Paint or bodywork questions?

[Eraygunz]

Hello.
I have worked in the auto restoration buisness for many years.
Just thought I would put it out there for anybody needing a little help.
I have painted just about ever type surface you can think of.
Worked on million dollar Rollers (RollsRoyce). Top line show cars,many that ended up on covers of magizens.
And of course several different dealerships .
So, if I can be of service...and answer any questions you have let me know.
Cheers.
Eddie

[MsNomer]

Thank you. I have some questions. I would like to paint the dark ABS interior panel of my van slider white. It would be subject to weather when the door is open, so I guess it would be similar to painting a bumper. Is this something I could do myself? If so, what would I use? How durable would it be?

[Eraygunz]

Hello.
First question I have to ask is how handy are you?
Second ,what type of tools do you have available?
Abs plastic is used through out the cars made today. Might be more plastic then metal on some cars?
When painting ANYTHING prep is king!
Best paint in the world is gonna be terrible on an improperly prepped substrate(surface).
If you have an air compressor available? Your options are almost limitless..
If not,still goods ways to get her done.
Most automotive paint supply houses will sell most of their items over the counter.......unless you live in like California.
First thing is to get the surface nice and clean. With something Prepsall or any automotive wax and grease remover.
Second,you must scuff the surface to allow the new paint something to stick too. On plastic a grey or red scotch brite is ideal.
So far we have cleaned it and scuffed it.
Next we need to mask off the area ,so we don't make a mess.
Newspaper will often work. But make it several layers thick in case it bleeds through a little.
A roll of painters masking paper is pretty cheap,and makes it much easier.
Once it's all masked off.....we will clean it again with wax and grease remover.
Then we want to use a tack rag to remove the dust and stuff from the surface.
Now with plastics,I would recommend you use a adhesion promoter!
It will help the paint bond to the plastic.
If you are not going to get your supplies from the auto paint store.
Many places like Walmart,Auto zone and the like often carry a product called Bulldog. Usually in a blue shaky can.
Just prior to painting you want to just lightly mist the surface with adhesion promoter. Follow directions on the can ...some are wet on wet ...others need to sit and dry for just a few minutes.
Now for the paint.
Some of the new Shaky can paints are actually pretty good. Krylon makes them especially for plastic..
I would suggest you try a couple of small test strokes on some paper or other item before you try painting your actual item.
Almost everyone tries to put to much paint on to quick!You want several thin nice even coats. Not one or two heavy coats.
Go slow. Use what we call a hang coat if you think it will run.
A hang coat is just a coat sprayed a little further from the panel....it leaves a little texture for the true coats to cling to.
If you have an air compressor available ....then a good quality base coat clear coat would give you your best result.
But if you prep it nice ,get it nice and clean. You should be able to get the look you want with what's available in any good hardware type store . But do try practicing on some paper or cardboard before you start with the actual painting. I know I said that already....but it really is a good idea
Wow.
This is really long, but these are the basic steps you need to take before you
paint most surfaces.
If you have any questions or want a little more detail with any step. Just ask,or private message me if you'd like.
You local automotive paint store folks are often very helpful. And can often recommend the materials you should use.
Hope I can help.
Thanks
Eddie
Thanks
Eddie

[Eraygunz]

I hope it didn't make this sound too complicated?
It's really not hard to do.
Again ,I am here to answer any questions you may have along the way.
Eddie

[Phoebe3]

Originally Posted by Eraygunz

A hang coat is just a coat sprayed a little further from the panel....it leaves a little texture for the true coats to cling to.
If you have an air compressor available ....then a good quality base coat clear coat would give you your best result.

Thanks for that detailed explanation!

Could I get a little clarification? Looks like you just spray from a greater distance to get the "hang coat" - correct?

Next question: Why does it require an air compressor for the clear base coat?

One more: Do you have a specific brand of paint you recommend?

Thanks!

[Eraygunz]

Good morning.
Yes, a tack coat.
Is a coat sprayed a little further away.
It will give your wet coats something to stick too.
They will be less likely to run.
Don't forget to leave a few minutes between coats . This is called flash time.
Which ever product you use will probably have directions on the can.
Hope this will help.
Eddie

[Eraygunz]

If you go to an auto paint place they will suggest what you should use. I will not know what they have available.
If you got to a hardware store.
I would probably suggest the Krylon for plactic.
But if possible do find and use an adhesion promoter....such as bulldog.
Eddie

[Saldar]

I never heard of an adhesion promoter. That trick great to know about.

