MB Sprinter, battery drained, can't even turn ignition

[markopolo]

Some general suggestions:
Try an alternate key in case it's at all chip related.
Make sure the transmission is in Park.

Also, check the fuse that Davydd posted about (if you haven't already) - https://www.classbforum.com/forums/f...tml#post109570

[avanti]

If the above suggestions don't help, it is time to get down there with a volt meter to determine definitively whether the starter is getting power. This is a trivial and decisive test.

Of course you can have two simultaneous failures. Not where I would put my money, though.

[Teja]

Thanks George.
All the standard warning lights come on (PARKING, BRAKE, Lane Assist, etc.) and quickly disappear except the icon that looks like an engine - that remains on.
You say you cleared your codes, how to do that? (just in case it is necessary pre-starting.)
Under the dash near the fusebox, there is a cable ending in a pushable button (see photo.) Don't know what that is, but the red indicator light at the tip is flashing. Pushing the center button makes it stop, trying restart makes it flash again.

[IMG]file:///Users/Rhythm/Desktop/Flashing%20button%20under%20dash.JPG[/IMG]

[GeorgeRa]

I use ScanGauge II, dealer or a Sprinter tech can do it. ScanGauge connects to a little connector under a little cover under the dashboard. Strongly recommend to get one, easy to learn and use. Knowing codes well help your conversation with a dealer if needed, it is practically a must to have tool.

[Teja]

Thanks again.
I'll get a scangaugeII, although it seems to be mostly for MPG and other consumptive information, not so much for professional computer code reading. But if that is necessary to clear my codes, might be worth it.
Any ideas about that flashing red button I indicated?

[DUTCH in Atlanta]

Originally Posted by GeorgeRa

I use ScanGauge II, dealer or a Sprinter tech can do it. ScanGauge connects to a little connector under a little cover under the dashboard. Strongly recommend to get one, easy to learn and use. Knowing codes well help your conversation with a dealer if needed, it is practically a must to have tool.

Just a FWIW, that "little connector" is officially known as the OBDII connector. That's also where an MB dealer's service tech will connect their factory STAR Diagnosis computer to check things out.

[Hatteras Jim]

This may sound crazy; but, lightly tap your starter with a hammer a few times and then try to start it. I'm perplexed as you are why your sprinter refuses to start. At 30k/4yrs, you should not be having these problems. You never got a display that read "10 starts left" did you?

[GeorgeRa]

A voltmeter will tell you if you have power at the starter. OBDII reader such as a Scan Gauge
will tell you if ECM allows starting.

[Teja]

To Jim: Tap, tap, tap...yep, tried that. Tapped from underneath while friend turned key, no starting.

To George: Well, I'm obviously not a car-guy. Don't have a voltmeter, wouldn't know where to connect it for finding power at starter, don't have ScanGauge (although I could buy one and have it Friday for about $150) and don't know what ECM stands for...definitely not an engine geek.
Like Jim said above, "I'm perplexed as you are why your sprinter refuses to start. At 30k/4yrs, you should not be having these problems." I agree, and was not planning on having these complications for at least another 30K. So I guess it's either learn a bit of grease-monkeying or pay the big $$$ to the towers & mechanics

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by Teja

Installed brand new battery, still won't start.
Everything connected properly, all lights light up, and key turns freely in ignition slot. But there is no cranking or starter click at all when turning key.
AAA told me it was not the starter, that they heard some starter cranking attempt (I couldn't hear anything.) Insisted it was a bad battery (voltage check confirmed,) so I bought the new one.
Is it possible both the battery and the starter were simultaneously bad. (2016 Sprinter with only 30K?) If the starter's OK, what else could it be. Is there some reprogramming of the computer needed after new battery installation to send power to the starter?

Did you check that fuse where I posted a photo?

[Bud]

Originally Posted by Teja

To Jim: Tap, tap, tap...yep, tried that. Tapped from underneath while friend turned key, no starting.

To George: Well, I'm obviously not a car-guy. Don't have a voltmeter, wouldn't know where to connect it for finding power at starter, don't have ScanGauge (although I could buy one and have it Friday for about $150) and don't know what ECM stands for...definitely not an engine geek.
Like Jim said above, "I'm perplexed as you are why your sprinter refuses to start. At 30k/4yrs, you should not be having these problems." I agree, and was not planning on having these complications for at least another 30K. So I guess it's either learn a bit of grease-monkeying or pay the big $$$ to the towers & mechanics

If I recall correctly, the goal was to turn off a code.

