Specific winterizing question regarding Roadtrek water heater

[VTPete]

Up here in New England it's going to start getting cold, so it's time I learn to properly winterize my '96 190 Popular.

I found the instructions online and it's basically "drain, then add anti-freeze". Seems simple and reminds me of winterizing my swimming pool.

But, the instructions are misleading with regards to what to do with my propane water heater. I have no instructions available. The water heater looks like it has a drain cap... but can someone offer some simple instructions?

Would anti-freeze in the heater core be a problem? Your help would be appreciated.

-Pete

[BBQ]

Originally Posted by VTPete

Up here in New England it's going to start getting cold, so it's time I learn to properly winterize my '96 190 Popular.

I found the instructions online and it's basically "drain, then add anti-freeze". Seems simple and reminds me of winterizing my swimming pool.

But, the instructions are misleading with regards to what to do with my propane water heater. I have no instructions available. The water heater looks like it has a drain cap... but can someone offer some simple instructions?

Would anti-freeze in the heater core be a problem? Your help would be appreciated.

-Pete

You don't want anti-freeze in your hot water heater.
Just drain it would do.

While you have the tank drained, it is a good time to check your anode.

[avanti]

IMO you don't want antifreeze ANYWHERE in your fresh system. Far better to use compressed air.

But if you insist, it depends on whether your heater has bypass valves. If it does, then, yes, bypass and drain. If it does not, then you have no real choice but to fill it with antifreeze. Just Say No!

[obgraham]

Agree better not to run antifreeze through water heater. A bypass setup avoids the need for that.

What I always did was to start with the HWH, close the bypass, then run the rest of the winterizing, be it air or pinkstuff.

Open the HWH relief valve near the upper section of the device (of course, the water is NOT hot!). Then remove the drain plug to let the water out. Mine were always plastic -- be careful, better to have a correctly fitting socket to remove it. After it drains, there may be more water remaining in the bottom, try to get as much out as you can. I would usually leave the plug out over the winter, in a baggie taped inside the HWH compartment.

That's all there is to it.

[avanti]

Actually, when I used to have a hot water heater (my current setup is tankless on-demand), I used to leave the heater tank in the loop when using compressed air. Since I use a dinky flat-tire style compressor, the tank served as a pressure reservoir, making the blow-out easier.

[jmai]

Nice write-up here. There are 4 sections in the write-up.

Here is the one on the water heater.

Winterizing: Part 2: Water Heater Bypass | Roadtrek Class B RV Blog

[VTPete]

Thanks all, that's what I needed to know. But, I'm a bit confused looking at my propane water heater. Maybe someone knows more than I do?

Inside the cabin, there is one (and only one) valve connected to the base of the water heater. It clearly is a bypass valve directing water up a short tube to the top of the heater where there isn't another valve... just a T joint. I guess I better post photos tomorrow. Anyway, if I flip the valve on the bottom, it just seems like water would be pushed through the top T into the tank (unless there's a check valve somewhere I can't see.)

Also, on the outside of the van, the water heater has a pressure relief valve at the top, and a big honkin' hex head on the bottom that at first I thought was a drain... but maybe it's the sacrificial anode. (It's in much better shape than the surrounding tank; looking all shiny and new. Maybe someone replaced it recently?) EDIT: I just read the Meryl & Me article on hot water heaters and sure enough, that hex plug is both the drain and the anode. Who'd have thunk it?

It was dark tonight, so I couldn't read the labels on the tank. Again it's a '96 190 Popular Dodge. But, tomorrow I should be able to post photos and look up the unit online once I brush the dust off the labels. I hope.

-Pete

[jmai]

If you have only one valve the other hose going into the water tank may have a check valve. May be brass colored with an arrow on it. Check valves are prone to hard water build-up.

The other thing you can do is fill it and as it is filling close the valve and feel the hose. You should be able to notice a change in flow.

Pictures can help.

[VTPete]

Joe,
Yes, it's brass with an arrow. I just drained it to check out the condition of the anode... which was very good. I then flushed the tank (nothing loose came out) and reinstalled the anode. Of course it dripped. So, I took it out again and this time put teflon tape on the threads before installing it. It's good to go, and it's nice to know it's 100% operational and ready for the road.

-Pete

Originally Posted by jmai

If you have only one valve the other hose going into the water tank may have a check valve. May be brass colored with an arrow on it. Check valves are prone to hard water build-up.

The other thing you can do is fill it and as it is filling close the valve and feel the hose. You should be able to notice a change in flow.

Pictures can help.

[jmai]

Good job. You seem to be fixing the problems one by one. Keep up the good work. Its good to see these old rigs brought back to life and keep going for another journey.

[ManWonder]

Originally Posted by avanti

IMO you don't want antifreeze ANYWHERE in your fresh system. Far better to use compressed air.

I'm still kinda new at this but last year I ran antifreeze throughout the system (not water heater). This year, I drained my water heater, switched it to bypass mode, then blew out the lines one by one with compressed air. Then added antifreeze to the drains. And of course my tanks are empty. So, I reckon I'm all set...?

[avanti]

Originally Posted by ManWonder

I'm still kinda new at this but last year I ran antifreeze throughout the system (not water heater). This year, I drained my water heater, switched it to bypass mode, then blew out the lines one by one with compressed air. Then added antifreeze to the drains. And of course my tanks are empty. So, I reckon I'm all set...?

Sounds right.

Three thoughts: (1) if you happen to have a Keurig coffeemaker, be aware that it retains water internally and is not easily drained. Best to take it indoors. (2) Did you remember to blow out any outdoors plumbing you may have (outdoor shower, etc)? (3) If any of your plumbing fixtures are easily removable, it doesn't hurt to take them indoors as well. I do that with our shower wand and the handheld spray head in our sink. They have complex internal mechanisms that are delicate and hard to get completely dry.

[ManWonder]

Originally Posted by avanti

Three thoughts: (1) if you happen to have a Keurig coffeemaker, be aware that it retains water internally and is not easily drained. Best to take it indoors. (2) Did you remember to blow out any outdoors plumbing you may have (outdoor shower, etc)? (3) If any of your plumbing fixtures are easily removable, it doesn't hurt to take them indoors as well. I do that with our shower wand and the handheld spray head in our sink. They have complex internal mechanisms that are delicate and hard to get completely dry.

I did remember to drain the outside plumbing but I like the idea of removing the shower head and hose -- thanks!

[ManWonder]

Originally Posted by ManWonder

I did remember to drain the outside plumbing but I like the idea of removing the shower head and hose -- thanks!

But... you know what I forgot? I didn't push air through the toilet valve - I reckon I'd better get on that soon given there's a frost warning in my neck of the woods!