[Eraygunz]

Hi.
They made different ones for different surfaces.
Bulldog is a pretty good general purpose one.
They have stuff for plastic .steel, aluminum.etc.......
Just scuff it first to give the paint something to grab on to and GO!
Edfie

[InterBlog]

Wish you were closer to Texas. I've got a very common camper van conversion-related problem... the miserably lazy upfitter didn't properly seal the edges of the body cut-outs and now I've got a few places with corrosion proceeding methodically outward from those cut-outs, corrosion underneath the top coat of paint. At some point I'm going to have to hire someone to tackle that repair, cutting out the rotten metal, replacing, and then refinishing to look seamless and professional. It's on my to-do list but I haven't commenced the research yet as to what I should be looking for in terms of a specialist.

[Eraygunz]

Hi.
Sorry to hear about your problem.
Rust is a lot like cancer.
In that the sooner you do something about it the better.
Once it gets to a certain point....it's a losing battle.
It's hard to find some one who specializes in RV restoration.
Twenty years ago when I lived in Houston.
There was a guy..... probably long gone now.
Many Bodyshop won't touch an RV because of the unfamiliarity with how they are built.
Eastwood used to sell stuff to seal rust .
Not sure if they still do.ir how effective it is
Keep the area well waxed. As that may help keep the moisture out.
Good luck,don't wait too long to address the problem.
Eddie

[JohnK]

Eddie

Sorry if this is a repeat post but I don't see my first one listed.

I recently completed some minor fiberglass repair on my Roadtrek. Replaced / patched chunk on lower corner of front pass. wheel well / foot step. Anyway it's sanded and primed.

I don't have a compressor or spray gun. Can you recommend a source for custom mixed paint in a spray can? I've found a few online but have they mixed reviews.

Thanks
John

[booster]

Originally Posted by JohnK

Eddie

Sorry if this is a repeat post but I don't see my first one listed.

I recently completed some minor fiberglass repair on my Roadtrek. Replaced / patched chunk on lower corner of front pass. wheel well / foot step. Anyway it's sanded and primed.

I don't have a compressor or spray gun. Can you recommend a source for custom mixed paint in a spray can? I've found a few online but have they mixed reviews.

Thanks
John

Some local paint and body supply shops still fill cans, last time I looked a few years ago we had a NAPA store that does in Minneapolis, but that was over 5 years ago. Results can be spotty but mainly for color match but the paint can be good quality and adhere well. There always has to be a worry about the compatibility of the paint with the store bought canned primers, too, as lifting and poor bonding if very common.


If you can't find it in a can, you may also be able to buy a pint or even half pint of normal color matched paint and get a little sprayer that runs off small disposable cannisters of compressed gas.


It is very, very hard to match the gun applied metallics finishes with a can paint in nearly all cases as you can't change air pressures and viscosity to get the right metallic layout. Even worse if you use single stage paint to try to match a base and clear metallic. Manybody shops around here, who mix their own paint, have an add on charge for paint mixing if the factory mix data isn't correct as it is not an easy thing to do and may take several tries and sample paint pieces.



Good luck, I hope you are able to make it work out for you.

[lmittell]

Here's a possibility for rattle cans in matching colors. Expensive. I've never used them, so can't vouch for them. https://touchupdirect.com/?gclid=Cj0...ALw_wcBhttp://

[lmittell]

Here's another-- https://www.automotivetouchup.com/to...-paint/http://

[JohnK]

Thanks! I'll check out those links. And my local NAPA

John

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by MsNomer

Thank you. I have some questions. I would like to paint the dark ABS interior panel of my van slider white. It would be subject to weather when the door is open, so I guess it would be similar to painting a bumper. Is this something I could do myself? If so, what would I use? How durable would it be?

Anytime you paint something it becomes a maintenance issue to keep it up and looking nice....so, unless the inside plastic piece is something you absolutely want or need to change for cosmetic reasons because you can't stand it anymore, then I would advise you NOT to do that.