My Vinyl Job

[KurtFranz]

Here are a few pictures of my before and after of my hood in which I did a complete hack job vinyl wrap. The paint was rapidly going south and I wanted to protect the metal from the rain.

Granted it is not pretty and has wrinkles, but it is serving its purpose until I find a replacement or get it painted. I am certain it could have been done much better, but I was pressed for time and did it alone. Actually the finished product looks better than what the picture shows - that was before i used the hair dryer to finish the job. Most of the wrinkles in the front are not there. I should get a better picture - but you get the idea.

It is a good option for those of us with the paint peeling issues - get it done right and no one would notice it being vinyl.

[THEBRAIN]

you know you can pull up on the wrinkled an strech it basically reinstall little sections at a time.

aim the hood directly at the sun it will heat and shrink it tight.

when I wrapped my cruising boat w/ vivid carbon fiber look.
I had simiarl wrinkles on the large panels .

I'm planning to use vivid preforated on my back tinted windows to prevent peeking toms from looking inside van.

the devils at GM have been using inferira paint since day 1 and they don't give a dam.

[Sensfan]

[QUOTE=KurtFranz;145369]Here are a few pictures of my before and after of my hood in which I did a complete hack job vinyl wrap. The paint was rapidly going south and I wanted to protect the metal from the rain.

Good move. Even though we didn’t have peeling, we wrapped the nose, front panels and chrome bumper of our Chevy to protect from rock damage. It also limits UV damage and fading.

[KurtFranz]

my rear doors are bad a well - but that's a bit tougher of a job....

[Sensfan]

Originally Posted by KurtFranz

my rear doors are bad a well - but that's a bit tougher of a job....

I never bought into the “practise makes perfect” phrase, buy it does make you better ... lol

[mkguitar]

Nice Kurt.


My right rear door, hood and feathering both sides along the top cost me $3500 last year.


Now my fenders are going.
I'm going to sand off and feather the white & try to keep the primer in place and then rattle can touch up - 2 spots about 6" diameter once feathered.

[KurtFranz]

Originally Posted by mkguitar

Nice Kurt.


My right rear door, hood and feathering both sides along the top cost me $3500 last year.


Now my fenders are going.
I'm going to sand off and feather the white & try to keep the primer in place and then rattle can touch up - 2 spots about 6" diameter once feathered.

I think I am in the same boat.... Can't be any worse than the current situation. I would like to see your results and any thoughts/advice

[jrobe]

I repaired some big scratch areas on my last car like in this video. It turned out so well that I then went ahead and repainted the whole rear door of the SUV the same way. When I traded the car in at my Lexus dealer a year later, they never noticed that it had been repainted. Frankly, this is probably a better solution than those pictures of the vinyl repair.

https://youtu.be/pr37LFZZTGU

[booster]

Originally Posted by jrobe

I repaired some big scratch areas on my last car like in this video. It turned out so well that I then went ahead and repainted the whole rear door of the SUV the same way. When I traded the car in at my Lexus dealer a year later, they never noticed that it had been repainted. Frankly, this is probably a better solution than those pictures of the vinyl repair.

https://youtu.be/pr37LFZZTGU

I think you were very lucky to get a good match on metallic paint as they notoriously hard to do even for experiences body shops.


The paints often have many variants to match the actual paint that can change slightly over time. Our 07 sand colored Chevy has 5 different variants listed in the PPG mix lists. I need to paint a passenger door and I tried all 5 and none matched the paint Roadtrek had used when the painted everything behind the fenders except the rear doors. One matched darkness perfect looking at 90* and horrible at low angles. Another looked good at low angles and bad at 90*. This, I think, is caused by the "flop" of the metallic affecting reflectivity. One of the paints variants had anitflop in it and the other didn't, but neither was correct for the paint I had on the van.


Good body shops normally mix there own and do a paint match before starting and modify it to match, but it takes time so many don't do it.

[THEBRAIN]

my hood started peeling during the 1st major washing, it's inevitable the cheap crummie paint GM use's is phathtic. rant over.

whats weird is I have the olive green under the crape GM paint.

olive green is the 2 tone on lower van that PW sprayed on.

eventualley I will paint complete van gun metal grey metallic, 2 tone a couple shades darker for lower section (darker for lower shows less dirt). also plan to paint vessel same color.

and definity ditch the tackie stickers.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

I think you were very lucky to get a good match on metallic paint as they notoriously hard to do even for experiences body shops.


The paints often have many variants to match the actual paint that can change slightly over time. Our 07 sand colored Chevy has 5 different variants listed in the PPG mix lists. I need to paint a passenger door and I tried all 5 and none matched the paint Roadtrek had used when the painted everything behind the fenders except the rear doors. One matched darkness perfect looking at 90* and horrible at low angles. Another looked good at low angles and bad at 90*. This, I think, is caused by the "flop" of the metallic affecting reflectivity. One of the paints variants had anitflop in it and the other didn't, but neither was correct for the paint I had on the van.


Good body shops normally mix there own and do a paint match before starting and modify it to match, but it takes time so many don't do it.

booster what you are observing is the same paint on metal appears differnt on fiberglass.
my car has plastic bumpers & front fender fiberglass hood, doors an hatch then metal 1/4 panels
I never looked that close at it then I found out about paint an sunlight.
you my friend must have a close eye to notice.

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

booster what you are observing is the same paint on metal appears differnt on fiberglass.
my car has plastic bumpers & front fender fiberglass hood, doors an hatch then metal 1/4 panels
I never looked that close at it then I found out about paint an sunlight.
you my friend must have a close eye to notice.

Absolutely has to be in sunlight or paint booth quality brightness and color lighting.

I am pretty picky on things like this, but on the sand color I think anybody could see it.

I painted a Kia bright silver on my 96 Roadmaster wagon maybe 3 years ago and that paint is so reflective that it looks nearly as white as the white paint next to it in the sun and it looks almost grey in the shade (it is side paint where the woodgrain used to be). It was very hard to paint as when putting on basecoat it had to be perfect with uniform wetting and gun distance. Even a tiny bit of unnoticeable pulsing of the gun gave me tiger stripes.


You may have been looking at a texture thing or a wet out issue. Normally, you would paint a uniform coat of primer on first and often sand that primer a bit to improve the texture. The Roadmaster has a fiberglass hood and plastic bumper covers and with epoxy primer on them they all painted exactly the same for the topcoats.

[Kobieta]

Where have I been? As I've never heard of this! Can someone direct me to a link? I would love to clean up my 92D190P. I join the choir of "crappy paint!" Thanks for any help!!

[ChicagoTom]

Mine was professionally done. My Chevy was an upgraded paint from PleasureWay. Still looks good, except the fiberglass top section was fading etc. I had it done for about $1500 (I think) and I do like it, but a bit of a pain after washing at the self serve. I have to then wipe it to removes streaks and water spots.