Quiet Suburban furnace?????

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mike

Interesting. I would probably consider trying a DIY replacement, but I'm sure my co-pilot would object. Perhaps at some point, when we get some other functionally critical items taken care of, I'll make a short list of upgrades and try to schedule a big bang style installation party at an RV repair shop.
Alaska? After the winter we just had?
(actually, we've been talking about Alaska, too. maybe next summer. we figure it'll be an 8 week trip at least, probably 2 weeks travel each way, to and from?)

If things go well on a few trial runs this summer, Alaska would be next year, and be 2-3 months. We have a 3 week coming up in June, and in the fall will be looking at 6-8 weeks, plus a lot of short ones in between. Alaska was supposed to be this year, with the practice last year, but a family issue set it all back a year. The goal, now that we have the upgrades in place, is to see how well/long the off grid works out for us over a long trip, as that will be very important in Alaska, I hear.

[AK49er]

Come on up boys, the weathers fine. The setup that Booster is doing will be well worth the time and money he has spent for his time up here. The road system is so small compared to land mass of the state that there are not many full hookups to use. There are many pull offs to use and many side roads to use also. A good solar setup is needed. Don't get me wrong there are full hookups in some of the larger towns, but that is what you will get... larger towns just like outside. To be really honest about my state, you should fly from Anchorage to all the outlying villages to see the real Alaska that you have pictured in your mind. If you pulled up a detailed map and study it you would find a single North to South road equal to the distance from MN to almost TX and almost the same distance from MN to the East coast. The drive up to here is pretty nice as far as scenery goes but the roads can be a little rough. I have travelled the Rocky Mountains many times and that view is nicer. Last thing to say is... bring bug dope!

[booster]

At this rate, we will probably be having an Alaska/classb forum reunion up there!

[Mike]

Have heard it's harder to get there, than to stay there. Although the bug dope warning is a bit unnerving, because if there's one thing we aren't good with, it's bugs, particularly the biting kind. We talked about that after watching some of the "Alaska" themed TV shows that have recently become more common down here. We are a lot less set up for off grid camping than booster, but we've got the basics. I think we could manage without solar, but it would be a nice addition. I'm more worried about the overall age of our van compared to his.
However, it's still in the plans, somewhere. We'll see how things go.

[booster]

When we first started looking at going to Alaska about 4 years ago, the first thing we did was buy bug hoods and suits! Still in the packages.

[Mike]

We also have gathered some bug gear, not intended for Alaska specifically, but it does include the mosquito net headgear. I'm sure the rest can be had fairly easily, if necessary, and it does seem that in Alaska it's a prerequisite, from all that I've read and seen.

[booster]

I found a place that had the new furnaces for $410, free shipping, no tax, so we ordered one. It showed up yesterday, and I put it in this morning. It took about an hour, but should have been about 10 minutes. I had two things slow it down. Roadtrek has the 4 wires on single wire push connectors, plus the wire colors don't match the furnace, so everything had to be labelled, and I had to cut off the connectors and solder them onto the wires on the new furnace because I didn't have any connectors that matched. Without that it is two screws in the bezel, two screws in the front on the furnace to the bottom of the cabinet, and the gas connection. Pull on it, and it is out.

Going back in was tougher, as it wouldn't engage the tubes from the outside vent in the side of the van. I measured and the spacing on the new furnace was .100 wider than on the old one. I was able to pull them in to be the same, with some heavy leather gloves on. It was still tough to get back in because the outside vent is a flat piece screwed to the curved van, which pigeon toes the tubes in even more. I should have gotten the ones in the furnace even closer together, but it did finally engage.

It started and ran fine, although the flame is a touch yellow, so I need to look at that.

It is quieter, but mostly it is less irritating. Similar to putting the resonator on an Onan, not lots quieter but not as harsh a sound. It does now appear to be quieter than the air conditioner. The sound it has now is the air moving and a background hum. The pulsing, grating, sound ours had is gone.

Was it worth the $410 investment (hopefully we can get $100+ for the old one) or $310 net. Probably, but we will know better when we sleep with it on. Would it be worth dropping $800+ at the dealer? I think at that cost, I would find a better use for the $800.

No parts list in the manual, and I didn't disassemble it look at everything, but peaking in through the vent holes and back, it looks like the combustion fan blower is different by a bit. The circulation fan may have a bit less pitch on it, and there looked to be a few different components on the circuit board. My guess would be that you would need at least the complete blower assembly and the circuit board to switch it yourself, and that might well be over 1/2 the cost of a new furnace, and has some risk to it.

[Mike]

Next time we're in the M/SP, MN area in winter, we'll drop by and have a listen. If it truly is quieter, it should be tougher to sneak up on you while you're sleeping. Less furnace noise for cover.
I wonder if the yellow flame is simply paint that needs to burn off, or whatever they treat them with for transport to prevent corrosion before the first use?

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mike

Next time we're in the M/SP, MN area in winter, we'll drop by and have a listen. If it truly is quieter, it should be tougher to sneak up on you while you're sleeping. Less furnace noise for cover.
I wonder if the yellow flame is simply paint that needs to burn off, or whatever they treat them with for transport to prevent corrosion before the first use?

I would think the new Roadtreks should have the new furnaces in them also, if you can find one at a dealer who will turn it on for you. Don't need the gas on even to hear it run.

[Mike]

OK, I can take a hint.

I wish there was a Roadtrek (or any multi-manufacturer motorhome) dealer closer than the current 40 miles across the river in the US, or 60 miles away in Canada. I'm sure most of them are using the newer model in their builds.
Was there an identifying part number, or specific model name on the one you bought?
I'd like to be able identify it without turning it on first, if I run across one somewhere.

