New to us Roadtrek. Many questions...

[Jfstang]

Hi all, I and my better half are new to the forum. Probably will have lots more dumb, newbie questions, so my apologies up front

I picked up an 05 Roadtrek 190P last fall, well actually it found me as I inherited it from a dear friend who passed last year (old age). I licensed it and it passed a safety with flying colors. It has 78 000 km (around 48500 miles), it's in great shape, been garaged most all it's life. It has slight surface rust on some under parts (like house battery tray hardware) as was run in winter briefly, but body etc is fine. It runs great although the check engine light just came on when I put it into storage a week or so after I got it. I'll get that sorted out when I pull it out from winter storage in April.
I'm collecting parts and opinions on things for it.
1) Premium or regular gas? My next door neighbour ( a great couple!) has a similar age Roadtrek 210, he uses regular. I've read you get a bit better mileage and no ethanol issues with premium. Opinions please? Thanks in advance.
2) I've read and heard from my neighbour about the "Great Shakes" going on long downhills. So I'm planning to do over the brakes proactively. Going to get premium semi metallic pads. Any brands I should prefer over others? EBC Yellowstuff, or Greenstuff, or Wagner Severe Duty Semi Metallic? The rotors feel fine, no wobble at all, should I replace them as well? How about the brake flex lines (which I'm sure are original), are they worth replacing?
3) I'll pick up some Bilsteins, but perhaps later this year or next, keeping eye on budget.
I've already done oil/filter change and air filter.
4) Planning to do brake fluid flush. DOT 3 or 4?
5) Tires are great looking Michelins, lots of tread, no cracks although they are dated 2014, so I think I'm looking to replace ... any current brand recommendation? I'll do a front end alignment while I'm at it.
If this is too long or I need to break these into their own questions, please let me know. Again, thanks in advance.

[mkguitar]

Hello and Welcome


I have a 2006 Pleasure Way Lexor- on a 2005 Chev 3500
( very common that RV is one model year newer than chassis, remember that when buying parts)


I use regular- even the 87 or 85 octane in the American West is ok, the ECM retards the timing to adjust.
At home I use 89
Ethanol is same by volume in both here, you can find non ethanol gas, usually near boats.


I have the Bilsteins and it was an improvement over the worn out shocks- I've posted on the cost, part #'s and install


Michelin Agilis Cross Climates are working very well ( posted on)


also I have the "sumo springs" front and rear on which I've posted- these are a good improvement


cheers, Mike

[booster]

Originally Posted by Jfstang

Hi all, I and my better half are new to the forum. Probably will have lots more dumb, newbie questions, so my apologies up front

I picked up an 05 Roadtrek 190P last fall, well actually it found me as I inherited it from a dear friend who passed last year (old age). I licensed it and it passed a safety with flying colors. It has 78 000 km (around 48500 miles), it's in great shape, been garaged most all it's life. It has slight surface rust on some under parts (like house battery tray hardware) as was run in winter briefly, but body etc is fine. It runs great although the check engine light just came on when I put it into storage a week or so after I got it. I'll get that sorted out when I pull it out from winter storage in April.
I'm collecting parts and opinions on things for it.
1) Premium or regular gas? My next door neighbour ( a great couple!) has a similar age Roadtrek 210, he uses regular. I've read you get a bit better mileage and no ethanol issues with premium. Opinions please? Thanks in advance.
2) I've read and heard from my neighbour about the "Great Shakes" going on long downhills. So I'm planning to do over the brakes proactively. Going to get premium semi metallic pads. Any brands I should prefer over others? EBC Yellowstuff, or Greenstuff, or Wagner Severe Duty Semi Metallic? The rotors feel fine, no wobble at all, should I replace them as well? How about the brake flex lines (which I'm sure are original), are they worth replacing?
3) I'll pick up some Bilsteins, but perhaps later this year or next, keeping eye on budget.
I've already done oil/filter change and air filter.
4) Planning to do brake fluid flush. DOT 3 or 4?
5) Tires are great looking Michelins, lots of tread, no cracks although they are dated 2014, so I think I'm looking to replace ... any current brand recommendation? I'll do a front end alignment while I'm at it.
If this is too long or I need to break these into their own questions, please let me know. Again, thanks in advance.

