Induction Cooktop

[MagicBox]

Hi

I have been putting off getting a grill for our 2012 Roadtrek and now under the gun to acquire one soon.
I am thinking about an induction cooktop now since I can’t find an appropriate propane unit (Magmas are sold out). Most grills seem to need conversion/regulator removal in order to work off the main propane tank.
Can I run an induction cooktop without shore power with our rigs 190 ah battery bank and 750 W inverter setup? The induction cooktops i’ve seen are usually 1800 W.

Thank you

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by MagicBox

Hi

I have been putting off getting a grill for our 2012 Roadtrek and now under the gun to acquire one soon.
I am thinking about an induction cooktop now since I can’t find an appropriate propane unit (Magmas are sold out). Most grills seem to need conversion/regulator removal in order to work off the main propane tank.
Can I run an induction cooktop without shore power with our rigs 190 ah battery bank and 750 W inverter setup? The induction cooktops i’ve seen are usually 1800 W.

Thank you

The answer is no. Why? Because your set up is identical to my original and I could not run my 750W microwave (actually around 1200W draw). Neither your current batteries or Inverter can produce the required power.

Even with my current upgrade to 200Ah lithium batteries and 3000W Inverter/Charger (which can now run our microwave), I'd be at or near the max discharge rate of 1C for my two lithium batteries to run an 1800W induction cooktop on full power. This is because in addition to what the cooktop draws, the inverter and other inefficiencies will consume some additional power.

Maybe I could run an 1800W cooktop with 300Ah lithium and a 2000W inverter at near max power. But unless you can run the cooktop on a lower setting, I'd say 300Ah lithium and a 3000W Inverter is what you'd need.

I did my upgrade on the cheap with Renogy products and my own labor for approx. $2500. But add in a third battery (I have only two) and the price goes up another $750. Plus there the space required for a third battery that is hard to find a small class b. A top-of-the-line Battleborn/Victron setup will run almost $4500 before labor.

Sorry to discourage you, but money is the limiting factor for most endeavors. And big money is required for one like this.

[MagicBox]

Hey RB,

Thank you so much for your detailed response.
I’ve been reading this blog for awhile but still haven’t grasped basic electrical concepts. I forget about the inverter’s own draw.
It does look like I would need to do a major electrical upgrade for induction. Or just have one for our infrequent full hookup stops.

Back to my search for an available low pressure propane grill.

Or just cook inside……..

[Jon in AZ]

What are you wanting to cook outside? A grill points to a different style of cooking than an induction burner. How about a simple butane burner?

[MsNomer]

You don’t have to run an induction cooktop at full power. I’ve found about 600W to be a sweet spot for anything I’m willing to cook in the van.

I second the butane cooktop for outside. Couldn’t be easier.

[booster]

If your 2012 is like our 2007 Roadtrek, the regulator will be at 10 psi even though the spec says it is 15psi. It doesn't matter much which it is as it is too high for a low pressure regulator and may be too low for a lot of high pressure regulators to handle.


AFAIK, all of the grille burners run on low pressure so you would just need to get there.


Our Magma 9X12 came with a fixed range regulator on it set for high pressure so the flame was a bit small and we were at the end of the temp adjustment range. I got a regulator from the larger Magma grilles from them and it is adjustable for range by turning a setscrew under the knob. Easy to turn it down to range we needed and liked. We knew about the different regulator because we liked the Magma so much we bought a 12X18 for at home and it had the adjustable one on it.



My bet is that a regulator of that type would work for most high pressure grilles unless they have a flash arrestor at the burner inlet. The arrestor is a brillo pad looking sintered piece to prevent flash back. It might also be in the regulator (temp knob) output. Should be easy to see. The only one I have found was on a Coleman fold-n-go stove that didn't have a separate regulator as it used the burner heat knobs for that.


Any good grille supply/seller should be able to show you adjustable versions and Magma probably still has the same setup so you could buy one from them and run most any high pressure grille (is setup for bottle it is high pressure).

[MagicBox]

Thank you for all this input.

I was trying to cook outside because of heat and odor.
. Was also trying to avoid storing any additional fuels in the van.

At this point it does looks like I’ll have to join the small tank grill crowd.

Observed thus far:
Propane: bigger grills and tanks. Refillable tanks.
Butane: smaller grills, non refillable tanks.