[booster]

Originally Posted by Mike

OK, I can take a hint.

I wish there was a Roadtrek (or any multi-manufacturer motorhome) dealer closer than the current 40 miles across the river in the US, or 60 miles away in Canada. I'm sure most of them are using the newer model in their builds.
Was there an identifying part number, or specific model name on the one you bought?
I'd like to be able identify it without turning it on first, if I run across one somewhere.

To be sure, you are welcome hear to listen, but it is a bit of a trek, but we do have free power hookups, too. Perhaps we will all wind up in AK49's backyard swatting bugs next year!

The model number is NT-16SEQ for the 16K btu, non ducted unit, which is what is used on Roadterks. Old part number was the same without the Q. The model, serial number, aren't visible without removing the front grate, but that is only 2 screws. It appears they released this version a couple of years ago, very quietly (no pun intended), so most of the new rigs should have the new version.

[Mike]

Good info, all around.
We aren't fans of bugs, but I think we'll get to Alaska eventually. Preferably before or after the height of bug season, if there is one. The Yukon may also be on the to do list, since it's right next door. I watched a dvd a while back that suggests that one of the highways winds back and forth across the US/Canada border up there, so keep your passport handy.
I hope AK49er knows what he's getting himself into. I'd like to check out his "pet" bald eagles if they're still there next year.

[AK49er]

We just did a 4 day trip close by and the skeeters were BIG and hungry, a lot of bug dope goes a little ways. The eagles have been sitting on an egg or eggs for 9 days now. If I knew how to do the digital camera/computer thing I would show pictures of lots of things. One of these days I'll learn how to move into the 20th century and show you all what my neck of the woods looks like, sorry Booster, didn't mean to change the subject of your thread earlier, I'll try not to let it happen again.

[Davydd]

We have all the mosquito gear simply because we live in Minnesota. We never used it in our trip to Alaska other than some repellant. We were up there July and August. I wouldn't recommend going any earlier because of all the spring washout and frost heave road repair. It was pretty much over when we got on the Alaska Highway a few days after July 4 except for about a 40 mile gravel stretch in the Yukon where they were still repairing some major washouts that had trapped people for a few days two years ago including some BEE Social Group friends who were about three weeks ahead of us on the trip.

[gerrym51]

Booster- whats your opinion of this more quiet suburban furnace now.

[booster]

Originally Posted by gerrym51

Booster- whats your opinion of this more quiet suburban furnace now.

We did get to use the furnace for the first time on our last trip, as we were off grid for a few nights when it got cool out. It certainly isn't "quiet" like the literature would imply, but at least for us, it took us from waking up every time it ran to only noticing it when we first went to bed. That makes it usable for us, where the old one really wasn't much use except during the day, so I would have to say it was worth it to do, especially since we got nearly 1/2 the cost back by selling the original one on Craigslist. I think I would really hesitate if it were to cost the full $800 we were quoted at the dealer. We netted out at about $260 for the whole thing.

[larrylwill]

Originally Posted by booster

We did get to use the furnace for the first time on our last trip, as we were off grid for a few nights when it got cool out. It certainly isn't "quiet" like the literature would imply, but at least for us, it took us from waking up every time it ran to only noticing it when we first went to bed. That makes it usable for us, where the old one really wasn't much use except during the day, so I would have to say it was worth it to do, especially since we got nearly 1/2 the cost back by selling the original one on Craigslist. I think I would really hesitate if it were to cost the full $800 we were quoted at the dealer. We netted out at about $260 for the whole thing.

There is an app you can download which is a sound meter. Would you download it and measure the sound at say 2ft in front of it so I can compare it against my 2008 model? Another thought do we really need these furnaces running at full tilt? Maybe slowing down the fan and a smaller orifice on the burner would be better, I also see some people moving to convection heaters like the heater buddy which is approved for inside use and RV's. If I could find something like that that I could fit in the furnace housing even if I had to enlarge it I would do it, however it would have to have a thermostat.

[booster]

Originally Posted by larrylwill

There is an app you can download which is a sound meter. Would you download it and measure the sound at say 2ft in front of it so I can compare it against my 2008 model? Another thought do we really need these furnaces running at full tilt? Maybe slowing down the fan and a smaller orifice on the burner would be better, I also see some people moving to convection heaters like the heater buddy which is approved for inside use and RV's. If I could find something like that that I could fit in the furnace housing even if I had to enlarge it I would do it, however it would have to have a thermostat.

I will look into the sound meter, but it may not show much intensity change, as a lot of the improvement is the kind of sound it is. (kind of like the resonator on an Onan does) Our 2007 unit had an irritating, metallic, rasping sound to it that was very unpleasant. The new one is more of a droning sound, plus airflow noise as it moves more air than the old one did. Better for getting the heat distributed to the rear that way, too.

[larrylwill]

Originally Posted by booster

I will look into the sound meter, but it may not show much intensity change, as a lot of the improvement is the kind of sound it is. (kind of like the resonator on an Onan does) Our 2007 unit had an irritating, metallic, rasping sound to it that was very unpleasant. The new one is more of a droning sound, plus airflow noise as it moves more air than the old one did. Better for getting the heat distributed to the rear that way, too.

I think you will be surprised how good it works. The name of the one I use is called Sound Meter.

[booster]

Sound meter by BlackFlame Media on a Motorola Droid Mini, Android.

Baseline in van about 30db

Running at 15" 65-70db

Running at 30" 52-57db

In rear on at bed 45 db

Furnace is in the armoir right behind the driver's seat.