Left red key on over 12 hours engine & generator offwoke to the 60 second chirp alert

[KurtFranz]

All I can say is what I described worked in my case and was based on the install instructions for my isolator that originally came with the van,as I was fortunate and received all of the original factory provided materials with my van.

That being said, if and when mine bites the dust, I will be going the separator route and having my chassis battery charged while plugged in to shore power

[THEBRAIN]

What battery isolater do I have? I believe it’s orginal. 05 pleasureway Lexor RD chevy 3500.
I can’t see any model # could it possiably be labled on side face lower engine? And needs to be removed from firewall to see name brand & model #? posts aren’t labled either.
Last week I accidently left the battery kill switch (red key) on for 12 hours, at 12th hour I heard the low voltage alert on the carbon monixde sensor.
Turned red key off around 2am. At 9am the start battery was at 8.5Vdc.
The isolator should have protected the start battery and only drained the house. something other than the carbon an propane sensor was on that I didn't now was on or the 2 sensors drained the start in this 12 hour period.

I’m thinking the start battery is connected to the house post of isolator (or isolator is fualty will test it later), BC the house battery is fine.
I assume I can attempt to start engine w/ start battery disconnected but haven’t.
had battery charged at autozone for a few hours and was told it’s 13.5 VDC no dead cells and 100% charged. Since last Friday battery has been been fine and is at 12.6VDC.making sure the red key isn’t on.
the isolators rightmost post is the house battery mearsured w/ multimeter at isolator 13.2VDC. I’ve confirmed this by disconnecting the negative wire at start battery,
after reconnecting start batt. mearsured 12.9VDC at 2ndrightmost post.
Please let me know model# of my isolator.
Save me the trouble of switching connections of house & start batterys an expecting a drain on house as it should be.
edit: I seriously doubt the alternator has a short or caused the drain bc it's been charging both batterys fine for a week. I've been cruising around 15 miles one way in morning 15 one way coming back so if alt. was fualty the battery alone wouldn't get me far.
additionalley what is the small 2 wire connection to left of isolator. the alternator sense or exciter wire connects here?

been searching what I think is my isolator.
I think the far left post should be 1 for start batt. far right should be 2 for house middle small post is A for alternator excite wire which is a small wire.

so my house batt. is connected correct my start batt. which shold be on far left is the 2nd inside of far right which according to the blury images a see of what I think could be my isolator is the correct spot for start.

I may physicalley remove the isolator and hope there's a couple lables.
thanks

[Kurt Franz]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

What battery isolater do I have? I believe it’s orginal. 05 pleasureway Lexor RD chevy 3500.
I can’t see any model # could it possiably be labled on side face lower engine? And needs to be removed from firewall to see name brand & model #? posts aren’t labled either.
Last week I accidently left the battery kill switch (red key) on for 12 hours, at 12th hour I heard the low voltage alert on the carbon monixde sensor.
Turned red key off around 2am. At 9am the start battery was at 8.5Vdc.
The isolator should have protected the start battery and only drained the house. something other than the carbon an propane sensor was on that I didn't now was on or the 2 sensors drained the start in this 12 hour period.

I’m thinking the start battery is connected to the house post of isolator (or isolator is fualty will test it later), BC the house battery is fine.
I assume I can attempt to start engine w/ start battery disconnected but haven’t.
had battery charged at autozone for a few hours and was told it’s 13.5 VDC no dead cells and 100% charged. Since last Friday battery has been been fine and is at 12.6VDC.making sure the red key isn’t on.
the isolators rightmost post is the house battery mearsured w/ multimeter at isolator 13.2VDC. I’ve confirmed this by disconnecting the negative wire at start battery,
after reconnecting start batt. mearsured 12.9VDC at 2ndrightmost post.
Please let me know model# of my isolator.
Save me the trouble of switching connections of house & start batterys an expecting a drain on house as it should be.
edit: I seriously doubt the alternator has a short or caused the drain bc it's been charging both batterys fine for a week. I've been cruising around 15 miles one way in morning 15 one way coming back so if alt. was fualty the battery alone wouldn't get me far.
additionalley what is the small 2 wire connection to left of isolator. the alternator sense or exciter wire connects here?

been searching what I think is my isolator.
I think the far left post should be 1 for start batt. far right should be 2 for house middle small post is A for alternator excite wire which is a small wire.

so my house batt. is connected correct my start batt. which shold be on far left is the 2nd inside of far right which according to the blury images a see of what I think could be my isolator is the correct spot for start.

