Roadtrek window problems

[KurtFranz]

Originally Posted by dnins

I would like to replace my Popular 200 broken rear vent window with sheet acrylic following Jack’s Treks excellent instructions. The missing window is about 33“ x 9“ and curves 3/8 inch from top to bottom. I don’t know how I would avoid having a gap at the bottom after replacing my curved window with flat acrylic plastic. I have read all the posts on this forum and all other Internet posts I have found - none have mentioned a curved window.

I plan to use 3M VHB 111 tape to attach the plastic to the hinge. Jack makes no mention of using a primer here. What has been other readers experience. Prime or not, what primer or cleaner to use?

When you say the glass is curved 3/8 inch from top to bottom, are you saying that if you placed the glass flat on a table there would be a 3/8 inch gap in the middle of both sides of the glass? I do not recall my window glass being curved when I repaired mine, but I did notice that the arm wheels did not rest on the glass simultaneously when I had the window attached to the top hinge and resting on the glass. I carefully bent both arms a bit until both wheels rested on the glass and then attached the brackets to the glass with the VHB tape. This worked perfectly for me on that same 33 inch window. I do not recall any curve in the glass, but I could be mistaken of course.

Also, Is the original glass is gone and you have to use plexiglass. Or do you still have the glass and want to go this route so you can screw the side brackets on instead of taping and or gluing?

[Jfstang]

FWIW, last fall I had an interesting chat with a former worker at the Roadtrek factory back when they were still pumping out 190's and 210's. He's now a local "go-to" guy in Kitchener for Roadtrek questions and parts etc.
So it turns out that units getting their crank-out window assemblies got activator applied to the window assembly, followed by the bonding agent. This is exactly how modern car manufacturers do it on their assembly lines today with fixed glass panels (windshields, back windows, "Shelby" type quarter windows on late model Mustangs, etc.) The activator needed some time to set before the bonding agent was applied, so the activator was applied earlier in the day, often before lunch, and after that the bonding agent was applied. Problem was, after lunch, sometimes the line workers/window installers didn't always remember which vehicles had already got the activator applied and which ones hadn't got the activator yet. In any case, the bonding agent was applied, windows were put on, vehicles were finished and out the door to customer they went. The vehicles with the proper activator/bonding agent never had any issues, just as most cars today don't seem to lose their windshields, fixed side glass, etc. But the Roadtreks which were mistakenly given the bonding agent without the activator, these were the units which tended to lose their side windows years later.
So while that obviously doesn't solve any problems, it was interesting to hear all that from this former Roadtrek factory worker.
Meanwhile, my 05 C190P sleeps quietly in storage til May, as the snow flakes fly around here... sigh.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Jfstang

FWIW, last fall I had an interesting chat with a former worker at the Roadtrek factory back when they were still pumping out 190's and 210's. He's now a local "go-to" guy in Kitchener for Roadtrek questions and parts etc.
So it turns out that units getting their crank-out window assemblies got activator applied to the window assembly, followed by the bonding agent. This is exactly how modern car manufacturers do it on their assembly lines today with fixed glass panels (windshields, back windows, "Shelby" type quarter windows on late model Mustangs, etc.) The activator needed some time to set before the bonding agent was applied, so the activator was applied earlier in the day, often before lunch, and after that the bonding agent was applied. Problem was, after lunch, sometimes the line workers/window installers didn't always remember which vehicles had already got the activator applied and which ones hadn't got the activator yet. In any case, the bonding agent was applied, windows were put on, vehicles were finished and out the door to customer they went. The vehicles with the proper activator/bonding agent never had any issues, just as most cars today don't seem to lose their windshields, fixed side glass, etc. But the Roadtreks which were mistakenly given the bonding agent without the activator, these were the units which tended to lose their side windows years later.
So while that obviously doesn't solve any problems, it was interesting to hear all that from this former Roadtrek factory worker.
Meanwhile, my 05 C190P sleeps quietly in storage til May, as the snow flakes fly around here... sigh.

What window units are you speaking of? On our 07 C190P the side windows are purchased units from CR Laurence and the glued in glass, like the infamous crank out rear side windows that fall out, would have been done at Laurence. The window units use a rubber seal and are clamped onto the body by and inside and outside frame that screw together. I have not heard of any other glass falling out of 190s or 210s except those crank out ones.


I have removed both of our rear side windows and they had no sealer on the rubber seal at all just used the rubber seal and the clamping pressure.


This all said those side windows, especially the driver's side don't fit the contour of the van correctly so are pulled down tight with the clamp screws which bends the frame in making the crank out window not seal well in the rear lower corner. People crank harder to pull to try to pull the window in tight and strip the gear in the actuator and/or twist the glass in it's mount which helps to loosen the adhesive and make the glass fall out.


I have a thread on this forum that shows how I fixed the bad fit problem and now the windows close easily with no heavy cranking and seal very well. When fixed properly, the glass no seats into a small pocket in the rubber seal so the seal helps support the glass, even.


As far as I know, the activator and then semi liquid sealer from a caulking gun is used to attach glass directly to the steel body and possible to a fiberglass body, but not to a rubber seal.

[Jfstang]

Thanks for pointing that out. It appears I misunderstood what the Roadtrek fellow was talking about, or perhaps he did same with me. I was inquiring of him about the windows that fall out, as discussed on this thread, and I just took what he said, but as I'm reviewing it, of course you're right--- that activator/bonding procedure is for windows mounted on metal, not as we have on the rubber track for the crank out windows. Oh well, just trying to help but it appears I have misdirected the conversation a bit. My apologies... won't be the last mistake I make lol.

[Bert M]

Originally Posted by Boyde

Do a facebook search for Jack Wood, he manufactures replacement windows for the CRL windows in Roadtreks. Uses acrylic with metal and glue fasteners. Good reputation.

Contact Jack Wood if you need a replacement window. He custom designed some pre-drilled acrylic that uses two-sided tape and screws. Also, google "Jack Wood Window Replacement" to see a video of how the window is removed and reinstalled. Last I heard the window was $200. You do still have to have the window channels where the roller slides up and down. I did it and it works.