Roadtrek taillight out

[Mean_Jeanne]

Mean_Jeanne
Mean_Jeanne Explorer II

‎Apr-07-2024 01:00 PM

Aloha all:

So our 2007 Roadtrek 170 (MJ &#128578 has a taillight (passenger side) that is out. Immediately thought bulb, so I changed that...still didn't work (later confirmed the original bulb and replacement are good), so I went to the fuse box...fuses are good too, which leads me to believe the problem with the wiring; is that a logical conclusion, or something more obvious I'm missing? I know there are many locations where wiring will have been run/spliced together; does anyone have a suggestion of where I should look specifically to isolate the problem for the passenger side taillight? Mahalo in advance.🤙

Mike

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne

Mean_Jeanne
Mean_Jeanne Explorer II

‎Apr-07-2024 01:00 PM

Aloha all:

So our 2007 Roadtrek 170 (MJ &#128578 has a taillight (passenger side) that is out. Immediately thought bulb, so I changed that...still didn't work (later confirmed the original bulb and replacement are good), so I went to the fuse box...fuses are good too, which leads me to believe the problem with the wiring; is that a logical conclusion, or something more obvious I'm missing? I know there are many locations where wiring will have been run/spliced together; does anyone have a suggestion of where I should look specifically to isolate the problem for the passenger side taillight? Mahalo in advance.🤙

Mike

Roadtrek used pinch on splices on our 07 190P for the trailer hitch wiring which were in the rear pillar on the drivers, side. You might be able to look down from the top with lamp out or up from the bottom to see if they are in there. Those kind of splices fail a lot, one of ours did, so I soldered them all.

[Mean_Jeanne]

That great info/suggestion...thanks Booster. Further to what you said, were you able to actually see the splice that had come apart from either vantage point?

M

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne

That great info/suggestion...thanks Booster. Further to what you said, were you able to actually see the splice that had come apart from either vantage point?

M

I don't recall exactly, but I think so. It was over 10 years ago and I did have the interior panel off back then also.

[Mean_Jeanne]

Copy that, thanks again. I'm away from MJ until next weekend, but I'll update with what I find.

M

[hbn7hj]

The module that converts the Roadtrek wiring to four wire wiring is in the vertical pillar of the drivers side rear door. The passenger tail light wiring crosses over above the door, within the frame, I think, to descend down the driver’s side piller to the module.

In my case the module failed. A new one can be had at any Auto Zone or O’Reilly’s. It is a very difficult job to do. You start by removing the interior upholstery covering the door pillar. It may help to gain access to the wiring across the top of the doors.

Which light is failing. You said tail light. I think that bulb is dual filament and the wiring to each filament has a color common to all wiring systems. I’ll look for the wiring color for the tail light. It will be a tough job and most techs won’t want anything to do with it.

As a start check to see if the trailer light plug has all lights functioning.

Something similar to this is buried in the driver’s side rear door pillar.

https://www.amazon.com/United-Pacifi...828b5be3f7c682

The connections to this module is where the break will probably be found. I’m sure it took Booster some effort to find it as it did me. In my case the trailer light failed which meant the module failed.

Looks like the tail light wire is a brown wire. Follow the brown wire across the doors down to the module. (Just a guess)

[Mean_Jeanne]

Thanks so much for that detailed reply hbn7hj. Whew...sounds daunting, but hey, the light ain't gonna fix itself! lol So I hope you don't mind some follow up questions? When you say "the module failed", you're suggesting that the brown wire INSIDE the module likely broke (cracked...whatever), because since the other lights are still working (or possibly the brown wire is damaged somewhere between module and taillight socket) correct? And if I were to use a test light in the taillight bulb socket, I shouldn't be getting any power there?

Mahalo once again

M

[hbn7hj]

Ask all you want and if you were here I would fix it for you.

I would start by checking the four pin trailer connector. Your failure is not in the module but in the connections around it. Somewhere the brown wire is broken.

You need to check the trailer connector. If it does not work you need to fix it while you are in there. I’ll see if I can find the 4-way trailer connector pinouts. One way to check is to turn the tail lights on and test the voltage between the ground and all other pins. If you get a reading then trailer tail lights work. As you said, it needs to be fixed.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/386655787073

[Mean_Jeanne]

Thanks again for the suggestions...and the offer (drop a line if you're on Maui ). I'll test the trailer connector as well and see what that gives me. I guess where the theory is butting up against the practice, is that the driver side taillight is working, but the passenger side isn't, which, if the module is in line to control (regulate?!) both, then the problem has to be somewhere post-module, and post- junction where the brown splits to power the 2 sides of the taillights...does that make sense?

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne

Thanks again for the suggestions...and the offer (drop a line if you're on Maui ). I'll test the trailer connector as well and see what that gives me. I guess where the theory is butting up against the practice, is that the driver side taillight is working, but the passenger side isn't, which, if the module is in line to control (regulate?!) both, then the problem has to be somewhere post-module, and post- junction where the brown splits to power the 2 sides of the taillights...does that make sense?

I would have to dig out the factory service manual to confirm but many vehicles use the lamps as splice points.


If it is that way, a wire would come from the front of the van for the tailights and go to the driver side lamp. There also would be a wire out of the same connection on the lamp that goes over to the passenger lamp. The failure would likely be in the crossover wire and it could be where the hitch wiring spliced in.

[Mean_Jeanne]

That makes sense. I'll start with the trailer connector and move my way North and East from there. Thanks so much for your input...exactly what these forums are all about.

Mike

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne

That makes sense. I'll start with the trailer connector and move my way North and East from there. Thanks so much for your input...exactly what these forums are all about.

