Macerator broken

[gregmchugh]

The macerator is not over $200 unless you get it at an RV dealer...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by avanti

Yeah, we know all about your "professionals".

$130/hour. 20 minute job. = $44.

BTW: A Shurflo macerator can be had for less than $140 on Amazon. Less if you shop around. Of course, from a "professional"....

Why is it necessary to criticize someone who pays to have a job done? My local shop wanted $700+ to replace the macerator (quoted $550 for most expensive Thetford Sanicon Turbo) plus labor at $130/hr. If I did not want to do the job myself, I would have grumbled, but paid their asking price. And I would have been satisfied if they had done the job right

Now, as Paul Harvey used to say, the rest of the story:
In my case, they mistook me for a easy mark and also told be all dump piping was cracked and also needed to be replaced for an additional $350. So they tried to charge me over $1100 in total. Other plumbing was fine, no cracks or leaks. They were referring to the excess blue sealer that oosed out the ABS connections when installed at the factory. This told me they were crooks and lairs.

So I bought an exact replacement macerator on Ebay and did the repair in about an hour for $200. Turns out they did me a favor as they removed any fear I had of working on my rv. It's never been to a dealer again (and certainly never to that dealer ever).

[Kyronecks]

Originally Posted by markopolo

Possibly 99% of RV's are gravity dump setups.



Dam'! I'm getting me a leather jacket! On the back: 1% MACERATORS

Back in 2005 & prior some Roadtrek owners added macerators and I added one to my 190P pretty much copying what had been done by others.


Why did they add them? What were the benefits? (if the answer is not too yucky)


I did not want a failed macerator to be a trip altering event so I made sure to only need a screwdriver (and gloves) to be able to remove the macerator at a dump station outside of the footprint of the van.


I'm still unclear about how you would get under your RT. In the same dilemma, I'd just go behind a thick bush.


An improvement to the remove it at a dump station idea is making it dual (macerator or gravity) dump capable.

I haven't yet found the schematic for the mod. Is there just a valved shunt around the pump, and stuff continues - unpumped and not sliced and diced - through the wrinkled little green hose solely by the force of gravity? Will it do that on a 'B'? Or is there a more direct, straight down, plummet? I can see it on an 'A'; their thrones are on high.

I do like the concept and redundancy, but doubt I could afford a non-DIY application. I'm on a pension now, and just paying for gas is a burden.
But my thanks are sincere. What is it about the 'B' lifestyle that turns owners into Friends to Man? Is it just being nearer to the Road and to the Earth?

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by Kyronecks

I haven't yet found the schematic for the mod. Is there just a valved shunt around the pump, and stuff continues - unpumped and not sliced and diced - through the wrinkled little green hose solely by the force of gravity? Will it do that on a 'B'? Or is there a more direct, straight down, plummet? I can see it on an 'A'; their thrones are on high.

I do like the concept and redundancy, but doubt I could afford a non-DIY application. I'm on a pension now, and just paying for gas is a burden.
But my thanks are sincere. What is it about the 'B' lifestyle that turns owners into Friends to Man? Is it just being nearer to the Road and to the Earth?

Depends on your model. How it is attached and how easy it is to access.

On my Airstream Avenue (Chevy Express chassis), the macerator attaches with the standard bayonet lugs similar to a standard 3" dump hose. It resides in a tight space, but is right at the outer edge and therefore pretty accessible.

If my macerator fails, I could just unbolt the "U" clamp that supports it, disconnect the power wires, and twist it off so I could then use a standard gravity dump hose. But would I? No. I love the macerator so much that I carry a spare.

PS: If loving it is wrong, I don't want to be right. (apologies to Luther Ingram)

[Kyronecks]

I love the macerator so much that I carry a spare.

PS: If loving it is wrong, I don't want to be right. (apologies to Luther Ingram)



You're my kind of dude, Rowie! Wanna join my motorcycle gang?

[avanti]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

Why is it necessary to criticize someone who pays to have a job done?

