Propane hose fitttings at the regulator.

[<<B-Guy>>]

Well, I'm a t embarrassed to even ask this question as I feel I should know

Best to ask before I screw something up!

I suspect the regulator on my B van is not up to par.

I started to suspect this because the flames on our cooktop seemed very low, and also, although it would eventually start, thw gennie always too a few tries to get going.

So I made up a simple manometer and checked the gas pressure at the BBQ quick disconnect.

It measured just around 7"- 8" of water column and I thnk it should be around 11.5".

I had read that messages from other owners that the regulator on our (almost new) B van is not of very good quality and people had already experienced problems and replaced it , so I had already gone ahead and ordered a decent quality Marshall regulator just to carry as a spare - I think now might be a good time to install it.

I probably should just go back to the dealer and have him fix it since it as the van is barely a year old, but they are an hour and a half drive each way, and who knows when they could do it.

One of those things better to just go ahead and do it myself, thought I.

Today went out to do that.

Shut off the manual valve at the tank and bled the pressure of the lines and found the regulator.

Here is what I am not sure about ......

When I put a wrench on the fittings at the regulator, they turn easily enough but just twist up the gas hoses so I stopped and have not yet removed them.

I am thinking that the swaged on brass collars (or whatever they are called!) on the ends of the hoses are in fact swivel fittings and if so I should only need to carefully hold the collar with the channel locks, and I should then be able to just wind the male pipe threaded fitting back out of the regulator and it will just swivel in the hose end that I am holding, and so allow me to remove the hose connection from it from the regulator.


Does that seem right, or do I need to actually free up the reguator so I can rotate it? doesn't seem I should need to do that, but may be!

Can anyone advise me so I don't mae assumptions and mess things up!

(And yes, I do have the yellow teflon tape to use, and not the white, and will soap test !)

Thanks ............ Brian.

[hbn7hj]

Can't answer about the fitting but using teflon tape on the threads is open to putting teflon tape particles in the propane system. If you use it be very carefull not to let it extend beyond the thread. Yellow propane pipe thread dope would be a better deal.

[<<B-Guy>>]

Thanks - good point, and I was aware of that and normally do not run the tape to the end of the threads for that reason!

Just need to know about the male connectors on the end of the hose as to whether or not they are made to swivel in the brass hose end ferrules ( think they are), so I can hold the end of the hose with pliers as I loosen the fitting to prevent the hose from twisting up as I loosen the fittings!

[hbn7hj]

I don't think male fittings swivel. When swivel is needed a male to male fitting is used and the swivel female hose fitting is used. Looks like they went cheap on you.

[<<B-Guy>>]

That's what I was starting to wonder!

The hose with the male fitting it the output hose and teh other end vanishes way under towards the front of the van, with hose clamps all the way!

Tomorrow, I will take another look - the input high pressure hose is short, only coming from the manual and electric valve at the propane tank- maybe I can just remove it first at the valve end (hopefuly a female swivel(!) then free up the regulator itself and just rotate the whole regulator to got it off the the male fitting on the output hose! There does not appear to be a female swivel + male to male adapter on the output side - that would have made it too easy for me !

I new they made swivel female hose ends and was hoping they also made male ones!


Thanks again ............. Brian

[<<B-Guy>>]

Ok, Job done - propane regulator changed on a 2109 PW Plateau FL.

I had suspected there might be a problem, as the flames on our cooktop seemed really low on max compared to previous trailers we had owed.

As well, the Onan generator, while it would start and run, always took several tries and when it did eventually start, it always seemed to be "Hunting" when running - ie, revs cycling up and down a bit.

To check the propane pressure, I made up a simple manometer with a quick disconnect plug so as to connect itto the BBQ outlet.

Found the pressure to be at best 8.5" water column with nothing running and dropping to around 7" when I was using propane.

Nominal is supposed to be 11.5" as far as I know
.
I had already bought a good quality Marshall regulator to carry as a spare - some people had experienced problems with the make of regulator PW is currently using and recommended the Marshall as a better unit.

A good tme to put it on! I suppose I could have gone to the dealer and had the work done under warranty, but sometimes it just isn't worth the hassle for a small item - and the more I learn about the van the better.

I thought it would be a very quick job but it took a little more time than I expected.

The low pressure output hose from the regulator uses a male pipe fitting and as far as I could judge, it does not swivel on the hose - I think some do. It is a long hose that runs up toward the front of the van and is clipped all the way so not easy to just undo the other end of the hose and let it rotate as you unscrew it from the regulator.

I had to remove the shorter high pressure input hose between the solenoid/manual valve assembly and the input side of the regulator first, then remove the regulator and it's bracket so I could rotate the whole regulator assembly to free it from the output hose!

There was also a large protective steel plate around the solenoid valve area that I removed for better access.

So it was a bit more work than expected.

The good news is that now I have even a little more than the nominal 11.5" water column pressure, probably about 12"- 12.5" even with both cooktop burners on and the gennie running.

Good flames on the cooktop burners, and the gennie holds its revs nicely! I expect it will be good for our three way fridge and furnace as well.

I am actually surprised I did not have more appliance issues with the low pressure.

