Roadtrek D190P LP tank

[ChicagoTom]

Originally Posted by Dugefresh

I still haven't removed my tank to try finding the nomenclature(plate) for info. on manufacturer part # so...I contacted RT in Canada with my dilema. After his research(on hold 3 minutes), he advised MANCHESTER HM 384 was my tank ID most likely. Excitedly, I contacted Manchester w/info. for replacement(probable cross referencing new #). Co. rep responded with "Sorry that is definitely NOT a Manchester part #. So, my saga continues...any advice besides renting a lift/removing skid plate/accessing the "hidden" manufacturer's plate info.??

Did you not read my reply? Who is telling you that you need a new tank? You were also asked what's wrong with it, since they do NOT go bad. Anything connected to it can go bad, shutoff valve, fill, etc., but these ASME horizontal tanks do NOT go bad.

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by Dugefresh

I still haven't removed my tank to try finding the nomenclature(plate) for info. on manufacturer part # so...I contacted RT in Canada with my dilema. After his research(on hold 3 minutes), he advised MANCHESTER HM 384 was my tank ID most likely. Excitedly, I contacted Manchester w/info. for replacement(probable cross referencing new #). Co. rep responded with "Sorry that is definitely NOT a Manchester part #. So, my saga continues...any advice besides renting a lift/removing skid plate/accessing the "hidden" manufacturer's plate info.??

On my 1999 Roadtrek 170, the information plate on the propane tank has "CAT#: 6877", which I guess is the Manchester part number. But I think your model year is slightly different. I believe that one of the following links, probably the first one, is the tank for your RT (the second is the tank for my model year). But these are very expensive and need to be shipped from Canada so there is extra cost and customs paperwork involved. Manchester no longer makes these tanks specifically but they do make similarly sized tanks so it would be probably be cheaper to get one of those, but you would have to weld new mounting hardware to your van. Either way is a lot of cost and effort, so I will repeat what others have already said: are you sure you need a new tank? What, specifically, is wrong with the tank you have? It might just be a matter of cleaning up your current tank and replacing a fitting.

https://www.mobiliferv.ca/rv-parts/r...k-hm-384/6338/

https://www.mobiliferv.ca/rv-parts/r...k-hm-414/6288/

[Dugefresh]

Sorry Tom, had ZERO intent on blowing up your skirt(lol). I thought I had put up a follow-up response =Sorry, my friend. My fuel pump(inside tank) was removed by a non-RV shop, as well as other items that he achieved(re- Brakes/resurface rotors, hoses etc. to make this road-ready for sale. Final item was for him to check(while I was there) was to add propane(2#) to do a fitting soapy-water spray check. As he was adding the propane, we both heard a hissing. He stopped the fill and placed his hand to the front of the partially hidden tank...almost burnt himself, and announced tank apparently has rusted through in the front. Wouldn't allow me to start my vehicle until ALL propane was vent-released(20 mins.). NO valve leakage was seen by either of us(after being soap-sprayeded) at all. Now my objective is to replace the rusted 27 year old(1996) original tank. Thanks again for BOTH of your replies, take care...Peace.

[ChicagoTom]

Again, It's not the tank. Bring it in to AmeriGas or some other place. They do NOT rust through. I went through this with another person on the FB Group and after a month of back and forth, he finally announced that he had to eat crow. It was not the tank leaking.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by Dugefresh

Sorry Tom, had ZERO intent on blowing up your skirt(lol). I thought I had put up a follow-up response =Sorry, my friend. My fuel pump(inside tank) was removed by a non-RV shop, as well as other items that he achieved(re- Brakes/resurface rotors, hoses etc. to make this road-ready for sale. Final item was for him to check(while I was there) was to add propane(2#) to do a fitting soapy-water spray check. As he was adding the propane, we both heard a hissing. He stopped the fill and placed his hand to the front of the partially hidden tank...almost burnt himself, and announced tank apparently has rusted through in the front. Wouldn't allow me to start my vehicle until ALL propane was vent-released(20 mins.). NO valve leakage was seen by either of us(after being soap-sprayeded) at all. Now my objective is to replace the rusted 27 year old(1996) original tank. Thanks again for BOTH of your replies, take care...Peace.

