Source for fresh water fill plug!

[k1hog]

2004 Roadtrek 200P: Source for fresh water fill plug!

https://www.caplugs.com/center-pull-...mNumber=CPT-14

CPT-14

[rvsprinterguy]

Thanks for the tip!

[booster]

Originally Posted by rvsprinterguy

Thanks for the tip!

If I read the site right they have a 300 minimum order for them at $70.


There may be a smaller qty available thought Amazon, though, IIRC.


I think these are the ones that work, also.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...E0EJJUM4&psc=1

[MobileCabin]

Just looked at Mobiliferv and found this:

https://www.mobiliferv.ca/rv-parts/r...ill-plug/6386/

[RT-NY]

I bought one of those from Mobiliferv, and it was a bit too big to fit well in my 1999 Roadtrek 170.

[k1hog]

The reason for the post was because I bought a red plug from ebay that was described to fit the Roadtrek, it was two big. I still have the OEM plug for my 2004 RT 200P, I got the number from it and crossed it to the plug listed above, I received one of the CPT-14 plugs and it was a perfect fit. The plug can be purchased on the interweb.

[mloganusda]

You can always go to a hardware store and purchase a rubber bathtub plug for $.00. That is what I did for my shower drain to keep odors down from gray tank.

[booster]

Originally Posted by mloganusda

You can always go to a hardware store and purchase a rubber bathtub plug for $.00. That is what I did for my shower drain to keep odors down from gray tank.

If you use it for a fresh water plug, you would need to drill a hole though in case the vent isn't working well. Our Roadtrek came with plugs with a hole in them.

[k1hog]

Thanks Booster, my OEM plug has a hole, I didn't know what it's purpose was.

[themexicandoctor]

I agree.

Hardware Store.

Drill a Vent Hole through the middle.

For an even better job, make the hole wide enough that you can buy a suitable steel sleeve with an opening for the hole toensure the Vent.

Or like I have done the last 8 years, don't use a plug at all but that's in a 2005 Roadtrek Versatile 190.

[tomiverson]

How about an absolutely useless post? I asked Roadtrek, about 2 years ago, and they sent me two in the mail for free.

[themexicandoctor]

Tomiverson,

Maybe this was a trial thread for them?

As it is, I called Roadtrek ywice in the past 18 months & they were in Receivership.

I better get the # you use.

[rhythmtone]

I actually bought these, I think the minimum was 20 but whatever, not too expensive.

I foolishly DIDN'T drill a hole and after fixing some leaking plumbing - the pressure was apparently so high that it collapsed in my small interior fresh water tank (we rarely use the external tank but I'm glad I caught this). It sucked in and caused a bulge in the middle so that the wooden door beneath the bed would no longer close, a big hump in the tank and in the bed, all bad, haha.

Since it's relatively pliable plastic I was able to pound it back into a relatively decent shape with a small sledge hammer, but I was really surprised by this failure, and cannot think of what else it could be besides the plugs with no hole. Yes, it's been really hot and really cold in California, but it didn't freeze, only other thing could've been the fresh cold water in the hot plastic tank but you'd think that the vent hole in these plugs (or other venting) would've prevented this, but here I am.

Any advice or feedback would be appreciated,
2006 Roadtrek 210

Thank you!

[booster]

Originally Posted by rhythmtone

I actually bought these, I think the minimum was 20 but whatever, not too expensive.

I foolishly DIDN'T drill a hole and after fixing some leaking plumbing - the pressure was apparently so high that it collapsed in my small interior fresh water tank (we rarely use the external tank but I'm glad I caught this). It sucked in and caused a bulge in the middle so that the wooden door beneath the bed would no longer close, a big hump in the tank and in the bed, all bad, haha.

Since it's relatively pliable plastic I was able to pound it back into a relatively decent shape with a small sledge hammer, but I was really surprised by this failure, and cannot think of what else it could be besides the plugs with no hole. Yes, it's been really hot and really cold in California, but it didn't freeze, only other thing could've been the fresh cold water in the hot plastic tank but you'd think that the vent hole in these plugs (or other venting) would've prevented this, but here I am.

Any advice or feedback would be appreciated,
2006 Roadtrek 210

Thank you!

Theoretically, the whole probably wouldn't even been needed because I am pretty sure there is a vent tube on the top of the tank.

Obviously, Roadtrek decided to put a hole in the plug, most likely because the vent tube is either too small or too prone to getting plugged. I think the vent is probably plugged on yours and the pump has plenty of suction to collapse the tank which is probably what happened to yours as I don't think normal temp swings could do that much volume change.

Many of the vents appear to be plugged based on the number of people we hear about that have problems with slow filling tanks from the door fill point where you use the hose and the plug goes. The only way to get air out as you fill is back up the fill hose if the vent is plugged.