1. For gas, we use regular all the time without issue, except for once coming out of Denver. We had the high altitude, I think 85 octane in it and went quickly down to lower elevation. At the lower elevation it would ping a bit and then retard, but got totally gutless into the wind and uphill because of the lost power. We will get midgrade at elevation from now on.


2. You have done your brake research well. If the rotors run true and aren't gouged up you probably don't need to replace them. They should., however, be sanded to remove all traces of the old brake pad friction material that transfers to them. A moderately coarse sanded surface to bare shiny cast iron is what you want. I haven't heard of anyone using EBC pads, so can't say on them, but Wagner pads have been used by several posters with good results. You want the most heavy duty semi-metallic they have. It may be called Heavy Duty, light truck, police duty, etc as companies change the designations all time it seems.


3. Yes on the Bilsteins


4. I like Dot4 myself to get the bit of extra temp handling, but Dot3 is OK also. Just make sure you change either of them every few years. I would use every 3 years if sits inside and doesn't see huge temp swings or every two years if it sits outside. The flex lines, two in front and one in rear are likely due to be replaced, particularly if they have any cracking or checking at all.


5. The go to tire for many of us now is drifting to the Michelin Agilis Cross Climate model. We have them on our 07 190P and they do very well.

[Jfstang]

Excellent info, thank a ton guys. I'll do as you suggest with the brakes, tires and gas. Much appreciated

[sehsteve@gmail.com]

First of all welcome to this great forum. It has been teriffically helpful to me as a newer RV'r. We have a 2002 Dodge 3500 RT 190P.
AS for gasoline I always purchase regular and some places that is 87 and other places 85, no issues with either.
Second, we have Hankook Dynapro HT tires and they have performed well with over 30,000 miles on them and still many more miles to go.
All the best, safe travels.
Stephen

[honeyboy]

Originally Posted by Jfstang

Hi all, I and my better half are new to the forum. Probably will have lots more dumb, newbie questions, so my apologies up front ku

I picked up an 05 Roadtrek 190P last fall, well actually it found me as I inherited it from a dear friend who passed last year (old age). I licensed it and it passed a safety with flying colors. It has 78 000 km (around 48500 miles), it's in great shape, been garaged most all it's life. It has slight surface rust on some under parts (like house battery tray hardware) as was run in winter briefly, but body etc is fine. It runs great although the check engine light just came on when I put it into storage a week or so after I got it. I'll get that sorted out when I pull it out from winter storage in April.
I'm collecting parts and opinions on things for it.
1) Premium or regular gas? My next door neighbour ( a great couple!) has a similar age Roadtrek 210, he uses regular. I've read you get a bit better mileage and no ethanol issues with premium. Opinions please? Thanks in advance.
2) I've read and heard from my neighbour about the "Great Shakes" going on long downhills. So I'm planning to do over the brakes proactively. Going to get premium semi metallic pads. Any brands I should prefer over others? EBC Yellowstuff, or Greenstuff, or Wagner Severe Duty Semi Metallic? The rotors feel fine, no wobble at all, should I replace them as well? How about the brake flex lines (which I'm sure are original), are they worth replacing?
3) I'll pick up some Bilsteins, but perhaps later this year or next, keeping eye on budget.
I've already done oil/filter change and air filter.
4) Planning to do brake fluid flush. DOT 3 or 4?
5) Tires are great looking Michelins, lots of tread, no cracks although they are dated 2014, so I think I'm looking to replace ... any current brand recommendation? I'll do a front end alignment while I'm at it.
If this is too long or I need to break these into their own questions, please let me know. Again, thanks in advance.

Thank you Booster! Exactly what was was going to they’ll them.
Listen to Booster. He’s a wise man….

[Jfstang]

Booster (and others too), thanks again for the helpful info. Will be done. I've been perusing this forum for a short while now and am very impressed at the master class of knowledge presented here. One day I hope to be able to help also in return.
Looking forward - longingly - to spring, where the only salt I see is on my fries

[TX-Trek]

From Booster:
2. You have done your brake research well. If the rotors run true and aren't gouged up you probably don't need to replace them. They should., however, be sanded to remove all traces of the old brake pad friction material that transfers to them. A moderately coarse sanded surface to bare shiny cast iron is what you want. I haven't heard of anyone using EBC pads, so can't say on them, but Wagner pads have been used by several posters with good results. You want the most heavy duty semi-metallic they have. It may be called Heavy Duty, light truck, police duty, etc as companies change the designations all time it seems.