Maybe I will buy another Marshall regulator from Amazon to carry as a spare - and hopefully not need!

Brian.

[hbn7hj]

Don't bother with a spare. They are suppposed to be replaced every 10 years due to the rubber content. Did you ever try adjusting the old one? Clockwise increases pressure. Use it as a spare.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Don't bother with a spare. They are supposed to be replaced every 10 years due to the rubber content. Did you ever try adjusting the old one? Clockwise increases pressure. Use it as a spare.

Do you have a reference for that?

I don't disbelieve you - common sense says the same thing. But when I say things like that on other forums, the response I get is, "Says who??"

I am one of those people who is carrying a spare regulator at all times for our 12-year-old rig. I've been hesitant to replace it because part of me says "if ain't broke don't fix it". But it probably should be done. It's just a job we haven't tackled yet, one for this fall when the weather cools down.

[hbn7hj]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

Do you have a reference for that?

The label on the package on the last one I bought from Marshall Excelsior is where I got it. The same for rubber propane lines but I can’t remember where I read that. Tire shops won’t mount a tire over 10 years old. I had a 12 year old tire totally disintegrate on a car in a turn from a stoplight. Put it all together and it seems reasonable.

Also I had a leaking propane regulator at 8 years old. At the same time, when I had a 10 year old regulator that was working fine it
took me a year or two to get around to replacing it.

As an aside the mounting bolt pattern from a Camping world/Camco regulator is a bit different from a Marshall Excelsior regulator which is a real pain if you need them to be the same.

[<<B-Guy>>]

<<Don't bother with a spare. They are suppposed to be replaced every 10 years due to the rubber content. Did you ever try adjusting the old one? Clockwise increases pressure. Use it as a spare.>>





Actually I was thinking about keeping it as a temporary emergency spare. I removed the black cap, and underneath saw a large white round component, almost as large as the cap, with what looked to be a wide screwdriver slot right across it. But it had a hole in the centre and down there I saw what looked like a small allan key socket. I was guessing that might be the adjusterand teh white piece just some sort of retainer, but I didn't try anything.

I decided that if I was going to carry a spare, why mess around with something dubious and maybe I would just get another Marshall unit if Id anything at all!

[hbn7hj]

Should have just adjusted the original one with an allan wrench and been done with it. New installations should be checked for pressure which you have done. Just back it out a bit if you want 11.5 “.

Roadtrek Chevy vans have to drop the tank for adjustment access.

[<<B-Guy>>]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

Should have just adjusted the original one with an allan wrench and been done with it..

Maybe so, could have saved me a few$$ !

But having heard several bad reviews of the original regulator, and already having bought a supposedly superior product, I wanted to reduce my risk ofhaving future problems, so I felt I was taking the best route!

The old regulator may not have held its adjustment even if I had fiddled with it and I'd just as soon not get lying in the dirt getting it down to tinker with it repeatedly!

At least though, you don't have to drop the propane tank on the Sprinter to get to the regulator!

Brian.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by hbn7hj

The label on the package on the last one I bought from Marshall Excelsior is where I got it. The same for rubber propane lines but I can’t remember where I read that. ....

Thank you. I plan to check the wording on my spare regulator package the next time I get over to our van's storage garage.

IF there is a place where a similar declaration is made about the propane lines, I'd love to receive that information. Those lines are not stock items. Generally they are fabricated for individual applications. As such, they don't generally come in a commercial package that could supply that information.

After hearing of several Class B owners with propane line breaches (including a friend whose van I inspected personally), I dove into research and replacement of our lines, a process which I describe here.

But what I claimed in that blog post about age of lines was not corroborated beyond my phone discussion with the hose manufacturer. I'd love to find something published definitively that we could supply to other owners as a PSA.

Why? Because people still don't take the issue as seriously as I believe they ought to. Here is an example from just a few weeks ago of yet another uncontrolled propane line breach on a Class B. That poster is actually **a moderator** on that other forum, and knew full well in advance about the age-related degradation of propane lines, and still opted not to replace hers preemptively.

Each of us makes our own personal risk management decisions, sure. But to know that flammable gas lines are at imminent risk of breach three feet from where you sleep at night, and to just let them go....?! Ah, it would never be my choice. Again, with emphasis this time: It was not my choice.

[JohnnyFry]

I have adjusted my regulator when I measured 9” water column. It tool a large (3/8 or 5/16) allan wrench. I put it up to 11.0 and it made a positive difference.

[Nspekter]

Filled the propane tank a few weeks ago. Shut the valve off at the tank and it was fine until I opened it and ran the generator for 10-15 minutes. After I shut down the generator I started smelling propane and went back and closed the valve at the tank. Still smelled propane until the tank was empty. Do the valves go bad as well as the hoses?

[Nspekter]

Btw, it’s a 2013 Winnebago Era 170A.

[hbn7hj]

Gotta find exactly where the leak is. Through the packing around the valve handle, not likely as it wouldn't leak with valve off. Valve doesn't close completely?

You could use a propane sniffer. This one has worked well for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soap bubbles work but I haven't been too successful with them.

[Nspekter]

Getting a new regulator and tank shut off valve installed. I just don’t have the time to do it myself.