The fresh tank is a lot easier to remove than the black and grey tanks are, and it also is easy to drain and doesn't stink, so if you have the skills, tools, and a way to safely lift the van high enough to get under and also have the tank clear the van bottom to slide it out from under the van. The pump inlet hose/drain fitting screws in, the fill hose is hose clamped on but has silicone sealer on it too so it will stick a bit, disconnect the sensor wires, and then remove the supports and it can be dropped out. I think that would be the only way to get to the vent hose, but it is a real question whether it is worth it because that fill point doesn't burp back and fill as slowly as the rear one as long as the don't push the hose you are filling with too tight to the port so the air can get out.

Generally, the way to re-expand a collapsed tank is to use compressed air to slightly pressurize it . Collapsed fuel tanks were very common in the old days of vehicles because many of them vented through the fuel filler cap, and a lot had a separate vent. People would grab the first fill cap they found, and if they put a non vented cap on a vehicle that needed a vented cap, they got a collapsed tank. Those were sheet metal tanks back then. I dealing with the plastic tank would be similar I think.

You may now have a damaged tank though, depending on how badly it was kinked. The fact that is stayed in place when the vacuum was released is not a great sign. It may crack at the bend points after some number of fill/flex cycles. On the sections you can see, try to look for any place on the bend lines that has changed color to white or a much lighter color of the tank. If there is a narrow line of color change, that would be an indication of damage to the plastic itself and not encouraging. The good would be that filling the tank bends it the opposite direction of the vacuum, so that might help, but still a possibility.

Good luck with it and keep an eye out for leaks. At least they would be clean water so not illegal or a hazard on the ground. If it does crack, a tank fabrication place would be able to plastic weld it. I just had to pull and take in our grey tank because it cracked the spun in threaded bushing at the drain connection, and that is a messy job because you have to also remove the black tank to get it out.

[rhythmtone]

Originally Posted by booster

Theoretically, the whole probably wouldn't even been needed because I am pretty sure there is a vent tube on the top of the tank.

Obviously, Roadtrek decided to put a hole in the plug, most likely because the vent tube is either too small or too prone to getting plugged. I think the vent is probably plugged on yours and the pump has plenty of suction to collapse the tank which is probably what happened to yours as I don't think normal temp swings could do that much volume change.

Many of the vents appear to be plugged based on the number of people we hear about that have problems with slow filling tanks from the door fill point where you use the hose and the plug goes. The only way to get air out as you fill is back up the fill hose if the vent is plugged.

The fresh tank is a lot easier to remove than the black and grey tanks are, and it also is easy to drain and doesn't stink, so if you have the skills, tools, and a way to safely lift the van high enough to get under and also have the tank clear the van bottom to slide it out from under the van. The pump inlet hose/drain fitting screws in, the fill hose is hose clamped on but has silicone sealer on it too so it will stick a bit, disconnect the sensor wires, and then remove the supports and it can be dropped out. I think that would be the only way to get to the vent hose, but it is a real question whether it is worth it because that fill point doesn't burp back and fill as slowly as the rear one as long as the don't push the hose you are filling with too tight to the port so the air can get out.

Generally, the way to re-expand a collapsed tank is to use compressed air to slightly pressurize it . Collapsed fuel tanks were very common in the old days of vehicles because many of them vented through the fuel filler cap, and a lot had a separate vent. People would grab the first fill cap they found, and if they put a non vented cap on a vehicle that needed a vented cap, they got a collapsed tank. Those were sheet metal tanks back then. I dealing with the plastic tank would be similar I think.

You may now have a damaged tank though, depending on how badly it was kinked. The fact that is stayed in place when the vacuum was released is not a great sign. It may crack at the bend points after some number of fill/flex cycles. On the sections you can see, try to look for any place on the bend lines that has changed color to white or a much lighter color of the tank. If there is a narrow line of color change, that would be an indication of damage to the plastic itself and not encouraging. The good would be that filling the tank bends it the opposite direction of the vacuum, so that might help, but still a possibility.

Good luck with it and keep an eye out for leaks. At least they would be clean water so not illegal or a hazard on the ground. If it does crack, a tank fabrication place would be able to plastic weld it. I just had to pull and take in our grey tank because it cracked the spun in threaded bushing at the drain connection, and that is a messy job because you have to also remove the black tank to get it out.

Thanks for the reply and all of the information!

The van was in "winter" mode with the external fresh water tank closed off at the valve, and I only fill from the rear - not sure how this affects venting.

Because of this setup, the collapsed tank in question was the small internal one under the bed - I'm not sure if the external one is damaged, I hope not, but I'll check when it cools off - I'm hoping that it being closed off saved it, but maybe that's also what stopped the venting from the internal tank?

The internal tank doesn't seem really badly damaged, but maybe, I'll try to grab some pictures soon.

Thanks!