I typically use ceramic pads, but for the van I totally agree with using the severe duty pads. Using Wagner. Be aware they will dust up more but since I clean the van after a trip anyway it's not a big deal.

Suggest you change brake flex hoses at all wheels, even the oem delco are not expensive. This also gives you the chance to flush the entire brake system. In my case I replaced the master cylinder as well, not expensive and straightforward but not saying that needed for you. But the other stuff is cheap insurance.

Check caliper slide pins for easy movement, you can do one at a time. Remove, clean, flush the housing with brake fluid, wipe, and suggest Syl-Glyde for lube. Using petroleum based moly or similar can turn the rubber boots into a sticky mess.

Don't forget about flushing the Power steering system, that stuff gets pretty nasty. Not sure on 190, our 210 uses hydroboost system but regardless flush with fresh fluid. I also added a mag filter on the low pressure return to the reservoir.

Rear axle - change gear lube with a high quality product and use the 4oz additive if it's a posi unit. Check your RPO codes. I like Red line but other good options too.

Change trans fluid and filter with GM fluid and filter.

Check the wiring harness that lays on the drivers side upper control arm. This frequently rubs through and causes the ECU to go crazy.

The benefit of all this is that lets you start from a known baseline vs hoping for the best or making assumptions.

[booster]

Originally Posted by TX-Trek

From Booster:
2. You have done your brake research well. If the rotors run true and aren't gouged up you probably don't need to replace them. They should., however, be sanded to remove all traces of the old brake pad friction material that transfers to them. A moderately coarse sanded surface to bare shiny cast iron is what you want. I haven't heard of anyone using EBC pads, so can't say on them, but Wagner pads have been used by several posters with good results. You want the most heavy duty semi-metallic they have. It may be called Heavy Duty, light truck, police duty, etc as companies change the designations all time it seems.

I typically use ceramic pads, but for the van I totally agree with using the severe duty pads. Using Wagner. Be aware they will dust up more but since I clean the van after a trip anyway it's not a big deal.

Suggest you change brake flex hoses at all wheels, even the oem delco are not expensive. This also gives you the chance to flush the entire brake system. In my case I replaced the master cylinder as well, not expensive and straightforward but not saying that needed for you. But the other stuff is cheap insurance.

Check caliper slide pins for easy movement, you can do one at a time. Remove, clean, flush the housing with brake fluid, wipe, and suggest Syl-Glyde for lube. Using petroleum based moly or similar can turn the rubber boots into a sticky mess.

Don't forget about flushing the Power steering system, that stuff gets pretty nasty. Not sure on 190, our 210 uses hydroboost system but regardless flush with fresh fluid. I also added a mag filter on the low pressure return to the reservoir.

Rear axle - change gear lube with a high quality product and use the 4oz additive if it's a posi unit. Check your RPO codes. I like Red line but other good options too.

Change trans fluid and filter with GM fluid and filter.

Check the wiring harness that lays on the drivers side upper control arm. This frequently rubs through and causes the ECU to go crazy.

The benefit of all this is that lets you start from a known baseline vs hoping for the best or making assumptions.

I agree with Tx-trek, and would add a couple of things.


Yes on Sil-glyde for the caliper pins, no for petroleum greases, but add the some of the specific "brake caliper" greases from some companies will also destroy the rubber parts so stay away from them unless the specifically say safe for rubber parts. There is a long discussion on that issue on this forum from a few years ago.


The hydroboost does dirty up the fluid rapidly, at least on the original fill from GM. When I changed out I used Redline DexronIV synthetic transmission fluid at the recommendation of several very knowledgeable high performance off road truck folks. It has stayed clean for over 30K miles and probably 6-7 years. I check it every year and am always surprised it still looks so good.


The Roadtrek limited slip is really an automatic locker and will work better with no limited slip additive. We have on in ours and use the no additive Redline or Motul gear oils. If you have the auto locker, you also have the 10.5" axle most likely, especially before 2011 which is very, very, good thing.

[TX-Trek]

Thanks Booster, my oversight on the axle additive, I must have still been thinking about that Ford 9.
Correct as you mentioned, no additive used for this axle.