Ramps or Lifts for access under RV?

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by booster

A 10K+ lb four post for $1K?

Nope, but there are lighter duty 4 post ramps in the $1-4K range, & it was expressed as a range with a plus after it - so don't be silly.

If you must, just say that a 10K lbs 4 post will be in the $4000+ range to clarify - rather confuse the topic!


BTW - A couple of years ago I'd priced a few custom 4 post lifts in the 10-12,000 lbs range (all of my vehicles are in the 2270 - 5200 lbs range & 1000-3500 for the trailers, for the lift 1 or 2 at a time), & for the custom footprint that we'd need in our 17'-6" x 18' garage, & they came in at $5-8K - which would be plus the cost to raise the roof & walls height in our garage (roof needs rebuilding anyway) as part of our current historic home etc. resto/renovation - so the jury is still out on that option for us.

Tom
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[Canscot]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

Nope, but there are lighter duty 4 post ramps in the $1-4K range, & it was expressed as a range with a plus after it - so don't be silly.

If you must, just say that a 10K lbs 4 post will be in the $4000+ range to clarify - rather confuse the topic!


Tom
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I am not talking about a four post ramp ,I am talking about drive up ramps for each wheel they lift the vehicle about 8 inches

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by Canscot

I bought heavy duty ramps to lift my 94C210P They are Rhino Ramps Max rated at 16000 lbs gross vehicle weight they worked good for me

I was wondering if you had "heavenly aid" on your Rhino Ramps, before you fixed the phone/computer spell checker!

Why do they call it spell checker, when more often than not it gives the wrong words & corrections!?

BTW for "Clark" & others - I have those ramps too, & a 2.5 ton aluminum/steel floor jack, & 4x 3 ton jack stands with safety pins (not ratchets) - but all of my vehicles are 6000 lbs or less - cars & trailers included.

They all work well for the maintenance purpose - aside from the longer term desire to get more covered &/or indoor parking for our cars & trailers, which is still undecided, as noted above.

Cheers!
Tom
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[booster]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

Nope, but there are lighter duty 4 post ramps in the $1-4K range, & it was expressed as a range with a plus after it - so don't be silly.

If you must, just say that a 10K lbs 4 post will be in the $4000+ range to clarify - rather confuse the topic!


BTW - A couple of years ago I'd priced a few custom 4 post lifts in the 10-12,000 lbs range (all of my vehicles are in the 2270 - 5200 lbs range & 1000-3500 for the trailers, for the lift 1 or 2 at a time), & for the custom footprint that we'd need in our 17'-6" x 18' garage, & they came in at $5-8K - which would be plus the cost to raise the roof & walls height in our garage (roof needs rebuilding anyway) as part of our current historic home etc. resto/renovation - so the jury is still out on that option for us.

Tom
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Honestly, there is nothing wrong with asking for a clarification if you can't determine what is posted, IMO, and it not silly for anyone to ask. In my world 1-4K+ means low end 1K to something above 4K. If it is really 1K plus you don't even need the 4K part at all.

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by Canscot

I am not talking about a four post ramp ,I am talking about drive up ramps for each wheel they lift the vehicle about 8 inches

Yes Canscot - I know that you were talking about Ramps, as per my reply to you about having the same ramps.

I was replying to Booster, who was erroneously talking about 10,000 lb 4 post lifts for only $1000.

And the OP had also asked about lifts - in addition to ramps, jacks & jack stands.

So I didn't want any confusion that a heavy duty high weight capacity 4 post lift could be had for just $1000 - but listed the range of costs + for the differing weight capacities that other folks reading on here may have for their vehicles.

For example - I certainly don't need a 10,000 lb lift nor jack/jack stands/ramps at that heavy duty 10K lbs rated for my little 2270 lb `73 Porsche 914 resto project, nor for my 2780 lb `85 BMW 325e servicing- nor for both of them on a double car 4 post lift in my garage - nor even for our heavier 4800 lb `88 VW Westfalia Class B.

