Macerator broken

[bigoldbob]

My macerator broken. Replace with what? Not fan of one in unit now, very little use, should not be broken. What is recommended replacement. Thanks for help. 09 Roadtrek Versatile

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by bigoldbob

My macerator broken. Replace with what? Not fan of one in unit now, very little use, should not be broken. What is recommended replacement. Thanks for help. 09 Roadtrek Versatile

What has failed? Does the pump run at all? Is the impeller jammed or broken?

Our 2017 210 Roadtrek 210 uses a Shurflo 3200-001 Fishbox pump.

[bigoldbob]

The motor does not run. The impeller, if I try manually, just freely turns. Nothing happens. Tanks are empty right now. Don’t want to put anything in until old pump is replaced.

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by bigoldbob

The motor does not run. The impeller, if I try manually, just freely turns. Nothing happens. Tanks are empty right now. Don’t want to put anything in until old pump is replaced.

Is there a fuse for this pump on your 12 Volt DC distribution panel?

[bigoldbob]

Yes, I believe so. Hmmm, did not check that. Will tomorrow. Just thought since impeller was floppy it must be needing replacing. But will check fuse. Thx

[MrMyagi]

Just as a side comment, I removed the macerator system on my 2007 190P. It wasn't a great system from the start. I converted mine very easily to the standard gravity dump. All it took was I think around $20 - $30 and a couple of simple items bought at Home Depot. The conversion was easy with the hardest part being the removal of the macerator pump skid plate that RT never intended to be removed. Gravity works very reliably. I do need to note that our coach is a 4x4 so it sits higher and is more accessible.

Something else to consider is NOT putting toilet paper down the toilet after use. Maybe there is another discussion elsewhere about this. If you follow this advice, the waste system dumping becomes very less likely to have problems.

As I started out, it's not a solution to your current problem but maybe a solution for future ones.

[avanti]

Well, I don't want to become known as the big defender of macerators, but just to balance things:

I have had two vans with macerators. On our old Airstream, I added it myself before the toilet was ever used--dual dump. On our GWV Legend, I reworked the plumbing to support dual dump. Between the two, it has been 14 years. I have NEVER had a failure. I would NEVER own a rig without a macerator.

Yes, I understand that gravity always works. But that isn't the point at all. It is about sanitation, pleasantness, and ease of use. A proper macerator setup is completely sealed. No smell, no storage of slinkies, no mess. We do not hesitate to use paper (although we DO try to stick with septic-tank-safe paper). Yes, gravity dumping can do the job, but to me, that is like saying that I can shower with a bucket of water rather than having a wet bath. The statement is true, but I am just not interested.

[bigoldbob]

I had someone send me pics of gravity system he replaced macerator with. Looks very easy. But cannot do the work myself and know no one who can. So my only choice is to take to Rv repair shop for repairs. I never put toilet paper down into tank. This macerator has been used rarely and not abused. As I understand it Roadtrek installed them upside down so liquid gets into motor. Typical Roadtrek. So, just wanted to know what would be a better replacement rather than original equipment? I still have not checked fuse. Really think impeller is broken.

[MrMyagi]

When I bought my second RT (current one) I was totally onboard with the macerator concept. It sounded good on paper. However, it wasn't as good as I thought it would be. The white stuff hose that RT used was an atrocity. It would break or get holes when putting it in the storage compartment especially when cold. Alot of people replaced theirs with a quality hose. The factory hose never fully emptied because of the deep ridges. There were some other issues that were a result of poor design. Concerning my particular RT, emptying with the macerator took longer than doing it the conventional way. Other coaches may be different. The day the macerator decided to quit was not a happy day. You are basically screwed and there is no quick or inexpensive fix. The only way you can deal with the immediate situation is to unscrew the clean out cap on the right side of the coach. Position the coach as best that you can over/near a sewer hole, pull the tank lever, stand back and watch the show happen. Then pull out your wallet and get ready to write a big check to remove and replace the defective macerator.

I am trying to keep my discussion about the RT macerator system and what my experience is with that particular system. Concerning your possible conversion to gravity, think about how low you will have to stoop to connect it, ground clearance, ease of use, etc. For me and my situation, the conversion to gravity was the best thing I could do to rid myself of the RT macerator problems. As I said before, my RT sits higher and so the ergonomics of the conversion system is just fine. I am away from my RT for a couple weeks. Otherwise I would take a picture of it and post it here. I think a mobile RV mechanic could easily do the conversion. Your coach would have to be jacked up for access underneath. Mine I can crawl under as is without jacking.

[Knit]

Getting 10 years out of a macerator pump even with low use sounds like a pretty good lifetime considering it’s job. I had to rebuild mine at 4 years.

[booster]

There are quite few discussions on the forum that you could check back on by searching, with lots of good suggestions for improving macerater life and the system.



We also have a home built dual dumping setup on our 07 Roadtrek and have not had a macerater failure in 10+ years.


There are some things that I think help a lot that can be done to the pump and use patterns.


