rear air conditioner

sailertim · 01-28-2021, 03:29 AM

Hi Y'all
does anyone know if the rear A/C can be charged, I have looked in the book but it does not mention anything. Before I take it to a shop for repair I'd like to know about it. The unit is in a 2002 Dodge Roadtrek 190 Versitile.
any help would be great, Thanks

Roadtrek Rich · 01-28-2021, 07:47 PM

Anything is possible but it would probably be more cost effective to remove the old one and install a new one.
It was very thoughtful of Roadtrek to use a widely available, low cost household window air conditioner in these models.
I removed my "still working" 25 year Fedders unit in favor of a Frigidaire unit with the ability to draw much lower amperage at startup and thus use a small 1000 watt portable generator to operate it.
If you are going to a shop to have work performed, they would probably need to remove the ac unit to recharge it anyway. If that is even possible.
The frigidaire unit I got fits the space but requires a little rework to the baffle system controlling the incoming/outgoing airflow. Very easy to do.

The model number is FFRA051WAE

It's currently $184.00 on amazon.

rekkerT · 01-29-2021, 12:38 AM

As Rich says, an almost-20-year-old window AC unit could probably be repaired, but is it worth it? Replacements are more efficient and hopefully will last a long time. B.T.W. I've seen many posting of RVs for sale with non-working A/C. "It just needs a re-charge" !!

sailertim · 01-29-2021, 01:40 AM

thanks guys for your input, I had'ent realized that it was a everyday normal window air conditioner. I. will take your advice and change it out .

wny-pat · 01-29-2021, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailertim

thanks guys for your input, I had'ent realized that it was a everyday normal window air conditioner. I. will take your advice and change it out .

I don't believe it is a "normal window air conditioner"! It is a extremely loud "Dometic Cool Cat" under the cabinet RV air conditioner. It is replaceable by several quieter window air conditioners. Some small window air conditioners do have heat pumps, but they tend to be pricey, and I don't remember anyone replacing theirs with one!

booster · 01-29-2021, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wny-pat

I don't believe it is a "normal window air conditioner"! It is a extremely loud "Dometic Cool Cat" under the cabinet RV air conditioner. It is replaceable by several quieter window air conditioners. Some small window air conditioners do have heat pumps, but they tend to be pricey, and I don't remember anyone replacing theirs with one!

It is likely a Fedders window air conditioner in a 2007 Dodge 190. Depending on who you believe, it may have had some vibration proofing on it.

Peder_y2k · 02-04-2021, 05:08 PM

Vibration proof is VERY IMPORTANT. House window air conditioners are designed to be stationary, and not bounce around. Internal compnants such as copper tubing can vibrate causing fatigue cracks that leak refrigerant. One would need to open the box to check for vulnerable tubing runs, then secure them before closing up. There won't be any information available describing how durable a particular window a/c is in a mobile installation. You pay your money and take your chances.

nicaland · 02-04-2021, 06:37 PM

Another window unit that may fit your RV is the LG FFRA051WAE. Not only cheaper than the Frigidaire option (currently $349 on Amazon), but it has a remote control as well. It is also a 8000 BTU unit. I installed one in my Xplorer 230XLW and absolutely love it. My 2.8 KW Onan doesn't even burp on compressor start-up, it only pulls 6.2 amps after compressor start, and has a very high flow max fan speed. I'm pretty sure that quite a few Roadtrek owners have used them, but what you need to do is find the exact model of your existing A/C (Probably a Fedders 5000 BTU unit) and find out what the exterior dimensions of it are, and compare them to whichever unit you think will fit. You probably will have the ability to enlarge or shrink your existing hole a bit, but the closer it is to your old one the better. Modifying and replacing the baffling must be done, and be sure to carefully waterproof the opening that the new A/C fits in. My old Fedders was an A6X05F2G-A, and all of the dimensions of the LG were very close with the exception of it's depth, and it was quite a bit longer, but that wasn't an issue for me.

wny-pat · 02-04-2021, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by booster

It is likely a Fedders window air conditioner in a 2007 Dodge 190. Depending on who you believe, it may have had some vibration proofing on it.

The OP's Dodge Roadtrek 190 is a 2002. According to the manual for that particular model on the Roadtrek website, the Air Conditioner is a Dometic model #41001.61. Dometic does not list a manual for that particular model.