But I was planning ahead for our planned future vehicle(s) & probably heavier future EVs (due to battery packs), & for our son's current heavier Tesla S at 5000+/- lbs - so I got heavier duty jack, jack stands & ramps (& possible future lift) in order to handle our coming future 5200-6700 lb Cayenne to tow our bigger Avion T20 trailer, &/or any other heavy-ish future owned vehicles, &/or for neighbors' & friends' vehicles if they need to do some work on theirs.

So upsizing for additional uses & future-proofing is another consideration for those considering the greater expense of putting in a 2 or 4 post Lift(s).

Cheers!
Tom
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[booster]

Erroneous is in the eye of the beholder, IMO, as none of us get to determine if someone else didn't see it as it was meant.



Again my opinion is still that everyone should ask if they are puzzled by any information as that is what this forum is about. It isn't a personal insult at all to ask for clarification, so no snark needed about it.


The original post of this thread was asking about getting under a 9600# gross weight Roadtrek 210 safely.

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by booster

Honestly, there is nothing wrong with asking for a clarification if you can't determine what is posted, IMO, and it not silly for anyone to ask. In my world 1-4K+ means low end 1K to something above 4K. If it is really 1K plus you don't even need the 4K part at all.

No Booster - nothing wrong with asking for clarification, but your post was worded as if 10K lbs was the only lift size/rating/type that I discussed - so I did clarify for you.

Again - in my post I said that the Lifts discussion was for a range of lift sizes, ratings & types: "You don't say whether you also have a garage parking need as well, & since others reading here may need more garage parking - I've also covered lifts below. ... They range [from] several $100+ for portable & fixed scissors lifts - to $1-4000+ for built-in 2 or 4 post lifts. ... 4 Post lifts come in singe or double wide flavors depending on your needs & garage layout, in order to double your parking capacity in one or both garage bays. ... As above for jacks/stands/ramps - the lift should be rated for the combined weight(s) of all vehicles which would be using them."

As I said in my clarification reply to you, and in my excerpts from my original post above - the $1-4K+ range was given to cover ALL sizes, types & ratings of lifts - not just one for the OP's question - but for ALL who are reading here.

However, it is silly to expect to get a supposedly high end heavy duty 4 post lift for a bargain basement price, because that falls under the "if it's too good to be true, then it's probably not true" category. If someone claims it's a 10K lbs 4 post lift for just $1K - then it's probably not, or else its an older used one which may have other mechanical &/or part(s) problems which will require more money to fix it.

In this case - given that I was talking about a range of peoples' needs for 2 & 4 post lifts - "silly" referred to using common sense to expect that I meant starting at the upper end of the range $4K+ for the higher end heavy duty lifts - & not to be derogatory.

Cheers!
Tom
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[booster]

Just reread my last post as it all still applies and has just been reinforced.


Hopefully, a moderator will just dump all of this garbage that has nothing to do with the OP's original questions and multitude of good replies to that question.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

But as others have said you need to have the top steps long enough to place wheel chocks front & rear - whether using one end or all 4 wheels up.

Although I would never, ever try to talk somebody out any safety measure they feel is prudent, I personally see no need for chocks if the van is sitting level on a sufficiently long ramp. As I said, the dynamics of this situation are exactly the same as the van sitting on the ground. The reason chalks are generally necessary is because (a) jacks and stands are inherently unstable due to their height-to-base ratio; and (b) when used on only two wheels the system is out of balance. Neither of these apply when using large wooden ramps on all four wheels on a level driveway. The transmission in "Park" and the parking brake set are already belt and suspenders on top of an inherently stable configuration. I feel no need for chocks.

As I say, though, everyone should do as they think best.