I may physicalley remove the isolator and hope there's a couple lables.
thanks

Honestly, I do not know what else to do to help you out here. you may want to take it to a professional and have it all ironed out for you. The picture of the nice clean isolator is the same model as mine. Is that what you have, or is that just something you scraped from a website?

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by KurtFranz

All I can say is what I described worked in my case and was based on the install instructions for my isolator

Kurt if I had install instructions or just a tiny bit of documentation like a lable on the isolator I could be closer to a resolution.
I think I'm close to a resolution. and I still thank you for your shared advice.

basicelly my start batt. wired connection at isolator I believe is in wronge postion. will post when resolved proballey this Sunday. thanks Kurt

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

Kurt if I had install instructions or just a tiny bit of documentation like a lable on the isolator I could be closer to a resolution.
I think I'm close to a resolution. and I still thank you for your shared advice.

basicelly my start batt. wired connection at isolator I believe is in wronge postion. will post when resolved proballey this Sunday. thanks Kurt

This whole thing is just going in circles, it appears. There just doesn't appear to be enough information for anyone to be able to help out successfully.



My suggestions at this point.


* Remove the unit for the van completely.


* Check it carefully for serial/model numbers after cleaning it well with soap and water, not solvent that might remove writing on it.


* If you find any numbers Google them for information on the unit.


* If you can't find any numbers on it, do a Google "images" search and try to match it up looking at the pictures. Try as many search terms as you can come up with, like "rv isolator", "12v isolator", "Pleasureway isolator", and anything else you can come up with.


* If none of this pans out, smack it with a hammer and throw it in the trash so you can't be tempted to put it back in the van. It is old, is old tech, and possibly failed anyway.



* If the previous suggestion is done, buy a moderately priced "separator"/"automatic charge relay" to replace it. It will come with instructions for the simple two connections.



* If the alternator does not hold voltage properly with the separator in place you may need a mechanic to find the appropriate place to connect the "sense" wire or have the capability to find and read a wiring diagram for your particular brand/model/year of van.


Careful information collection, presentation, and interpretation are very important in being able to solve these kinds of problems without actually seeing them in person.

[booster]

Here is likely what you have
https://allbatterysalesandservice.co...output-1602-3a


Scroll down the page to see a PDF for the instructions so you can print them.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

This whole thing is just going in circles, it appears. There just doesn't appear to be enough information for anyone to be able to help out successfully.



My suggestions at this point.


* Remove the unit for the van completely.


* Check it carefully for serial/model numbers after cleaning it well with soap and water, not solvent that might remove writing on it.


* If you find any numbers Google them for information on the unit.


* If you can't find any numbers on it, do a Google "images" search and try to match it up looking at the pictures. Try as many search terms as you can come up with, like "rv isolator", "12v isolator", "Pleasureway isolator", and anything else you can come up with.


* If none of this pans out, smack it with a hammer and throw it in the trash so you can't be tempted to put it back in the van. It is old, is old tech, and possibly failed anyway.



* If the previous suggestion is done, buy a moderately priced "separator"/"automatic charge relay" to replace it. It will come with instructions for the simple two connections.



* If the alternator does not hold voltage properly with the separator in place you may need a mechanic to find the appropriate place to connect the "sense" wire or have the capability to find and read a wiring diagram for your particular brand/model/year of van.


Careful information collection, presentation, and interpretation are very important in being able to solve these kinds of problems without actually seeing them in person.

Booster my friend I think I've figured it out the start batt. is wired incorrectly. yes next chance I get I'll be removing isolater to confirm the posts (hoping there's a post lableon other side)
it's been pouring down rain. an I've extended my vacation a couple weeks so I'm still not home. thanks Booster I'll report back when resolved

[booster]

When Roadtrek used that isolator (most likely), they put an relay in the "E" connection circuit.


The orange wire ran the coil of the relay and normally open output switched battery power.


IIRC the orange wire is to run side of the ignition switch but may be from the PCM instead. The instructions for the isolator say to use the run side so all makes sense.


Roadtrek PDF wiring diagram for Chevy


https://roadtrek.com/download/1674&file_id=1672

[booster]

Here is the wiring of the OEM plug, which may still be there with an adapter harness plugged into it, or it may have been removed and wired directly.


This is where it started before the isolator was installed so you should be able to see what has changed. Look for any normal electrical tape to see what harness you might need to open up.