Your OBDII port is for 'On Board Diagnostics' generation 2, or something like that. The ScanGauge is but one of many ranging in price from free to many thousands of $'s. By free, your smart phone is like a Scangauge reading, processing. You'll need a bluetooth thing to plug into the port, simple and less than $20.

If you choose to not be a car guy, I'm not much of one, one that will turn off stuff or whatever you want to do with your Sprinter, many choices.

[Teja]

Thanks Davvyd, yes. You're pointing to slot #23 (Starter Motor.) On mine, there was a good, unbroken fuse in there, but it was only 10amp, I switched it with a goo 25amp. Still no start.

[DUTCH in Atlanta]

Is the power disconnect switch next to the accelerator pedal connected?

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Teja

it was only 10amp, I switched it with a goo 25amp. Still no start.

Don't do that!!
Sprinter fuse positions change from year to year and even from van to van, depending on options. Your glove box should contain a little booklet called the "Fuse Supplement" or some such. It documents the fuse locations for your specific vehicle. If you are not SURE that a circuit requires a larger fuse, never put one in. The results could be unfortunate.

[Teja]

Originally Posted by Bud

If I recall correctly, the goal was to turn off a code.

By free, your smart phone is like a Scangauge reading, processing. You'll need a bluetooth thing to plug into the port, simple and less than $20.

Thanks Bud, I have a recent iPhone X. Not sure how I get scanguage-type readings & processing on it. Are you referring to a scanguage-type app made for iPhone? Typing Scangauge into an AppStore search turns up nada. Can you be more specific about how to use your smart phone to do this for free, and where to find this 'bluetooth thing' that goes into the 'port?

Originally Posted by Bud

If you choose to not be a car guy, I'm not much of one, one that will turn off stuff or whatever you want to do with your Sprinter, many choices.

Not quite sure what you mean here, Bud? What does "I'm not much of one, one that will turn off stuff.." mean? I'm happy to 'turn off stuff' if it preserves my battery over idle months. I only learned about the little battery disconnect switch near the accelerator on this forum, and never had these problems before.

[Teja]

Originally Posted by DUTCH in Atlanta

Is the power disconnect switch next to the accelerator pedal connected?

Yes. It has never been disconnected (which of course contributed to my battery drain, but I didn't even know it existed till a post above.) It stayed connected while I replaced my old battery with the new brand new one.

As mentioned above, the only dashboard alert that stays on with the key in the "On" position, is the engine light. Also, I noted there is a little black-button dongle hanging from a cable near the fuse box, with a flashing red-tip. It flashes continuously if I attempt a start-up. I can reach under the dash and push the button on it, and it stops, but starts up again with each attempted start-up. I have no idea what that is, and so far I don't think anyone has responded about that.

[Davydd]

My fuse was a 20a and should have been a 25a according to MB. It was a blown fuse that I replaced. If the fuse was not blown then it should have worked. As Avanti said, they could have changed the location from what I had. Look for a blown fuse.

[Teja]

So far, no blown fuses in the Starter or Engine category, don't think I really need to check for a blown fuse in the "horn" "brakes" or "lighting" sections.

[avanti]

Just as an aside, note that that style of fuse has two little slots on the top where you can access both sides of the fuse without removing it. The purpose of these slots is to permit one to quickly test the fuses in place. You can buy a tester for this purpose at an auto parts store, or you can just poke them with the probes of a multimeter.

Also note that once in awhile, a fuse looks OK but isn't. When in doubt, they should be tested electrically.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by Teja

Thanks Bud, I have a recent iPhone X. Not sure how I get scanguage-type readings & processing on it. Are you referring to a scanguage-type app made for iPhone? Typing Scangauge into an AppStore search turns up nada. Can you be more specific about how to use your smart phone to do this for free, and where to find this 'bluetooth thing' that goes into the 'port?



Not quite sure what you mean here, Bud? What does "I'm not much of one, one that will turn off stuff.." mean? I'm happy to 'turn off stuff' if it preserves my battery over idle months. I only learned about the little battery disconnect switch near the accelerator on this forum, and never had these problems before.

This has been an idea to spend less, yet accomplish what is needed, whatever that is. e.g. turn off some code.................

Simply google or go to Amazon with something like bluetooth obd2. Lots of options. Apple app store for an iphone, table.... Same with Android. Free to whatever is needed. Torque Pro is example with plenty of reviews, etc.