on the Jeep, turn on the Stay-In-Play and go down the road. It works off the Jeep battery. We start the Jeep about every 300 miles and run it for 15 minutes to recharge the battery. I learned the hard way the first tow that if you go 500 miles without recharging you will have a dead battery and inoperative toad braking system.

[SQUASHMIRE]

you said you were "done" with your current system, but if it were me, I'd not feel comfortable getting a new system until I could understand why the current system is not working. I would track down where the current brake control system gets it's power and where the connections are between the controller and the brakes on the trailer/towed vehicle. Any ground wires for the system need to be working. And if I were to use a mechanic to install the new system, I'd be more confident if he could also get the current one to work. otherwise, you may get a new system, but have the same (or new) problems.

And your mechanic that tried putting in a higher rated fuse when he could not find the problem may not be the best person to install your new system.

[BigHoss]

As a dealership service tech, I agree with all the advice about your mechanic and putting in a larger fuse. If the factory fuse is blowing, it indicates that the system is experiencing a larger load than intended. Putting in a larger fuse is asking for trouble (at the least, melted wiring. Worst, a fire)

Find yourself a good mechanic that can properly diagnose your electrical issues and fix them. The brake system you have, if rated for your setup, should function fine with the factory fuses in place.