questions for wincrasher - Promaster battery

[gerrym51]

Hi wincrasher,

i have a question about not starting my new van.

how long have you been able to not start your van before the parasitic loads deplete the starting battery to long to start? do you think in general i could get away with 2 weeks?

just wondering-i will be parking the van 8 miles from where i live.

[wincrasher]

Originally Posted by gerrym51

Hi wincrasher,

i have a question about not starting my new van.

how long have you been able to not start your van before the parasitic loads deplete the starting battery to long to start? do you think in general i could get away with 2 weeks?

just wondering-i will be parking the van 8 miles from where i live.

When I first got it, I let it sit for a couple months and it still would start. But since then, I always have left it on a battery tender. I'm sure the radio/gps and the alarm system have some kind of parasitic draw.

On the dash, there is also a switch to join the automotive 12v system with the coach 12v, so that you could start the engine off the house battery (technically both house and chassis).

If there is no 110v service where you are storing the van, then you could get a small solar panel and leave it on the dashboard to trickle the chassis battery.

[markopolo]

Roadtrek had been using Sure Power battery separators.
Some Sure Power units are bi-directional.

MODEL 1315-200 This unit will activate only when either the Main OR Auxiliary Battery System exceeds 13.2 volts*.

Are you getting solar on your Zion? If so, and if you get the right model Sure Power battery separator then both coach and chassis batteries should be maintained (if the van is stored outside).

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Roadtrek had been using Sure Power battery separators.
Some Sure Power units are bi-directional.

Are you getting solar on your Zion? If so, and if you get the right model Sure Power battery separator then both coach and chassis batteries should be maintained (if the van is stored outside).

i'm getting 2 100 watt solar panels-i will probably plug a 5 watt solar tender type into the 12 volt dash panel. i've looked a several models

[markopolo]

If the battery separator is bi-directional then no need for anything else.
It would be easy to check. Just park the van in the sun. Let it sit for a bit, use the dash radio, use chassis lights etc. to remove any surface charge on chassis battery. Then check chassis battery voltage. If the voltage is 13.2v or more then you know both batteries are being maintained as built by Roadtrek. If not then a chassis battery solar tender could be what you need.

[gerrym51]

Wincrasher

another question.

Does your OBDll port supply power when the promaster is turned off? i'm looking to use a trickle solar panel that uses the obdll port. thanks

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by markopolo

If the battery separator is bi-directional then no need for anything else.
It would be easy to check. Just park the van in the sun. Let it sit for a bit, use the dash radio, use chassis lights etc. to remove any surface charge on chassis battery. Then check chassis battery voltage. If the voltage is 13.2v or more then you know both batteries are being maintained as built by Roadtrek. If not then a chassis battery solar tender could be what you need.

Mark, after checking with roadtrek i believe you are correct-thanks

[markopolo]

That's great Gerry. Assuming that RT is using the 1315-200 model then this is a summary of how it works (edited copy paste):

The BATTERY SEPARATOR monitors the battery system to determine if the batteries are being charged. When the engine or auxiliary batteries (model 1315-200 is used), reach 13.2 volts, indicating charging is taking place, the BATTERY SEPARATOR will engage, joining the two battery banks. If the drain on the charging system by the auxiliary or main battery bank reduces the system voltage below 12.8 volts, the BATTERY SEPARATOR will disconnect the battery banks from each other, thus protecting the respective battery banks from excessive drain.

A delay function has been incorporated in the control circuit to prevent the BATTERY SEPARATOR from reacting to momentary voltage fluctuations and chattering.

rockymtnb pointed out that there is some current loss with that model - link: http://www.classbforum.com/phpBB2/vi...tart=22#p26017 - but that shouldn't affect what you need it to do which is maintain two already charged batteries.

I'm assuming that coach and chassis batteries will be near full charge when you park the van in storage after driving there. Use the coach battery disconnect as intended for storage and make sure the inverter is off.

It will work that way when you plug in also.

[markopolo]

The Auxiliary Start Connection is optional - meaning that there are additional installation steps required for it to work. Do you know if RT installed it that way?