Where did I do that? I was responding for being called "ridiculous" for defending another member's suggestion that $1000 was out of line. I provided data.

[avanti]

Originally Posted by Kyronecks

I haven't yet found the schematic for the mod. Is there just a valved shunt around the pump, and stuff continues - unpumped and not sliced and diced - through the wrinkled little green hose solely by the force of gravity? Will it do that on a 'B'? Or is there a more direct, straight down, plummet? I can see it on an 'A'; their thrones are on high.

A dual-dump setup requires a stinky-slinky when used in gravity mode.

Here is how I did it:

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f8...html#post81514

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5...html#post27871

[rowiebowie]

Edit: Removed duplicate post.

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

Why is it necessary to criticize someone who pays to have a job done? My local shop wanted $700+ to replace the macerator (quoted $550 for most expensive Thetford Sanicon Turbo) plus labor at $130/hr. If I did not want to do the job myself, I would have grumbled, but paid their asking price. And I would have been satisfied if they had done the job right

Now, as Paul Harvey used to say, the rest of the story:
In my case, they mistook me for a easy mark and also told be all dump piping was cracked and also needed to be replaced for an additional $350. So they tried to charge me over $1100 in total. Other plumbing was fine, no cracks or leaks. They were referring to the excess blue sealer that oosed out the ABS connections when installed at the factory. This told me they were crooks and lairs.

So I bought an exact replacement macerator on Ebay and did the repair in about an hour for $200. Turns out they did me a favor as they removed any fear I had of working on my rv. It's never been to a dealer again (and certainly never to that dealer ever).

Avanti, this person . Rowie...brings up a good point.....

Why is it necessary to criticize someone who pays to have a job done?

This is NOT GOOD.... and certainly is getting repetitive about criticism about the competency of my RV shop... which is totally unfounded, and my decision to have this fixed professionally.......

Here's my macerator on Amazon....$189.... plus tax it will be $200.... geez I think it takes all kinds.....

But, in this "tribal world" of picking sides...it doesn't surprise me.

Shurflo 3200-011 Macerator Pump 24vdc 13gpm Self-Priming Dual Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C1M7KGW..._0rXsDbWVWK5K2

I don't see how my decision to actually keep people working and paying for a turnkey solution has any bearing on you .....in fact, having a single source of responsibility is a very good thing....

A few years ago... I had a neighbor who said... I used to work at an RV repair shop... I can fix this for you....

He completely didn't know... and created more problems, using non standard parts and I had to take my RV to the shop.... for a professional job.....

I enjoy and use my RV...it's not a project vehicle and I wouldn't want to have it if it were.....

I don't give a damn what you think about what I'm doing... I can not see how you can be neutral in situations where you throw offensive insinuating remarks about " we know about your professionals"..... followed by a "smiley face" emoticon...

I know what I'm doing ... getting the RV fixed....by someone I can trust...

Let me say one more thing.. I've used the same auto mechanic for the last 20 years.... and once I establish a trust with the person who is doing the work... I don't question their judgement..... it's a long term business arrangement.... I get the job done correctly and they are honest and do excellent work....

What's wrong with this?

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Quote without comment......


$130/hour. 20 minute job. = $44.

BTW: A Shurflo macerator can be had for less than $140 on Amazon. Less if you shop around. Of course, from a "professional"....

Originally Posted by avanti View Post
Yeah, we know all about your "professionals".

[markopolo]

Originally Posted by Roadtrek Adventuous RS1

..........................

Here's my macerator on Amazon....$189.... plus tax it will be $200.... geez I think it takes all kinds.....

But, in this "tribal world" of picking sides...it doesn't surprise me.

Shurflo 3200-011 Macerator Pump 24vdc 13gpm Self-Priming Dual Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C1M7KGW..._0rXsDbWVWK5K2

..........................

I doubt that you'd want the 24V pump that you linked to.