This is how you would wire the plug if you go to a separator, which I strongly recommend, and have to take the system back to stock which is a good thing IMO.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

Here is the wiring of the OEM plug, which may still be there with an adapter harness plugged into it, or it may have been removed and wired directly.


This is where it started before the isolator was installed so you should be able to see what has changed. Look for any normal electrical tape to see what harness you might need to open up.


This is how you would wire the plug if you go to a separator, which I strongly recommend, and have to take the system back to stock which is a good thing IMO.

yes Booster there is a 4 pin plug at the alt.there maybe only 2 wires on it. I think there is also a thick 0awg wire.plugged into alt. see attached image.
thanks Booster you the man. I have testing procedures and install images so this issue will be sorted out soon. I'm thinking it's just the start batt. needs to be moved to the correct position that being #1.I think it's on A alt.right now.needs to be on the leftmost post #1.

i was gonna remove the isolator today then got caught up in NCAA football plus we have extremely short days it gets dark in Destin,FL at 4:30pm plan to remove isolator Sunday. thanks again Booster

[THEBRAIN]

isolator test results either I have a bad isolator or the test intructions are incorrect about the 1st test where they expect current to flow from A to both 1 & 2 like should 1 be blocked from current to protect the start battery? or A to 1 &2 charges both batt. to be charged.

Mike you are correct as usalle I do have the 16023 isolator.

thanks Guys for surport

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

isolator test results either I have a bad isolator or the test intructions are incorrect about the 1st test where they expect current to flow from A to both 1 & 2 like should 1 be blocked from current to protect the start battery? or A to 1 &2 charges both batt. to be charged.

Mike you are correct as usalle I do have the 16023 isolator.

thanks Guys for surport

One thing to always remember on RVs is that if something is disconnected or bypassed there is almost always a reason, and being failed is normally the reason.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

One thing to always remember on RVs is that if something is disconnected or bypassed there is almost always a reason, and being failed is normally the reason.

so thats why post #1 wasn't connected (it failed )to start batt. doe's it sound like a bad isolator? thanks Booster.

[THEBRAIN]

I'm considering the manuely method.it's not a big deal to reset radios clock & stations.thanks

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

I'm considering the manuely method.it's not a big deal to reset radios clock & stations.thanks

I would not use that blade switch as it is wide open and with very high current available just not a good idea.


Get a proper RV/marine disconnect switch or put in a separator where you can also override the automatic off or even nicer override both off and on.


Blue Sea makes probably the most used and most reliable disconnects.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

I would not use that blade switch as it is wide open and with very high current available just not a good idea.


Get a proper RV/marine disconnect switch or put in a separator where you can also override the automatic off or even nicer override both off and on.


Blue Sea makes probably the most used and most reliable disconnects.

Apparently the isolator is ruined. Will be checking into either a replacement or another alternative maybe a relay.

I’ll have to weight the pro & cons of each device. Then decide whats real important. I do like the blue seas products I have a fuse block from them for the boat it’s good quality.

Booster is this 1st link the isolator you suggest?
Thanks for advice

Blue seas batt. Separator, I do like the remote switch for combining the 2 batterys


https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...001C7CJHC?th=1

Cheap version stinger.and on sale
https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP32...19062217&psc=1
I wonder if there's folks still using AB switchs use #1 batt or #2 batt or both.

I think I found out about the E post on the sure power isolator it's for newer mid 2K GM alternators w/ extrenal valtage regulators, thus sense wire.older GMs had excite wire.

[booster]

The link I posted was for the separator you have now, which I don't recommend.


If you decide to go with an automatic charge relay there are two that I like and have used from Blue Sea.


7610 is a 160 amp fully automatic charge relay so if you are charging from the alternator of from the coach charger it will connect the batteries. If no charging going on it will disconnect them. You can stop the connection when charging by using a switch to put 12v on "start isolation" connection, but you can't force them to connect when not charging.


The 7622 does the automatic like the 7610, is rated at 500 amps, and also have has a remote 3 position switch so you can manually set it to run full automatic, switch it to connected manually, and switch it unconnected manually.


If you just want manual control, I think you could still find the individual parts to do it at Blue Sea by getting a non automatic charge relay and a two position momentary switch from them to actuate it. This is what we have in our van.


The low cost relay you show would work, but it will use considerable power when connected. The Blue Sea better charge relays use almost no power except for a second while the physically switch, so a better option for most of us.

[SteveJ]

I've been using a 7610 for over a couple of years now, it works great.

