Leveling your van - what do you use?

[Cliffhanger]

I'm new and in the acquisition stage. I've been aware that leveling was of some concern. But reading these posts generates some worry as I don't anticipate spending much time in civilized campgrounds. More likely I'll be parking on the side of some steep hillside where location will be determined more by the view or access to a stream. I am accustomed to backpacking where, on occasion, I had to tie myself in to prevent sliding out the tent door. My RV use is likely to parallel this type of terrain. Should I just not use a refrigerator? Come to think of it, in years past I've had small RV's with frigs and never gave leveling a single thought. Never had a problem.

[BillsPaseo]

Absorption fridges require being pretty close to level, but if you have a compressor fridge like the NovaKool, it isn't near as important. We have the NovaKool in our Paseo, and we only worry about getting the rig level enough for our own comfort (i.e. not having the blood rush to our heads when lying in bed).

[pasusan]

Originally Posted by booster

We carry a couple of sets, 20 minus damaged ones that have been pitched, of the plastic blocks. We don't need them a lot of the time, but often enough in the types of places we like to go. Normally use under 10 of them but sometimes need more.



Blocks are light and can be stored in several areas to use otherwise wasted space without tying up prime areas with large ramp type things.

These are what we use - stored in their original zippered containers. I've got an app that tells me how many inches needed under each wheel. If they're really mucky when we leave I throw the muddy ones in a plastic bag to be cleaned and stored correctly later.

Light and easy - they're called Lynx Levelers.

[Bud]

Originally Posted by pasusan

These are what we use - stored in their original zippered containers. I've got an app that tells me how many inches needed under each wheel. If they're really mucky when we leave I throw the muddy ones in a plastic bag to be cleaned and stored correctly later.

Light and easy - they're called Lynx Levelers.

I use about the same, but when Orange is not quite right Camco makes about the same in the same color as your tires.

Bud

[Doneworking]

Over the years I have tried 'em all. I built a complete set of 2x8 ramps with angled ends that were sufficient to raise four tires up to six inches. I was planning on using these in a B+ with dual tires. They were too heavy and took up too much space. So, I went back to the Lynx levelers. Overall, they are just the most practical for our use. It is not uncommon for us to camp in places that require five inches on one tire, three on one, etc. So, we carry three sets and yes they take up a lot of room. If we are on a trip where we know that many are not necessary, we simply leave some at home.

By the way, we use a little of this non slip shelf liner under the levelers if we have slippage problems:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-...89210895&psc=1

I think most of us use this stuff in our cabinets and it is cheap and disposable if torn up.

By the way, I occasionaly use a few of those 2x8 levelers I built to safely lift the Roadtrek if I want to work on something underneath it. Two of them under a wheel is an extra 3 inches and that it a significant clearance percentage increase on a 210P.

[InterBlog]

IMO, there are no options that are not a complete P.I.T.A. Either you fuss with lego blocks, or you pay thousands for a mechanized leveling system.

Regardless of block brand chosen, they get muddy and messy and they take up way too much space. I built an under-chassis storage rack for most of ours, capturing some space to the curb side of the exhaust line. Simple welding job (details here; see first pic down below).

Also IMO, although I detest blocks, I cannot see traveling without them. I've used them to assist with break-over angle conflicts as well as with static leveling.

In other words, leveling blocks are something that you don't need until that moment arrives when you simply can't travel without them. The second pic down is a crappy National Forest road which violated our break-over angle, as you can see from how the running board is almost touching the ground at photo right. The blocks got us over that hump. Without them, we would not have been able to enter that particular off-grid campground.

[tinchariot]

I have a relic from the 70's class C with 4 wheels Dodge titan B300. I welded 4 - 1 X 1 square tubing on the front frame and rear bumper. Pop the jacks in the hole, put a 6 X 6 x 2 peace of wood on the ground and turn each jack as needed. works great and I can do it alone with the help of my cheap bubble gauges. And my rig feels stable going in & out!!

[Winston]

Our DIY ProMaster is 'higher in the back' . . . so . . . if the campsite is uphill, we pull in straight, if downhill, we back in. Avoiding leveling and 'reconfiguring' the camper each night were two of our goals. So far we've never rolled-out-of-bed due to our less-than-precise (non-existent) leveling system.