Here's a 12V model: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-3200-.../dp/B000FQ78P4

[GeorgeRa]

Originally Posted by Roadtrek Adventuous RS1

...............................................You might as well just tell this person to do it yourself..... with a response like that..... ridiculous.

Get yourself an expensive mirror to see where ridiculous applies, just make sure it is a $1000 mirror.

This forum is heading into some absurd, no value added argumentative posts.

[booster]

You know RSA, if you didn't keep repeating the same, very questionable to outright incorrect, things and calling those that question them names, things might go better for you. Bragging about how much you paid someone for a job that many here have done and know how long it should take doesn't prove anything just because they are "professional".

[Roadtrek Adventuous RS1]

Originally Posted by markopolo

I doubt that you'd want the 24V pump that you linked to.

Here's a 12V model: https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-3200-.../dp/B000FQ78P4

Correct, I had the wrong one listed.

[Davydd]

Originally Posted by avanti

You can solve the "hardest part" with a quick trip to the "cull" department of your local lumber provider:

Attachment 7926

Attachment 7927

Honestly, if you can find somebody to replace it for $100, then go for it. If it is much more, do it yourself.

I like the solid wood lifts. In fact I have to wood for them but haven't had a need yet to build them. On the subject of the macerator, we can get to it without the lifts and replace it if necessary. I know because I had Advanced RV replace one under warranty and they did it in the parking lot without lifts.

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by Kyronecks

You're my kind of dude, Rowie! Wanna join my motorcycle gang?

I'll join if markopolo will. Of course he'll probably want to name the gang the 1%'ers. The ultimate inside joke.

[markopolo]

The 1%-ers thing is funny!

There's something about these macerator topics that inspires humor.

On a previous dual dump topic I thought I had a fantastic idea about labeling and using a red colored handle etc..... Turned out that Booster had already done it that way .... and had posted the photos which I absolutely had to have seen! Avanti then coined the phrase "Dual Dump Certified" because of my very strict dual dump specifications. That prompted Booster to put me in charge of "Dual dump/handle inspection, testing and certification".

So if you see a short guy with silver hair wearing a leather jacket with a 1% patch and designed by Kyronecks logo carrying a clip board and certification labels wandering around the campground on a moped looking under RV's it'll probably be me! Or not!

[Bud]

Originally Posted by Roadtrek Adventuous RS1

I have no idea where you live, but, labor rate is $130 per hour and my shop is very quick, honest and professional. They don't do things half way....

And the Shurflo part is over $200.....

I also needed to get the tanks drained and the both gate valves replaced........

$100....yeah.... I don't know anyone who is going to do quality work for this price...... where in the world did you figure that??? You might as well just tell this person to do it yourself..... with a response like that..... ridiculous.

"honest and professional"

Like your onan professionals?

Bud

[jbucking]

I have searched the forums for macerator issues, but not found a thread that discusses my issue. I have a 2007 RT 210V and the macerator pump will run fine when I initially press the button, but after 10 seconds or so it stops. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes it will restart again. I am not blowing a fuse. Does the macerator have any sort of internal circuitry that might shut it off if got hot, and have to cool down before restarting ? Just a guess ( it shouldn't really be getting hot, but something is going on). It pumps fine when it runs. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

[booster]

Originally Posted by jbucking

I have searched the forums for macerator issues, but not found a thread that discusses my issue. I have a 2007 RT 210V and the macerator pump will run fine when I initially press the button, but after 10 seconds or so it stops. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes it will restart again. I am not blowing a fuse. Does the macerator have any sort of internal circuitry that might shut it off if got hot, and have to cool down before restarting ? Just a guess ( it shouldn't really be getting hot, but something is going on). It pumps fine when it runs. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

I am pretty sure that the motors have an internal thermal protection switch, so that could be going bad, or you are really getting that hot.


Does it pump normally during that 10 seconds of run time and sound right?


You could also have a wire connection that is getting hot and disconnecting, particularly on the ground side of the pump. The ground on our pump was originally just attached to the metal cover for the macerator area so poor contact to the vehicle frame, by Roadtrek.