Mike

Cancel that thought. I just thought to check the owners manual for the fuse panel fuse locations and it shows a fuse for each side for the "park lamps). That would mean you would have two wires from the front, with a breakout somewhere in the left pillar area most likely as the brake/turn, reverse, and defogger wires probably go there also. In the same harness.

[hbn7hj]

The module only controls trailer lighting. We only mention it as that is where Roadtrek made it’s connections and is probably where the failure is. No guarantee.

[Mean_Jeanne]

That's a very good point Booster...good catch. I'll look for two wires in the pillar by the module. Thank you both.

M

[phantomjock]

Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne

Mean_Jeanne
Mean_Jeanne Explorer II

‎Apr-07-2024 01:00 PM

Aloha all:

So our 2007 Roadtrek 170 (MJ &#128578 has a taillight (passenger side) that is out. Immediately thought bulb, so I changed that...still didn't work (later confirmed the original bulb and replacement are good), so I went to the fuse box...fuses are good too, which leads me to believe the problem with the wiring; is that a logical conclusion, or something more obvious I'm missing? I know there are many locations where wiring will have been run/spliced together; does anyone have a suggestion of where I should look specifically to isolate the problem for the passenger side taillight? Mahalo in advance.🤙

Mike

Was that the engine bay fuse box or under driver's seat? Or is the 07 Chevy different in that fuse placement?

This from my 2008 Chevy Express pdf manual:


I just got my 08170P out of storage and have a left rear taillamp situation. Been following this thread, but want to know if you found "no joy" with fuses under the seat.

Not a chore I am looking forward to.

Cheers - Jim

[booster]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

Was that the engine bay fuse box or under driver's seat? Or is the 07 Chevy different in that fuse placement?

This from my 2008 Chevy Express pdf manual:


I just got my 08170P out of storage and have a left rear taillamp situation. Been following this thread, but want to know if you found "no joy" with fuses under the seat.

Not a chore I am looking forward to.

Cheers - Jim

That is a good point, people have missed the box under the seat int the past. Our 07 190 has the box under the seat.


Maybe you will get lucky and it will be a fuse. I hope the rodents didn't didn't get to the wiring during storage.

[Mean_Jeanne]

Thanks Booster and Phantom…all good points. I am (was) aware of the floorboard fuse box at the time I noticed the problem. I encountered 2 problems:

1) it was BRUTAL trying to access the fuse box under the seat! In order to really get at it, I may have to take the captain seat off (anyone have thoughts on that?).

2) And this one is due to my ignorance (as are most of my life problems )…the fuse box diagram I was using online was describing the fuses for which I was actually looking as the “Right/Left Rear Park Lamp”…I had not heard them referred to before as such.

All that said, I’m not entirely certain I was checking the correct fuses. As I mentioned, MJ is on Maui, so I’m heading back this weekend and will get into it. Here’s to being lucky.

M

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mean_Jeanne

Thanks Booster and Phantom…all good points. I am (was) aware of the floorboard fuse box at the time I noticed the problem. I encountered 2 problems:

1) it was BRUTAL trying to access the fuse box under the seat! In order to really get at it, I may have to take the captain seat off (anyone have thoughts on that?).

2) And this one is due to my ignorance (as are most of my life problems )…the fuse box diagram I was using online was describing the fuses for which I was actually looking as the “Right/Left Rear Park Lamp”…I had not heard them referred to before as such.

All that said, I’m not entirely certain I was checking the correct fuses. As I mentioned, MJ is on Maui, so I’m heading back this weekend and will get into it. Here’s to being lucky.

M

The seat has to be rotated just right to get the fuse box cover off and it is still not easy to do. I don't recall the exact position but I think it was 90* or more to the inside of the van so the front rear manual adjuster bar is out of the way. I changed our mount to a non rotating and power seat setup so no problem getting it off now.

[phantomjock]

Originally Posted by booster

The seat has to be rotated just right to get the fuse box cover off and it is still not easy to do. I don't recall the exact position but I think it was 90* or more to the inside of the van so the front rear manual adjuster bar is out of the way. I changed our mount to a non rotating and power seat setup so no problem getting it off now.

CLose... I tried that but , it appears rotate to have the seat facing OUT the driver's door. Found a pick here from "Meryl and Me Hit the Road"


But you still only get access to about 70% of the box. You'll need a tool (needle nose pliers) to pull some of those syill under the seat:


I've "ops checked that approach, but have yet to pull some fuses.

As an aside - interesting location for the waste dump (pump) switch. I'd consider that location but add a "Red-Guarded Toggle Switch"

I'd say that qualifies as a While Yer at It!

Best of Luck!

Cheers - Jim

[booster]

Originally Posted by phantomjock

CLose... I tried that but , it appears rotate to have the seat facing OUT the driver's door. Found a pick here from "Meryl and Me Hit the Road"


But you still only get access to about 70% of the box. You'll need a tool (needle nose pliers) to pull some of those syill under the seat:


I've "ops checked that approach, but have yet to pull some fuses.

As an aside - interesting location for the waste dump (pump) switch. I'd consider that location but add a "Red-Guarded Toggle Switch"

I'd say that qualifies as a While Yer at It!

Best of Luck!

Cheers - Jim

Close, but backwards, I have done that often


The fuses can be tough to see and reach, a mirror definitely helps if you can read mirror images.


I replaced our switch with a better pushbutton that I added a small screw that allows me to lock in it on when needed. I didn't want any possibility of it getting bumped on so stayed momentary. You covered switch should take care of that, but make sure the door panel doesn't hit it as I think it might be close.


Another "while you are in there" might be to window the pillar enough to be able to at least see the fuses you are dealing with. I think there is room to do that even with the rotator there. The factory pillar I put in when I put in the power seat track is cutout and it makes it all so much easier.