ChicagoTom · 02-04-2021, 08:04 PM

It's NOT a window AC, but it is similar in that there are no charging ports. If it's low on Freon, then there is a leak. These are hermetically sealed units, line a window unit. Replace it if it's 20 years old.

booster · 02-04-2021, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wny-pat

The OP's Dodge Roadtrek 190 is a 2002. According to the manual for that particular model on the Roadtrek website, the Air Conditioner is a Dometic model #41001.61. Dometic does not list a manual for that particular model.

When you click on the 2002 "all Dodge models" manual, it appears to bring up a Chevy manual.

Thevon · 02-04-2021, 08:34 PM

Does anyone know of a thread that shows the baffle exhaust modifications?

Roadie · 02-04-2021, 09:10 PM

I have replaced mine in my 02C200P three years ago with a !0K btu LG unit I bought a HD for less than $150. It was not simple, but not technical. It is working great. The most limiting thing is the specific size of your opening. I highly recommend that you look into the Vintage Roadtrek group on fb. (It is the only thing I use fb for.) Also look at: redroverroadtrek.com.

sailertim · 02-06-2021, 02:18 AM

Thank you everyone for your input, a lot to digest and some really good points. It is a Fedders and I will start by removing it and sizing up a new unit utilizing a dampening system to prevent vibration.

mangomike · 02-06-2021, 02:57 AM

I'm curioue as to how people are "dampening system to prevent vibratio" what and how they would do that?
thanks
Michael

hbn7hj · 02-06-2021, 04:28 AM

Need to point out it is not a window air conditioner, which have hot air exhaust vents on the sides, but it is a wall air conditioner which have hot air exhaust vents aimed aft and need to have air separators to keep from mixing with the cool intake air.

Wall air conditioners are not as common as window air conditioners. A window air conditioner will not work. I had to have this pointed out to me.

Doneworking · 02-06-2021, 03:26 PM

I wonder how many of us use the heat pump feature in our Roadtreks? We use ours a lot to take the chill off if it is around 40F or warmer. Used it yesterday as a matter of fact.

This time of year, I fire up the Onan 2800, set the thermostat at 80, open the windows so it runs continuously and exercise the generator for an hour or more.

We also find it easier to sleep with the heat pump as opposed to the lpg furnace kicking on and off at night, but our little 400 watt fan driven ceramic heater does a great job of keeping the RT warm all night long.

I would hate to give up the heat pump when it is time to replace the Kool Kat which still works perfectly after fifteen years.

Jon in AZ · 02-06-2021, 03:47 PM

Guess I’m the opposite. The noise and vibration of the heat pump is right over the bed. The furnace is way up front and less intrusive. If I have shore power, I’ll use a small ceramic heater. If I don’t, the furnace is the only option anyway. The heat pump is totally useless to me.

Bud · 02-06-2021, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doneworking

I wonder how many of us use the heat pump feature in our Roadtreks? We use ours a lot to take the chill off if it is around 40F or warmer. Used it yesterday as a matter of fact.

This time of year, I fire up the Onan 2800, set the thermostat at 80, open the windows so it runs continuously and exercise the generator for an hour or more.

We also find it easier to sleep with the heat pump as opposed to the lpg furnace kicking on and off at night, but our little 400 watt fan driven ceramic heater does a great job of keeping the RT warm all night long.

I would hate to give up the heat pump when it is time to replace the Kool Kat which still works perfectly after fifteen years.

Hi Doneworking,

If using shore power do you use the heat pump?

If boondocking, do you run the heat pump, generator?

Bud

wny-pat · 02-06-2021, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doneworking

I wonder how many of us use the heat pump feature in our Roadtreks? We use ours a lot to take the chill off if it is around 40F or warmer. Used it yesterday as a matter of fact.

This time of year, I fire up the Onan 2800, set the thermostat at 80, open the windows so it runs continuously and exercise the generator for an hour or more.

We also find it easier to sleep with the heat pump as opposed to the lpg furnace kicking on and off at night, but our little 400 watt fan driven ceramic heater does a great job of keeping the RT warm all night long.

I would hate to give up the heat pump when it is time to replace the Kool Kat which still works perfectly after fifteen years.

I've used it, but it is so loud that I hate to use it. Much prefer to use a ceramic heater which works just as well and is no where near as noisy. I'll gladly give up the Dometic Cool Cat for a much quieter residential window or wall air conditioner!!! There are several who have swapped out their Cool Cats for after market air conditoners if you search here or over at Facebook's Roadtrek Chevy Owners. And some of those after market units come with heat pumps for about $100 more.

But if I were to fire it up and set the thermostat at 80, I doubt it would do any good as we have a 21F degree heat wave right now!

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