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by avanti

Although I would never, ever try to talk somebody out any safety measure they feel is prudent, I personally see no need for chocks if the van is sitting level on a sufficiently long ramp. As I said, the dynamics of this situation are exactly the same as the van sitting on the ground. The reason chalks are generally necessary is because (a) jacks and stands are inherently unstable due to their height-to-base ratio; and (b) when used on only two wheels the system is out of balance. Neither of these apply when using large wooden ramps on all four wheels on a level driveway. The transmission in "Park" and the parking brake set are already belt and suspenders on top of an inherently stable configuration. I feel no need for chocks.

As I say, though, everyone should do as they think best.

The difference is that a person is under the vehicle & exposed if anything fails or goes wrong.

Also when you're working on the vehicle of any type, you'll probably be pushing, pulling etc. on the parts that you're working on, & then inducing forces on thee vehicle that it won't experience when just parked.

Also, "Park" on auto transmissions, parking brakes, etc. can & do fail; plus they may or may not be adequate to withstand that added force of the persuader bar you use to loosen that stubborn frozen nut/bolt; and there are cases where there have been unknown defects in those "parking systems".

That's why the manufacturers all put the cautions to always chock your wheels when working on the vehicle in any mode - on ground, on a jack, jack stands, ramps, lifts, etc. - so that they have no legal liability if & when something goes wrong.

And who hasn't forgotten at least once to not set the parking brake &/or trans to park!? I know that I have!

Also - not all cars are auto & so do not have "park" with manual trans cars - plus the park mode & parking brake aren't really considered "belt & suspenders" by most auto makers & shops.

For me - since I have some friends who were injured when their vehicle rolled in park/parking brake on while on 4 ramps - I vote for safety first.

So I still say to chock on your 4 ramps.

Be Extra Safe!
Tom
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[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by booster

Just reread my last post as it all still applies and has just been reinforced.


Hopefully, a moderator will just dump all of this garbage that has nothing to do with the OP's original questions and multitude of good replies to that question.

I think that I've more than clarified & answered your question for you, the OP & everyone else.

Now you're just being mean trying to get my very valid posts dumped when the OP in fact did ask about lifts:

"Hey folks:
I have a 2008 Roadtrek Versatile 210 and even after having the chassis lifted about 3" last off-season, there is not enough room to get underneath and replace a macerator discharge hose. Does anyone have a recommendation for a set of ramps/jacks/lifts that ae relatively inexpensive, yet safe and effective to gain access for simple DIY repairs and maintenance?

Thanks in advance,

Grizwald "

So just drop it now.

[booster]

I was talking about the garbage insult and distraction posts. You probably should have asked for a clarification!

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Tom_T

For me - since I have some friends who were injured when their vehicle rolled in park/parking brake on while on 4 ramps - I vote for safety first.

So, you are claiming that you personally know of multiple instances of actual injuries resulting from vehicles rolling off of four properly-sized wooden ramps in the presence of transmissions in "Park" and properly-set parking brakes.

Do tell...

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by avanti

So, you are claiming that you personally know of multiple instances of actual injuries resulting from vehicles rolling off of four properly-sized wooden ramps in the presence of transmissions in "Park" and properly-set parking brakes.

Do tell...

Yes I know of at least 3-4 first hand, and several 2nd hand - including a neighbor with a 2007-08 Roadtrek (about the same vintage as the OP's 2008 RT) who broke his forearm when his rolled unchocked on ramps while trying to fix the grey/black valve a couple of years back - & another one hurt was in 1969 when one of my uncles hurt while working under his ex-Navy Surplus 1960 Dodge Powerwagon, who said never again without all 4 wheels chocked on his homemade 2x10 ramps.

PS - I also got grounded & lost use of the car in 1969 after my uncle's accident noted above (my Dad's brother), for not chocking the wheels of Dad's 1967 C20 with slide-in camper when changing the oil & filter, as a condition of using the other family car for a date that weekend. It became a rule of the family after my uncle's accident, & he'd been working on his cars since high school in 1948, & he said that he knew better, & just got lazy.

Of course at almost 69, and even as a kid helping Dad & Uncles & Grandfathers work on cars & hanging around with their car buddies since the 1950s - perhaps I've just seen & heard of more such cases than you & others.