Finding a new tank is unlikely. Might want to pull the tank and verify it is rusted through.

[mloganusda]

The hissing could have been a bad rubber hose, bad regulator, or the tank vent relief valve. The vent relief valve is to let air escape while filling the tank to 2/3 full. Did you smell propane during the emptying procedure? Once venting a 1986 LeSharo propane tank, I used the furnace to burn off the gas. The propane company then replaced the main valve that was bad (leaked when opening and closing).

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by Dugefresh

As he was adding the propane, we both heard a hissing. He stopped the fill and placed his hand to the front of the partially hidden tank...almost burnt himself, and announced tank apparently has rusted through in the front. Wouldn't allow me to start my vehicle until ALL propane was vent-released(20 mins.). NO valve leakage was seen by either of us(after being soap-sprayeded) at all. Now my objective is to replace the rusted 27 year old(1996) original tank.

Not to beat a dead horse, and I think that you can replace the tank if you want using the links above, but I don't understand your story: I have to presume you started with an empty tank because there is a leak. So if you started filling an empty thank then heard a hissing and stopped filling, then when did you check the fittings with soapy water? While it was hissing and propane was spouting out (apparently quite a lot -- 20 minutes is not a long time to vent any quantity of propane)? And which fittings did you check? There are several places right near the front of the tank to check: the fill valve, relief valve, spit valve, vapor valve, and vapor valve hose fitting (also if you have a remote fill like I do, the spit valve hose fitting and fill valve hose fitting on both ends). Also, not too far away is the other end of the vapor valve hose fitting and the connections on both sides of the regulator (plus the solenoid shut off valve if you have one). And if there was enough propane coming out of the tank itself that it could be felt with an outstretched hand, then I would think that the source of the leak would be easily identified visually.

[Dugefresh]

Using repair dealer's lift today(no charge) for visible inspection, will update...tx for responses fellas.

[Dugefresh]

Update(on lift) revealed the Manchester TANK ID(located under/inner side of tank) was easily viewed and photod. Members needing this info is Manchester(catalog #675374 mnfd.1995)> Still in production 1-1.5 month "lead time". Only available/ordered through their National distributors. My own research revealed about an $1800 (+-) value. I also researched similar size(dimensional 10 x 23" 6.8 gallon) Manchester tanks and found Manchester #6813 to match( $627 free delivery Amazon). Caveat being that the mounting brackets may differ but for 67% cheaper...creative configuration should easily be achieved! Couldn't see any rusty deterioration w/o actually removing skid-plate and even removing tank for more thorough inspection(will probably do). Hope this helps any inquiring/needing members = take care folks!

[RT-NY]

Originally Posted by Dugefresh

Manchester(catalog #675374 mnfd.1995)> Still in production 1-1.5 month "lead time". Only available/ordered through their National distributors. My own research revealed about an $1800 (+-) value.

Thanks for that information. It is interesting that they can still manufacture a tank originally produced in 1995! Do they make an exact drop-in replacement with all the mounting hardware and fittings in place? Although these tanks, if taken care of, should easily last the life of the RV, and the replacement is very expensive, I hear that some propane retailers refuse to fill older tanks so that might be a reason to have a newly manufactured tank in any case.

[booster]

I don't think I would order a new tank until the old one was out and you can see where it was leaking from. If the tank looks very, very rusty where you can see it, it might have a rust leak, but it just doesn't happen very often on the mounted tanks. If they do rust through a leak it is most commonly seen at the bung welding or the brackets to take welds.

[Dugefresh]

Originally Posted by RT-NY

Thanks for that information. It is interesting that they can still manufacture a tank originally produced in 1995! Do they make an exact drop-in replacement with all the mounting hardware and fittings in place? Although these tanks, if taken care of, should easily last the life of the RV, and the replacement is very expensive, I hear that some propane retailers refuse to fill older tanks so that might be a reason to have a newly manufactured tank in any case.

RT-NY Yes they do make exact tank still, amazingly, BUT with that AMAZING $1800 price tag!