[THEBRAIN]

Originally Posted by booster

The link I posted was for the separator you have now, which I don't recommend.


If you decide to go with an automatic charge relay there are two that I like and have used from Blue Sea.


7610 is a 160 amp fully automatic charge relay so if you are charging from the alternator of from the coach charger it will connect the batteries. If no charging going on it will disconnect them. You can stop the connection when charging by using a switch to put 12v on "start isolation" connection, but you can't force them to connect when not charging.


The 7622 does the automatic like the 7610, is rated at 500 amps, and also have has a remote 3 position switch so you can manually set it to run full automatic, switch it to connected manually, and switch it unconnected manually.

I do like the switchs on the 7622 however I think I'd like to keep it as simple as possiable

If you just want manual control, I think you could still find the individual parts to do it at Blue Sea by getting a non automatic charge relay and a two position momentary switch from them to actuate it. This is what we have in our van.
are you using the old fashioned AB switch use batt1 or use batt2 or both? where do you have it mounted I'm assuming inside the coach

The low cost relay you show would work, but it will use considerable power when connected. The Blue Sea better charge relays use almost no power except for a second while the physically switch, so a better option for most of us.

Booster are you saying this stinger wastes power? is that just at start up?
I see the blue sea isolator separator please excuse me for not knowing the exact terminogolgy. both require switched 12VDC, where are you Guys stealing this 12VDC. I know there's the main GM fuse block in engine bay, I'm assuming I'll have to crawl under van to splice into a aux. (extra circuit for add ons) tips on this would be a big help.

the stinger requires the GM igniton key turned on to work as a relay isolator to protect the start battery from draining while camping.is this why it uses more power? can a toggle on/off switch be used for this switched 12VDC instead of GM key?

doe's the other isolators also require the key on

the sure power stlye appears to be the simplest to install an use? maybe just get a better brand name isolator.

edit: I plan a 200watt solar simiarl to you'rs so I need to consider this source of charge when selecting the correct isolator, I've read the 7610 won't prevent the start batt. from overcharging.this review.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...cAqA_cQ9pwGCA8

haven't done much research on on upping the alternator.not sure if I need a higher amp alternator. I have read that some folks have 2 alts.which is proballey excessive for my needs.
thanks booster for advice

Originally Posted by SteveJ

I've been using a 7610 for over a couple of years now, it works great.

SteveJ are using this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...DKIKX0DER&th=1

how did you connect the switched 12VDC? thanks

[booster]

Originally Posted by THEBRAIN

Booster are you saying this stinger wastes power? is that just at start up?
I see the blue sea isolator separator please excuse me for not knowing the exact terminogolgy. both require switched 12VDC, where are you Guys stealing this 12VDC. I know there's the main GM fuse block in engine bay, I'm assuming I'll have to crawl under van to splice into a aux. (extra circuit for add ons) tips on this would be a big help.

the stinger requires the GM igniton key turned on to work as a relay isolator to protect the start battery from draining while camping.is this why it uses more power? can a toggle on/off switch be used for this switched 12VDC instead of GM key?

doe's the other isolators also require the key on

the sure power stlye appears to be the simplest to install an use? maybe just get a better brand name isolator.

haven't done much research on on upping the alternator.not sure if I need a higher amp alternator. I have read that some folks have 2 alts.which is proballey excessive for my needs.
thanks booster for advice

SteveJ are using this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...DKIKX0DER&th=1

how did you connect the switched 12VDC? thanks

Don't overthink it all, just read the install instructions for the different listed models I gave above. The are on the manufacturers website.



Isolators are full of diodes to separate the batteries. When charging from the alternator you lose appox .7v of charging voltage which is wasted power but even worse is the lower voltage doesn't charge you batteries as well.


Some isolators like you have need the ignition triggers, separators do not and none that I gave you are simple two cable connections to make them work as they don't need any other source of power except from the two batteries. If you add a remote switch there is wiring for that to run of course.


Separators like those listed don't lose voltage when connecting the batteries so charge better.



The 7610 that SteveJ has is one I also listed and have used. It is automatic and like most separators allow charging both ways so you can charge your starting battery while charging you coach on shore power. They are under $100 on Amazon so same cost as you isolator, but a much better choice in my opinion. The 7622 is a wonderful separator with the separate switch but more expensive. It is very versatile and wastes a bit less energy when in operation.


A plain power relay like you listed earlier has to have a switch added and uses a lot of power when connected.