[booster]

At least on the older Roadtreks like our 07 Chevy, the auxiliary start is not connected on the separator, but the connection is there. I was told they didn't connect it because the wiring from the coach is not large enough to handle van starting current, which it isn't. If they have big enough wiring in the Promaster or other newer models, I think all it takes is putting 12v on that start connection to close the separator. There is a downside of having the auxiliary start switch, though. If you forget it on, you will put a good sized load on all you batteries. Our separator pulls around 1.4 amps when closed, so you could go flat on everything if the van sat a while

[gerrym51]

No.

i have read varying opinions of emergency start. the surepower 1315-200 has several parametrs that have to be met before it will perform.

it does these functions well as you know although it uses 1.5 amps.

however i read that emergency start is a 'bombs away' function that forces the surepower to ignore all safety parameters.

if you use it you may start but then destroy some of your system

i suppose if your stuck in the middle of nowhere it's an emergency-but under normal conditions the 1315-20 will usually help you start and not need the emergency start

[markopolo]

Gerry - what feature are you referring to in this post on RV.net http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fusea ... m#28218770

............. it also attempts to get your starting battery extra power from your house batteries at startup..............

Auxiliary Start Connection, automatic or manual, is optional according to the installation instructions: PDF: http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.co ... 14-200.pdf

Did you find out if RT installs the extra wiring or not?

[gerrym51]

they d'ont install auxiliary start. i d'ont know about the wiring.

i was refering to this


When the starter is activated the Battery Separator compares the voltage of both battery banks. If the chassis' battery is lower the the auxiliary battery bank, the Battery Separator will engage, allowing the auxiliary battery bank to aid in vehicle starting. The start signal must be at least three volts for this operation to occur.


this was a copy phrase-i don't know why does not show as blue color

i think the 'emergency start' allows the starter battery to drain the house battery even if it does not meet this specification

[avanti]

Originally Posted by booster

There is a downside of having the auxiliary start switch, though. If you forget it on, you will put a good sized load on all you batteries. Our separator pulls around 1.4 amps when closed, so you could go flat on everything if the van sat a while

I am in the middle of installing an aux start switch of this type. I am going to use a momentary-closed switch at the driver's console. That way, forgetting to turn it off is impossible.

[markopolo]

That has to be wired in Gerry.

8. Auxiliary Start Connection (optional). Automatic operation. Connect a #14 gauge wire from the start position of the ignition switch to the Start terminal of the Battery Separator. Make this connection at the ignition switch. This wire should only have voltage when the ignition switch is in the start position. Note: The start signal must be able to produce at least 3V* in order to provide automatic boost, see connection diagram above for manual operation option.

Auxiliary Start can be automatic or manual but still has to be wired in to work that way. It will only function as a bi-directional separator if you don't add the optional wiring.

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by markopolo

That has to be wired in Gerry.

Auxiliary Start can be automatic or manual but still has to be wired in to work that way. It will only function as a bi-directional separator if you don't add the optional wiring.

i think your talking to avanti- roadtrek does not have it-i will not have it

the phrase i posted has nothing to do with emergency start

[markopolo]

Talking to you Gerry. This is what you posted:

Robert- roadtrek installs the surepower 1315-200 on its vans.

it is bidirectional. it also attempts to get your starting battery extra power from your house batteries at startup. i researched it.

It doesn't work that way unless you specifically wire it in that way.

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Talking to you Gerry. This is what you posted:

It doesn't work that way unless you specifically wire it in that way.

mark-thanks for the info-i though emergency start and hose battery start was same thing. Will my solar panels still charge the starter battery? Jim Hammill said it would.

i guess i assumed if my solar panels would charge starter battery( i asked Jim Hammill twice) and he insisted this was the case.

i've already decided to carry this-when your prepared nothing happens

http://www.amazon.com/Clore-JNC660-Jump ... ry+jumpers

[markopolo]

Yes, it will connect both batteries provided it senses at least 13.2 volts on one of the batteries.

That will work while:
1. Engine running
2. When plugged in
3. When Solar panels output at least 13.2 volts

If the voltage drops to 12.8 volts or below then the two batteries will be separated again.

[gerrym51]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Yes, it will connect both batteries provided it senses at least 13.2 volts on one of the batteries.

That will work while:
1. Engine running
2. When plugged in
3. When Solar panels output at least 13.2 volts

If the voltage drops to 12.8 volts or below then the two batteries will be separated again.

just to show my ignorance- is 13.2 volts got anything to do with how many amps i'm getting?
i really don't understand this stuff