Roadtrek 210P AC Changeout

[Bangorbob]

Thank you very much for the quick response. Another question: Does the cool cat just slide out of it's spot? Also, how did you get it off the roof?
Thanks, Bob

[tlillard23]

@TxTrek - - Been thinking of doing this for some time, the heatpump is a very good noise maker, and that's about it. did you consider some of the lower wattage mini split type airconditioners on the market now? I see some units are in the 5-600 watt range, that is low enough that our solar could run the unit for a few hours during the heat of the day.
The mini-split, or "U" shaped AC's would also allow a better seal to the elements/rain.
Anyone have any experience with the newer lower wattage units?

[TX-Trek]

I think the thread describes the original unit setup, but to clarify, the unit was primarily held in place with 2 rear brackets, and to some extent by the plastic sleeve and side ductwork if I remember right. After removal of that stuff the unit was pulled back and out. The plastic sleeve was trimmed back as shown. The Dometic was pretty heavy, it had to be horsed down a step ladder with some help. The new unit was lighter, still bulky though. The combination of the adhesive roofing material (QuikRoof) and using the rear brackets holds it very securely in place.

I didn't look into any sort of inverter or split system AC - nothing wrong at all about them, just my preference to use a standard unit as replacement. We don't boondock, we have used the genset to run the unit in parking lots if its hot and we go in to a store or restaurant, but that's the extent of our boondocking. I think that another member here is installing an inverter type unit, looking forward to his description.

One of my criteria is on the road fix or replacement if needed. If we're a few thousand miles from home and the ac fails, besides staying at a motel - sort of counterproductive to having an RV - we can buy another new unit at wallymart or box store and replace the failed unit in an afternoon. Won't be fun but better than having to head back or use motels. We're older, don't mind sweating outside or hiking, but not having AC in the van isn't an option.

I think regardless of what you use, pay close attention to airflow. Air going to the unit must be segregated as much as possible from exhaust air coming out. In my case I re-did the rear air "separator" to try to ensure hot exhaust wasn't short-cycling into the side air intakes. I also added 3 round inlet vents at the top. In our case the new (well its about 3 years old now) unit has performed very well.

[Bangorbob]

Tx-Trek, Again thanks. I guess I have a little more work to do. I really enjoy doing a lot of the work myself and when on the road I think it's so hard to find good RV repair guys.

[TX-Trek]

Yes, sometimes things happen on the road and it can be rough to get repairs. All I try to do is preventive maintenance and carry tools/spares on some parts, electrical, etc. Next on the list is macerator manual dump setup as Booster has outlined so well. Failed macerator can be a show-stopper.

[ph007]

How is the roof cover sealed to keep water out?

[Bangorbob]

1st, where is Michigan? I grew up in Bangor. Anyway, the way I understand it is the well nuts seal themselves when you turn the screws. I just finished putting my cover back on yesterday and we had heavy rain last night. I will see today IF the well nuts did there job.

[ph007]

On our new to us 2006 RT210P the AC roof cover seam has What I believe is self leveling calk poured over it to seal it. Next winter I am going to have it painted and will need to remove the calk. Hope it comes off fairly easy. Is this seam usually calked? Doesn't look like yours is.

[peteco]

Originally Posted by ph007

On our new to us 2006 RT210P the AC foof cover seam has What I believe is self leveling calk poured over it to seal it. Next winter I am going to have it painted and will need to remove the calk. Hope it comes off fairly easy. Is this seam usually calked? Doesn't look like yours is.

It is not caulked at the factory. Someone caulked it later.

[Bangorbob]

I also use Roadtrek Chevy Owners on Facebook. Lots of info/opinions on both here and there. The cover has a gasket attached underneath. The well nuts are what seals the cover from water getting into the vehicle area. Some have caulked the seam, some have taped the seam. I personally may throw some weather proof tape on the seam on top just because I can.
BTW, I refrained from joining facebook, but sometimes that is the only other source to get info.

[ph007]

How is it sealed, or doesn't it need to be?

[Bangorbob]

Please read post #27.

[ph007]

Well, how did it go after the heavy rain?

[Bangorbob]

Haven't looked yet. Only 9 am out here on the left coast. Where in Michigan?

[ph007]

About 30 miles north of Grand Rapids

[Bangorbob]

Great. It appears that I have NO leaks. I lived in Wyoming around 36th & Byron center.

[TX-Trek]

I never used a gasket or caulking at the top cover, no issues with water getting inside the van. On our van, the lower fiberglass pan is slightly raised below the ac unit area and slightly sloped to the rear. There are also a couple of formed channels in the fiberglass pan at the left and right sides. Any water seeping at the top cover lip, condensate, etc drains to the rear, either thru the ac or in the channels. If I remember right, I drilled a couple holes in the bottom of the AC unit right above the two channels in that raised area. Condensate/rain drips end up going thru the unit and either draining as they would in regular window mounting or thru the extra holes into the channels.


I even added some extra air inlets at the top cover right above the grill inlet on the AC unit. Any rainwater drips into the ac unit as it would if it was mounted in a window, then drains out the back.


I guess the best way I can put it is that we've sort of "forgotten" about AC unit as its worked great and hasn't had any leaks.

[ph007]

are the top and back covers one piece or two?

[TX-Trek]

One piece molded fiberglass.