Roadtrek fridge fuse access

[Ramble]

I have a 1997 Roadtrek 190 Popular and my fridge has stopped working. The automatic igniter it's not making the clicking noise so I'm thinking it's the fuse. I found the fuse panel but I can't get the lid off. I know how but it's too tight in there to get a screwdriver in to unlatch the left side (from my POV). Anybody got a trick/tip? Any help is appreciated.

[mkguitar]

on my Pleasure-Way I found an additional fuse BEHIND the black plastic control panel on the left side which was kind of a surprise
I had to loosen the black panel to run some wiring for added fans and saw the fuse then.


I believe the fuses for the fridge are 3A for control, 5A for AC power and 30A for DC power


the dometic manuals are available online and can help with problems and getting the most out of the fridge


google dometic and the model number


mike

[markopolo]

Post a photo of the panel if you can. I seen push to release and quarter turn latch types. Fridge service manuals are widely available online and can be found by Googling the fridge model number. Some fridges from around the time period of the model year of your coach did not need 12VDC to operate. They just have a piezo type push ignitor.

[Ramble]

Thanks for the replies guys, I have the manual and have figured out how to get the control panel cover off. There's no power to the fridge (panel LEDs, clicking igniter) with both DC and AC setups. Both fuses inside the control panel are good. The manuel says there should also be an inline fuse, but I cannot find that anywhere. Does anyone know where this inline fuse is located on a 1997 Roadtrek 190 popular? I also checked the house fuse for the fridge and it's also good. Again, thanks for any help.

[mkguitar]

sorry I have the pleasure way


I have small black cube circuit breaker for DC power inside the coach, when tripped a little tab comes out which is reset by pushing in-
-of course my manual says red tab- but myself and other owners have reported "black tabs" near invisible requiring hands and knees with flashlight to see the darn things.


when the coach battery gets low and volts drop- amps ( current draw) is higher- this may cause fuses to blow or breakers to pop.
something to remember if your battery goes duff and nothing works after you solve battery problem.


as reported in my first response, I also had a fuse BEHIND the black box.
have a look


mike

[TomF]

Originally Posted by Ramble

Thanks for the replies guys, I have the manual and have figured out how to get the control panel cover off. There's no power to the fridge (panel LEDs, clicking igniter) with both DC and AC setups. Both fuses inside the control panel are good. The manuel says there should also be an inline fuse, but I cannot find that anywhere. Does anyone know where this inline fuse is located on a 1997 Roadtrek 190 popular? I also checked the house fuse for the fridge and it's also good. Again, thanks for any help.

Try removing the outside vented panel behind the fridge (on the side of the van) and follow the wires to the fridge. There should be an inline fuse there.

[Ramble]

Thanks again guys. I followed the wires into the heater/electrical area under the driver's side bench and didn't find any inline fuse. The DC stuff is all working (lights, water pump, etc.) so it seems like the problem is local to the fridge. I'm getting a 5A slow blow fuse for inside the control panel with hope that it is the fuse and I just can't tell that it's blown. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again all.

[Ramble]

BTW Mike I hear you about a fuse behind the panel. I'm gonna use a dentist type mirror to have a look.
Also, fyi, this is a replacement Dometic fridge dated 2009, not the original.

[TomF]

Originally Posted by Ramble

Thanks again guys. I followed the wires into the heater/electrical area under the driver's side bench and didn't find any inline fuse. The DC stuff is all working (lights, water pump, etc.) so it seems like the problem is local to the fridge. I'm getting a 5A slow blow fuse for inside the control panel with hope that it is the fuse and I just can't tell that it's blown. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again all.

Did you check behind the exterior panel for the fridge access? I have the same RT as you, and that is where my inline fuse for the fridge was. Originally it was a 15 amp fuse, but when I upgraded to a new Dometic fridge, it required a 30 amp fuse. I had to run new, heavier gauge wires from the battery to the fridge, and install the new 30 amp inline fuse at the back of the fridge, easily accessed from the exterior panel.

[Ramble]

So I found a useful YouTube video that showed me how to use my multimeter to see where the problem is. Having done that I see that my issue is with the upper control board behind the LED display at the top of the fridge. Now I just need to find where I can get a replacement control board. Anybody know of a good source for Dometic Fridge control boards?

[otr]

On my Roadtrek with a 3 way Dometic fridge, the starter pushbutton just creates a spark when you push the button, no need for 12 or 120v. It is likely not an electrical issue, the "clicker" is likely a piezo electric.

[ChicagoTom]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22362905154...cAAOSw4y1dWvoE

[Ramble]

Thanks again all for trying to help. Seems the older upper control panels are a known issue and so are frequently sought as replacements. I tried Dometic support and was told the part is obsolete and no longer available. I searched all the internet sources (Ebay, rv pary sites, etc.) and nobody has one. Looks like I'm getting a new fridge. Thanks again everyone for trying to help out. Onward through the storm!

[TX-Trek]

May be worth a look? I used one of their boards to fix our suburban furnace.

https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Dom_boards.htm