The Roadtrek pump, at least in the Chevies is mounted upside down, which can cause a two different issues. The first is that like essentially all motor/pump setups like this there is an intermediate housing between the pump and motor to isolate them from each other. This chamber does nothing but keep any leakage out of the motor that might come out the motor shaft seal to the pump. There is always a drain hole at the bottom of this chamber to let that water out so it can't get deep enough to get into the motor. On the Roadtreks, the drain hole is on the top of the pump so the water can't drain out so even a very minor pump seal leak can ruin the motor. The hole on the top can also allow road splash and especially deep water if driven through to enter the chamber fill it. The cure is to drill a second hole like the original, but on the bottom and plug the top hole with caulking.


The second issue with it being upside down is on the inlet to the pump where there is a plate across the inlet that isn't the full diameter. It's purpose is to direct the flow into the blades from one edge which would normally be the bottom of the pipe. When upside down, the pump still works OK but sludge can be left in the bottom of inlet pipe just before the macerator and if it breaks loose it can plug up things. It is also more water that you have to dilute when you winterize. There is no bandaid for this part.


An 180* indexed pump is available from the manufacturer which solves all of it, but requires you to reroute the exit hose from the pump to the side pod.


Another issue with the Roadtrek install is that they removed the motor end seal on the non pump end to put in their hand crank to free stuck pumps. It is very easy for water to get in the motor through this opening, around the crank rod, and destroy the motor. The cranks rarely help much, so it may be a good idea to remove the crank rod and seal the end of the motor.


IMO, the one thing that you can do that is really easy in use is to slightly change your dumping procedure, especially when the van is going to be parked a while without use. Do your normal dump and flush with some bucketed water same as always. At this point you would have the tank valves closed and pump off and would be putting in a bucket of water with additive into the black tank. The change would be mix a bit more water, maybe 1/2 gallon more, and pour that into the black tank as normal. The change is then to go back out and pull the black tank dump valve to fill the pipe from the tank to pump and put clean water in the pump. You will hear the water gurgle down into the area when you pull the handle. What this change does is keep the pump impeller wet so it doesn't stick to the housing and tear at startup and also gives the pump a running start moving only clear water until the "stuff" gets there. It is very possible you will even be able to hear that the pump sounds different when starting when you do this. The pumps almost completely empty the pipe from the tank to the pump entrance, so all of this does make common sense to do, but it is really never mentioned anywhere.

[avanti]

When I winterize, I simply pour full-strength antifreeze down the toilet with the gate valve open and run the macerator until I see pink at the hose. I leave the macerator, pipes, and hoses partly filled with antifreeze all winter.

Maybe overkill, but I save enough antifreeze by not putting it in my fresh system that I don't mind.

[gregmchugh]

I think some people think the macerator is an expensive item, I bought a spare for $120 on Amazon and carried it in case I needed it, never did but if I needed it I had it. If it was simply a broken impeller I would have put the new one in and fixed the impeller on the old one and carried it as the spare.

[604eholston@charter.net]

There is a macerator system that does NOT use electricity. It is called "SewerSolution" I think and is available at Camping World or most RV suppliers. The macerator is powered by a fresh water hose instead of a 12 v motor.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by 604eholston@charter.net

There is a macerator system that does NOT use electricity. It is called "SewerSolution" I think and is available at Camping World or most RV suppliers. The macerator is powered by a fresh water hose instead of a 12 v motor.

The sewer solution works fine as advertised. An RV friend had one and demonstrated it for me. However, you do need a water source with pressure where you can connect a hose to it. There usually is water available at campground dump stations but many are designed so you cannot connect a hose. They are there to flush the area and the dump hoses.

Maybe you can at home or at a full hookup campsite with sewer and water. Of course it hooks up to a standard 3" gravity waste dump so I wonder why you would have it?

[Thevon]

I changed the macerator on my 2006 Chevy 190P last year. If you can get the RT up high enough to comfortably get under it, it’s a pretty easy job. I flushed my black tank several times and it was still a nasty job, so wear long sleeve shirt, long gloves and eye goggles.
I used a Shurflo 3200-001.

[chris_g19]

Yeah, these macerators don't like to be in storage and not used. I'm a fultimer and have had no issues. Love my macerator. Just use it once a month and do a fresh water flush through it every once and a while and it should be maintenance free.

[Reed]

Agree with Mr. Myagi.

Put TP in a plastic bag inside trash can. Every RV Park in Mexico we have been in have explicitly stated that no TP should go into Black Water tank. They use septic tanks.

Macerator is one more thing to go wrong on the beach in Yucatan. We always carry one or two extra 12V water pumps. Have given away two in Yucatan since folks did not have a spare. Use one to fill Roadtrek water tank from 20 l garrafones.

Extra sewer hose is important as well. Folks damage them and do not have spare. Again, we have given away a few in Yucatan. We were in a hardware store in Patzcuaro, Michoacán and some US woman was desperate for sewer hose.. we had only one spare and we had another six weeks in Mexico. We were not that generous

[RV Vernon]

As always, excellent answer, Booster.
Thanks, RV

[cruising7388]

Originally Posted by gregmchugh

I think some people think the macerator is an expensive item, I bought a spare for $120 on Amazon and carried it in case I needed it, never did but if I needed it I had it. If it was simply a broken impeller I would have put the new one in and fixed the impeller on the old one and carried it as the spare.

If you are dealing with a failed Roadtrek macerator, how do you replace it without wearing the backed up sewage?