[booster]

Originally Posted by MagicBox

Thank you for all this input.

I was trying to cook outside because of heat and odor.
. Was also trying to avoid storing any additional fuels in the van.

At this point it does looks like I’ll have to join the small tank grill crowd.

Observed thus far:
Propane: bigger grills and tanks. Refillable tanks.
Butane: smaller grills, non refillable tanks.

You can just start on bottles, and use them for backup, but you probably can pretty easily run off the tank also based on above.

[booster]

I just sent Magma an email to ask them if the regulators they list as replacement parts are the adjustable ones. My guess is they are as all 3 they show for different outputs look to be identical and probably are except for adjustment.

[mkguitar]

we carry a "casette feu" single burner which takes butane cans


burner about $15, cans of butane about $3


any restaurant supply


( butane at costco sometimes)


that single burner is used out side for stinky stuff, a meal on the picnic table without heating up the van or me quietly percing up a pot while she sleeps


the case for it is about 12 x 14 x 6 inches and fits in our cabinet


similar to this - often found for $15


https://www.amazon.com/ShellKingdom-...762716&sr=8-11



mike

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by MsNomer

You don’t have to run an induction cooktop at full power. I’ve found about 600W to be a sweet spot for anything I’m willing to cook in the van.

I second the butane cooktop for outside. Couldn’t be easier.

This could be an option. Probably at the limit of your current batteries and inverter, but you'd just need a "killowatt" to test how much actual power a 600W inductions setting would draw. Your 750W Tripplite is supposed to be able to handle brief overpower output, but I wouldn't want to go much over for your batteries sake.

[booster]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

This could be an option. Probably at the limit of your current batteries and inverter, but you'd just need a "killowatt" to test how much actual power a 600W inductions setting would draw. Your 750W Tripplite is supposed to be able to handle brief overpower output, but I wouldn't want to go much over for your batteries sake.

Will an induction top even run on a modified sine wave inverter regardless of power. Do they have any electronics in them?

[mkguitar]

Originally Posted by rowiebowie

but you'd just need a "killowatt" to test how much actual power a 600W inductions setting would draw..

an ammeter would tell you.


ohms law says that the 600w at 120 volts is 5 amp draw


but there may be variables in the control used, or the wiring


mike

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by booster

Will an induction top even run on a modified sine wave inverter regardless of power. Do they have any electronics in them?

Naturally the instructions don't mention anything about it so I don't know. Could be the same for microwaves I guess. One of the great and long overdue improvements in van life is switch to pure sinewave inverters. That's what I did so I no longer have to worry.

To sidestep the potential that induction won't like modified sine wave, I guess an option would be to use an old fashion coil hot plate and just keep the draw under 600W. But really, you probably would not want to be restricted to low power to cook on any device.

The point of my first post was to state my opinion that if you want to go electric, you best have the money resources to do it right.

[booster]

IMO, the best solution would be to get a grill to work as it isn't really hard to do. The OP has a preference for outdoor anyway, so just makes the most sense, even if they have to run it on bottles until they get it on the right heat control regulator.

[booster]

I was just on the Magma website and the show the 9X12 RV version as in stock. Marine grills and most others show sold out.

[tgregg]

Originally Posted by MsNomer

You don’t have to run an induction cooktop at full power. I’ve found about 600W to be a sweet spot for anything I’m willing to cook in the van.

I agree. We have an $80 Nuwave PIC Flex induction cooktop that is selectable for 600, 900 or 1200 watts. We use the 600 or 900 watt setting with a 1000 watt psw inverter and 2 100ah batteries. We use the 1200 watt setting when plugged in.

I would guess it would work with a 750 watt inverter on the 600 watt setting. Not sure about a msw inverter.

[JohnnyFry]

My induction will not run on MSW power, too many electronic circuits inside. I use the genny if I do not have shore power.

[WilmaKerr]

I know battery power insufficient to run your induction cook top. Do you have generator? That's what I use to run induction cook top, microwave and AC. Has worked for me for the last 22 years. My old 98C210 didn't experience induction but upgrading to my "NEW" 190 includes induction cooktop and Instapot. Still use generator for all the heavy stuff! Don't have solar, haven't seen the need, the things I have work.