Another concern for the OP & consideration for all with older model RVs is illustrated by my neighbor up the street with the 2007-08 Roadtrek - & for the OP with a 2008 Roadtrek - is that the vehicles are now 13-14 years old now, so maybe that AT park isn't as tight or secure as it used to be, &/or that parking brake mechanism &/or cable is worn, etc. which would be even more likely to want to chock the wheels in case of such a wear & age induced failure.

So now you can return the favor for everybody - & look up in your owners manual, & then tell us all on here what MBZ says about working under your Sprinter?

And the OP on here & all reading also should actually read your owners manuals for your respective vehicles as well - before you crawl under them to work on them, change oil, tire, etc.

Homemade & store-bought chocks are cheap safety measures, & IMHO they should be used at all times whenever getting under a vehicle, changing tires, etc. - whether on flat & level or sloped &/or uneven ground.

Cheers!

Tom
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[dmb496]

I have a set of these and have used them frequently. They give a 6" lift.

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by dmb496

I have a set of these and have used them frequently. They give a 6" lift.

https://www.harborfreight.com/13000-...set-63956.html

Those are cheaper than I paid for 2 x 12 wood to achieve a 6” lift.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Davydd

Those are cheaper than I paid for 2 x 12 wood to achieve a 6” lift.

When I built mine, I used wood from the "cull" pile at Home Depot. Very economical, and I didn't care about the cosmetics.

[Tom_T]

Originally Posted by Davydd

Those are cheaper than I paid for 2 x 12 wood to achieve a 6” lift.

You can also get them free as waste lumber pieces at construction sites, since the length needed is less than typically used for any floor, ceiling or roof framing - plus you can use 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 & 2x12, etc. - so long as it matches the width of or is wider than your tires.

Also if they're not treated wood, then you'd be well served to treat them with the green or brown outdoor wood treatment to help protect them from the critters & elements. Whatever you use around the house for decks, fences, etc., or available at the local home improvement or hardware store.

I used "free" 2x10s to build the ramps for our single axle 1960 Avion T20 trailer (275 w.), as well as free 2x8s for our 1988 VW Westfalia (195 then 205 w. tires). If you have very wide tires on your vehicle, then you may have to build 2-part ramps out of those standard lumber sizes to use side-by-side (some folks use wide street tires now, or wider off-road tires on their RVs, SUVs, & Class Bs, etc. for boondocking).

However, using the lighter weight leveling blocks or ramps kits that you get for camping may be a better & easier to transport choice - if they're adequate weight rating & if they give enough rise to work on the vehicle - even if they're more expensive than the Harbor Fright, Rhino, Home Depot/Lowes/etc, Northern Tool, & local Auto Store, etc. solid ramp options.

Cheers!
Tom
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[Davydd]

Have you checked the price of wood at Home Depot lately?

You need three 8 ft. 2 x 12 southern yellow pine at $18.48 each to creat two 6” lift ramps. That’s roughly $55 vs $42 for the Harbor Freight ramps and why I said what I said. With that I could not get pine but had to settle for more expensive Douglas Fir that cost me about $60 because that was their only 2 x 12s and there were no culls to be had.

Of course I pass by a company that stacks up their wood pallets and crates offering them to passerbys as free lumber. Piles of them every week. I could use those mostly 1 x but the nails and screws might exceed the price of those Harbor Freight ramps.

[Davydd]

I have a 7-1/2” tread surface so those Harbor Freight ramps I would not entertain as they have no forgiveness at 7-1/2” width. That goes for 2 x 8s as well. 2 x 10s have about an inch each side forgiveness but 2 x 12s are better yet.

I’m not going to haul them. They will be for shop use only.

I’m an architect and very familiar with construction sites. You probably would spend more for gas trying to accumulate scrap 2 x 12s and the contractor would be a piss poor contractor if you could find any scraps over 2 feet long in wood with 10” width and up.